birdshill123

I was a parts mgr. In my youth. Sometimes oem is better. But not always. If you need front suspension parts fir your car or truck Moog is far better than oem. Same for shock absorbers ,struts and more. Often when an oem part has failures an aftermarket mfr. will build a better unit. But by aftermarket I am not referring to Chinese products. ,

Just for towing is a legit company. They are ( or were ) a part of Southern Driveline. There is a fellow on the Escapees forum that is selling some Remco parts. he has 2 pumps.

Probably 50 % of the RV's sold today have residential fridges. This includes pull trailers and 5th wheels. I am surprised that Dometic and Norcold don't build electric fridges that fit in the space of their popular propane models.

You must have a special reason to not want a house fridge. A backwards change.

It is too bad that owners of the affected motorhomes did not form a co-op. 20 pwners pay about 20k each and buy that write off. Then they hire someone like Frank to figure out a fix. Each owner now adds enough for Frank and maybe others to finalize the fix. The co op and Frank et al now own the fix. Any owner wanting his unit fixed would have to pay to join the co- op The original 20 sell the unit and recover some of the funds. Think of this as a guarantee that your unit will not become a brick. My idea may need some tweaking. Remember not all Insurance companies will be generous with write offs. How many on this forum would ever buy one of those units? How many dealers would take one in trade? Owners have to be proactive to protect their investment. All of the costs spread amongst owners would be minimal.

On our 08 Dynasty the emergency window in the slide out behind the driver is easy to remove. It slides in a groove just like an awning. Remove the screws at the end of the groove. Apply some wd40 and slide it rearward. Voila, you have a space that should handle any fridge. We were removing the original JennAir and installing a new 22 cu. ft. monster. Removed the fridge doors and there is about an inch to spare. I did not have a forklift so hired a local mover that had a liftgate on his 5 ton. Worked great. No seats to remove or worry about hitting the dashboard. The old fridge was quite accessible through the rear solid paele that Monaco installed instead of a vent. The new one would require the fridge to be moved forward to get into the box of the fridge. I may build a platform that will be the right height.

Of course they can "go bad". They are made of metal. Not 1/8 thick. Small gauge. Some of those tubes are mounted very low. Subject to salt, snow, blasting by road dirt , etc. There is a reason why companies make replacement tubes bent to fit.

I was thinking of replacing the metal tubes connected to the rad hoses. They are not leaking (yet) and appear to be solid but look bad. I would paint them but would have to drain rad and remove to remove the rust. Disturbing the rubber hoses would probably mean replacing them as well. One of the tubes was welded. Probably built with U bends. The other looks like it might be mandrel bent . Are these just standard exhaust tubing? I did find a company that has stainless tubes. They list some for Monaco Dynasty. MOTOR HOME Coolant Tubes | Southpointe Radiator Probably about $1000 after freight. I have seen ads in trucking magazines for companies that will duplicate your tubes. Not stainless. Any suggestions? Thanks

I think the differece is thatwe have a pump and hydraulic motor forthe rad fan. A lot more complex than an automobile power steering. We had a Bluebird and the hydraulic systems were always a problem. The Italian system on our Dynasty does not have a good N.A. parts distribution network. When our unit was new my fan began to run all the time. There was a part missing from the pump. Monaco did not have the part but they had a complete pump. I told them to ship me the pump. I would remove the part and return the pump. The tech guy went out to the assembly area and robbed the part. There were none in N.A. So I want to really look after the hydraulic system. The API no longer has a spec for Dexron ATF. So what you buy is sort of Generic. They are all the same.

Frank. No high pressure reading but it is at least 20,000 miles and 4 years since I changed the spin on. I have a spare filter. We have driven in temps as low as 15 to 20f with no problems. I thought that maybe Monaco used the aw46 due to the Italian hydraulics (casappa?) So I guess I could skip changing the filter for now and maybe do the oil change with all new filters next year.

