birdshill123

Thank you Frank. I will try that. But isn't it pin2 to ground? I have old eyes! I looked at the schematic again. Pin3 goes to horn relay. I have ground at the air solenoid. But no 12 volt. Thanks

If you must be towed insist on a landall. No need to remove driveshaft and less chance of damage. CoachNet will get you that type of equipment.

I just got off the phone with VIP. No chips for any of their products. No ship date for the chips. She said ti could be a year or more. They are looking for an alternate supplier but so far nothing. I think the controller may be repairable. I have a small horn switch that would work if I could figure out how to run the wires. Any help appreciated.

I have given up on repairing the controller or the wiring. I understand that the horn button applies a aground when pressed. This must send a signal to the controller to send 12V to the air solenoid. I am waiting to hear if the mfr. has that model in stock. One dealer had it but it was almost $350.00. I wonder if a newer version of that controller would work? I am trying to find a way to run a wire from a small horn button to either the front run bay or to the area behind the dash. So far no luck. I removed the upholstery panel under the driver armrest. There are wires covered with black foam. But that does not get you into the front run bay. I am becomnig frustrated and that is never good! Rocketman: Thanks but this has nothing to do with the salesman switch. I finally got the radio and monitor to work by turning off all power for an hour. I guess something had to reset. But the horn does not work.

One thing leads to another! As I had posted a few months ago my air horn stopped working. I did the test of the controller and it failed. They were out of stock so I bought a small horn button and will wire it to the air solenoid. I did some testing and there are 2 white wires connected to the solenoid. One tests as a ground the other is dead. I applied 12 volts to one of the solenoid terminals and nothing happened. Suddenly I realized that the unit has been sitting in my shop for months and there is no air!! Dummy!! I started the engine and was waiting for the air to build. I noticed that the radio and the monitor for the camera and Alladin were dead. I checked all the fuses in the front run bay. None were blown. I removed the dash cover and there were no other fuses. I pulled the upholstered panel by the driver's sat. I would have to get in there anyway to run a wire to the front run bay and then to the air solenoid. Monaco sometimes likes to hide fuses. Nothing. . I was through for the day but hooked up the wires to the air solenoid anyway. Went inside and the radio lit up!! Monitor is working. Somehow the ground to the the radio and monitor must be hooked up to that solenoid. I am stumped. That cannot be right! Any ideas??

Sorry about the theft. Probably it was stolen to use as a residence. There are thousands of rv's in the southwest occupied by people who have no homes.

Raj. The instructions I posted were not mine. I just cut and pasted. But I did replace the icemaker in my Bluebird. It was an 1988 and I did the work in around 2004. I never made any notes and the wiring was not difficult. So I cannot add anything to this thread. Perhaps the ice maker changed over the years. I do remember posters saying that lots of fridges used the same unit. Sorry.

the ice maker in a uline is a common part used in many fridges. The cheaper ones fit but sometimes need some wiring mods. Here is the info you need to fix your icemaker. This is for a standalone ice Uline ice maker used in many RV's. This info was for one in Bluebird. Well, the problem is fixed! Here was the solution I used. Jim (isp2952) mentioned in this thread that "If it still gets cold and not making cubes you can go to Lowes and buy a replacement." So off to Lowes where I find an IM116000 ice maker kit for $50. Bring it home and start to remove the old ice maker mechanism (see Jim's instructions below). Oh and the old icemaker unit was gross, real gross. The wiring went as follows:ULINE HARNESS.....................................NEW ICEMAKER KITYellow wire and White wire.......................Blue wireBlack............................................. .......BlackBrown............................................. ......YellowRed............................................... ........cap this offRead immediately below...........................Green w/ Yellow stripNow there is a Green w/ Yellow stripe on the new icemaker kit and no other wire in the Uline cabinet harness to connect to. This (the Green w/ Yellow stripe) is a ground wire. So just slip a wire through the back of the Uline icemaker harness and connect it to the Green w/ Yellow stripe wire of the new ice maker. Connect the other wire to the back of the Uline cabinet (I connected it to ground near the compressor on the frame).That is it...other than getting the old icemaker unit out of the Uline. Here are the instructions from Jim which he kindly sent me:Remove the plastic cover on the front of the icemaker, and remove the three screws holding the metal plate in place. Pull it forward and you'll see all of the wiring, the timing cam, motor, etc. This plate also holds the bin switch arm; the arm will be loose after you pull the plate out. Five wires are of interest here: two power wires, a ground, one for the water solenoid, and one for the freezer's thermostat. Disconnect/cut these 5 wires they're the ones that go as a group to the back of the cabinet. Here's the part that actually took me the longest to figure out: how to physically remove the icemaker. There are a total of 5 screws that need to be removed. Two are hard to see, but pretty easy to figure out if you look at the new icemaker. They hold the icemaker to the side wall of the cabinet. The other 3 are smaller (1/4" socket) and screw in to the icemaker from the bottom. After all of these are out, it still isn't going to be loose, it'll be held to the mounting shelf with a thermal paste/glue. CAREFULLY pry it loose, trying not to bend the shelf any more than you have to the shelf is actually part of the refrigerant loop, so try not to scrape off paint and don't put any holes in it. Once you've separated the icemaker from the shelf, pull it straight forward. The probe for the thermostat slides into a metal tube mounted to the ice cube mold; don't bend it any more than you need to. Now is a good time to do any cleaning, if you want to. Electrical Fun: ULine, to their credit, links the compressor to the ice maker, so that it isn't working to cool the cabinet while the mold heater is trying to release new ice cubes. A normal icemaker doesn't have this function, and it'll work fine without it. BUT the thermostat needs to know what's going on so you will need to connect it to the neutral for the compressor to run at all. Otherwise, the wiring is pretty straightforward. My only caution at this point is to make sure that wire colors are consistent (or look at the diagram to match functions) with what I describe.I scrapped all the old paste they used to bond the icemaker to the shelf and use

