jacwjames

Make sure to ask for both house and chassis wiring diagrams, and anything else associated.

You still may be able to get wiring diagrams from Monaco, worth a try https://www.monacocoach.com/technical-assistance

The latching relay could be almost anywhere near one of the existing switches. If you have a wiring diagram it may give you some leads as to it's location. You may have to buy a wire tracer to find it. I have read other posts where the latching relay was mounted behind the panel that has monitoring system for the coach.

Richard, I've had the same problem since I've had my coach going on +12 years now. I did replace the lock valve itself but that didn't really help as I've had intermittent problems since. I have drained and cleaned and added new fluid but this resulted in a short term improvement. It seems to be worse right after I've driven the coach, possible heat and tolerance issues, not sure. One thing that I've been doing is when I close the slide I hold the button down for a short period of time, which I think forces fluid through along with possible contamination. The frequency of problem has reduced but not disappeared. I looked at the hydraulic hose routing and right off hand I don't see whey a standard hydraulic lock valve wouldn't work. You might try going to a hydraulic shop and see if they have something that would work. These are used in industry for safety reasons to prevent movement when a hose breaks but don't know if it would be compatible with the generator slide system.

My water pump has a fuse in the 12 volt panel in the bedroom, the latching controller that Richard posted, an in-line fuse near the pump and a relay that actually provides power to the pump. Anyone of those could be wrong not to mention the pump itself.

So before ordering the motor I tried to confirm the RPM. The drivers side shade dropped about 18" in 5 seconds, the diameter of the shade was about 1" so that was pretty close to 50 rpm so that is the motor that I ordered. I received the motor for my Sun Visor this afternoon and was able to get it fixed, although a bit tight working behind the TV cabinet. First thing I had to do was fix the plastic mounting bracket, the old motor got so hot that it melted the mounting screws locations and bulged the holes slightly. I took a small lighter and heated and got mostly flat using a spoon and then heated the spoon to improve it. Then soldered some wires onto the motor with enough length to lay the visor down while I checked rotation. Then I used male/female spad connectors alternating so I could make sure I kept the wires in the correct polarity. I cut the wire that I had soldered on just long enough to be able to attach the wires, I used shrink wrap to cover the connectors and then a larger piece of shrink wrap to cover the wires. When I was testing the up/down function the shade itself was in a bind, there was some sort of lock on the end opposite of the motor causing it bind, I couldn't figure out how to make it work so I took it off. I believe it was to prevent winding the shade up the wrong way when down not sure it makes a difference, I guess time will tell. Below is a picture comparing the 2 motor with gear boxes. The new electric motor is shorter, not sure if is the same torque or not but the shade seemed to work fine up/down and the speed was good. The second picture shows the part number on the box. The motor cost ~$15, so a lot cheaper then a new shade. I bought a spare motor so now I know the other one won't break 😄!!!!

I have not had to change mine but have read a number of posts that indicate that it is not that bad of job. Hopefully someone with jump in and confirm. Veurinks had the best price on a clockspring last time I checked.

My steering column is a Douglas Autotech, I was able to down load a service bulletin from their website showing how to change the clock spring D10106 Clock spring bulletins.pdf

I have the Colorado Smart Visor on my passenger side quite working. I removed and checked voltage on wires both up/down, it was good! The drivers side works fine. I took the motor off and you can tell it got hot, wires were melted off and the motor end fused to the plastic support. The gear drive looks good, took it apart, no strip gears and moves freely. So the motor itself is bad. Has anyone found a replacement. There are not identifying marks on it. Does anyone know what RPM motor it is. I found this on Amazon. Looks like it might work and for the price I may give it a try. https://www.amazon.com/Greartisan-El...70&s=hi&sr=1-1

Last time I took my rig for a drive the passenger side sun visor did not work. The drivers side works so the fuse was good. Today I removed the Sun Visor, which I believe is a Carefree Smart Visor 2001/2 vintage. I tested the voltage up/down on the wires both good. The terminals for the motor had gotten hot and melted, I bench tested the motor and doesn't work. Are replacement motors available?

