jacwjames

Mine is mounted in the bottom left corner on the side. It looks like this http://www.nwrvsupply.com/product/16614041.html or here https://store.phoenixcoachglobal.com/product/16614041-repair-absrm1-abs-relay-module-repair-onlysee-description/ In case the button is on the bottom next to the two 15 amp fuses and the LED light is above it on the edge of the board. Here is an addendum from Monaco that I found that explains how to check for the codes on page 3 says there is a button next the steering column, I don't have that but the ABS module in the FRB. Caution, it says to press the 1-2 seconds. DO NOT press the button for longer then 2 seconds, it puts the ABS system into DYNO mode and the light will stay on all the time. There is a procedure to get it out of Dyno mode but I can't remember where I found it when this happened to me. It took 2 people, one inside pressing the brake and one outside pressing the diagnostic button in a specific sequence to get it out of the DYNO mode. abs_atc_system Monaco Addendum.pdf

That's what I'm hoping for. I will monitor for now and see if it leaks. A new OEM pump is ~$500, can buy after market Federal Mogul of for $235

Smart, can't be too careful I recent setup 2 step authentication on the bank, credit card, pension and trading account logins. Harder for me to access but really harder still for hackers.

So I started checking on a replacement fuel transfer pump for my ISC350 and most of what I've found is after market "no" name. My thought is the that the OEM pump is probably made in the same factory as the aftermarket, just branded different. Has anyone changed this OEM pump to an aftermarket and is so where did you buy it from. Or should I spend double the price for an OEM pump?

About 3 weeks ago I did some maintenance on my rig, Air Filter, Dryer Filter, and greased the chassis. I also did a visual inspection of the top and bottom of the engine, transmission, and brakes. I didn't seen anything out of the ordinary. Yesterday when I went to take the rig to fuel up and drive it I couldn't get it to start and as part of my troubleshooting I crawled under the rig and again didn't see any problems. I ultimately found that I had hit my rear start switch, got the rig running and drove it for about an hour. Today I noticed a wet spot under the engine and crawled underneath and found fuel dripping down the starter. Dang, lift pump was leaking fuel and looked like a decent amount based on the side of the wet spot. I went ahead and tightened the three bolts holding the pump onto the base, they seemed to be loose, I tightened them all up. I wiped off all the fuel and cycled the fuel pump probably 20 times as I was also working in another problem. It would run for 1 minute and then stop. At the end I could not see any evidence of fuel leaking. I do have a replacement gasket and will install that if the leak continues and then replace the pump if needed. So my question is for those of you who have had a leaking transfer pump and just tightened the bolts, did it work, did you have another leak.

I've got a 2002 Windsor that does have a small ABS module in the front drivers side run bay. When I drove it yesterday the ABS light never went out. This has happened to me before and I've been able to pull the codes using the ABS module. The procedure is to turn the key on without starting, press the brake pedal one time, and then go outside around to the FRB and press the small black button for less then 2 seconds. At that point it will give you the blink codes flashing on the small LED light. This time it wouldn't do it. The light would never go out. In the past I have had problems with the button sticking but that didn't seem to be the problem but I went ahead and took the board off and took it into the shop to blow it out with air. Reinstalled it and same thing but this time I went ahead and rapidly pressed the button with the key on, at some point the the small LED light went out and it did flash some codes but then the light came back on. So I took the board off and took it to work on it on a workbench and pulled the button face off. There is a small curved spring plate under the button, which when you press it makes contact between two points. It didn't seem to have enough spring in it so I took it out and slightly bent the 4 corners of the plate and reinstalled the button. Took it back out and put the board back on and attached the wiring harnesses and the light was out. Did the procedure to check for codes and there were none, I did check and the ABS diagnostic module is obsolete, NWRVSupply will try and rebuild your old one but no guarantee. So if you are having trouble you can try what I did.

Yup, ran the card twice but worth it. If we are either going or coming that we we usually stop and fill up. At least the East side Sam's has plenty of room to maneuver, the West Knoxville store is usually a bear to get in and out of even with a car. Not sure what's going to happen if they turn the old mall into an Amazon fulfillment center.

I had my alternator rebuilt about 7 years ago with no issue, cost was $185 and they did it overnight. I called the purchasing department where I use to work and asked them where they sent their stuff to be rebuilt and that's who I used. If you do replace with new you might consider having your old one rebuilt and carry as a spare. One thing to watch is that when I changed mine I shut off all the battery disconnects but when I checked the "+" lead for voltage I was still showing some coming in. Finally found that my solar panel was providing the charge so I just pulled the fuses. I marked all the wires and made a schematic on their location. It's tight quarters when trying the install the new one and wire it, I had just enough wire to loosely attach the the wires to the alternator and then swing it back into place and install it. I then tightened all the wires. There was a recent post on an individual who was on his 3rd "new" alternator and there was a problem where it kept blowing the DUVAC fuse. He finally decided to take it to a shop but never did hear what the final cause was assuming he got it fixed.

