jacwjames

Van, If Guillermo's 2000 Windsor is similar to my 2002 there are no contactos in the drivers side front run bay. The only one is in the rear passenger side, I checked my wiring schematic for the chassis, there is one relay that ties the ignition wire and the remote sense wire together. If you do a search of the wiring diagram I posted several threads back using the term "Alt Relay" you can find it on the schematic. No idea where it would be located. This is something to check but I doubt it is the problem since it does require a signal from the Ignition and if there is no ignition signal the relay wouldn't work. These coaches are different even in the same year so trying to help using different years information may be futile. One option is to get a Fox & Hound type wire tracer and start at the ignition and see if you can find the short or break in the wire. These sometimes work but if the problem is buried deep in the bowels of the chassis you may have trouble.

Van In the wiring diagram he created he is showing a Intellitec 00-00629-120 isolator relay so he may have one My 2002 Windsor actually has the BIRD 00-00366-00 so I guess it is possible he has some sort of relay. I have seen other threads on the ML-ACR and if I ever had problems with my current system I would definitely look at installing. Some of these upgrades are intimidating, even though I consider myself above average it would cause me some anxiety thinking about it.

What I normally do it zoom into the area I am interested in and then Print this to a PDF and save it file in my library of information I keep on my coach. I can then print it on hard copy. In this case the large file would not let me zoom and print but I could take a snap shot, paste it onto a word document and then save to PDF. Here is a copy. Altenator wiring.pdf When my alternator failed I made sure to label each of the wires, it was in cramped quarters, hard to it. I shut off both the house and the chassis battery disconnects but I also found that solar was back feeding. I was still getting voltage so I pulled the solar fuses.

Not sure how close this is but here is a Chassis wiring diagram fro my coach. It will show the wiring but not the routing. When you first open this file and zoom in it will be blurry. Hit Ctrl 5 and it will clear up. 2002 Windsor Chassis Wiring Diagram.pdf

On my coach there is a fuse labeled Duvac in the passenger side rear electrical bay. This may be the feed you are looking for.

I guess I take the path of least resistance. Back in 2014 my alternator light came on. Didn't even try to overthink the problem. Took the alternator off and had it rebuilt for $185, reinstalled and it's still working today. If you try to replace make sure you get a compatible alternator with the Duvac system, the wiring on other alternators is different. You can use a none Duvac alternator but will have to use a different wiring scheme.

My Windsor has the furnace under the refrigerator, my Norcold died in late 2018 and I replaced with a residential. I installed a Samsung RF18 and also kept the furnace, which is a Suburban which has a zero clearance design, meaning it could be mounted on wood. My furnace was actually mounted on a small wood platform to elevate it about ~3/4" underneath the platform, from what I could determine was to be able to route the LP line underneath to service both the furnace and the refrigerator. The platform itself raised the furnace 1 5/8" off the floor. With my lower ceiling I had to get all the height I could to put the Samsung in. Here is a link to a post I did on IRV2. https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/samsung-install-finally-done-461001.html I had great advice from Bob Nodine and Van Williams.

Agree on the woodworking, I think at least the higher end coaches all had comparable quality. The higher end Beavers were unique in the multiple species of wood on the raise panel doors. I do some wood working and the fit and finish on my Windsor is very good. I've got Walnut, really looks good.

The house wiring diagrams for my 2002 Monaco Windsor also show that they apply to the Holiday Rambler Imperial series. Just Sayin

I have the 8.3L 350 ISC. The parts page is from the Monaco website that could be accessed by RV maintenance people. Back in 2010, while they were in bankruptcy, they left a back door open. When I got on line I downloaded ~100 of pages similar to this. I have no reason to doubt it is not correct, I've used this to research and buy parts without a problem. It is somewhat generic for the model year as some pages will have part number changes based on build date and coach number.

I have the parts breakdown for my exhaust system. It shows the OEM part number as 2633ON but it does not give the vender. 1 Exhaust System.pdf

Not sure how your coach is wired. In mine the power comes into the service panel, there is a double pole breaker that provides power to each side of the panel. The breakers are evenly split on either side which provide power to each of the circuits. Each AC unit is on either side to distribute the power evenly. Water heater also has it's own breaker. and there is a Inverter 1 & 2 feeds on either side. From what you describe it sounds like 1/2 of your panel may not be powered. Try flipping the main breaker on/off. Check voltages on either side of the panel to make sure you have power on either side.

When I bought my coach back in 2008 the first thing I did was take to the Knoxville Cummins shop for a service and complete inspection, I asked him to check for codes etc. I knew the manager and he took care of me, he checked for codes and also provided me with ECM file both printed and downloaded it to a CD. I carry it with me, cheap insurance. The coach was a repo I stumbled on down in Florida. It came with the packet of manuals but no maintenance records. When I inspected it I couldn't find anything wrong but wanted a complete service and inspection to have a starting point. When Cummins was done the shop manager went over the information and told me the rig was "Cherry" and I got a heck of a deal. So if you have to take your rig in for any type of service at a Cummins shop it's worth getting the to download the info, may cost a little money but it's well worth it.

