jacwjames

I did the same thing for the top, used pieces of aluminum angle painted black and 3M tape and then screwed into the front of the cabinet. Since I don't have a full platform on the bottom I had to get creative on how to fasten the fridge in place. For the bottom I added additional wood pieces on both sides using glue and kreg pocket screws and some additional wood behind to beef it up. I then used heavy brackets aligned with the leveling feet of the fridge and used these to fasten the front down. Just removed the feet, set the heavy bracket to align with the feet, marked the hole to align, drilled it and then after mounting bracket screwed the leveling foot up from the bottom. Not going anywhere. As I was test fitting my fridge I decided to add blocking at the back to space it to align with the face frame and also added tapered blocks so that when I pushed it into place it would center into the opening. This would keep the fridge from shifting. This was also helpful as I was moving mine in/out as I was installing, probably did this 10 times since the last thing I did was drill the new intake/exhaust holes for the furnace from when I lowered it. I wanted to be 100% sure the fridge would fit before I cut the new holes since there was no turning back after that. Since my fridge was lowered ~6 inches the bottom front louvered vent is not really noticeable so I didn't bother remaking it with louvers but instead used the rails and stiles to make a frame and just used a piece of wire mesh painted black. If you zoom in on the picture below you can see the bottom and top brackets. Painted black they match the fridge and aren't noticeable.

Ok, good to know. Thanks

Looks good, How did you secure the top of the fridge? Enjoy!

Attached is the parts page for my Windsor, which may or may not be the same as your coach. It shows 80, 60, and 40 lbs struts depending on door size. I have ordered and replaced the larger ones. Not sure on the engine access door, it takes 2 which may be the 80 lb struts. 1 Baggage Door Struts.pdf

My storage bays aren't wide enough to accept a tire so I made a carrier for a full size mounted tire, it swings down to load/unload but the tire is heavy. I originally used a dual hitch receiver but then mounted two receivers to the chassis frame and use a cross member that swings out, this is too much weight though so will probably go back to the dual hitch mount. I did this when we went to AK, didn't want to be stranded in the middle of no where. Next time I change tires I'll use one I pull off and change out the spare to keep decent rubber on it.

The previous owner of my coach added two 125 watt panels to the one 85 watt panel (yes I know this is not ideal). When I first bought the coach I realized there was not enough amps charge showing. I tested all the panels and found the two Keyocera 125 amps were not putting out, I had called Helitrope at the time and he suggested I contact them as there was a recall and even though I was not the original purchaser they replaced at no charge. Now on a good day I may see 12-15 amp charging. One issue that I found was the junction box under the refrigerator vent was corroded so I replaced with a new box and 2 buss bars to hook the solar panels to. You may just want to check the box and while up there measure to see if you are getting any voltage from the solar panel.

I would look in your electrical bays near the batteries since they would connect to the batteries and bypass any other 12 volt systems. I have 2 fuses from solar, one is for the chassis and ones is for the house. There is a wiring diagram on the door that shows these. The wires actually attach in front of the battery disconnect so they keep the batteries charges if the disconnects are off.

Yes, you are right, my tow limit is 100 miles. In all 3 cases I was just under the limit. They let me choose the the service facility. I also understand that it will cost me out the wazoo if I am in the middle of now where have have to be towed. FWIW, a friend of my wifes just bought a new Thor Outlaw and came down for a visit in June. She had was using the built in GPS and got directed onto a small rural road and had to back into a tight spot to turn around. Ended up doing a little damage to the rear drivers side but also something pulled her rear taillights out. This also caused her rear and side cameras to quit working. She was able to make it the last 10 miles to our house but didn't want to drive all the way back to Michigan from TN with no camera or rear lights. With the new coach they got a subscription to Coachnet so they attempted to get a service technician to come out and fix the problem. Her husband in Michigan and her in TN were left hanging. NOPE, NADA, NO WAY the best Coachnet could do was make an appointment 2 months out to a near by repair facility. I ended up fixing the tail light problem myself, the hardest part was finding the fuse panels, ended up having to call Thor Technical support which ultimately pointed me in the right direction, being a new coach the person could not find in any of his documents where the fuse panels were located so he went back to the shop floor and asked a foremen who gave him 2 possible locations. Ended up being under 2 of the front dash panels that were held in place (very firmly) with Velcro. None of the fuses were labeled so had to pull each one to find the 2 blown fuses. I also rerouted and firmly attached the wiring harnesses which were all hanging pretty low below the chassis frame, road debris could have also taken them out pretty easily. Long story short, I doubt I'd subscribe to Coachnet based on this experience.

