Rich Cutler

Had an issue as well with water coming from under what appeared to be the RF18. Was actually dripping from under the kitchen slide area plumbing next to the refrig. The flex drain line to the PVC fittings in the slide had hardened over time to the point of forcing a crack in the fixed PVC drain pipe. Just a thought.

I just wanted to send a thank you to all the members and contributors. I have learned so much from this forum. It has been very helpful and appreciated for the time spent by all. Thank you and God Bless.

Buildem fast, buildem cheap.

Reason you open the toilet is they suck faster than the vent can handle and you don't want a vacuum on the holding tank.

I have had issues with the Sanicon plugging. Put the TP in a bag. That solved the problems. I still rarely use the Sanicon. Remember to fill the Black Tank before dumping if using the septic holding tanks. Will they supply you with plenty of water to do that task?

I'll throw my 2 cents in. I have 6 maintainer chargers. One on my boat, one on each of three jet skis. On on the Motor Scooter and one on the riding mower. I hardly ever replace batteries and I do not unhook the batteries in the winter. I used to replace the jet ski batteries yearly ($40 ea), now I get 4 years out of them. I keep a plug hanging loose on each of the 6 items, so during season after each use, they are plugged back in. I use the Schumacher 1.5amp. The older chargers are heavy, the newer are the same size and light as a feather, must be all electronic (cost around $25ea). Yes, I have had to replace a couple of the chargers over the years for various reasons, mainly they do not like water and we live on the water with a few oops.

Talk to your repair shops. Most new coaches are on less air bags and poorer rides. Also newer coaches are DEF environmentally requirement and EGR coaches. Something to consider.

I check with Hydrometer, and all OK. Voltage when connected to power is always OK unless the very occasional boondock, then it will drop as low as 11.6. I cannot recall the peak voltage the batteries reach, but I do recall it to be correct.

I do not see evidence of boiling in the batteries, just level lowering over time of months of about three. It takes a gallon of distilled water to refill all four batteries. Others do not appear to add water at all.

Steven, How do you adjust the charge rate. It does not take long after returning from a trip to reach float. The inverter appears to operate properly and I have all loads off during storage including the inverter. The generator normally runs during travel for the AC units. Therefore, no battery load and they last a minimum of 6 years. Biggest load is boondocks at convention when the refrigerator, rf18, runs off the inverter.

I rely on my inverter charger system, but I check it monthly for water level. I do add water the 6v wet cells after the season. Seems like it always takes a gallon of distilled water to bring the four batteries back to full level. Same during summer storage as well. I just assumed that was standard as my previous Endeavor was the same. I never let the plates get exposed. I assume that would be the kiss of death for a battery.

As I said a few days earlier, before retiring, I hang out the door and push the key pad lock. This locks the compartments, not the front door as the door is open. Then I manual lock the door and the dead bolt. Never use the fob or carry it with me as my pockets are full already. When we leave the coach, the key pad is the lock for all, and unlock on return. The killer cats defend against intruders if they get past the door lock. Dead bolt lock is rarely used except when we are inside. Nothing to steal we would miss.

With my Windsor, at night I hang out the door, use the key pad to lock all, close the door and set the door and deadbolt. The key pad will not lock the door with it open and me hanging out. I do not have anything in the back to lock or unlock, nor in the front. Yes, we have a key fob, but never use it as it is too heavy and we already have too many fobs and keys in our pockets. We just use the key pad for the Windsor.

Now I am really confused. The manufacturer per Ken says these are not compatible with RV ballast and Tom says they work fine for him. As you may recall in a post and series, my experience was a blown fuse with LED tubes in my 18" kitchen light over the sink. It worked for a while, then blew the fuse, as the puck light on the same circuit also now does not work. I still have not found that fuse in the multiple fuses on the multiplex system. I still want to convert all the tube florescent lights in the coach to LED strip or LED tubes. I thought I would have to do strip, now I am not so sure.

Can you direct us to a post. With instructions or is it best to take to a qualified shop.

H Higgins. You have an older coach and I assume without the multiplex system. I am wondering if that caused issues. I hope I did not screw up the system software or something. I will get back to the coach in storage in a week or so, then start looking at the suggestions received. Thanks to all. Rich

In answer to the question as to power at the switch, no I have none. That is why I'm concerned if there is something else other that a fuse that can happen to the multiplex system.

Thanks for the post Richard. Mine being newer should also have IDs but It is second hand, so the list went????

