georgecederholm

Many folks, myself included, have found that a flush is not necessary, as the coolant often comes out pretty clean. I had a flush and change done once years ago at WWWilliams (had it in for transmission service), but wouldn’t waste the money again. After having a pinhole leak in one of the radiator hoses that I needed to fix on the road, I decided to replace the rest and that was a good time to change the coolant. I got a large (~20 gallon?) drain pan akin to a kiddie pool, positioned the RV a little low in the rear, and pulled the drain plug. Worked great. Let it sit overnight. Pumped the coolant into 5-gallon pails for measurement. Had about 15 gallons, more than the 55 quarts my manual states. Manual could be low as Aqua-Hot was an option and may not have been counted. It was a relatively good idea to change the radiator hoses, as they were pretty old (15 years). I didn’t change the dash heat hoses or the Aqua-Hot pre-heat lines, but probably should have. I replaced the coolant with Rotella ES red. Should last a long time, and was available on Amazon and at Tractor Supply then. I used my favorite Harbor Freight battery operated transfer pump to move the old coolant to buckets and to put the new in. I used the concentrate in gallons mixed 50/50 with distilled water from Walmart. https://www.harborfreight.com/battery-operated-liquid-transfer-pump-63847.html After refilling and burping, I found I needed to add another couple of gallons, so I ended up with 16-17 gallons. Plan ahead to have a little extra on hand before you start if getting more on the fly would be an issue. One final thought: my radiator had no petcock, just a pipe plug. This required careful positioning of the drain pan, as the stream pushed all the way to the other side of the engine compartment. I replaced the plug with a ball valve and downward elbow. I put the plug in the end of the elbow to keep crud out, and got a barbed nipple with plastic hose to put on for future drain activity. Kinda like a Fumoto valve for the rad.

Does anyone know the part number/specs for the MAC Valve that controls the tag lift (not dump) function on a 2005 Exec (2004 build) or similar? I checked the Parts List and see a bunch of sources but not specific parts (might have missed something). I’ve been chasing down various leaks and found a new one today at the tag lift MAC. I can replace the fitting, but since it seems to be leaking at the threads as opposed to the push-to-connect I’m thinking I’d better have a valve on hand just in case. I haven’t pulled it yet so don’t know if there are any markings that would help. Just thought someone might know off the top. I’ll attach a picture of the leak and of the air diagram. I’ve been using compression fittings as I replace things, as I’ve had bad luck with push-to-connect fittings, even with freshly cut air line (only so many times you can do that). Oh, and a pox on the Monaco installers who sprayed that black undercoating or whatever all over the air lines everywhere.

Ken, I do see the Victron as a plus for many who are doing wholesale upgrades to their systems, especially Lithium batteries. The one thing I’ve yet to see is commentary either way on longevity. I’m not sure how long the Victron units are expected to last or how problem-free they are, but I’d want to hear positive things before jumping in. And, by the time I get around to a Lithium upgrade, who knows which new vendor will be the marketplace darling of the day. That said, all technology marches forward. If you have the original RV-3000 inverter/charger vintage 2003-2005, you probably have the RC7/GS remote. If you needed to replace the inverter/charger, you’d have to find a unit compatible with your remote if you wanted a plug-and-play solution. I know that Xantrex changed things in the late-2000s to a new remote, a separate AGS (automatic generator start), and different cabling (RJ45 instead of RJ-11) on many models. If you find yourself in that situation, it makes sense to look at other brands before deciding since the scope and effort may be similar. Just my two cents based on personal experience…

I've been chasing air leaks for a while and have been monitoring this thread. This is all awesome information. Since I'm dealing with a 2005 Exec (2004 build date), I'm thinking that I need to be planning on issues although I haven't been able to identify leaks with soap testing. I don't have air system diagrams but do have ones that Bill G surfaced years ago for a 2006 Dynasty (and up?) that should be similar. I think these documents are in this forum's "Files" section. If I'm reading these diagrams correctly, I should have two PCCV (Monaco terminology "Check Valve 2-way Wabco #4106") and four PPV (Monaco terminology "Pressure Protection Valve 60# Wabco #4112"). Does this sound correct? I have a dryer assembly on order that supposedly has one PCCV, so I should source another. I'll probably source enough PPVs to replace all and have a couple as spares. Does this make sense? I've been under quite a bit with soap spray and have cleared up most of the bubbles using new brass fittings and replacing push-to-connects with compression fittings*. I was focused on the bubbles and regret not taking pictures of all the tanks (2 primary and 2 "ping"), but will do so soon.