I am hesitant to reply to this thread as now I will get an email notification when someone posts but here goes. We have had AAA for over 25 years, even before we had an RV. Over the years we have had our personal vehicle: towed, flat tires repaired, broken key in ignition etc. So just for these types of problems AAA has paid for itself. We then upgraded to AAA Plus when we got a Class C, We had a transmission problem and had to have it towed. We then moved up to our Class A and have had to have that towed two times. Once when the transmission control module crapped out and a second time due to radiator damage. The first two tows went off pretty well, the third one no so much. It was memorial day weekend and AAA had a hard time finding a tow company with a large enough truck willing to tow me. I had to spend the night in a Cracker Barrel. AAA did update me on a regular basis and to be honest I could understand the situation. The tow itself was good, the driver quickly hooked up and secured the rig, removed the driveshaft, hooked up the air to release the brakes, hooked up lights and we were on our way. Yes AAA may not take care of all the issues that could happen with an RV but what they do cover is good enough for me. Cost is ~$179 per year for all our daily drivers and the RV. I think this is a good value.

Kinda figured Looks like you are doing too good of job to make a simple mistake.

I noticed on the fan assembly that one of the hydraulic connections doesn't have any type of cap to prevent contamination. Worked in mining for +30 years and learned that contamination is one of the worst ways to fail an hydraulic system. Last project I worked on I had to dismantle the backhoe boom on my tractor to repaid a failed weld. I ordered enough caps and plugs for every hose I had to remove. Cheap insurance.

I ran the generator until it quite, I drove it to a station and put 100 gallons of fuel in it. I think I still showed ~1/4 tank, I do not know how much fuel would have been left for the engine, would have been nice to know. I know now have a Silverleaf VMSpc monitor and know how much fuel the engine is using and will fill up when I get down to about 1/3 of a tank.

My coach came from Florida, I had no maintenance records or info on how long it sat. Sometime after when I was changing fuel filters the primary filter was almost completely clogged by black slime. No doubt if I hadn't changed fuel filters it would have eventually stopped the coach dead in it's tracks. Since then I use a combination of Biobor (a biocide) which kills the algae and Startron (an enzyme) which breaks it down. Fuel filters could be your issue.

You indicate that this has not been a problem before and only happens now while driving. This to me indicates it is a "shorting" problem where wires are either touching each other or ground. Could be a place on the wire that has had it's insulation rubbed off compromised. My recommendation would be to disconnect the load side of the GFIC wires and see if it doesn't trip while driving. If it stays on then the problem is down stream. You will have to determine the route of the daisy chained outlets and isolate one at a time. You might guess and disconnect one of the center outlets, reconnect the wires at the GFIC and see if stays in, if it does the problem is further down stream. Not knowing the routing of the daisy chain will be the challenging part. I had to track down problem circuits in the new house I wired. Even knowing how the circuits were wired it still was a challenge. In two cases I actually had bad feeds from the main panel and concluded that the dry wallers or finish guy hit the homerun wire with a screw. I found latter that the finisher was using longer screws to pull wall board in, drywallers used the standard 1 5/8" screws. I had 2 home runs running the same general vicinity that both were shorted. (do you know how hard it is to replace wires from the service panel to the individual rooms when the drywall is up and finished).

I would suggest you join the Cummins Quickserve site. https://quickserve.cummins.com/info/index.html Once you register and put in your engine SN you can do search for parts and maintenance documents. I downloaded the complete maintenance manual for my engine. I also have downloaded dozens of drawings with parts breakdown for different components or systems. As I read different forums and see different issues pop up I will go to the Cummins site and retrieve and save the information for future reference. If you have the original documentation that came with your coach there should be an engine service manual that lists items specific to the engine. Other items will be specific to the chassis such as the air filter and air dryer since these were added by Monaco during build.

