Ivylog

Stacy^^^ you need to check for additional bracing on the front cap. Without these additional braces, breaking the windshield is a known problem, especially using auto leveling. Otherwise a 06 is a good rig.

Our units are not bad… it’s a temperature sensing issue, usually when there is only a slight difference in the set temperature and actual temperature. OP, when mine starts short cycling, I can stop mine from doing this by getting out of bed and lowering the temperature on the Tstat several degrees… now when it starts it usually keeps running and this is why messing with the remote temp sensor helps the issue.

Welcome to the club...same problem. Moving the remote temperature sensor probe so it’s not touching anything helped mine although it occasionally still short cycles. The Tstat is 12V so you have to pull a fuse to power it down... in a black plastic container often in the bathroom or next to the circuit breaker panels.

Yes, people are asking more $$ than what they paid and used asking prices are up probably 20% for the big Monaco DPs, but asking and getting are two different things. I see listings for 08 Navigators from way more to slightly less than what I paid 3 years ago for ours... $165K. Helped our daughter buy a nice 06 Navigator 45’ for $110K... most are $30K+ or more. Deals are out there but you have to act fast. Saw a 07 Navigator for $200K... good luck.

Yep, those ceiling decorations may look nice, but cleaning the foam filter is now a 20 minute job.

Rental companies sold off a bunch of vehicles last year to stay afloat. Supply and demand has raised prices to absurd levels... another consequence of shutting the economy down.

I’ll help take this refrigerator discussion further off track... I love my AquaHot.😎

Third picture is of the refrigerator you need to seriously considering using as it’s only an inch too high, actually only a 3/4 inch. Fortunately Executive rotated some of my pictures which saved them. I previously posted: DW wanted the large drawer saved under our NoCold in our 04 Dynasty. Hoped the 65” tall 21 Whirlpool would fit but had to lower the floor 1”. Link to my DIY install: https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/28435086/print/true.cfm First picture is with the floor cut out and supports around the perimeter an inch lower. Second picture is with the foam insulation installed, sealing off the area from the drawer below. The hardest part was taking an inch off of the front cross piece. Did most of it with a 7 inch Skill saw BUT, would not recommend doing it that way as it’s easy for the Skill saw to get away from you if you’re not careful.

You size the solar controller for how many amps the panels can supply, not the other way around. More than likely you would burn the 60A solar controller up with a 160+ amp alternator feeding it.

I have studied what’s best for Lithiums. I’m currently discharging the Lithiums down to 60% SOC as it will be a month before getting on the road. Also didn’t charge the cells up since buying them several months ago until this past week to check the operation of the 6 BMS that have led indicator lights for their status... indicates when it’s reached 14.6V and stopped the charging. I’m using the second charger strictly for topping the Lithium’s up and I can turn it off using the block heater switch... no float charging. During the winter while on FHU (or in long term storage) I’ll keep them at 50% SOC.

As Vito said ^^^ it’s normal for the light to come on when you have 2 charging sources.

I called Magnum (Sensata) about upgrading my ME-RC50 remote revision 1.6 to a version (2.9+ with custom settings) for Lithium... one that old cannot as supposedly it needs hardware changes. Not sure it’s worth $175 to buy a newer version as I’m topping the Lithium off with a separate PowMax charger plus the BMS stops the charging when the voltage gets to 14.6.

I did install install circuit breakers with manual on/off levers. I just found it strange that with the “salesman switch” the 12V to/from the inverter is always hot.

DW wanted the large drawer saved under our NoCold in our 04 Dynasty. Hoped the 65” tall 21 Whirlpool would fit but had to lower the floor 1”. Actually cut the floor out and replaced with 2” wide supports on either outside edges... foam insulation between to seal off the drawer below. Unfortunately some of the photos were not saved in my writreup: https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/28435086/print/true.cfm

Thanks Richard for info ^^^. The only time I turn the disconnects off is when working on the system. I hooked my solar 12V at the inverter thinking it was powered off having opened the disconnect ... fortunately no sparks. I didn’t replace my AGM house batteries, yet, and mounted the 600AH if Lithium inside. Used a 2 battery switch thinking I could switch between AGMs or Lithium into the inverter BUT, with the inverter hard wired, I’ll have to run power (charge) the AGMs.

