David White

I guess my assumption that the safety cables are designed to catch the toad in case of break away (before brake activation) might not be the only option on this. I prefer the brake activation in case the cables fail. My assumption would mean the brake cable would be longer. I had assumed also that the extra pressure put on the cables by the braking could actually over stress and cause the safety cables to fail. Then, even though braking, the car is loose and possibly damage or injure others behind me. I had rather take the damage to my vehicles than risk what could happen to others. Apparently there are more schools of thought on this subject.

Bob, I think the above comments on elbow grease and the Dicor products are on track. I remember ChrisT, at one of the Monacoers Gatherings, going over this process and his products of choice was Dicor. I remember he said he did it himself and it worked on the old body. I think he used their clean and prep and the coating, and said it was a great product to do what you want. It is still going to get dirty around trees, but easier to clean. You might give Chris a call at TalinRV. He would give you good advice.

If overflow and not a tank or hose leak, it could be the tank cap has stopped providing to necessary pressure control. If it’s never been replaced, I would do that. I’m fact, I went with a lower # cap to avoid a tank rupture. Never had an overflow with the lower pressure.

The AGM 6v house battery that Bill G recommended was the Duracell AGM Golf Cart Battery- group size GC2. It is sold at SamsClub stores and made by East Penn, which makes many of the better batteries today. SamsClub has a great price.

I don’t think using the battery boost like this (video) is a good idea. It’s serves in an emergency, but if the chassis are low it likely will put a undue heavy load on the house batteries. Good if needed in an emergency! Tril-L-Start, or something similar, to give a continuous change over time will keep the Chassis batteries topped out while on shore. The Trik-L-Start gets it power from the house batteries when they are charged good. I’ve used one for years and no low battery.

There seems to be some confusion here, since answers are not what I think the op is asking. If you’re talking about the rubber seal that goes around the slideouts, there are numerous options and styles which are specific to the slide. Here is one company, but there are others: steelerubber.com

On my Dometics, you can see the clear plastic drain hose from inside the coach. If you see water in the hose, then some water is coming out of the drain pan, but the exit ports (which connect to the clear hose) could be particularly blocked and they might be hard to clean. Debris in the pan could block. Another thing I learned was that a droopy clear hose holds water and water backs up in the pan rather than out. Any off level or coach move will cause the full pan to spill onto the roof. I cut some length from the clear hose and secured level so it drains better into the hose going to the outside.

Should be a nice coach and upgrade from the Dip. One of the main positives is the side radiator which makes rear engine access and maintenance easier. Both are on Roadmaster chassis’s, and the Watts setup might be needed. If it has a TRW steering gear, that’s a big positive since slack can be adjusted out, which assists driving comfort. It likely has a 400 (or 525 upgrade )Cat engine rather than Cummins and I can’t comment on the brand issue, which likely will have different options.

I think it is a good idea to remove the house water filters, or replace immediately after sanitizing. I have read that the heavy chlorine will reduce the filter efficiency, and I think there is a residual odor from the treatment. That way, you have a good water supply.

That’s my point. I was thinking the waste gate opens and closes to allow exhaust to pass into the turbo, prior to getting into exit exhaust. I would not think the exhaust/ muffler would have anything to do with the boost. Maybe I’m wrong.

The above comment brings up a question in my mind. I’m not sure that boost (28pi) has anything to to with increased efficiency from a more open exhaust. I would think the turbo boost would likely be the same, but possibly there is less restriction on exhaust with an Aero type system, and maybe more benefit from whatever boost you have. Im not trying to get into the “which is best” debate, but is there any difference in the boost between close and open exhaust systems?

Mine are within 1/4”, but my front and rear are the same height. I don’t have # in front of me at this time, but I think it is 9 5/16” on the ‘05 Windsor. That differs within models. I see one file on this site says yours is 9”. I think you’ll have to do that and just keep cross setting (left rear to right front, etc) in small increments till you get it close. This means you’ll need to keep playing with front and back. Mine has the Firestone Intelliride leveling/ride system, so I make changes with a computer hooked to the cpu.

I think the big variations you have are not good. As ChuckB said, the adjustments are in 1/8” increments. So apparently that was not done since you’ve ended up with big differences, mainly on the rear.

Are you looking at the ride height measurements or the “dimensions” of the bags/springs? I think the goal is to get the height correct,not dimensions, using the measuring procedure your manufacture recommends. Those numbers (front and back) are manufacturers recommended and usually the distance between the top and lower bag plate.

Jaybe2, I would guess it the entry door air seal switch, if that coach is equipped.

Been using Protect A Tow over 15 years. It make a big difference in toad damage and is easy to handle, since it’s light weight. We simply fold it up and leave on the back of our coach while parked. WARNING- they are not suitable for rear pointing exhausts, since the heat can melt the material. Only exhausts that point to the side work long term.

Ron, I don’t have a specific store, but you might check Southern Tire Mart. They have multiple locations in the southern and coastal states you are traveling. They handle several brands and might be a good option, though I find it hard to use their online tire finder tool.

Tom, mine too was a TruCenter, which is likely the reason I did not notice and had the false feeling that all was ok, but it had a loose bracket. I could adjust, but when it took a big move, and locked in that position, I was could not turn the wheel.

Van is onto a good point with regard to the steering damper. I say this from experience, since I had a clamp to loosen and it definitely throws off the steering pressure and position. Check to see if you have one!! In my case, I failed to stop and check what was happening. One of the u-bolt clamps took a Big slide, and suddenly I was locked in one direction and could not steer. Luckily I was starting to stop and not on the highway or it would have been deadly.

George, that is good with the the front AC condenser location. If I remember correctly (again with no first hand knowledge), it has an auxiliary fan there too. Is that working?

First let me say that I’m no AC expert, but picked up a bit of information on compressor failure from several sources, and the information is the same. I have a 2005 Windsor, side radiator with a Danfoss controller. It seems they were programmed to not turn on at low rpms (such as idle), unless the engine temp calls for fan. My Ac cooling is mounted with the radiator. Some were mounted up front and had a fan to cool. So, many times while stopped and idling, the AC is not getting proper cooling and that is a killer for compressors. Some people simple turn the AC off when idling or add a supplement cooling fans which runs anytime the AC is on.

I would suggest calling Talin RV in Brooksville FL. Chris T (Talin) is a major help for this group and he has gone over the repair technique on this site several times. I think they offer the parts, and even an inexpensive heavy duty rivet gun to do the work. TalinRV 352-942-2653.

If motor is getting power (you usually can hear a click), this might work— in the past I had this happen and paid a tech mobile tech several $$ to get it working. He tapped on the motor with a small hammer. It started working and did for several years, so you might give several sharp taps on the motor (but keep clear of the step if it activates). Likely the motor has a dead spot and will eventually need replacing.

Unless your canisters are marked, you should do that to signify which is the basic and carbon filter position. I think the basic filter cleans first (entry pipe side) and then the water goes from there through the carbon last, so you’ll need to determine entry and exit pipes.

One thing else is to put the slide out and go outside to look underneath at the laminate exterior cover on the bottom. If you see marks on it, that is an indication of roller locations. My ‘05 Windsor has 2 rollers, one about a foot off each end of the slide. You will likely need to lift the slide up by putting wood blocking underneath (to protect) and Jack it up. Maybe a long 2x4 piece. That will relieve pressure on the rollers for adjusting.