Xracer, Good job on isolating the air leak to the bags themselves. Changing them is quite a project. I just found a whole set of nagging leaks in fittings, including one that dropped both front driver's side bags to empty in about 20-30 minutes. Found it to be the swivel push-to-connect "T" in the left ping tank. Anyway, I think your system probably had something like the Lambert LE-415 maintainer originally. I doubt it would have been in the wet bay, but rather closer to the batteries. If your inverter/charger is in a side bay toward the rear, maybe there, maybe behind a panel. Or it could have been removed by a prior owner if inoperative. The Lambert looks like the image I attached below. That said, most people with this kind of charging issue don't bother with what was but rather start fresh. The Amp-L-Start and Xantrex Echo Charge modules seem most popular. http://www.lslproducts.net/ALS_Overview_Page.html https://www.xantrex.com/power-products/power-accessories/auxiliary-battery-charger.aspx I just added a separate starting battery for my 10k Onan, and used the Xantrex device to keep it up.

I can second what Larry has said. During this timeframe, there seemed to be quite a bit of divergence between Oregon and Indiana in terms of build processes and equipment used. Given that the OP has a Beaver, that (I think) would have been an Oregon build. I think that Oregon used the Lambert charging device on mid-range Oregon coaches in that timeframe, but I’m not sure. The Big Boy design was generally “Dynasty and up”, which would have been the Patriot and up in the Beaver line. To the OP, it seems likely to me that your Coach was equipped to charge the chassis batteries on shore power, and just as likely that the charging components may have failed on a Coach of its age. Why do you ask? Are you not seeing a charge? Do you know where your battery isolator gear might be (big electrical box on the right side of the engine compartment or in a curb-side bay toward the rear axle)? You might do a search on older messages here for “Lambert” and “Big Boy” and see some pictures that you might be able to match up to what you have. From there, more advice might be forthcoming.

We had MCD blinds installed aftermarket in McKinney in early 2007. From 2017-2019, we had to replace all of the motors throughout the RV. There were definitely changes to the motors and programming instructions over the years. Specifically, they added an extra circuit to the windshield motor to have both “ignition on” and “ignition off” programming. Our original motor did not have the secondary circuit and when I contacted MCD support they said I could just program one high/low limit. I’m assuming (!) that when you refer to yhe “driver’s window” that means the one immediately to the left of the driver’s seat, on the side of the RV? Most of the non-windshield motors do not have the dual limit capability, so it’s a little confusing at this point. in terms of the non-windshield motors, I believe that MCD has only published instructions for pairing and programming to their brand of remotes (at least that’s all I’ve ever found). It sounds like yours are controlled from the coach’s multiplex system. Do you actually have an MCD-branded remote, even to use for just programming the limits? Or did Monaco use a “windshield style motor” for the cockpit? I don’t have the Monaco Multiplex system and use the MCD remotes for everything except the hardwired windshield blinds. When I did all my motor replacements, I made up a bench jig to hold the whole blind, connected a small 12v battery, and programmed all the pairing and limits separately. You may have to do the same and find a compatible MCD remote if they can’t explain how to do the programming without a remote, or buy a new windshield style motor from MCD if it’s really hard wired.

