woodylmiller

Got out my MCD owners manual to double check. We have the Gold Series with the Duo something or rather. CRS is kicking in. Anyway, there it is in picture form; brown wire goes to ignition on and there are two sets of programs. Once the ignition is on the front shade, not the visor, can not go any further down than 15 inches. After reviewing the electrical drawings I am no closer to a fix. I have ordered one of those snake cameras to be able to search around in places I can't see. This system was working just as described in the owners manual. We have programmed that shade many times in the past. Right now we are in the middle of that heat in the pacific northwest. 110 out, this project is on hold for a few days. Unfortunately the coach is not inside or under shade, we never have this kind of heat being this close to Canada. So one way or another I'm going to get ignition on power to that brown wire. If my DW, co-pilot, was ever driving and that rolling computer/house on wheels decided to lower that shade, well let's just say we'd have to throw her underwear away and I'd have a heart attack. Me, I'd grab that shade and yank it off it's supports and keep going. LOL. Woody Miller PS: There is nothing that would keep us from driving the coach, I can adjust the shade at whatever level I like before we head out. I just like that safety feature of limiting the downward travel of that shade.

My understanding is that the reason for two different programs on the front shade is to keep the shade from lowering while driving down the road. With the ignition on the shade only comes down about 10 inches or so and stops and can't go any lower. I would hate to be going down the highway and have that front shade start to lower and blocking my view of the road. The MCD tech said the brown wire was this safety wire, but it sure appears the brown wire was never connected to anything that I can see. At this point I beginning to think the tech wasn't correct and that I need to talk to another tech and check for a fuse somewhere that my have blown. Up to this point we always had two programs on that front shade. One for being parked we could hit the cockpit black out and all shades lower to set limits. The ignition on program removed this set limit on the front shade and only allowed the shade to lower about 10 inches. This program has no effect on the green visor shade which you can see through. Woody Miller

OK, yes, a vacuum pump and canister on the firewall. One small air line going to the HVAC selector switch, no other lines that I can see. All controls for the HVAC working. The line that I found behind the instrument cluster has some of the gray foam sealant on it about a foot from the end, guessing at some point it crossed the firewall. The line is not long enough to reach anything that I can see. There is no vacuum or pressure on the line with the engine on or off. At this point since I can trace the other end of the line I'm going to give up on it. It runs from the instrument cluster area to the right and disappears behind the cabinetry and I lose it halfway, don't see anything coming through the firewall. Woody Miller

Front shade will not program with the ignition on. Ignition off and the shade works. During programing attempt we are not getting the beeps to begin the programing process. Shade visor works fine. We noticed there is a brown wire coming from the shade motor that appears to go nowhere. Talking with the MCD tech I was told that the brown wire is powered with the ignition on and that is the safety wire that prevents the shade from coming down while the ignition is on. Pulled the cover off the corner pillar post since that is where the end of the brown wire was. I was hoping to fine the other end of the brown wire, but it's not there. The brown wire looks as though it was cleanly cut. ??? There is a yellow wire that goes nowhere from the visor part and it has a butt splice that was not crimped on the empty side of the barrel, if that makes sense. There are five wires in a loom coming from the dash up that pillar, all appear to be cleanly cut. There is a brown wire in the group but no power with the ignition on. Is it possible that there are two fuses on that shade motor? One for ignition on, one for ignition off? There are fuses behind the above dash TV, maybe??? One other thing, the two brown wires are different sizes. The motor wire is a 18 ga or so, the one from the dash looks to be a 14 ga. All wires look like they were never stripped or crimped. Very confusing with a brown and yellow wire, one from each motor that go nowhere, and the yellow wire has a crimped on butt splice only on one side, the empty barrel was not even attempted to be crimped by the looks of things. Everything has worked with no issue to date. Thanks, Woody Miller 09 Dynasty Regal IV

Thanks, I will check it out. Woody Miller

Back in the day vacuum was used to control wipers and other items. Not so much anymore. I'm replacing all my cameras and monitor and doing some clean up behind the dash. I came across what appears to be a vacuum line just hanging out under the dash between the steering wheel and the windshield. Too much "stuff" to remove to find the other end. But I don't think Monaco used "vacuum" to control anything, or did they? As far as I could trace the line it went from steering wheel to curbside under the dash. This is a 2009 coach. Could there be vacuum being used for something? I'm not a mechanic, but I don't think a diesel engine would use vacuum for anything, especially in this day and age. Before I go crazy trying to chase this down, does anyone know of any reason there might be a vacuum line in the dash area? Thanks, Woody Miller 09 Dynasty Regal IV

I was going to say the bean bag as well since it works well, that's what we use. Woody Miller 09 Dynasty Regal IV