So when the topic of fuel prices first popped up I took the time to look at Gasbuddy and see what the prices were near me. Since I needed to fill up the motorhome I wanted to know what to expect. The couple fuel stations in the small town I live in were $2.29/gal but if I expanded by view I found that the Sam's Club in East Knoxville TN was $1.79. Wow, what a difference. Over the summer I have been pulling fuel out of my tank to use in the tractor so I knew I'd need quite a bit. Sure enough, I pumped 85 gallons so by driving ~25 miles I saved $40 besides stocking up on some necessities we needed anyway and giving the motorhome a good workout at the same time.

So I decided to take the rig for a run and fill up with fuel. I had moved the rig about 3 weeks ago and everything ran fine. I did change the air filter, dryer filter, and did a grease job. Also drained a little fuel out of the filters to check for water and any signs of algae. But I did not start the rig. Went out today, pulled in the slides, unhooked the sewer, disconnected the power and pulled up the jacks. Went to start the rig and no power to the dash, but the backup camera was on strange!!! So I went to work trying to figure out what might be wrong. First thing I did was make sure the chassis disconnect switch was on, it was. I had one fail about 7 years ago so thought it might the problem again. Since I had been working at the back of the engine I checked the rear start, I had accidently hit the button before so thought that might be the problem. I pressed the rear start function and it the lift pump started to run. Went and checked and I had left the key on. Still wouldn't start from the drivers seat. I knew the ignition switch itself could fail but since the the rear camera would come on and power was going to the jacks I ruled that out. When I would turn the key I could also hear a relay clicking in. I pulled out my multimeter and checked the chassis voltage in the rear electrical bay and also the front drivers side run bay, all were good. I checked all the fuses in the front drivers side run bay, anyone associated with the key & ignition was good. Also swapped out the ignition relay. Tired to start, NO GO. I went to the rear run bay and checked all the transmission and engine fuses, all were good. Tried to start the rig again, NO GO. Since I did change the air filter and dryer filter I checked the top of the engine to make sure I didn't pull any wires loose and around the dryer to make sure anything was amiss. Couldn't find anything wrong there. At this point I point I was stumped. I thought I was familiar enough with my wiring diagram to check all the likely culprits. I even contemplated coming and posting for suggestions but I decided to start from scratch again. First with the multimeter and then to the rear start area. I decided to toggle it back and forth between front and back and when I pressed it to the front function it clicked into position. Went and checked and it started from the drivers seat. So the problem was the rear start toggle, when I first checked it I toggled it to the rear and then I thought to the front but it didn't fully engage. It did the second time. If I hadn't checked this a 2nd time I could be in the middle of trying to find a wiring problem still scratching my head. So lesson learned, step back, take a deep breath, rethink the problem, prioritize the potential causes, and start over.

Pits are great if you have enough room and access. Ivan K is right on being able to have egress in case of emergency, hard to do unless you build a really long pit that daylights beyond the end of the motorhome. Even though I pretty much do all my own maintenance it would be hard to justify a pit. In the past I had to crawl under the coach on asphalt and recently on gravel. Being able to be on concrete will be a step up. If I get too old to do that then I'll probably be too old to use the motorhome.

My wife has her on a shipping container, so that may be an option. I'll probably add a carport on one side of the garage at some point.

Yup, especially when your wife tells you that she needs to store a bunch of her crap (I mean valuable stuff) in it. That's one reason I'm building a shop area with a floor above for storage. Amazing, we moved from a 3000 sq ft house into ~4400 sq ft (with lots of attic storage) and still don't have enough room. I told her to quit buying "stuff".

On thing I did was made a scaled drawing of the building with the motorhome scaled and the work shop area. I also included the property lines and part of a retaining wall that I had already built. I also flagged out various sizes on the area I already excavated to help visualize the size. I did several iterations until I was satisfied with the size and layout and this is why I ended up with a 40' wide X 50' long building. I would have made a larger garage but I was constrained by the property line to the east, large boulders to the SE, and a fairly steep hill to the NW. One thing I am also contemplating for the future is installing a car lift/storage unit. The price of one of these is about the same cost per sqft as the garage. I had to specify a garage door that goes up to the ceiling to have clearance above where I would install the lift. I can also envision using it to get stuff up the storage area above the shop, which would require a walkway/gang plank to access the lift platform.