Sorry! I thought I noted this in a prior post. “Cold Inflation Pressure”. “Cold” meaning ambient, not driven on, not overly warmed by the sun. Actually, it’s probably stated “Max PSI” on the sidewall, which is extra misleading since that’s the minimum cold inflation pressure for the maximum rated load of the tire for the axle type (single or dual). 🤪 Maybe it’s the tire engineers and regulators who can actually make things more complicated than the RV crowd? 😂

Almost as easy as just running the CIP embossed on the tire sidewalls. Assuming the tires match the OEM spec… 🤔

We had a similar issue with our 2005 Exec/Detroit, which is likely similar to the 2004 Sig. Ours was purportedly a wet spline from the start, though. Had that quarter-sized “marking my spot” leak. I took it to my local WWWilliams Allison shop and they replaced the seals before a trip to SoCal. First rest stop: bigger leak. A little online research located a place called “PTO Sales” in Fontana. Had them check it (they found that WWWilliams had also stuffed shop rags around the PTO to hide the leak), and they couldn’t fix it. Upon close examination, they found that the housing had a hairline crack. Ordered in a new one from Louisiana if I remember correctly. Never had another issue. Bottom line: check to see if you can find a PTO specialist as opposed to a hydraulic shop. I would also try to get a replacement even with a braze repair, because who knows how long that’ll last.

Please don’t do that. All the tires on a given axle should be inflated the same, including the drive axle. Yes, the inside duals might see a small difference from the outers, the same as if the sun is intensely shining on one side of the RV. Tire manufacturers have figured this out long before we came around. Follow manufacturer guidelines: inflate to recommended Cold (actually “not driven yet”) Inflation Pressure (aka “CIP”) at the start of each driving day and leave it alone. When I first got a TPMS (SmarTire, which actually goes inside the tire not on the valve stem), I started to freak out about high temperatures in extremely hot (110°+) weather. I was seeing 150°+ on the inner duals. I talked to the Michelin and Goodyear reps at the next FMCA rally. They were attentive and polite, and the essence of the response was, “Yes, that’s normal. We proof the tires at up to 300° during manufacturing. Leave the tire engineering to us, follow inflation recommendations, and drive on”. What I’ve come to realize over the years is that inflation, not temperature, is the key factor, and that you’re best approach to a TPMS is to look for anomalies, not absolutes. Any given TPMS is only going to approximate in accuracy, especially at the extremes. Valve stem mounted sensors won’t be as accurate as ones mounted on the rims. What you’re really looking for is that one tire that’s suddenly running high or low on pressure, different from all the rest and from what you normally see given conditions. That’s when you know you have an issue, even (hopefully) before an alarm sounds. Bottom line: don’t over think this, follow recommendations, and drive on… Hope this helps,

I picked up one of these 428000-4440 starters for my 2005 Exec with a Detroit Series 60. I had the rig in to Massey's Phoenix for hydraulic pump replacement (the Sauer Danfoss internal Transynd-to-hydraulic leak) and asked them to install it. They swear that they did the mount "motor down" as mentioned above but the starter wouldn't engage. I asked them to take a picture but they had already put the old starter back. So, does anyone have a picture of one of these mounted properly on a Series 60? Does anyone know if the motor needs to be rotated relative to the mounting flange to get the proper installation? If so, what position it needs to be in and how that's accomplished? The housing/flange assembly looks to be a single cast piece which wouldn't allow the offset on the gear to be rotated to align with the flywheel distance. At this point, I'm trying to determine if I got the wrong starter, or if Massey's just didn't understand how to mount it properly. I haven't tried to test it out myself as I'm not sure I can manhandle the original, much larger/heavier, starter off (and back on if needed) without a helper. Thanks in advance for any advice...

Mine might have been different (2004 build). When I replaced the 100-03S with the 600-D circa 2013, my exhaust pipe just unscrewed from the pipe-thread fitting on the underside of the Aqua-Hot. Into a NPT elbow to horizontal, straight back to another elbow to the side ahead of the drive axle. I just assumed that it was all black pipe. While I was finishing off the project, I replaced the muffler hangers with generic ones from AutoZone. I also replaced the fiber heat wrap with a roll I got from Amazon. I secured the heat wrap with stainless steel “zip ties”, also from Amazon.

