birdshill123

If Ontario requires a similar inspection as a class 8 truck it is extensive. They pull the drums and " mic",check the front end,air brake tests,all lights ,tires and more.

Your inspection depends on the province where you live.

In the gneneral Class A forum on IRV2 a gentleman with an 09 was having trouble finding a Hydraulic pump for his unit. It is different than what Monaco normally uses. The rights to that pump are in England.Hhe found a pump in stock at this place:Far West Hydraulics in Indeo, CA (Owner is Mark, 760-347-5555). Could be valuable information.

I would like to have those parts on hand. How many SKPa38 should I buy? What about the solenoid coils? I can source O rings easily, I noticed the solenoids in the list are 24 volt?? What material is preferred for the orings?

I am in Mexico and just found that kit on a sort of Mexican e bay. 900 pesos delivered in Mexico. That is just over $45.00. Wow.

When we were stuck in Canada due to the pandemic, I put the Dynasty in cold storage. I had all the batteries in my workshop and bought a battery maintainer with connections for 4 batteries. I have 2 chassis and the 8 6 volts. Would leave the maintainer on the 6 volts for a week and then switch to the 12 volts for a week. Then 2 weeks with nothing. Worked great. Hardly used any water. My workshop is heated to 50 degrees. We keep our Bluebird in Mexico and have a battery maintainer that does the same thing. The young man that looks after the house would connect the batteries for 2 days a week. Both units have inverter chargers but they consume a lot of electricity.

Our Dynasty has the same valve. If you always use a filter to fill your water tank or running off the hose the Asco will last longer,. The diaphragm has a tiny hole from the factory. If a speck of sand gets in the valve will malfunction. You can buy a new valve for the price of the rebuild kit. You can take apart the valve without removal. Just split the valve and checkout the diaphragm for sand. There are off brand Chinese valves that will work but I do not trust them.

No heat from dash vents on our 08 Dynasty. Do you have your AH on Diesel? At 35f the electric elements will not provide enough heat. On our MH there is a switch to turn the AH heat under the radio to a hi speed. Are you parked or driving? Our unit can be kept at 70 degrees even in 15f temp while parked..

I have noticed lately that many OEM household fridges are not Samsung. Lots of Whirlpool. Even with buying power a Samsung is considerably cheaper than Whirlpool. Must be a reason for not installing Samsung. Could be all the lawsuits against Samsung.

Of course you csnnot lift both sides at the same time. I jack one side a littleand then do the other. It is a pia but works. I have one air over hydraulic jack and should have 2. I have noticed many smaller shops have inependent wheel lifts. Cool tool but very expensive. When I had my shop built I was gping to have an outside pit. But it would be full of snakes.

Tom. Thank ypu for the Rev story. But reading it makes my blood boil. Rev is as bad as Navistar. Getting back to the shades. Our 08 Dynasty has the 2 Catefree shades. My driver side stopped working. I had it in a shop in Tucson for other work and they said it was the motor. Nothing in stock. Once I returned the unit to my shop in Mexico I fooled around and it would work in one direction. I removed the shade and gerry rigged a test stand. By changing the wires it reverses. It worked perfectly. Started lookomg at the overhead coach wiring and Monaco used those Blue crimps. But the wires were more like 18 ga. One had a loose crimp. Fixed it,reinstalled blind and all is good.

Lately I have been getting the symptoms of a faulty ignition switch. Sometimes you turn the key and all is good. Sometimes nothing happens. I remembered reading about this problem since we first aquired our Dynasty. I am positive it is the switch. I watched the videos on removing the bezel and then the tumbler assembly. As an aside one of those videos was from a "good old guy". In order to turn the bezel he put a big screwdriver on the indent and used a hammer to beat some sense into that bezel. WOW! I see a whole bunch of different part # but it is supposed to be from a 68 to 72 Chev PU. Is that correct? Thanks

Scotty. I commend you for mentioning this service. BUT It is flawed. Might work well for travel trailers but not Diesel pushers. Most ( but not all) RV service centers do not do the following: Air brakes, suspension, engine, transmission and chassis. Those services require a licensed or at least experienced HD mechanic. I know that the old Beaudry's had mechanics. LazyDays may have someone. But Joes RV service in say Tucumcari has only a handyman. Truck Down is a good service for finding a mobile mechanic. BUT some will not work on Motorhomes. Even many of the large dealerships will not touch a MH. Freightliner does have many dealerships that servcie motorhomes. Be prepared for a big bill! Cummins used to have service centers that even worked on the RV section of a MH. There are many mobile RV service guys that worked at the factories. They often are very experienced and can do some repairs other than the RV section. There is a website called RV Service Reviews. It is crowd sourced and very outdated. Many of the listings are companies that do not exist.