Positive it is aw46. Sticker in engine bay states it is factory filled with Texaco Rando aw46. It is clear. I may have Amazon ship it to Mexico. About $49.00 delivered for a gallon. I really should replace all the oil. It takes around 36 qts. for the factory fill. I will just buy the one gallon for now as I do not have the little filters for the tank.. Does anyone have a part # for those filters? My filter is a little higher than the tank. But that filter might hold more than a quart. I only have one qt. My fluid level will be a little low but maybe I can just add some 30 wt. oil. Maybe 1/2 a qt. I will order 2 5 gallon buckest later and change the system.

We are still in Mexico. I am about to change my spin on Hydraulic falter but discovered I only have about one qt. of new fluid. I can buy it here but you have to buy a 5 gallon pail! The last time I needed some I was in Tucson and had the same problem. F nally found a hydraulic shop that had it in bulk and he filled my container. I was told you can mix some engine oil but for aw46 you need 20W. We do not have Tractor Supply. Any suggestions. I have 10w30 and maybe some straight 30. Lots of ATF. any suggestions? Thanks

Larry Laursen: What addresses do you use for both east and West?> Why do you need those specific addresses? Thanks

Too late i drilled the holes. That screen went away the next time I turned it on. Tim is a great guy. I am very pleased. In the beginning I did not understand that the Alladin feeds everything to the monitor. I drove all the way from Canada toMexico with no monitor. Not fun.

Did you try my recommondation in another forum? Contact Just for Towing in Yuma.

Today I enlarged the whole in the dash for the new monitor. Between Tim at RV cams and Jim Clendendon I finally understood the wiring. It is actually quite simple. I still have to drill the holes to mount the monitor. Started the engine and there was the Alladin menu. All cameras are working and I can see all the engine data. I did not have to add any wiring for the rear camera. I am feeding it 12 volts via the monitor. How ever I must be missing something in the setup. I have 3 rows with colored dots and figures: 03,06,09. This is on every screen. ?? Any help with that appreciated. You do not realize how much you rely on a BU monitor until it fails. I use the date screen a lot

Nice pics!!

Here is a photo of the back of the monitor.

Mike. Your system may be different. I have 4 cameras and the alladin, My monitor is a VCB 62mh

I will finish removing the monitor on Satrurday. I had to remove the radio and the panel that holds the HVAC controls. Now I can see the 4 Philips screws that fasten the monitor. I have a plastic plug with maybe 5 or 6 wires at one end of the monitor and one cable similar to an svideo that I think goes to the connector marked camera one. I will post a picture on Saturday. I think Tim can make up an adapter for the camera one cable. But I do not know what to do with those 18 ga. cables

I finally have the kit from RV acms to replace my Dead Sony monitor. Before I remove the old one I would like to find schematic for the monitor wiring. The one listed under 08 Dynasty is quite different from mine> I can only see one small sort of s video connector and a bushing on the back of the Sony with a bunch of 18 ga, wires. I did see the connector box for many of the cables. Most are RCA jacks but I think one may be a coax. Only a few are marked. Tim at RV cams will help me but I need to know what that box does. Where is the connection for the Alladin? Thanks.

Thanks Southpaw. When I googled that switch did not show up. There was one listed that had 3/8 terminals. I even contacted the Mfr. but they never replied. The Fastronics is almost the same as original except it has a pin to prevent the switch from rotating. The fastronics was cheaper but if I had known the part # of the Cole Hersee I would have bought one!

I have that new switch in my shop. It is almost a duplicate of the Cole Hersee. Gary Donahue. I think if you start a new thread on your problem you will get a reply. All the house batteries are connected. Maybe your cables are bad. Or the PO changed out 4 of the batteries and the others are toast. Did you check the voltage of each battery? Do you have a battery hydrometer. Maybe check each cell.

After spending 5 weeks at Q I can see why people buy these softeners. My concern would be drinking water. We have a residential fridge with a water/ ice dispenser. Soft water makes for bad coffee and horrible ice.