Ron P, On our 2005 Exec, there are a couple of in-line quarter-turn ball valves right near the water pump. Is it possible that during dewinterization or installation of the refrigerator ice maker line someone turned off one of those valves and forgot to open it? Another thought is did someone turn off the Maniblok valves? One simple way to verify the pump is powered and operational is to slightly loosen the fitting on the pump output side. If water flows, the pump works.

I used Chuck’s design concept on our 2005 Exec with some slight modifications (larger generator meant different filter placement). I thought the document I made had migrated to the Files Section, but maybe not. http://ourrvrepairs.blogspot.com/2015/04/rv-generator-remote-fuel-filter.html

Mike, I decreased hose size several years ago after my second failure (first the spa hose; second in the ABS by the stove — write-up in the Files). I used 1” ID reinforced plastic line with bushings down to barbed fittings. Haven’t really experienced any decreased flow due to buildup or other restrictions. But I really like the idea floated above about washing machine drain hose for the next iteration. I also have some flexible bilge line I used to replace the water gravity fill a couple of years ago, which is much more flexible than the spa hose. Our plumbing design is a little different that many who have commented, as it elbows from the sliding cabinets much further back in the fixed cabinet. Changing to the swivel fitting would require increasing support for that part of the fitting before the flexible line. But, I might see if that could work, “next time”.

I see you’ve got a lot of good opinions already, so let me add a bit about our experience since the early aughts. We have had Verizon as our primary call carrier since before RVing and have consistently found that their coverage is pretty good. Surfing and streaming both use the same data pool. You don’t need super fast download speeds to stream TV and movies if you don’t need 4K resolution. Speeds as low as 10mbps can work. What you need is a data plan that has the volume, as a movie or a few hours of TV could be 5-10 gigs which added to other use could exceed a lot of data plans monthly. This can result in throttled speeds and/or over charges. In our experience, “5G” is still hype. Coverage is spotty and most 5G signals still result in speeds barely better (and sometimes worse) than 4G. And, good 4G is fine for what we need on the road. We have evolved to a multi-carrier strategy using “MiFi” devices. We are on our third upgrade with VZW, and have tried the FMCA Sprint option the past two traveling seasons (2019 and 2021). The VZW service is by far the most consistent in terms of usability but not perfect. FMCA’s Sprint deal did not, I believe based on our experience, take much advantage of the T-Mobile merger until this past fall when signal availability and download speeds jumped to an acceptable level. This past season we added an AT&T prepaid plan, and it filled in the middle ground acceptably. Our travels this year took us from Phoenix to Florida, to Connecticut, to South Dakota, and back to Arizona. We have returned the FMCA Sprint device both times we had it because they charge $13+ “rental” per month of non-use. I have suspended the AT&T prepaid plan for the winter as well. I have to keep the VZW plan active as it is a grandfathered prepaid plan that I’ll lose if it drops out. I’ve been researching (https://www.rvmobileinternet.com) cell boosters and mobile cellular routers and antennas for a while but have not done much because things are still evolving on the carrier and hardware sides until 5G becomes mainstream. We are still a couple of travel seasons away from that in my opinion, although all the major carriers have announced plans to disconnect their 3G networks in the next year to focus on 4G/5G blended services. We do have a Netgear MIMO antenna that suction cups to a window and can connect to each of the MiFi devices, but I’m not able to reliably see a real world improvement. We have a couple of friends who have been experimenting with Starlink satellite service, and it may evolve into something that works for the average RVer in 2024 or later. We may end up full circle to the old MotoSat service we started with in 2003. Or the Starlink tease might keep us from investing $800-$1,200 in a “real” embedded 4G/5G RV system (assuming that is even available given supply constraints and price increases). So, my bottom line advice to folks is to use VZW for phones and a MiFi, then supplement with AT&T and/or FMCA Sprint MiFi devices if the budget allows. Unless there is something specific to the locations you frequent that would be better…

Mike W, Realizing that we have different coaches with similar-but-not-exact wiring harnesses, do you have any pictures of where you spliced the relay wiring in? I have the diagram from your original post, and was wondering how far afield the connection spots are. I have some relays on hand. On our model, the vacuum module is on the outside firewall and the SmartWheel controller is mounted right where the lowest black cube is in your picture. Thanks in advance for any additional info… For the group’s info, I was able to order the SmartWheel controller directly from the manufacturer today. They are now called IMMI Vehicle Improvement (www.imminet.com or www.imminet.com/immi-vip-wheels) and the phone number is the same as in the Monacoers Parts List (847-395-7250). The SM209 part number from our 2005 Exec has been superseded by SM210, purportedly 100% backward compatible. The price is now $267+ and the total with shipping, handling, and other fees is $295+.