Gary, It was the tube light, not the LED strip that was using the ballast. Direct replacement to the florescent as Richard has referenced is what I tried as that is what I figured compatible meant and it works with the florescent.. The LED strip kit I installed , yes the ballast was removed and I don't like the bright daylight effect. it is OK in the isolated bath toilet. I will install my own strips that have a lower kelvin temperature, or at least test them out to see the effect. I and the wife also dislike the DAYLIGHT type. I liked the tube LED if it would not have blown something. I guess I will look closer for a blown fuse again. There are so many of those darn things in the cabinet and my eyes are not as good as they were. I did not realize that the ballast would have to be removed as it said compatible with most. Maybe upgrades are not worth the effort all the time. I just did MCD shades, and regardless of what they say, the don't just "easily snap in" even with the upgrade clip. You also need a 4 inch thick head to get into the valence to attach the clip and see what you are doing.

Yes, the tape type that come in the kit, require removal of the ballast, or just bypass. You just connect those LEDs to 12v. The tube type do not say. In retrospect, I assume they were meant to replace the tubes in 120v systems and ballast systems, not our 12v systems and ballast systems. So what could I have screwed up if any thing. The 120v system florescent tubes work in our 12v ballast systems so I assume those LED tubes should work in the 12v ballast systems as well, which they did for a short time. Now I do not have 12v in that circuit.

I want to convert the florescent overhead lighting system in my 2006 Windsor to LED lighting. I purchased a kit for the bathroom overhead toilet room, from the internet, as a test and it went smoothly but it was much too bright white and way too costly. Being a model railroader, I have rolls of the LED lights which are three bulbs and a built-in resister that you can cut to length. (This is basically all the kit was, but it included all the fittings and clamp on terminals.) The roll is adhesive backed so all you do is remove the florescent bulbs, remove the ballast, attach a strip of LEDs, attach the strip to the 12v (First pick the color kelvin LED you want to use). Well before I got started, I went into Walmart and spotted in the lighting section, LED tubes to replace florescent, so I picked up two as they were about $8ea as I recall. That was a lot cheaper than all the work I was about to do to switch over to LED lighting strips, or so I thought. I went to the Windsor, figured I would try with the fixture over the sink with my newly purchased tube LED florescent replacements as this circuit has one switch and only one florescent ceiling light and one 12v puck light. I made the switch of tubes, turned it on and we had light. It looked great. Turned of and on a few times and compared the color with the living area ceiling lights and they were similar. I thought I had a good cheap solution to a LED switch from the florescent ceiling lights. Then that circuit went off and never came back, not for the puck light, not for putting the florescent back, not for a volt meter. I cannot find a multi-plex fuse that appears blown. Would there be one blown or would the circuit be messed up? Suggestions to get 12v back to that circuit. Thanks

Are you staying away from Michelin for a reason? I have used Michelin for every home, but did have a bad batch back in 98 with three blow outs (two rear and one front) before I got Michelin to agree to replace the last three. I currently use Michelin.

I have had the same icing problem with an LG french door. The doors did not always close tight because the adjusting screw changed over time with opening and closing. Readjusted to solve problem. To defrost, I put a blower fan directed at inlet at top of back wall. that eventually defrosted in 4 to 5 hr without taking it all apart. Freezer was working OK just refrig was at 47 to 50. Lot of water collected in bottom of refrig section. Yep, the doors must close tight and fit properly. Happened more than once. That LG is home unit. No issue with my RF 197

We just purchased a set of MCD shades at the Perry convention and I just got around to doing the install. I now have a complete set of day/night shades available to anyone that has damaged theirs. Take the whole set or part, they are packed in the MCD shipping box ready to go. Free!!! (except shipping) Sizes are...... 24x29; 60x30; 51x30 two; 31.5x27; 17x23 two I also replaced the blind in the bath but it was aluminum slats and available anywhere. Also, two of the slats had slight bends from opening the window so I junked it. Email if interested jrcutler1@gmail.com If you intend to upgrade your shades to MCD, definitely buy the "better" mounting clips if you will be doing the mounting yourself. The job is not as easy as it looks, unless you have a small head that can squeeze into a 3" shade box while you place a clip you try to hold in place with tape using your short arms and your shaking benign tremors. Also, the snap into clips, that take two circus strong men to hold the long blind while pushing into the holding clip. You soon find out that it takes a large screw driver as a push rod on the bracket inside the shade box to get it to snap into place with at least 50 pounds of force at each clip. The only easy blind was the bath because I could stand and install it. Rich Cutler 06' Windsor

Just a point. If you use Fleetguard OAT lifetime, for us RVers, if you need to replace more than 20% with another brand lifetime you must change out the Fleetguard OAT to maintain the cavitation protection and other protections. It is cheap insurance. It is in the manuals and I contacted Fleetguard to confirm. I had a leak requiring replacement of no Fleetguard brand at 30% over the period of a trip of 1000 miles. I could not find Fleetguard OAT Complete anywhere.