Bob Nodine

I don't know what your problem is but find it interesting that as you moved further south into warmer temps it quit shutting down. Logic says look at something that might be affected by ambient temperature. The fuel shut off Van mentions could be affected by the ambient temperature.

David, I understand your plight but have found that even through we know something our wife's request is not going to turn out as a positive endeavor life will be more pleasant if we just comply with her request. I see you have learned that also.🙂

Here is a post I made just yesterday on this very subject over on irv2: Ah, the third rail of motorhomes.The biggest problem with shocks is folks expectation of what they will do.THEY DO NOT IMPROVE HANDLING.Shocks are incorrectly named and should be called dampers because that is what they do. THEY DO NOT ABSORB SHOCK, in fact they can transmit shock from a wheel impact to the frame depending on how they are valued. If your coach is bouncing up and down for a prolonged period after hitting something like a bridge expansion joint then you need new shocks. The Monroe shocks will work fine for this but will only last about 15K miles before they need to be replaced again. If you go to a shock that is stiff you will reduce the so called Walmart roll when entering or exiting a driveway and they can help with buffeting side wind. The problem with stiff shocks is that they will transmit more road shock to the frame and will make the ride harsh. Its a trade off.If you have a newer coach with IFS on the front then you probably don't worry about ride on the front axle. We have a straight axle on the front and the ride can be very harsh if everything is not up to par. I have owned this coach for 13 years and have tried many things to improve the ride up front. We have tried a number of shocks. The original Monroes were shot when we purchased the coach with 12K miles on it. We replaced them with Koni FSD shocks at a significant cost but the improvement was significant. At about 75K the ride seemed to be going down hill so we sprang for the very expensive Custom Tuned Bilstein shock for the front. That was a huge mistake and I should have known it when putting them on because they were very stiff in both directions and not FSD shocks. This was just before our trip to Alaska and the roads in the Yukon would jar your teeth out. The first thing I did when we got back home was to replace the shocks with Monroe's and the ride was like heaven after the super stiff Bilstein's.I kept the Koni FDS shocks that I had removed from the front because they have a life time warranty to the original owner. About two months ago I decided to see if Koni would actually stand behind their warranty and followed the instructions for sending the shocks back for testing. To my surprise they sent me four new shocks and all it cost me was a one way shipping charge. Even though the coach was riding about as good as I would expect, last month I decided to try the new Koni's and swapped them for the Monroe's. The ride was slightly improved over the Monroe's so based on my experience with our coach I would recommend the Koni FSD shocks. I know others will disagree but that's OK.Just remember that shocks have absolutely no affect on straight line handling and if you are replacing shocks because your coach is wandering then you will be disappointed. In fact when the coach is traveling down a smooth road the shocks are not doing anything unless you get passed by a truck or buffeted by wind.

Does the fan run?

Having an engineer mentality I am all about having a backup, a plan B, carry some cash, put that heavy coat in the car in case you have to walk for help kind of guy. The wife and I will sometimes go wild and throw the blue print and the spread sheet out the window and go for a joy ride with no destination or plan in mind. That helps the wife cope with my "got to have a plan" attitude. Unless I had an exact to and from route that was half the distance of the current battery charge on a full electric vehicle I would be nervous. To me that makes an electric only vehicle useful for local travel only. When we travel we often leave the motorhome at a campground and drive the toad for as much as 200 miles. That makes even the Nissan Leaf a non starter in my thinking. We currently own a Ford CMax Hybrid that we first purchased to tow behind the motorhome but abandoned that plan when we discovered that the air conditioner would be a death trap for our dogs. If you leave the CMax on with the doors locked and the air conditioner on it must feather back because it does a terrible job of keeping the dogs cool. Just another thing to think about when you choose a toad. The CMax averages about 45 MPG but our little Chevy Sonic gas only now has 5500 miles on it and the average is 31.5 MPG. The CMax cost around $33k but the Sonic was less than $20K. Of course I know that most folks are not purchasing an electric vehicle to save money and if they are they will be lucky to break even. It is like planting a garden to save money. I did that twice. The first time was when I was in the Air Force living in Fort Walton Beach, FL. After getting my first water bill I let the garden die. The second time was here in Tennessee and after buying a tiller, fighting insects and varmints, and sweating for hours on end, I decided that a garden should be a hobby only and I was going to find another hobby.