If one is to believe the data in the first post there has to be references. Lots of them. otherwise it is just internet BS. Scientists require proof and it has to be peer reviewed. There is no free lunch so some of that post may be accurate. But I doubt the mining statistics are true

Ivylog. I did that test and it failed. I left everything connected on the controller and forced the point on my test light into the connector. Nothing. Then I stripped the wire j2.1. Still nothing. I wonder if there is some way to bypass the controller and still use the existing horn "button" on the wheel. Hypoxia has been helping me on the other forum. He suggested the same diagnostic. I do not have a 10 amp fuse marked horn. But there is a 6 amp auto reset fuse on board 8. I checked every fuse in the front run bay. All are good. The relays on that board are all soldered. I do not know where to find the horn relay. Small problem but frustrating. Thanks for your help.

I called the present owners of the smart wheel. It appears they are now the 3rd owner. They no longer have any tech support. But the nice lady told me how to find the troubleshooting for my version. The controller failed the test. Everything works except the horn. I still wonder if there is a hidden fuse or relay somewhere. A tone generator wont help as the signal goes into the controller. There is no voltage at the solenoid when you apply the horn. But hook the solenoid to 12 volts and the horn works. I suppose it could be the clock spring but that is beyond my technical abilities. Of course there are no units available due to supply chain problems. But she said they should have everything in January and if I place an order they will build a controller. You can tell the units are designed by geeky engineers as are the diagnostic functions. The Dynasty is not going anywhere until April. If It is not functioning by then I will wire in a horn button!

I will contact the company that now owns Samrtwheel. Thanks

I am having trouble with my air horn. 08 Dynasty. I cannot find a sepecific fuse for the horn. Board f8 has a marker for a 10 amp fuse but there is a 6 amp auto reset in that position. There is supposed to be a relay as well but could not find one. I ran power to the Hadley air solenoid and the horn worked. I removed the wheel cover and crossed 2 wires. Nothing. I did the test on J2.1. Nothing. My controller is a series 2 sm211 Unless I find a fuse I am assuming that the controller is bad. I did get some of that info on IRV2. I hate to buy a controller and find out it still does not work. The controller is obsolete but a few are available at over $300 to over $400. I can buy a sm213 module but it has extra connections. Don't know if it can be substituted. Any help appreciated

I will not comment on the shortage but I tried the card on our last 2500 mile trip. It was next to useless. At one independent there was zero discount on winter fuel At another I checked the map fuel price at 8 am. When I arrived at my planned stop fuel had risen in price and the discount was under 10 cents a gallon. I also found that once you get one to the Southwest there are hardly any stations listed. But by watching the smaller chains and independents there can be savings. I paid $3.38 at a truck stop in FT.Morgan,co. The loves on the map was around $3.60 with the discount. Big disappointment. Perhaps when and if fuel prices drop it will be an advantage.

If this 08 Dynasty is the same as mine it has a 120 volt Splendide dryer. Somehow I thought that if your inverter shore power is set to 50 amp everything can operate. But I do not remember if we ever used the rear air with the dryer.

Thanks Frank. I now feel left out! ButIcould install that remote

Good morning Hypoxia. My screen does not show anything electrical. There is a system options choice but then it calls for a code to enter. My manual briefly covers the Alladin. I guess I did not pay for the full meal deal! Willbo. My screen does show a video choice. Maybe that coax is part of that selection.

Lots of confusing advice. We have a 2008 Dynasty. The switch the op has that is burnt is not a transfer switch. It is a priority switch that prevents the rear ac and dryer to run at the same time depending on the power source. The transfer switch is in the basement. I do see any choices in the Alladin for changing electrical settings. The 08 Dynasty uses a different Alladin.pge 110 of the owners manual states there is an automatic Appliaance selector for the washer/dryer and the rear air. I certainly agree that many times electrical problems are caused by the cg power pedestal

Heat kills batteries. Your Silverado with battery connected has phantom draws. Use a battery maintainer.

I followed the instructions for my stacked splendide. Did not turn off anything. Put af in the drum and ran it according to the instructions. Unit spent all winter in unheated storage. Today I started de winterizing. All seems ok

Has anyone used the TSD in AZ? The truck pumps in Arizona include an extra tax. The RV or car pumps do not. I think it is 8 cents a gallon. Muflapis horrible. You do have to go inside. Many times the only ovations with a good price are very small. Casey's in some locations are not rv friendly. Other locations are far from the freeways. Crowded stations are an accident waiting to happen.

Pompeo. Why would anyone rotate tires on a MH? Definitely not a standard practice and of no value. Tags and Duallies wear differently than steers. Besides most owners change tires due to age not wear.

One of the problems is there is not a lot of completion.when the huge conglomerates buy up some of the old names all the coaches become similar. Because the assembly lines require speed quality goes down hill. Construction methods are not designed for durability. Just for fast assembly. Look at what happened to Entegra or Isata/ Dynamax. Has Newmar and Winnie gone downhill? More and more an older high end unit is not only superior to today's junk they are less expensive. However Bob's $10,000 upgrade cost would only work if the owner was handy and did all the work

Bob. Sorry to burst your Balloon. I am sure your Dad is happy with that unit. However it is not a million mile chassis. Even many of the entry level DP's are not million mile vehicles. Today's rv's are not up to the standards of even units from 10 years ago. Your Diplomat has a build quality that is rare in newer DP's.

Tires are in short supply do forget about deals.