David White

I recently put 2 steer Toyo M144 to replace 2 Michelin, which were 3 years old. I have done several things to improve my ride, including the front Monaco Watts and rear cross bars. I thought I had mine driving really good. But the M144s immediately gave me a solid steering track on the road. I realize now that the Michelins had some slow wandering, which might be due to softer sidewalls. i am now on a trip and have driven over 600 miles and I’m sold on the Toyo ride and handling. They are a pleasant improvement for me.

The same thing happened to me and it was an ignition solenoid in the front electrical bay. There are 2 or 3 related to the ignition and they fail.

Steve, thanks for replying. If yours is the 160, there might be a fit problem.

Recently had this removed from my MH to get rebuilt, but due to a delay at the shop, I purchased a new one. Now, I have the rebuilt one on hand. $200 + shipping.

I’m sure you’re probably aware that even the slightest sag in a drain line will cause water buildup and overflow. I’ve opened my ceiling vent access, and secured the line to have at least a level flow. It worked for me. Good luck.

Thanks for clarifying, just to make sure the 55 ARV is the one being purchased.

Dr4Film, I too have used the Remco RV pump for years and been very happy. But getting a little technical, when you read the description in the link you provided, and I saw this when I purchased my last pump, the Remco is called a “5.3 Gpm” pump. But if you read further they say 3.5 Gpm, with reference to ES. I’m not sure if there are 2 models, but even the Amazon link to the 5.3 uses the 3.5 rate. Do you have any info on this?

You likely will need to match the profile with a company, such as Steele Rubber (steelerubber.com). There are a few other that offer assorted replacement rubber seals.

It’s the slide lock and should not be easily moved, since it should be connected to a cable and spring. Apparently something had come loose behind the black trim cover. You’ll need to remove the cover to find the problem. The bottom piece strikes the plate as the slide is closed and moves the lock piece up at top of the slide. You can look on the other end of the slide and the piece should move by hand. It needs to be lubed occasionally to likely avoid what you’ve experienced in the picture.

Azlein, you should check the ride height, but it can’t be adjusted as shown above. The Firestone system requires the adjustment to be made with a special computer program, with laptop connected to the Firestone ecu. The measuring underneath is the same points, and yours should be 9 3/4”.

Power Gear is now part of Lippert, but parts are still available. You might find one cheaper than direct with Lippert however. Rebuild would be the least expensive route.

Art is correct about the limited use of this system. Monaco had hoped to utilize the system more, but the elimination of the Windsor line and then collapse of Monaco ended the development. However, there are several discussions on iRV2 on the system and I think the controller might still be available. I would start by contacting this this Firestone division: https://www.driveriteair.com/catalog/product/Monaco-318/

Does your inside breaker panel have a separate breaker marked refrigerator or ref inverter? If so double check that it is set correctly.

I assume this is the Monaco manual, not Cummins. If my memory is correct, all the Cummins reps I’ve heard during presentations at Monacoers Gatherings, and others, state that only a short time idle is needed before increased idle to get air up. That is usually a question someone asks. In fact, they don’t call for a 5 minute warmup before moving because you’re normally adequately warmed up by the time you leave a site to exit campground and getting on the road.

The one I used was Power Bright, but was very similar to this AIMS unit:

Tim, I think your question should be whether or not the FP can be used with a modified sine inverter, which I think you have. Maybe the info is in the manual or might require a call to FP to ask that question. Several owners on this site have used the FP with happy results, so maybe the users can come in to answer the question. I opted for a Samsung and it could be run on MS inverters, but I add a separate pure sine 1200 to handle the fridge. It has a automatic transfer switch to go between shore power/ generator and batteries if not on a AC source. This was a much less expensive option than changing out the existing inverter.

BilI, I’m obviously not Bob, but I have a ‘05 Windsor and it has the solid fiberglass roof. Since the ‘06 was the last year for Windsors, and appear to be a continuation of the ‘05 design, I think you have fiberglass which rolls over the edge and down to that upper beltline. It has no seam down to centerline, front to back, which is a indicator of the aluminum roof.

We have, what I consider, an expert on beltlines here who often helps and comments on this group. He is ChrisT and usually posts under the “throgmartin” heading. He operates TalinRV in FL and can help you with the beltline and suggestions for repairs. I think he sells the materials for repairs, and if you are near there, you’ll find no better shop to do the repairs. Check their website and call.

Scott, based on all I’ve read and my experience, I would do the 2 you had planned and wait on the sway bars. Likely you will see a good improvement without the sway bars, but can always add later if required.

JD, I don’t have my coach here to check, but my inclination is to say “yes” to the cam question. And, “no” I don’t have the rear Watts, only the rear x-bars. I don’t think the rear Watts would do much for your problem. I would suggest making a call direct to MonacoWatts and talk to Mike Hughes (he’s located in Lancaster CA) to get the correct answer: monacowatts.com

JD, the removal was actually prompted by conversations with a long time contributor/Monacoer, Bob Nodine, who determined the benefit of removal. Bob actually was in on the original development of the front Watts idea. I always felt it made steering harder and did nothing for the driving comfort, plus I kept having issues with my unit. It likely would help in a front tire failure. Bob has recently purchased a Class C, but might still monitor the site and could add some insight.

Just my opinion, but I felt the rear bars actually did the most for mine, especially with movement of the coach tail. Nothing will totally eliminate the wind issue, but that’s the last thing I did (after I removed my tru-center from steering), and the bars helped the most.

Gary, I understand but it seems the safety cables are the weak link, in most. Maybe the RVi3 is better, but a car with brakes applied would increase the stress on the cables. BlueOx is unlikely to take responsibility for anything, including the failure of towbars in most cases. Maybe RVi3 would since it’s built in to the setup. I’m an ideal situation, I would want the safety cables to hold and the brakes on the car to keep it from crashing into my coach, or anything.

Rik, if yours (Ramco) are similar to mine, those heads are actually plastic. I’ve discussed my issues with Dave and you’ll find that he can plate the arms, but not the head. Dave keeps some of the replated parts in stock, so he can help with them. I’m not sure what to do on the chromed head however.