Sorry Woody, our coaches are quite different and I can't be of further help. Maybe someone with an 06 Dynasty could help.

I would run for the hills because most of those so called RV & Boat Brokers are trying to scam you. Ask yourself what they want up front? Do they want your unit on their property? Do they need to hold your title? How are they going to pay you? You better hold on to everything and demand to see a wire transfer of money in your bank account before you give them even a dented hub cap. I would guess that any cashiers check you get will be a fraud.

Since you are living in the coach I would think just keeping the ice bin empty so the ice maker continues to fill the tray with water would keep the line from freezing. That assume the temps are only going down into the twenties. If the temps go in the low teens or below zero then you will need to winterize the line and keep a faucet open in the coach to keep other lines from freezing.

Woody, did you pull the cover for the main distribution panel. On our coach it is behind that panel. I replied to you on the other thread and posted a document with photos.

Yes, I just added a document with photos of what our EMS circuit board looks like. You have to remove that panel to see the circuit board. EMS Panel.pdf

Ours is located behind the panel for the main power distribution panel where the circuit breakers are located. There is a circuit board with some relays and a fuse that can be pulled and replaced to reset it. You can also move the wire for the washer/dryer shedding relay and place both wires in the same terminal and that will bypass the EMS. If the relay is bad it will allow the washer/dryer to work but it now will not be managed. The following document has some photos of what ours looks like. EMS Panel.pdf

Dang guys and gals, I did not mean to hit a nerve but guess I did. With the pandemic and the election all going at the same time there seems to be a lot of spent up frustration out there. Since I started this thread I guess it is ok for me to comment off topic. In my opinion, and with that and $2 you might be able to buy a cup of coffee - but no guarantees, I believe the future is nuclear power (fusion and fission). There is a place for all sources of energy but the only thing that comes close to replacing fossil fuel is nuclear power. I have worked in the industry since February 1977 and know the big road block to nuclear power is the public's fear. I started working in Oak Ridge, TN on the centrifuge uranium enrichment project and things were going like gang busters and the money was flowing like a river and then in March of 1979 the Three Mile Island accident happened. The US nuclear power industry had just about recovered from that when 32 years later in March 2011 Fukushima happened. We still have not come back from that. I am sad to say that currently there is no domestic uranium enrichment capability in the United States. We as a nation never seem to complete our goals in this area. The new modular generation of nuclear reactors require uranium enriched to almost 20 % called HALEU (High Assay Low Enriched Uranium) and currently the only source for fuel is to blend down uranium enriched for weapons. Most logically thinking folks know that solar and wind will never provide enough energy to replace fossil fuels but they help and provide a lot of good high tech jobs. The Lord knows we need more good paying jobs that can provide careers. It will be difficult and take a long time to wean us as a nation from fossil fuels. What worries me is that we will continue our consumption until the supply of crude oil is almost gone and that is a problem because there are many things we need and produce from crude oil beside gasoline and diesel fuel.

I pasted by a convenient store near our house yesterday and the price for regular gasoline was $1.859 but the price for diesel was $1.759. It has been over 15 years since I saw diesel selling for less than gasoline. Used to be the norm until I purchased a diesel truck to tow our 5th wheel then the price of diesel shot up. In 2007 we purchased our first motorhome when the market was at an all time high and then the bottom fell out of the RV market. Maybe I should warn the group before I make any purchasing decisions.🙂

Does your coach have an EMS (Energy Management System)? On our coach the washer/dryer is one the things that is shed by the EMS and it could have a bad relay or need to be reset by pulling the fuse and re-installing.

Woody, I have heard many times the same thing that the braided extensions are problematic and should be discarded. That said, we have had this coach for just over 13 years and put over 100K miles on it. When we purchased the coach it was one year old and had a leaking braided extension on one of the rear tiers. We replaced it and have continued to use the braided extensions for last 13 years with no problems.

Whee, thought I was get to old for this stuff.🙂

Rick, Table says 6020 lbs at 90 PSI for total of 12,040 lbs capacity on the front axle. Why would that not be sufficient for my Diplomat at 11,990 lbs?