Here is a document I found that I believe is good for my ABS/ATC system. It explains the system and also has the fault (blink) codes. ABS ATC file.pdf

I've never disconnected, the wiring harnesses is what it communicates through. If your ABS light is not on there is no need to run diagnostics unless you just want to test it. If you do it should come back with a 1-1 blink code signifying no fault codes. Last time I had a real fault code it was for the front drivers side wheel, it said the ABS sensor was not in the correct position. I removed, cleaned and put back it. Drove it and the light went out. Prior to that when the ABS light was on I determined that the button on the ABS module was stuck. When I was doing research one thing that I read was that the module requires a good ground so I ran a separate ground wire to the chassis.

The module is obsolete, can try and find a used one and/or get yours rebuilt. I simply took mine apart and slightly bent the curved plate, it has 4 corners that curve down.

Mine is mounted in the bottom left corner on the side. It looks like this http://www.nwrvsupply.com/product/16614041.html or here https://store.phoenixcoachglobal.com/product/16614041-repair-absrm1-abs-relay-module-repair-onlysee-description/ In case the button is on the bottom next to the two 15 amp fuses and the LED light is above it on the edge of the board. Here is an addendum from Monaco that I found that explains how to check for the codes on page 3 says there is a button next the steering column, I don't have that but the ABS module in the FRB. Caution, it says to press the 1-2 seconds. DO NOT press the button for longer then 2 seconds, it puts the ABS system into DYNO mode and the light will stay on all the time. There is a procedure to get it out of Dyno mode but I can't remember where I found it when this happened to me. It took 2 people, one inside pressing the brake and one outside pressing the diagnostic button in a specific sequence to get it out of the DYNO mode. abs_atc_system Monaco Addendum.pdf

That's what I'm hoping for. I will monitor for now and see if it leaks. A new OEM pump is ~$500, can buy after market Federal Mogul of for $235

Smart, can't be too careful I recent setup 2 step authentication on the bank, credit card, pension and trading account logins. Harder for me to access but really harder still for hackers.

So I started checking on a replacement fuel transfer pump for my ISC350 and most of what I've found is after market "no" name. My thought is the that the OEM pump is probably made in the same factory as the aftermarket, just branded different. Has anyone changed this OEM pump to an aftermarket and is so where did you buy it from. Or should I spend double the price for an OEM pump?

About 3 weeks ago I did some maintenance on my rig, Air Filter, Dryer Filter, and greased the chassis. I also did a visual inspection of the top and bottom of the engine, transmission, and brakes. I didn't seen anything out of the ordinary. Yesterday when I went to take the rig to fuel up and drive it I couldn't get it to start and as part of my troubleshooting I crawled under the rig and again didn't see any problems. I ultimately found that I had hit my rear start switch, got the rig running and drove it for about an hour. Today I noticed a wet spot under the engine and crawled underneath and found fuel dripping down the starter. Dang, lift pump was leaking fuel and looked like a decent amount based on the side of the wet spot. I went ahead and tightened the three bolts holding the pump onto the base, they seemed to be loose, I tightened them all up. I wiped off all the fuel and cycled the fuel pump probably 20 times as I was also working in another problem. It would run for 1 minute and then stop. At the end I could not see any evidence of fuel leaking. I do have a replacement gasket and will install that if the leak continues and then replace the pump if needed. So my question is for those of you who have had a leaking transfer pump and just tightened the bolts, did it work, did you have another leak.

I've got a 2002 Windsor that does have a small ABS module in the front drivers side run bay. When I drove it yesterday the ABS light never went out. This has happened to me before and I've been able to pull the codes using the ABS module. The procedure is to turn the key on without starting, press the brake pedal one time, and then go outside around to the FRB and press the small black button for less then 2 seconds. At that point it will give you the blink codes flashing on the small LED light. This time it wouldn't do it. The light would never go out. In the past I have had problems with the button sticking but that didn't seem to be the problem but I went ahead and took the board off and took it into the shop to blow it out with air. Reinstalled it and same thing but this time I went ahead and rapidly pressed the button with the key on, at some point the the small LED light went out and it did flash some codes but then the light came back on. So I took the board off and took it to work on it on a workbench and pulled the button face off. There is a small curved spring plate under the button, which when you press it makes contact between two points. It didn't seem to have enough spring in it so I took it out and slightly bent the 4 corners of the plate and reinstalled the button. Took it back out and put the board back on and attached the wiring harnesses and the light was out. Did the procedure to check for codes and there were none, I did check and the ABS diagnostic module is obsolete, NWRVSupply will try and rebuild your old one but no guarantee. So if you are having trouble you can try what I did.

