David White

Knight and Ambassador are the same. Windsor was equal to the Imperial in that year.

Yes, I did the front watts last year with good improvement. Early this year, I added the cross braces and that was a big plus. I’m not sure if it’s the combination, but I’m happy! BTW, another must is steering gear adjustment. But, only the TRW is adjustable, so if you have some steering wheel play while sitting still, it is easily adjusted. If you have the Shepherd gear, there is a TRW retrofit.

I’m not sure what you’re needing, but go to the MonacoWatts.com site, get phone #, and call. Your chassis is Air leveling, RR8S. I have the same year and model. I’ve installed the front watts, and the rear cross braces (#CBK50 (50" Rear Cross Bar Kit). I don’t have the front kit#, since I picked it up from Craig French at a Monacoers gathering. One thing that determines which kit, is whether or not you have mounting brackets for jack leveling too. That was an option and some came with the brackets. Mine did not. A call to Mike Hughes at Monacowatts should clear up the front watts #. Your cross brace measurements should be the same as mine.

Robert, I added a separate 1200 pure sine inverter dedicated to the fridge. It has capacity for another circuit too. It has a built in switch to auto change back and forth between shore power and batteries and the cost is less than a new house inverter. About a year ago, it was about $250. A 1000 with transfer would work well, and they are readily available. it appears you present 1500 is small if you add the fridge.

Chargerman, that’s what I did too, but I keep an eye on the ease of movement and re-lube occasionally.

There is something in the File section which might help. It has a drawing of the mechanism. Look under the downloads and there is a section on Slides. Go to drop down, then downloads. Under the Category at the top, click there (change from All) and you’ll see the slide section which you can select. From my experience, I would think a good lubing from the top might free up some pivot joints and solve the problem.

Thanks Bill, I’ll check but I’ve never seen one under my dash. I’m assuming it handles all the alarms and my others are working. The headlight one could be disconnected.

My ‘05 Windsor does not have an alarm or alert to tell me my lights are on when the ignition switch is off, and I’m not sure if it ever had one since I’ve owned it for 12 years without an getting an alarm. Can anyone tell me if one should be on the MH, what the problem might be, and where it is located? If not, what can I do to add one?

I just changed mine, as I do at least annually, and have been using JF Biobor and Diesel Kleen for several years. I don’t know for sure whether the Diesel Kleen helps, but can say the filters no longer have evidence of algae, or gel buildup. What I did see this time was a large amount of debris in the primary filter, which tells me a regular filter change can keep you from being stranded on the road. Fuel is not clean, so beware of where you get diesel. I have been sticking to big truck stops, but now I’m not sure what is best. I still think a station which has a big turnover in their tanks is likely the best.

There are some inexpensive endoscope mechanics video cameras which you could possibly slip into the cut you’ve made. I’ve needed one in many instances, but didn’t have!

To me the steering stabilizer and Roadmaster Wandering discussion is an apple and orange comparisons. I have the TruCenter and it did little for wandering, but I think it would help absorb kickback in a blowout! I think discussing the use on other brands might be misleading, since there are some special problems only on the Roadmaster chassis, and other things are needed. Wandering is best corrected with the Watts link, as Van pointed out, and get the steering box adjusted to remove play, if adjustable on yours (if TRW). I have done the stabilizer and Watts, plus gear adjustment, and can tell you that my handling was improved greatly by the latter, which is marketed by MonacoWatts.

Joe, I agree with the bleach and water mix. That should kill any that you have . Having lived on the MS Gulf Coast through many hurricanes, I’m not sure anything is better. You will likely still have the black stain left , but the source should be dead. That’s the ultimate goal! As long as the ceiling lining foam stays in place and the mold is dead, you should be ok. Good luck.

I’m not sure how accurate this is , but a tire store, which is located in several states (Mavis Tire , Mavistire.com), shows the Toyo M144, 295/80R22.5, at $369.52 online price in my areas. You might check this out. That’s a great price but I’m sure mounting/ balancing is additional.

I’m not sure what the problems are with the Carefree awnings, but Dr4Film mentioned “Zip Dee” and Joe mentioned “StoneVos”. I agree with Joe, if it’s only a fabric issue then StoneVos is the best. But, I would point out that if you go to the Zip Dee link (for total awning replacements), you will see that Talin RV in Brooksville FL is listed as a dealer and they are a sister company to Stone Vos. one of our members, Chris T, is associated with both and has a great reputation. Contacting one or both of those companies might be a great starting point to get solid Information. I note you’re in NY and there are dealer in your state.

Neil, I received the 8” belt sleeve and got it on today. It’s not a perfect fit for my 2005 Windsor, but with some trimming on the buckle holder opening it turned out great. I’ve attached a photo of the eBay supplier card with my invoice. Another photo shows my finished sleeve with belt inside. If might call this guy if you need a different length.

I’ve just gambled ordered this 8” one on eBay search, since nothing else looks close. I’ll let you know if it works:

I too use SamsClub locally since it’s less than 2 miles and easy in out out for me. BUT, the fuel card works best for me on the road since SamsClub is not always that convenient. Today, locally in central Mississippi, my price at SamsClub, after my 5% Samscard discount , is about $2.16. At Loves near me on the interstate, my cost would be $2.06 (1.99 + the card fee). That’s over $ .60 below the Loves posted price. So, the fuel card is normally the best option for me when traveling.

Bob, I tried the fix several years back, but I could never get it to work long term. I remember his recommending getting door edge molding which is commonly used on cars. Cut short pieces and slip over the metal topper guard on each end, which is the area where you are getting the abrasion. The idea is the fabric is rubbing on the metal, which I think is correct. In my case, the guard edge is tight against the topper which gives little room for the trim, so the trim piece would keep coming off after a few in/ cycles. It might work on your guards. Good luck. One other thought, after looking back at the stonevos site. They say they give extra fabric length so the topper can be reversed. If yours came from there, you might do that. But, that doesn’t solve the cause!

David and Peggy White are in site 239.

I don’t think the REV emblem noted is the heavy duty one on the front, I could be wrong, but base my response on one I purchased which was a light duty decal. I think decal on your front is much bulkier.

Wayne Michalski at “Ugly Shield” did my removal and the result was great with no damage. He is located in FL. They do sell the remover and have several YouTube videos on doing the removal. The remover is called “Ugly Juice” if doing yourself.

Bob, I am assuming that you still have the original Leece-Nevelle alternator. In reading some other related posts, it appears the regulator might be built in. That could mean the alternator would need to be rebuilt. I’m not sure of that, so regulator location and replacement needs to be answered. However, maybe someone in the group might have thoughts on other problems which could cause your problems. It appears that all is well once you get on the road, the alternator output gets into the 14 range after a few minutes. So, at some point you are getting the proper charge at that time.

“Thank you both! I will look further into this soon. I'll try to get some pics of my battery bay, but it seems like it has something to do with feeding back from the battery charger with the gennie running. Do Amp L starts go bad? “ Yes, Amp L Starts do go bad.

Ken P, The switches could be bypassed, but not a good idea. There are times you will need to disconnect both (or either) of your systems from the battery supply and if connected with no cutoff, you could be in trouble. I would also agree with the earlier post that a good switch, such as Blue Seas, should be used. Those standard switches deteriorate fast and will leave you stranded, or with other problems.