Removing a side window is simple, remove the inside screws and only cost is new window sealing tape...$10. Slid the new refrigerator in off a forklift... wife and me.

I would look into a 21 Whirlpool wrs321sdh as it’s only 66.25” tall BUT it’s not counter depth. I had to remover the driver’s window and lower the bottom platform 1”.

While not exactly on subject, I just learned that my inverter/charger is NOT on the house battery disconnect switch. I can’t find that it’s on any switch.... it’s always connected to the house batteries. Could be because my house batteries are in front of the wet bay and the inverter is in the same bay. Anyone else have this situation? When adding my DIY 600AH of Lithium’s I used a B Sea 900E 2 battery switch as I didn’t replace the house AGM’s that still have some life left in them.

Got a good deal on 26 100AH Lithium cells for $900. Built two 300AH batteries with 6 BMS... $1200 total and probably 8 hours. We do some dry camping in cold weather and putting them outside in the battery compartment would require insulation and a heater plus the house AGMs still have more years in them...haven’t removed yet. Found a compartment with a AquaHot radiator/fan under the washer dryer in the BR with room for the 2 Lithium batteries. Built 2 wooden platforms to level the area and cut a rectangular hole in the floor for the wiring to the rear run box which is right behind.... short wire run to the battery banks. Added a 500A fuse and a battery switch ... off, 1, 2, 1&2. Already had a 100A charger that I’d previously mounted above the RRBox...will use it to finish charging the Lithium’s higher voltage. Instead of a dc-dc alternator limiter I’m mounting on the alternator, a switch that opens at 200 degree turning the alternator off. I already run the generator after dry camping before getting on the road. 1st picture is the batteries partially completed. 2nd picture is the 2 platforms the batteries rest on. 3 picture is batteries shoehorned into place.

Good luck getting your welder to chip in $$ on the repair. If the original item broke, the welded repair will too without adding something... in this case gussets. Fortunately my 08 has them. There is some good news... you made it, barely, to your destination and you are now closer to Josam’s than NC.

I did everything Dr4’s did in the post above plus a Amish cooling unit, finally replaced with a 21 Whirlpool through the driver’s window... BEST mod ever. Most residential refrigerator coils are on the bottom or the back and the Whirlpool was almost an exact fit...1/2” to tall. One battery will run it 20+ hours...draws 8 amps DC (40% of the time) measured before the 1000W PSW inverter I added and 1.2-1.3 KW/day or 16 cents.

OP, what are your axle weights with the bike on? If your hitch is the same as a 04 Dynasty or 08 Navigator (2 cross tubes forming a H, not a single cross tube forming a T) it was rated 15K/1500 on 09 Signatures if you didn’t raise the tag. I’ve grossly overloaded my hitch for 100+K miles. OP stumbled on this site with lots of info on a 06 Camelot 42’ with weight transfer info and axle loading: Copy and past the below https://community.fmca.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id= and then add 7289 after the = for all of the article. Even has some possible replacements for the throttle if yours has a oval plug with 6 contacts in a row.

“On average our fridge uses 1800 kilowatts per day.”...pretty sure it’s 1.8 KW/day. The 21 cuft Whirlpool I installed draws 8 amps (measured before the 1000W PSW inverter) and uses 1.2-1.3 KW/day with the ice maker turned off.

The connection in my fuel bay is for low pressure propane, not air. I connect my air hose to the quick connect for towing (supply air) under the front cap, passenger side. It is usually a type C male, pictured below and not that common... can’t buy at Harbor Freight.

Since the OP successfully changed out the breaker several times (yes, not knowing a GFI function raised some questions) but I think he’s still with us so he knows to turn the breaker off... OH wait, it won’t stay on so it’s off on it’s own. WARNING...OP, once the breaker doesn’t trip, BE SURE to turn it OFF, before hooking the outlet back up and going to another outlet downstream.