Recent comments from two members here and a friend in Portland, Oregon have convinced me to change from the current Michelin 275/80R22.5 to the Toyo 295/80R22.5 M144 bus tire. The Toyo is 41.5 x 11.9 compared to the 275/80 at 40.1 x 11.0 so I don't think there will be a fit problem. The Toyo has a higher load rating at 7830 for single wheel use which is better than the Load Range H Michelin I am currently using. The three individuals I mentioned are very pleased with the Toyo and say the ride is better than the Michelin. Ride on the front axle is a big concern of mine and we liked the Michelins because we could run them at 90 PSI with a front axle weight of 11,990 lbs. I was apprehensive about moving away from the Michelin because I thought other tires would require a higher air pressure for the same load. I was wrong. We can run the Toyo at 90 PSI just like the Michelin. Ivylog made an interesting comment that I had not thought about before pertaining to the PSI requirement as it relates to the tire footprint. The Michelin's have softer sidewalls resulting in more square inches of road surface contact for the same inflation as competing tires. Guess that can make the PSI requirements versus load capacity misleading.

Circuit boards are in my wheel house and a problem that is often encountered with designs that have longevity is the inability to source the components after the design ages. The old circuit board above is mostly discrete, thru hole components that look to be over 20 years past their introduction to the market. A manufacturing house would not be able to obtain a reliable source to continue manufacturing that board design. The board at the bottom has a large percentage of surface mount components and looks to have either a microprocessor or a programmable logic device to provide control functions. I suspect the company was forced to up grade the board even through the old one worked just fine.

Tom, The pressure switch is in the pump and I do not have nor can find a schematic of the pump wiring. It is quite simple and the water pump fuse supplies 12 VDC directly to the pump. The pump returns current back thru the Intellitec controller which supplies the ground to the pump based on whether or not the FET in the controller is on or off. That FET can be controlled by multiple switches from various locations in the RV and they simply switch ground momentarily to the controller which toggles on-off. My pump is upgraded to the Aquajet RV 5503 and we have the 10 amp controller. I chose to try it without a Bosch relay and for two years now we have not had any issues or blown a fuse. Sometimes we take showers with the pump even through we are connected to campground water because the water pressure is higher with the pump. Water Pump Control.pdf

Glad to be of help Ray.😉 By the way, I accept no liability for any consequences that result from the use of the phrase "As usual Ray is correct".

Sorry to be late to this thread. As usual Ray is correct. I did post photos of the location of the latching relay and the snap disk. I will post them here. Keep in mind that I have a 2006 Diplomat but the 2008 most likely is the same. The snap disk and the latching relay are located in a ridiculously difficult place to access. You must remove the white panel to access them and the Monaco folks who made this decision must have been smoking some good stuff. I have modified my service bay and cut away the top of the white panel and upgraded the water pump and moved it up to the ceiling of the bay. I also added a surge tank. The latching relay is located high up in the bay on the frame rail. See the photos below.

Thanks Bob and Bill, sounds like the Toyo's are the way to go.

Bob, I don't want to hijack the thread but find your comment about the Toyo's having a better ride than the Michelins interesting. My front tires are at the 5 year mark and I am trying to decided what to do. I recently researched the popular brands including Toyo and all of them require a higher inflation to carry the same load than Michelin. My top priority is ride on the front and I have apprehension on changing to a brand other than Michelin on the front because of the higher inflation required. The cracking has not been an issue for us because the coach spends most of the time in the garage. When you say the Toyo had a better ride than the Michelins do you know what air pressure you were inflating the front tires to? Where you basing inflation on the front axle weight or just operating at the ubiquitous 100 PSI the dealers always inflate to. According to the Michelin inflation tables we can go as low as 85 PSI on the front and usually use 90 PSI. There is a tremendous difference in ride on our coach between 100 PSI and 90 PSI.

Steven, Over the years I have ordered a lot of stuff from McMaster-Carr in small quantities for personal use. You can use a credit card to pay. Here is a link 2-0 battery cable. I ordered cable, crimp connectors, and a crimping tool to fabricate new cables for our motorhome from them. https://www.mcmaster.com/standard-electrical-wire/wire-gauge~2-0/