woodylmiller

This thread is a year old, but, my step well cover will not extend. FRB; fuses are good, the relay I don't know. Going to try brute force to pull it out. I am not hearing a click or anything. Cover was working fine yesterday and we have used it every day for months. Some my check my work, but I found looking at the wiring schematic the power is run through CVH, green, relay in the FRB. There are two fuses in the fuse block that is mounted to the CCM of the chassis multiplex. Strangely enough there are two wire each for extend/retract from the VCH relay. About a foot from the relay plug both wires are butt spliced to create one wire from the two. I'm not an EE, but what is this all about? I have found this technique all over the coach. Anybody have a logical reason to have two wires from a rely plug spliced with a simple butt splice? Is this a "Monaco" thing? In case anyone is having trouble with their entry steps, mine quit working, Monaco used a flimsy thin metal plate that creates the motion, in and out, of the steps. I had a machinist make a new plate out of better steel and twice as thick. Been working fine for the past year. Woody Miller 09 Dynasty

Ask a neighbor in a rv park. I think one key was made to fit most everything. I re-keyed ALL my bay door keys to make it harder for another rv owner to simply walk up and use their bay door key to unlock mine. Woody Miller 09 Dynasty

Not sure what you have. We have MCD. When mine did that it was the relay. It had stuck in "up" direction. The shade would never reverse and go back down. Mine is on one of the chassis multiples chains, your 08 might have that system, I don't know. I have to take mine to the REV center in Coburg as they seem to be the only source this side of the Mississippi that has the software and laptop to fix the system. In the mean time I installed a double pole/double throw switch to temporarily fix the problem. Your's may be different. The chassis multiplex switch chains are cheap enough, it's just the cost of diesel to get there that will be expensive for me. A volt meter will tell you if you are getting a constant 12 volts to you motor, that was my issue, (stuck relay is my guess). Woody Miller 09 Dynasty

You can reuse the existing wiring, I did. Just match the colors on each end. No problem. I soldered my connectors to the old wire, but there are some kits out there for adaptors so you don't have to solder. Woody Miller 09 Dynasty

Going south is a good choice. I-90 has several passes and this time of year, no way. I live north of Spokane. We are in Palm Springs now but we will not even try getting home until April 1st, if then. Too much snow. One other thing, when the snow falls so does the IQ of a lot of drivers and it's a mess. We have seen traffic snarls that go on for miles during snow falling on the passes. Woody Miller 09 Dynasty

I just replaced my scissor type with the gas struts. Easy job, all doors to not match the doors in the examples that are out there. I spent about an hour measuring and lining up the parts to get it right. I left the old scissor on to act as a safety should the strut ever fail. Works great, have not had a wind strong enough yet to close the door. Total cost for strut and hardware was less than 50 bucks IIRC. Woody Miller 09 Dynasty

Thanks to everyone. 315's will not fit on my coach, they rub lock to lock. This was for a new set of tires, can't recall the brand. Funny thing was the coach had Michelin 315's when I bought it. Went to replace the tires and the new 315's would no way make it. My tire chart clearly reads 295's all around. Which is what I have now, Toyo 295's. The wheels, just the steers, are corroded and pitted around the stud holes. Looking at used wheels on Ebay I notice many of them have the same disfigurement around the stud holes. To remove the pitting would mean shaving at least an 1/16th of an inch to get to smooth. So it's going to be new wheels one of these days. I hate to have the new wheels end up with the same pitting after a number of years. Maybe a call to Alcoa to see if they might know what causes the pitting. Woody Miller

Trying to locate the proper wheel size. Tires are 295 80r 22.5. I'm finding 8.25 or 9.00 x22.5. Does anyone know the size for these tires? Will both sizes work? Cheaper to go with the 8.25's if they will work, which I'm guessing they would. Second thing, I'm needing new steer wheels. Mine have some terrible looking corrosion around all the stud holes. Both front wheels are showing what ever the crap is but the rears are fine. If your wheels have had this happen was there a reason or a way of preventing this from happening in the first place? Thanks, Woody Miller 09 Dynasty

Since leaks seem to be here to stay in one form or another, I did the relay mod and put a switch in the cockpit to turn the pump off when I didn't want to listen to it. Also, my pump was running off a 30 fuse in the front run box. I now have the relay fed from a main fuse block. I have also noticed that temperature swings will cause leaks to happen or not. Coach does stay level for weeks at a time. Woody Miller 09 Dynasty

We had the drivers side fixed window fog after going through a truck wash. Took a long time to find a replacement, months. Finally a new window was found. Cost installed: $4,000.00. Insurance covered all except for the $250.00 deductible. Lesson here is most likely you will need to have windows made for the older Monaco's. Woody Miller 09 Dynasty

We have the same problem. We are going to try and use heat to flatten it out. Thanks for the heads up on the window falling out. 3M may have some adhesives that are stronger than contact cement and will give you a little working time to get things just right. Past experience with contact cement is sometimes it is completely stuck the moment it comes in contact with no chance of removing or adjusting. Woody Miller 09 Dynasty

