jacwjames

What vertical piece of trim is your door hitting. I had to remove 4 of my doors to repair 3, including the very rear one. There was one rivet at the very end that I had to drill out but once that was done I just slide the door out. I did have to replace the coach & door portion of the hinge on 3 doors where my wife had hit a post. The hinge was flattened where it would not work. Luckily the doors were salvageable. Unless the door is warped, and/or the hinges are loose hard to tell what might be causing your problem. Can you post some pictures.

I installed my base plate myself and followed the instructions to the letter including the use of the red loctite. The base plate also included 2 very heavy cables with shackles with instructions to wrap around the frame and the base plate. I looked an newer base plates and they do no require/include the cables but to me it's cheap insurance. I mounted my break away tank up just in front of the radiator attached to the frame. I inspect my base plate every time I'm under the Jeep, did it just last month. All bolts were tight and the rest of the base plate looked as new.

Richard, No problem, Were you able to download the manual from the Douglas Autotech site, it shows how to replace the clock spring. FWIW, the parts page I provided is one of ~100 pages for my coach I was able to download from the Monaco site back in 2010 when there was an open portal into their site. I downloaded the pages that I thought would provide the most info, there were more but eventually they reestablished security into the site. Most of the ones I downloaded have provided good reference for parts. Most of the part numbers are still valid or at least provide enough info to source an alternative part.

Here is the parts page for my 2002 Windsor steering column, it shows the Clock Spring Kit as the 1900043 that I referenced in my previous post. The link that I provided to RVchassisparts I believe it the correct clock spring. Here is another source that does say it is compatible with a 2002 Monaco Windsor https://shop.findmyrvparts.com/clock-spring-kit-motorhome-monaco-16616943-1900043-p/190063.htm Also, before I replaced the clock spring I would try disconnecting and connecting the wiring harnesses attached to the VIP module, I know I've read that there have been instances where this solved a problem. 1 Steering Colunm Assembly.pdf

There is still an active website for River Park and they even list the component. Telephone numbers at the top of the page. https://riverparkinc.com/product/riverpark-6chxov-01/ Jim J

Richard, I had a problem with my VIP smart wheel, it happen after I was working under the dash and ultimately found one the wires on a harness had come loose. There must have been a problem before that because someone tried to fix the pin connector. I ultimately soldered it, tight quarters so I had to use a battery operated soldering tool, haven't had another problem. Not sure if this will help but the steering column is manufactured by Douglas Autotech, here is a link to access the service parts page http://www.douglasautotech.com/departments/service-parts/ The file you want is 1900043, type this into the search box and click "Get File" and it will download it in PDF form. It explains how to replace the clock spring. The clock spring can be purchased from RV Chassis Part https://www.rvchassisparts.com:8443/aparvchassis/runApp?id=5 I believe the connector for the Clock Spring is actually mounted part way down the steering column and can be accessed by removing the plastic shroud that covers the bottom portion of the column. The VIP controller on my coach can be access by removing the small dash panel where the radio is located. You can remove it and be able to reach in and disconnect and reconnect the different wiring harnesses that connect to the controller. Haven't looked at the wiring schematic for the cruise control but I did help MSHappyCamper try to fix his headlight problem. He ultimately had to replace the controller, which he bought from VIP. I have a copy of the chassis wiring harness that shows the wiring, let me know if you need it, I believe it is in the files. Jim J

Can you see any identification on the motor, possibly the PN. The motor on my front slide quit working, there was a Power Gear PN on it. I ended up buying a new one from Veurinks, 2012 cost was ~$850. I kept the old motor and when I had time I took it apart and cleaned and reseated the brushes, put it back together and it worked. Veurinks may be able to look up your part number, I think they have access to Monaco parts pages/info.

My 2002 Windsor has the Verde color scheme (3 shades of green and 1 black). The paint code for Black on mine is 4 IM200 - 'BLACK' BC200 742.4 BC101 764.4 UR50 863.7

Try turning off the circuit breakers on the secondary panel and the try resetting the circuit breaker on the inverter. Then flip the 2 main inverter circuit breakers one at a time. If the circuit breaker stays in then try flipping on 1 circuit breaker at a time to try and identify which circuit might bet bad.

On my 2002 coach there is a separate breaker in the main panel that turns it off and on. The block heater is also turned on/off by a 12 volt switch on the front dash that closes a relay to provide the 120 volt to the heater. He should be able to check this circuit by turning on the block heat and plugging something into the outlet int eh engine compartment.

Sounds like a new rod will be needed and today's machine shop prices probably cheaper and faster to order new. A new rod will have to be chromed, if it's an odd dimension might be harder to find and cost $$$$. I had an end gland break on my Kubota tractor and the local machine shop near me estimated a price higher then I could buy a new one from. You may check salvage shops for a used one.

Are you plugged into shore power? Are you using the inverter. On my coach there is actually 2 circuit breakers in the main panel for the 2 legs on the inverter, these provide power to the inverter. The inverter itself as senses if there is incoming power and passes it to the separate panel for the inverted circuits that provide power to the circuits such as mircrowave, refrigerator etc. The inverter panel has the GFIC breakers for the outlets. If you have a multi meter make sure the circuit breakers in both panels are getting power and passing power.