Yup, ran the card twice but worth it. If we are either going or coming that we we usually stop and fill up. At least the East side Sam's has plenty of room to maneuver, the West Knoxville store is usually a bear to get in and out of even with a car. Not sure what's going to happen if they turn the old mall into an Amazon fulfillment center.

I had my alternator rebuilt about 7 years ago with no issue, cost was $185 and they did it overnight. I called the purchasing department where I use to work and asked them where they sent their stuff to be rebuilt and that's who I used. If you do replace with new you might consider having your old one rebuilt and carry as a spare. One thing to watch is that when I changed mine I shut off all the battery disconnects but when I checked the "+" lead for voltage I was still showing some coming in. Finally found that my solar panel was providing the charge so I just pulled the fuses. I marked all the wires and made a schematic on their location. It's tight quarters when trying the install the new one and wire it, I had just enough wire to loosely attach the the wires to the alternator and then swing it back into place and install it. I then tightened all the wires. There was a recent post on an individual who was on his 3rd "new" alternator and there was a problem where it kept blowing the DUVAC fuse. He finally decided to take it to a shop but never did hear what the final cause was assuming he got it fixed.

So when the topic of fuel prices first popped up I took the time to look at Gasbuddy and see what the prices were near me. Since I needed to fill up the motorhome I wanted to know what to expect. The couple fuel stations in the small town I live in were $2.29/gal but if I expanded by view I found that the Sam's Club in East Knoxville TN was $1.79. Wow, what a difference. Over the summer I have been pulling fuel out of my tank to use in the tractor so I knew I'd need quite a bit. Sure enough, I pumped 85 gallons so by driving ~25 miles I saved $40 besides stocking up on some necessities we needed anyway and giving the motorhome a good workout at the same time.

So I decided to take the rig for a run and fill up with fuel. I had moved the rig about 3 weeks ago and everything ran fine. I did change the air filter, dryer filter, and did a grease job. Also drained a little fuel out of the filters to check for water and any signs of algae. But I did not start the rig. Went out today, pulled in the slides, unhooked the sewer, disconnected the power and pulled up the jacks. Went to start the rig and no power to the dash, but the backup camera was on strange!!! So I went to work trying to figure out what might be wrong. First thing I did was make sure the chassis disconnect switch was on, it was. I had one fail about 7 years ago so thought it might the problem again. Since I had been working at the back of the engine I checked the rear start, I had accidently hit the button before so thought that might be the problem. I pressed the rear start function and it the lift pump started to run. Went and checked and I had left the key on. Still wouldn't start from the drivers seat. I knew the ignition switch itself could fail but since the the rear camera would come on and power was going to the jacks I ruled that out. When I would turn the key I could also hear a relay clicking in. I pulled out my multimeter and checked the chassis voltage in the rear electrical bay and also the front drivers side run bay, all were good. I checked all the fuses in the front drivers side run bay, anyone associated with the key & ignition was good. Also swapped out the ignition relay. Tired to start, NO GO. I went to the rear run bay and checked all the transmission and engine fuses, all were good. Tried to start the rig again, NO GO. Since I did change the air filter and dryer filter I checked the top of the engine to make sure I didn't pull any wires loose and around the dryer to make sure anything was amiss. Couldn't find anything wrong there. At this point I point I was stumped. I thought I was familiar enough with my wiring diagram to check all the likely culprits. I even contemplated coming and posting for suggestions but I decided to start from scratch again. First with the multimeter and then to the rear start area. I decided to toggle it back and forth between front and back and when I pressed it to the front function it clicked into position. Went and checked and it started from the drivers seat. So the problem was the rear start toggle, when I first checked it I toggled it to the rear and then I thought to the front but it didn't fully engage. It did the second time. If I hadn't checked this a 2nd time I could be in the middle of trying to find a wiring problem still scratching my head. So lesson learned, step back, take a deep breath, rethink the problem, prioritize the potential causes, and start over.

Pits are great if you have enough room and access. Ivan K is right on being able to have egress in case of emergency, hard to do unless you build a really long pit that daylights beyond the end of the motorhome. Even though I pretty much do all my own maintenance it would be hard to justify a pit. In the past I had to crawl under the coach on asphalt and recently on gravel. Being able to be on concrete will be a step up. If I get too old to do that then I'll probably be too old to use the motorhome.

My wife has her on a shipping container, so that may be an option. I'll probably add a carport on one side of the garage at some point.