Thanks guys. Was just something to think about. For the most part when in a park it seems like things go fine, have tripped a 50 sometimes, 3 A/C's, microwave and dryer. The EMS system to handle it. As to the charger, yes, sometimes it seems like the thing is really putting out. But I have 4 Trojan 8D's and 4, drawing a blank and it's too hot out to look, but they are 4 chassis/engine batteries that have a lot of amperage to them. Getting old ain't for sissy's that's for sure, memory seems to be the first to go. LOL. Anyway, 8 batteries and a constant parasitic drain. But the charger does kick out the amps at times. Woody Miller

My front and middle A/C's are on one leg plus the battery charger it appears. With all 3 going I'm drawing around 43 amps on that one leg and 0 on the other. This is while I am parked at the house and I only have the two A/C's going to cool down the coach while I'm working on other projects. In the parks the load is more balanced since all three A/C's and other gadgets are running. I plan to move things around a little to balance the load a little better, unless the engineers at Monaco had designed the circuits this way and I shouldn't mess with it. Any thoughts? Both front and middle A/C's pull around 13 to 14 amps apiece and the charger is really kicking up and running around 14 amps at times. My main concern is the voltage drop on the loads which causes an under voltage to happen, not good for a motor load. At around 43 amps or so the one leg has dropped to 117 volts while the other no load leg is running at 122 volts. Don't want to open a can of worms fooling around, got too many other projects to get done before the white stuff comes again and we are leaving before that. Thanks, Woody Miller 09 Dynasty Regal IV

Good point Frank. We did find out that you need that little pump for the thing to work. Lost power to it once, bad connector up at the top where all the electrical stuff is housed. Installed a second switch to power the pump if it ever loses power again. Way cheaper than the hourly rate we paid to first guy before the lack of voltage was discovered. As I recall there are quite a few bolts holding all the covers on. Woody Miller

Thanks to all. And yes, once it has run a minute or two the smoke clears. Only smokes at start up. Yeah, three glow plugs were replaced, I called them coils. It could well be the case that the shop that replaced the glow plugs would have liked to have sold me a new gen set for $12k plus labor. My feeling is that the diesel engine should run for many more thousands of hours. In cold weather it could well be the case that the engine cranks before the glow plugs have had a chance to get hot. Very good news, that leaves a blank check to pay for 8 new tires. Yay!! Just need to arrange a trip to a state with no sales tax. Oregon is not too far away. Woody Miller

I have a 10kw gen set. 2100 hours on the clock. No problem putting out current. Problem is excessive smoke during start up. I had a code one time of "over prime", had that checked out and they said no, it was 3 bad pre-heat coils. OK, makes sense. Replaced the 3 coils. A little better but not much during start up especially if it's cold out, freezing or below. It seems to me 2100 hours is not enough to need a rebuild. BTW, valves were checked and I was told they were OK. What is your opinion? Maybe a rebuild of the engine is in order? I am not the original owner. The gen had 1600 hours when I bought it. I've done the oil changes and had Cummins do the 1000 hour service. Any good source for a rebuild engine? I can run all three A/C's at once. I turn one off if we are using the microwave or the dryer (washer also???), the EMS system won't allow everything at once. So I'm confident about the the generator being able to handle a full load. Just need an engine, maybe. Thanks for any advice. Woody Miller 09 Dynasty Regal IV PS: good thing there are still blank checks in the checkbook. lol.

Wow, lol. You're speaking Greek to me, so I have no answers for you. I have the ISM500 so I'll follow this thread in case I run into the same problem. Good luck. Woody Miller 09 Dynasty Regal IV

I just ordered a set of projector style headlight assembly, the whole housing to replace my F-250 originals that left a lot to be desired as far as distance. Waiting for delivery to check out the new ones. I found them at Wal-Mart for $300 for the set, free shipping. The return policy at Wally World is pretty easy so taking them back won't be a problem. Had projectors in a Lincoln Navigator and they were nice lights. Woody Miller 09 Dynasty Regal IV

Thanks, yep, F-250. Forgot about the parts list. Woody Miller 09 Dynasty Regal IV

Not sure which forum topic to put under, thought I would start here. I seem to recall that Monaco used Ford F-250 headlight assemblies on the 09 Dynasty's. The do look like it. These don't really put out all that much light so I want to upgrade. Can anyone verify what Monaco used on their 08 to 09 Dynasty's? Thanks, Woody Miller 09 Dynasty Regal IV