This could get political real fast. CNBC has a good article on the problems. It appears to be an east coast problem. Partially political. Has to do with the jones act. The article was written by an analyst that follows these things. Presidents are not Dudes.

The sky is not falling. No shortage exists. Period. I would hesitate to get excited based on a tv host.

We are in Fort Morgan Co. Heading to Santa Fe for 2 days then on to Tucson and Mexico Will be in Q for 5 weeks this winter. G-D willing.

Josam is about 2000 miles away. As I stated I was at a Freightliner dealer . Was in Omaha. They have 14ocations. The first valve was installed at a TA in Fargo nd

I too try to do my own work. But when I am on the road it is more difficult In my latest case there was no way I would get under my unit when there was an air leak.

In my youth I was a parts manager and Service writer for a huge HD brake and wheel shop in Alberta. We had 6 branches and 600 employees. Our soe ualties were Brakes and Chassis. We even built low boy trailers. Granted this was 50 years ago but we charged for the time a mechanic spent on the job. Today they start the clock the minute you are at the service desk. The mechanic will discuss your problem with the mechanic and the clock is running. If the mechanic needs a schematic or more info the shop computers have all the manuals. He may print out pertinent data. The clock is still running. It stops when the service writer enters a description of the work performed and he is able to print an invoice. But these dealerships do not work for $125 an hour. The Freightliner shop I was at this week charges $185 an hour. Shop supplies are around 12% of the labor charges. That us a lot if rags and solvent!. When I am at home I know some independent shops that do good work for far less. In the USA many of the smaller shops do not work on motorhomes. They are very busy and can afford to be picky. My rant for the day.

Wednesday they changed the valve that the TA had installed. It was faulty. I went for a 10 mile test ride and air was exhausting at a high rate from one of the valves. But the unit remained level. Back to the shop and they started looking at where the line from the leaky valve connected to the system. The macanic eas ready to go home. He switched 2 of the lines and like magic all was good. I think the T A had fooled with thoseines. We drove 400 miles today and it is fine. I am going ro start a new thread on getting service at large dealer shops.

Spent all day yesterday at FL. I had them replace the remaining oem valve Now all3 are Hadley 450. Left there with a much lighter wallet. Shop supplies alone were $160.00!!! Drove 2 miles to spend the night at WM. Left to go south this morning and I could see the digital air gauge going nuts . Pressure would drop from 120 to about 90 plus and then go up. Stopped and air was rushing out of the level valve. Went back to FL and once it was inside the leak stopped. I was able to drive it around the lot and it leaked. Back inside and te h was checking everything and it stopped leaking.We are back at WM and will drive about 20 miles and go back to FL. I am thinking one of the valves is faulty. But if they change it and it still leaks who will pay the labor $185 an hour. I am frustrated. It is 20 degrees in the am so maybe some moisture caused ice??

These are pics of my valve.

One more question. I had a similar problem a year ago. But the shop replaced the front levelling valve and all was good???

The saga continues. We hit the road this morning and now it is leaning to the right. Air is exiting quickly between the rear axles. I cannot get under. Too dangerous. When I started the engine air eas below 65 lbs. Took a long time to build up. Compressor loads and unloads quickly. But it keeps it between 102 and 121. We drove to Omaha and are parked at a Love's right beside Freightliner. They are opened 24/7 but full up today. They hope to get to me tomorrow. I really need some information. The Hadley part # for the rear levelling valves. I looked at the files for the rear ride height but could not find anything for an 08 Dynasty. If I remember correctly you measure between the top and lower plates. Thanks

Thanks Tom. The valid will now level it when parked. I am taking it for a ride to see if all is OK.