Scotty Did you confirm where the jack is leaking? A while back on IRV2 someone posted about a jack leaking and I suggested they check the fittings. They wrote back and said that was it, simply tightened the fitting. The hydraulic jack is fairly simple as it only has pressure on the barrel side of the piston and relies on the springs to pull it back in. It also in a light duty application, the number of strokes per year (let alone per minute in normal construction equipment applications) is low. Hardly ever hear of a jack actually failing.

I used a large steamer to get the plastic film off. I tried a bunch of different solvents for the adhesive, even went to a local body shop and got some remover, but what worked for me was using plain old gasoline. (I do not recommend this for anyone else). My wife had a bunch of puppy pee pads that are very absorbent with plastic on one side, I would saturate the pee pad with gasoline and then lay the pee pad across an area and wait a couple minutes and then use a heavy plastic scraper to remove the congealed adhesive. It took me about as long to get the adhesive off as the film, 40 hours total.

Will do Joe.

Richard Have you had any success getting the motor & pump apart. I looked through all my information and could not find anything that gives a clue as to how it comes apart. I do have a manual on the slide system but the pump and motor are sold as an assembly. The part number is 540109, I googled it and it did come up on both Walmart and Amazon but listed as "Out of Stock" I had an issue with my electric front slide motor, which is power gear, it would not work. I ended up replacing but kept the motor. One day when I nothing better to do I tore the motor apart, could not find anything but I did clean it up and reset the brushes. Put it back together and it worked so I have a spare. Jim

Just before I had to have my radiator changed I was contemplating changing my coolant, at that time my rig was ~13 years old and I did not know if the coolant had ever been changed. I bought the rig in 2008 and had kept up with the testing and filter changes with SCA additives. To be honest the test strips seemed to be very subjective on the results. I didn't have a good place to do this at home so I called the Cummins shop and talked to the manager. He told me it would be +$600 to do a change to an OAT type coolant since they would do a complete flush. He advised me to take a sample and have it analyzed so I did. Took a sample and sent to JG Lubrication. Tests came back with flying colors, almost as if it was new antifreeze. But then my radiator got trashed and had to have a complete change anyway. To be able to move the motorhome to get it towed I rigged up a hose from the outside shower all the way to the radiator surge tank. Started the coach, started the water pump and drove out of the parking area I was in so the tow truck could hook me up. Pumped ~50 gallons of water through the engine. Hence the complete flush, cooling system clean, and new antifreeze (had a new water pump installed at the same time). One benefit of the ES Compleat Blue is that it is a 1,000,000 mile coolant, yea you have to test but if the original coolant lasted ~13 years this should last the rest of the life of the motorhome. I trusted the recommendation of the service manager. Time will tell though. So before you go to change your coolant you might just have it analyzed and save yourself time and $$.

I had to have my radiator replaced in 2015 after road debris punched multiple holes in it. I had Crosspoint Cummins of Knoxville do the work. They recommended using ES Compleat Blue so that's what I went with. https://www.cumminsfiltration.com/sites/default/files/LT15070.pdf

When i replaced mine there weren't many options. I checked with Veurinks & Guaranty RV. Guaranty had the better price at the time. Veurinks now offers a metal tank for not much more then the nylon. You may need a new low coolant level sensor also as the one I had was inserted from the top using a grommet type seal. The new one screws in the side.

Thanks Richard, I converted, +400 characters to 27 I'll try to do this in the future as I know a lot of people use phones to check posting where I pretty much use my laptop

There was a post on iRV2 about the Spark, there is an adapter you can buy that defeats the time out. Something to do with defeating it using simulation software. Here is a link to one listed on Ebay https://tinyurl.com/rmz52co

I had done a bunch of research prior to putting in my Samsung. I did remove all the side insulation, left about 1/2" gap on both sides, left a gap at the top of the fridge (as much as I could allow considering the tight fit), closed off both the rear vent and ceiling vent, and left the vent in front of the furnace open with some wire mesh in front of it. My efforts were to provide good as ventilation as possible. The rear panel I used some 1' thick styrofoam insulation and cut it to fit tightly between the louvers, using foil tape to hold it in place and also used a seperate piece that snugly fit into the opening. For the roof vent I used standard insulation. If you look at the residential refrigerators they rely on ventilation with a fan forcing the air up from the bottom of the fridge and out the rear through a fairly small slotted opening. The air then is then allowed to escape around the sides and top. Leaving the bottom open can only help bring in cooler air for the heat transfer. Haven't really put my install to the test on a long trip but I believe it will work fine.

My only complaint with the Mobley is that it will randomly lock up and the only way to get it back working is to reset and/or unplug. Not that big of deal considering the overall benefit of having it. I guess if I installed a timer to shut it down and let it restart that might solve that problem.

This is the information regarding the Mobley. Firmware Version VM6200V1.0.1B03

The conversation on fog lights peaked my interest yesterday so I looked at both the chassis wiring diagram and the manual and no mention of fogs lights But what Joe described above is the way mine works, I didn't try just the high beams and applying the driving lights to see if the intensity reduces but either way mine are working. I hardly ever drive in the dark but there was one time coming back from NM we hit some rain and fog, miserable driving but didn't try the driving lights to see if it would have helped. It might be nice to be able to activate the fog lights by themselves so I may investigate adding the jumper as described in one of the posts I read. Glad you got all your issues worked out Joe, like they say "you learn something new every day".