Thanks to everyone, that's what I was needing. Woody Miller

I have had enough of the crappy scissor style door arm that doesn't work on our entry door. I have seen threads on replacing those arms with struts. Can anyone point me to where I can find the "how to" for doing this job? I have tried all sorts of "thing-a-ma-bobs" to keep the door open, but I've had enough of those attempts that fail to keep the door open. Biggest concern is where to mount the strut on the door and on the frame and the length of stroke on the strut. Thanks, Woody Miller 09 Dynasty

One of our TV's will turn on once in a while when there is a power interruption, shore to gen, pedestal to gen or a power outage. Not always, most of the time it doesn't happen, but once in a while we come in and find the TV on. Doesn't happen enough to have made it up the list of things to do. Also this is a TV with ROKU on it, but the remote is always in a cabinet and no pets to step on if it were on the floor. Still have one "ghost" light that stays on at a low output over the drivers seat all the time, it has never shut off after installing an LED in the fixture, no other light has done this after conversion to LED, it will go to full illumination by turning the switch to "on" then returns to basically a night lite the rest of the time. Strange, but it's perfect to see around at night so it's lower on the to do list as well. Woody Miller

Excellent topic. Hadn't thought about the aux compressor. Another "thing" now on the list of things to do. Nice. Woody Miller

It could be that the wires/control were disconnected in the dash when they took the old camera out of service. My system had a control board (for the triggers) in the dash for the camera system. Is there a shield on the original wires, I can't tell from the picture. Woody Miller 09 Dynasty

You have options when deciding on a career. I've quit jobs for no reason at all more than once. Just sayin'. And now with mayor's calling white law enforcement officers "racists", see ya!! Skilled construction trades make more money and the mayor's don't spit on you. Woody Miller

I have coachnet. Don't like them. Of the times I called for help they pretty much have been more hassle than help. For towing, probably the best and that's why we keep their coverage. Customer service is terrible at best, at least it has been for every time I've dealt with them. Never needed a tow. But when needing the name/number of a mobile mechanic or tire shop, they come up with nothing. They ALWAYS want to tow. Gen not starting? Tow. Flat tire, a tow and a new tire. Muffler dropped, a tow. Every single time regardless of the help I needed, they come back with towing as the only solution. My last flat tire, just went flat and needed the bead reset, I needed a mobile tire shop. Coachnet once again wanted to tow, when I refused that as completely idiotic, they then went with a new tire, the flat one was brand new with less than 500 miles on it, from another state sometime the next day maybe. I found my own tire shop. Les Schwab of the Dalles, OR. which promptly ripped me off, charged two hours to re bead the tire with the air blaster, did not need to remove the tire, the shop was a couple miles away from where I was parked, and charged that amount, $240, without shame. Coachnet did pay half of the bill. I guess I was raised a little better back in the day. I admit I have no patience for idiots or lazy people. I do wonder, how did all the call centers and customer service jobs go to the idiots? Maybe a big job fair or something? Sorry, my a** is still burning from my last phone call with the customer service guy at Coachnet. For towing, they are the best, d*** the luck. A kind word of advise for Coachnet; take you call center folks out and show them a 40 or 45 footer and ask them how they would go about towing it and if that makes more sense then sending a mobile mechanic. Woody Miller 09 Dynasty

Another problem solved. Heat pumps work once all are chosen and nothing else. Thanks guys. Nothing better than a solution to a problem that didn't require a credit card. Woody Miller

OK, I'll give that I try, just setting all to heat pump and see what happens. Thanks, Woody Miller

Good timing on this post. My heat pumps, 3 of them, are not working. They all worked back at the house, of course. Currently in sunny southern CA for the winter so not a big deal. AH is working fine for heat if we need it. A/C's are working on all 3. This suggests to me a control issue. Have not gone into the schematics yet, so not sure of an interconnect permissive for all 3, but maybe so. Does anyone have first hand knowledge that there might be a "central" control that would not allow the 3 heat pumps to not work? Nothing on "heat pump" works, no fan, nothing. Before going up on the roof and shouting obscenities at the dog, am I thinking right about some sort of central control that is effecting the 3 heat pumps? Maybe the original 5 button DuoTherm thermostat??? Thanks, Woody Miller 09 Dynasty

Northwest supply in Coburg might have some, that's we get. Pricey $$$. Need to find a better source. Last one was around $30, a rip off. Woody Miller 09 Dynasty

Jump the salesman relay and check. It was the problem when we had that problem. A latching relay in the rear run box next to the big boy is where mine is located. Still have it jumped since we never use the salesman switch and they mounted that relay in a really tough spot to get to. Good luck. Woody Miller 09 Dynasty

I'll be watching if there is an easy fix. I have one light out on one of the air pressure gauges. Not a big deal, but if there is an easy way to get to and replace the light that would be great. Woody Miller 09 Dynasty

Poor connections most likely. My bad connection was in the dash where the splitter/electronics were located. Sometimes the connect was good, and then poor. Lousy old set up anyway to I pulled it all out and installed new monitor and cameras. Used the old cable with new connectors soldered on to the old cable. As said, TIE OFF THE CABLE BEFORE MESSING AT THE REAR CAP. I have no idea how you would get that cable back if it falls down. I put a zip tie on that cable attached to the wiring for the clearance lights on the cap, plus I'll put a second attachment string if I have to pull the cable back out to work on something.