Stephen, Thanks; I'll try tomorrow. There are a couple of phone numbers floating around (847-395-7250 from the Parts List, 317-896-9531 from the IMMI web site) so I'm sure one of them will work! George

Just had the same J12 issue crop up. I've started research on a replacement module and see that VIP seems to have different corporate ownership and contact info from the Parts List (Jan 2020). Can anyone share recent experience on getting a replacement module (SM209 Rev E)? Is there anyone out there repairing the boards? Appreciate any pointers. Already ordered the plug harness...

Did they change the A/C receiver dryer as well? Supposed to be standard every time the R134 system is opened up. A/C compressors don’t just burn up. They fail when they run with low (or no) refrigerant, or due to debris in the system. Did they check/change the pressure switch that’s supposed do disengage the compressor clutch if the pressure is too low. Expansion valve OK? Did they let you know what the high and low pressures were after they recharged the system, and the output air temperature differential? Not saying they didn’t do a thorough job, but “we fixed it” might not be enough info… Sounds like you’re getting some pretty good prices. Assuming the Exec has the Allison 4000, I’d have expected almost $600 in Transynd alone! 😂

Ben, I'm about 14500 on the steer, 24000 on the drive, and 7500 on the tag. Still over slightly on the drive. Haven't weighed in a couple of years so due for that, as well as putting the rig on a diet. I'm running 315s on the steer and tag and 12R22.5 on the drive, so I have the weight covered (except for the 23k drive axle). Just did maintenance this summer and differential oil analysis looks good so not burning it up.

I could be wrong about the brand, since it was a while ago, but I think this is roughly equivalent. https://www.amazon.com/Parker-14R118FC-Regulator-Relieving-Pressure/dp/B007FXJICQ/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=air%2Bregulator%2B1%2F4%2Bnpt%2B125%2Bpsi&qid=1635274352&qsid=143-1526941-0790323&sr=8-4&sres=B0081TJISW%2CB007FXJICQ%2CB07STNLFMS%2CB07STM6HGX%2CB01G2F6EMY%2CB01MDM25XT%2CB007FXK6FO%2CB07BRLXHHK%2CB073WWG91G%2CB008PZ6OWK%2CB0057D8LMY%2CB01BPQDG62%2CB016DB1XYG%2CB005JDKY68%2CB0142ALXTU%2CB07XYQJ19P&th=1

If you do choose to increase the tag pressure (weighing with motorcycle on board strongly recommended), it might make sense to check the specs on the pressure valve. Our 2005 Exec, either due to design on the 45 PBQ floor plan and/or the way we load things, requires about 60-65 PSI in the tag to get the front axle weight in line. I found our original tag regulator was only rated for 0-50 PSI, which explained why it constantly leaked air. I replaced it with a Watts 0-125 PSI regulator, which came with a new gauge, and haven’t had an issue since. The floor plan and coach length can make a big difference to how much the tag needs to be loaded. Ours has a lighter generator up front (10k vs 12.5k), the washer/dryer aft of the bed, 8 house batteries instead of the original 4, and the chassis batteries right inside the engine compartment door. Plus, it has the Detroit Diesel option which I believe adds quite a bit of weight to the back over the ISM. That’s why everyone else’s experience might not directly translate, and why getting at least axle weights for individual motorhomes loaded for travel is so important.

Hugh, Thanks for confirming that what I'm looking for may be possible. I will pursue this with my local DD/Allison shop over the winter. Bill B2, Thanks; that's exactly how ours works now. I'm essentially looking to keep that but add the same effect based on MPH over the cruise setting.