Yup, mine gets warm >>>> heat is energy just like a light bulb.

Do you have a salesman switch that shuts the house portion off? If I leave mine on my batteries will deplete even though I have 325 watt solar. If I turn the salesman switch off the batteries will stay charged. I started to try and figure out what the big draw was but had other better things to do. I did start putting a clamp amp meter on various wires in my passenger side rear electrical, which lead me to shut of the salesman switch, but that's as far as I got. I did leave the inverter display active to monitor voltage and state of charge, it does not draw much power in idle state. So I will be following this thread.

GFIC could be tripping when it senses ground wire to neutral or lead wire. Might be moisture related or wires might not be insulated/tapped to prevent wires from touching while bouncing down the road. It doesn't take much. I would inspect every outlet downstream from the GFCI and make sure wires are secure and tapped and the ground wire is tucked as far back into the box as possible. The GFIC could also be on the verge of failure. They do go bad. While building my house I installed at least 3 GFIC outlets that were bad. You could try replacing GFIC as a last resort.

Richard, My VIP controller is behind the radio. I can access it by taking out the small panel that has the AC controls. You can reach if from there. My VIP controller quit and it happened after I changed out the Cobra CB box. Went back in and found that one wire was pulled out of a pin connector in the wiring harness. It was obvious that it had been pulled out before, someone tried to crimp it back but didn't work. I finally bought a small battery powered soldering tool and fixed it in place. been working ever since. You might try just unplugging and plugging back in the connectors first, I've read several times where this solved the problem.

http://www.rv-project.com/projects/ems.php

There is a metal shroud that bolts to the radiator/CAC stack and then there is a cross support that bolts to the shroud and the fan motor assembly bolts to the cross member. I attached a parts page showing how it attached. I think most of the side radiators have a similar configuration, at least in this time frame, with different sizes based on engine size. 1 Engine Fan Cooling.pdf

I remounted the electrical outlets the same as Richard, which resulted in the +2" clearance in the rear of the fridge. I also added additional blocking at the top and slides to keep the fridge from moving. On the sides I actually tapered the blocks so that the refrigerator centered itself when I pushed it in. In the end the front of the refrigerator aligned flush/even with the front of the cabinet. Since I made two separate supports for the fridge to sit on that align with the rollers there is plenty of air movement from under the fridge.

Here is a post on IRV2 I did when I installed my Samsung. My Windsor has a lower ceiling height then yours so it was difficult to get the height I needed, had to beg/borrow/steal every 1/16th of an inch. I had posted what I aid on the old Yahoo site but I don't think any of those posts are accessible. Had good advice from Bob Nodine and Vanwill, I'm sure others will offer theirs for your specific situation. https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/samsung-install-finally-done-461001.html My furnace is a Suburban which does have essentially a zero clearance rating for heat. I lowered my furnace all the way to the floor, it was sitting on a wood platform ~1-5/8" off the floor. This gave me just enough to get the refrigerator to fit. After I confirmed it would fit I drilled new holes for the furnace intake/exhaust.

When I bought my Samsung RF18 the only other model that would have worked in my coach was the Fisker Paykal in the French Door type. Even though I had to do a lot of work to get the Samsung to work I did not want to spend that much money on a Fisher Paykal and deciced to take a chance on the Samsung. Since then GE has started making a fridge that actually is a little shorter then the Samsung. There are some top freezer models that fit but I didn't want that type. If you go to the AJ Madison site select the style of fridge you want and then counter depth. It will narrow the selection. Then select height, which is the critical dimension, going up in height to start seeing what choices you have. The taller the more choices.

After researching options I did decide to go with the Aluminum radiator from CG&J. These types of radiators are in all sorts of applications and an RV side radiator application is probably one that puts the less stress because of the mounting. In my case the radiator is suspended from the top. There is hardly any way there is any stress on the radiator and the rubber isolators provide for reduced bouncing/shock. For $2500 I was willing to take a chance on the radiator. I guess time will tell but so far so good.