Thanks to everyone. Just placed the order for a roll. Woody Miller

Someone mentioned the toilet paper hoarding. We were returning from the Monacoer's gathering when all of this started happening. I could not understand why people were hoarding toilet paper when the Rona was not causing someone to need that much toilet paper. Proves once a panic starts it may not make sense. So what might be hoarded the next time? Add human nature in the mix and we get an uncivilized society. Along with toilet paper you could not get hand sanitizer. I just happened to be standing in a Wal-Mart store when a pallet came in and there were a couple boxes of hand sanitizers on it. I took one bottle and started walking away. There was a commotion and I looked back and people were grabbing as many bottles as they could carry. The pallet was empty in a couple of minutes. So much for a civilized society. Bad part about being in a RV is the lack of storage. So it was tough getting from Florida all the way back to Spokane, WA. while all this was going on. We never knew if we could find water, toilet paper or paper towels. And meat was another problem. Even if we found some we didn't have storage for it. We made it back home OK, but I do have some concerns about hitting the road again in late fall before the white stuff arrives here, hopefully diesel won't be in the $8 a gallon range. Still going anyway, we are booked so we'll pay what we have to. Woody Miller

I might not have used the right words to describe what I'm looking for. I need the friction tape for my slides, the tape that causes the seal to move with the slide, either causing the seal to move out or back in. Sorry about any confusion. It's black, about 1 1/2 or 2 inches wide. Where is a good source to buy by the roll? The 3M website is not very useful. When searching for "friction" tape they talk about the electrical cloth type tape used many years ago, or the anti-slip stuff that comes in rolls but the width is way to much. Thanks, Woody Miller 09 Dynasty Regal IV

We had a very large trip planned this coming winter, well over 10,000 miles and many RV parks. We are now scaled way down, just heading south to Palm Springs for the winter and will hang out there for 6 months. Diesel prices are climbing every week. I'm a retired builder. I can't imagine how you bid a job these days with the prices of building materials so unstable. Material that used to just be "consumables" are now too expensive to throw away. A ten foot stick of 3/4 galvanized pipe for $44, really? Lumber, forget about it. I need to buy new tires since my date codes are at the 7 year mark. Was going to go with Toyo's, I hope I can find some and I'll have to pay a ransom amount for them. Not to worry, we'll probably get another 1% cost of living adjustment on our Social Security. 5% inflation, bullcrap. We are at double digit rates without any doubt. Gas at Costco in Spokane was $3.11 last week, up a dollar a gallon from a year ago. Diesel is running around $3.40 a gallon, right now. Woody Miller 09 Dynasty Regal IV

Found one of my tapes wadded up on the floor of the slide. Not sure why it came loose but I have to replace it. I can't recall what tape was recommended for the job. What is everyone using? Thanks, Woody Miller 09 Dynasty Regal IV

I'm replacing my monitor/cameras. My selector switch died some time ago and I understand there is no replacement. That's OK, the new monitors can do the switching. I'm replacing my all three of my current cameras and monitor. The selector switch went into the garbage when I rebuilt my side arm dash and moved the switches where I wanted them. My Sony system has the 6 pin connector, which I will reuse the cable by splicing onto the 4 wires that I will need for the new cameras. Copper is copper, insulation color is just for identification. There are butt splices that contain solder in them. You join the wires in the butt splice, heat it up, the solder melts and seals both ends. Woody Miller 09 Dynasty Regal IV

Paul, after talking with you I checked into the BOYO monitor and cameras. Pulled the trigger on their 9 inch DVR monitor and a camera for the rear view. Of all places, Wal-Mart sells BOYO and the lowest price with free delivery. Seems like the only thing I can't find a lower price on is the RAM mount stuff. RAM is pretty proud of their stuff, but it does the job.

Paul, thanks. Will text the pic's tomorrow, Wed.. Since I have the old Sony 6 pin I am planning on just splicing onto that cable since I can find no access to install a new cable. Woody

My camera housing was installed before the cap was installed or it was installed prior to the interior being finished. There are no fasteners on the outside of any type. Your set up is similar to mine except my camera was held in place with plumbers metal tape, the kind with the holes in it. ???? There were two "T" type bolts that were used to keep it in place using two small holes in the fiberglass cap. Today I will try and see if I can get to this area going through the back of the closet. I haven't quite figured out how to get pictures off my iphone onto my PC. Is there a small rear view camera that you would recommend? I really like those side view cameras/housings installed on Scotty's rig. My old Sony camera is model (?)CB-RV2MH, there is a letter I believe before the "CB" but it is hard to read. If that helps about the size of the housing, but the camera/air port look almost exactly like yours, it's just not flush mounted. I just need a camera I can put in that housing. One last thing, so how did I get the housing off if no access to fasteners? The T bolts appeared to have been glued on with some sort of adhesive that failed. Silicone was holding the housing in place. In your opinion does it make a difference in camera quality between CMOS or CCD technology? Thanks, Woody Miller 09 Dynasty Regal IV