I had a limited footprint to work with to gain enough space to build. Originally I was going to build a 45' long garage but decided to make it 50', and then went from 36 to 40' wide. This, however, cost me quite a bit of time and money as I had to bring in a large excavator with a rock breaker to get rid of a large outcropping of rock in the SE corner and even still didn't get as much as I wanted. Had to build a retaining wall on 2 sides. The approach to the garage is at a slight angle so I decided to go with a 14' X 14' garage door for the motorhome and originally I spec'd a 8'X 8' garaage door but changed to 9' wide, glad I did. So if you have limitations for access I'd suggest finding a parking lot, laying out the garage and access and practice parking the coach to confirm it's possible. Since the garage is not built yet I took a day and practiced parking the motorhome. My wife said that if she parked the motorhome she would pull it in going forward, which I told here probably wouldn't work due to having to come in at an angle. I was right, pulling it in was OK but backing it out was a bear since there is a fence that I had to deal with. Backing it in was pretty easy since you hug the side of the door and swing the front around once the back wheels are at the door. Placement of the sewer and floor drain gives a good target for the rear wheels and the long floor drain also helps. I'm sure once the garage itself is in place it will be a bit more difficult but not too bad. If you don't want to go through the wet curing process you can specify that your concrete guys seal the floor right after is finished, this helps retain the moisture and slows the cure. I also put down 6 mil plastic for a vapor barrier but this also helps retain moisture. The longer the cure time the stronger the concrete. Ideally it would have been better if I kept wetting the concrete for 30 days but the first 7 days is the most important and you gain about 80% of the strength in the that time.

I used 4000 psi concrete. Yes, the finishers did cut the concrete. I had them do one cut at the 16' mark where the concrete changed thickness and then they did 3 cuts front to back. So far I have no cracks. I waited for over 2 weeks before moving my motorhome onto the slab. With this large of slab I'll be surprised if I don't get a crack or two. Prepping a site is important. The soil base that I have, once I excavated the area to grade, was clay and very competent. Prior to pouring concrete one of my wives friends visited with a 40' Thor outlaw and she used the jacks to level. After she left 3 of the jacks did not sink and one did about 1 inch.

There has been a fairly extensive thread on IRV2 on building a garage. I took some of the ideas from there. When I formed up for the concrete pad the building supplier spec'd a monolithic pour around the perimeter of the building, which was a 1'X1' trench below the concrete with rebar for reinforcement, it called for 2 runs of rebar, I did 3. I also poured the 16' wide section where the RV will park an average of 8" thick and also used rebar on ~8" centers where the tires run and across the front and back where the tires and jacks are located. After the concrete was poured I kept it wet down ~8 times a day for over a week. Wet curing concrete increases it's strength by ~50%. The pad required ~55 yards of concrete as I also had a 12'X33' parking area on one side. Concrete was $145/yd and finishing was $1.25 per sqft.

I am in the process of building a 40X50' garage. I have the concrete pad poured and waiting on the building. 16' of it is for the motor home and 24' for parking and I am building a 24X28' workshop within the building and have storage above it. I put power and water into the garage and will complete the wiring sometime in the future. I put in a sewer hookup with a floor drain close to it in case I have any "spillage" while dumping tanks. I also positioned this close to where the front drivers side wheel will be an if I run the AC the condensate will drain into it. This is plumbed into my home septic. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Oatey-L-Bell-Trap-Drain/50315073 I also put a floor drain centered below the engine area to catch any condensate. I actually used a 5' section of pool drain to provide for a larger area to slope to. https://www.lowes.com/pd/NDS-5-ft-L-x-1-1-4-in-W-x-1-in-dia-Channel-Drain-Kit/3514344 We get heavy winds & rain from the west which is the side of the building that I have a 14' & 9' garage door located on. I was concerned about rain blowing in under the door so I put a 3' floor drain centered in the door opening ~3 into the building. https://www.ebay.com/itm/TUF-TITE-TPAN-36-Trench-Pan-Drain-36-inches-long/141796041527?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 I live in E TN and the building permit requirements aren't that stringent. I had to show approximate location of building on the lot in relation to house and septic. I provided a brochure from the company I am purchasing the building and a sales contract. When the inspector looked at the site prior to concrete pour he looked at the drains and took some pictures of the site and that was it.

My 2002 Windsor has a Douglas Autotech steering column. I attached a parts breakdown, the turn signal kit is item #3, TS012. If you do a search for a Douglas Autotech TS012 you will get a bunch of hits with a wide range of prices. 1 Steering Colunm Assembly.pdf 1 Steering Column.pdf