The alignment specs are also listed in my 2002 Windsor Manual. I am not an expert on this but when I bought my coach the front tires had a bad cupping wear pattern. These were Firestone tires which were known to have this problem. Driving it home from Florida there was excessive vibration. One of the first things I did after getting a complete inspection and service from Cummins was to get new tires put on the front and then went immediately to an alignement shop that was recommended by Buddy Gregg of Knoxville. The shop said that I did have a problem, had to bend the axle to fix. I've put +50K miles on the rig since then and the front tires show no signs of wear, although they are now aged out and will need replacing. My coach drives straight and true, no wondering. I guess I got lucky and don't see a need for any modifications.

Back in ~2015 I had the same symptoms with the front AC unit occasionally kicking the breaker. I also replaced the start capacitor with no difference. I then checked the blower motor itself, I could hardly turn it by hand, the bearings were on the verge of failure. I also noticed that the squirrel cage fan blade was slightly hitting the sheet metal. I bought a replacement blower motor for ~$120. The motor came with new rubber mounting bushings. When I removed the old motor I found the rubber bushings were pretty much gone. The new motor with the new rubber bushings solved the problem. The AC was much quieter and pulled less amps.

Can you provide the name/location of the "RV Store" so I can avoid it, seems like they need better technicians. (unless the store is owned by an accountant the wants more $$ instead of satisfied customers) This happen to me on the chassis side, lost all power to the dash. I started at the batteries and started checking voltage. Batteries were good but I did not get any voltage through the rotary disconnect switch, bypassed it which temporarily gave me power to operate. This took me 30 minutes! I then ordered 2 of these switches since one is used on the 12 volt side to keep one as a spare. Cost me ~$100.

For me to unlock the bay doors I have to input the key code, which unlocks the entry door, and then hit the 7/8 button. Hitting 555 locks everything.

Yes I agree, let's get back to the original question. Why can't the alternator charge lithium batteries. I've read a lot of posts on IRV2 regarding lithium and do not remember anyone saying that they should not be charged with the alternator. Seems counter intuitive.

When I was investigating putting a Samsung someone on the forum recommended this is the 1000 watt pure sine wave inverter. Benefit is that it does have a built in transfer switch and also has the capability to charge batteries. Aims 1000 Watt Pure Sine Inverter Charger Hardwire Only. If wired into the engine heat circuit it could be turned off an on via the dash switch. These cost ~$350.

Check in your area for a Hydraluic rebuild shop. They should be able to cross reference the pump and supply a replacement, it may not be a Sundstrand brand pump but should get you going. In a lot of cases the technicians are more then willing to help even if it is for an RV. I live within a mile of a shop that I used all the time when working in the mining industry. When I had a problem with my cooling system thermovalve I went and talked to him and he provided me with some info to help diagnose the problem. I also go there when I need a hose/fitting for my tractor/backhoe.

If your hydraulic pump and motors are performing as designed I'd be hesitant to rebuild. I worked in mining for +30 years and from experience rebuilding is not always the optimal solution. It might be more prudent to buy a new pump/motor and keep as a spare since your chances of having a problem in the near future will increase due to the dismantling and reassembly of the system. I would advise that you pay attention to preventing any contamination into your system. This would be the risk of doing a major service that you've described. I've seen these pump/motor system work in a closed loop system 24/7/ 365 days for years without a problem. Filtering is the key.

I broke my Velvac mirror off going through a very narrow toll booth in Florida. Bungeed it up out of the way and continued on toward Naples. When I got there I was able to download a parts diagram and then called Velvac direct. The sold me the parts I needed and shipped them 2 day to my location. Cost was reasonable and customer service was great.

Richard, thanks>> good information to know I did a search and found the Prestolite data page on the alternator and then did a search using A0014884JB on Google shopping and had numerous hits, one of the best prices I found was here https://www.sears.com/rareelectrical-new-200a-alternator-international-with-duvac-zln4884jb/p-SPM8253389227?sid=IDx20141117x00001xlpla The price range was from $1150 to $300 so it pays to shop.

The original alternator on my 2002 Windsor is A0012824LC, was yours previously changed? They are available. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=A0012824LC&ref=nb_sb_noss My alternator quit working ~2014, I took it off and had it rebuild for ~$185.

If you just bypass the black box to see if the fridge works I would think you would be OK but I would not let it connected that way for long. Have fire extinguishers in hand! I was able to reset my black box~3-4 times but finally realized I had a bigger problem and just threw in the towel. I did contemplate having the Norcold fixed with the Amish unit but decided to go with a residential. In my case not an easy decision due to the furnace under the fridge. I was able to lower the furnace to the floor and gain enough room to install the Samsung. Not an easy task but worth it in the long run Good luck