Overall I can't complain about the work the Cummins shop did. I knew the manager and he worked with me on keeping the costs as low as possible. I had road debris take out my radiator, as soon as I saw what caused the leak I contacted my insurance agent, he instructed me to take pictures as soon as the radiator was pulled. I did that and the insurance company agreed it was road debris that caused the damage but then it took about 3 weeks of back and forth to agree on an amount, they sent an adjuster to inspect. The shop foreman was working the claim agent and adjust and explained all the costs, part of which was a complete radiator flush and new antifreeze since I had to pump water through the system from my fresh water tank in order to move it into a spot that the tow truck could get to it. I ended up sourcing the radiator as the prices Cummins got were in excess of $6K, I bought one from CG&J for $2650 including shipping. The shop manager agreed to let me do this saving me a bunch of money and if they would have sourced they mark everything up 50%. By doing this it offset the cost of my deductible and also allowed me have my CAC refurbished, at a cost of $1600. But after I got the rig and drove it home I did have some issues with some of the work Cummins did I noticed a faint vibration when I drove it home ~45 miles, I checked and found that the drive shaft (taken out for towing) had been installed out of phase so I had to remove and correct. I also noticed that the fan was running wide open, ended up having to buy a new thermovalve from Whitehouse products to get it working correctley The sheet metal surrounding the fan shroud was haphazardly put back on with some screws missing and they did not caulk the seams as it came from the factory to prevent air recirculation. I informed the shop manager of all of the above but no financial help. But considering how they worked with the insurance company over a period of three weeks I can't really complain.

I had my radiator changed at a Cummins shop. As soon as I drove it back I realized the fan was running wide open. I contacted Monaco Tech support and first they told me to try was to reverse the hoses, didn't solve the problems and the said it wouldn't damage the valve if they were. He then had me plug both hoses and then put a union between them. Doing this didn't make a difference as the fan still ran wide open. They advised me to change the valve which solved the problem. When I did take the old valve off and had my rig running I took the old one apart and found a piece of rag in it. I cleaned it and kept it but don't know if it would work if I put it back on.

Here is the parts page from my day doors. It has the OEM part number, it may not be the same number but it will lead you to the manufacturer which should provide more info on the parts. I looked up the parts and it brought up Trimark https://www.trimarkcorp.com/en/zPlatFormList.aspx?intcategoryid=87&topcategoryid=175&scategoryid=176 You'll have to search to find what you need. 1 Baggage Door Electric Lock Parts.pdf

One issue you may have is that the RV2012 uses 12 awg wire on the AC side while the RV3012 uses 10 awg. Not sure if by just leaving the 20 amp breakers will be good enough to protect the system. I'm sure others will chime in.

Onan made a system that plugs into the generator using a "Y" wiring harness and has wireless remote. It was the EC30W, but it is now obsolete. Not sure if they have made a similar new version capable to Temperature sense? I bought mine ~10 years ago ~$600. Here is a link that explains it in detail https://www.generatorjoe.net/html%2Fonan%2FEnergyCom30W.html I mounted the base control to the firewall above the generator and mounted the remote unit on the wall behind the passenger seat, I treid mounting it further back next to the fridge but lost reception quite a bit. You plug the power supply into a non-inverter plug and if you loose power it senses this and when you set the temperature to a lower F level the generator will automatically start. You have to leave the AC on for this to take over. I usually test the system every trip by simply throwing the 50 amp breaker to cut power to the coach and after ~2 minutes the generator will start. Note that they system will not come one once the coach has been moved so you have to reset it when you set back up. 1 Onan Auto Start High Temp.pdf

I tend to agree. I try to keep things simple, it if ain't broke don't fix it type philosophy. I have done some upgrades on my coach but nothing elaborate. If I do upgrade there has to be a good reason. Changed Fluorescent lights to LED, justified in lower power consumption and better lighting, cost was $75. I did finally add a surge guard but this was after I had a lightening strike that hit the house while the RV was plugged in and it took out my EMS board. I also added an automatic generator start that senses house temperature, this was to protect the dogs if the AC power went out while we were gone. The upgrades were justified on a cost benefit analysis (at least in my mind). My approach to vehicle maintenance is about the same. I went an extended period of time on oil change since we didn't use the coach while building the house but I did to an oil analysis to confirm no major problems. I just did a chassis inspection and greasing, crawling under the coach and checking all the key welds and attachments, I do it myself to make sure it gets done. A messy job but worth the effort. The last time I had my rig in the shop is when road debris took out my radiator. At the time I did not have a place at home to do a repair so it went to a Cummins shop. This was a benefit as I determined that the radiator was damaged by road debris and reported to my insurance. The shop worked with the insurance adjuster to come up with an estimate. I knew the shop manager and he agreed to let me source a new radiator, which saved me a ~50% markup for that part. They also let me take my CAC for inspection and repair, they normally don't do this. It still cost me ~$7K but all but $1K covered by insurance. BUT after I got the rig back I had to rephase the driveshaft because it wasn't installed correctly, check all the metal around the radiator because of missing screws and sloppy work, and replace the thermovalve because of contamination into the valve. Not a happy camper and Cummins knew about it. In the end taking it to the Cummins shop was the right decision along with double checking their work.