Bob Nodine

What Richard says. I am not a fan of equalizing batteries and use the PowerPluse on the house batteries. My chassis batteries are AGM so they don't get any maintenance.

I use a 4 to 1 torque multiplier and a torque wrench set to 125 foot lbs but I like the gizmo Ivan has posted. Might just have to get one of those.

This is confusing to me. If you are plugged into 50 amp shore power you should not be using the inverter. The inverter should be in pass thru mode via the internal transfer switch. I am not sure which inverter you have but it sounds like it is a 2000 watt modified sine wave inverter with a single 30 amp input circuit from the main distribution panel. If that is the case there are two 20 amp push to reset circuit breakers on the front of the inverter. One of these is dedicated to the microwave and the other is suppling 90 % of the 110 VAC wall duplex outlets in your coach. If you are operating a 1500 watt electric heater on an outlet that is thru the inverter then the heater alone is drawing between 13 and 14 amps. That leaves very little margin for anything else in the RV that operates on 110 VAC. The toaster draws about the same as the electric heater and as soon as the toaster comes on while the heater is on the 20 amp breaker on the front of the inverter is going to trip. This is a very poor arrangement by Monaco and motivated me to install extra duplex outlets in the bath and hall area that can be plugged into the 20 amp circuit on the pedestal for operating heaters, etc. I would suggest that you plug a 110 VAC device such as a lamp into the outlets in the bedroom one at a time with the shore power off and the inverter on. You will soon find one that is not powered from the inverter and they are usually located near the headboard because an electric blanket should never be operated on the modified sine wave inverter that came in many coaches built in the early 2000's. Use an extension cord and operate the electric heater from that non inverter outlet and that should stop the tripping of the inverter circuit breaker when you operate the toaster.

I guess the wife and I must be odd but that does not surprise me because we are a little strange. One of the items on my check list is to dump the old ice and turn on the ice maker before we pull the coach out of the garage. The frig stays on 24/7 365 days a year and has only been powered off a few times since it was installed. We leave the inverter on 24/7 365 days a year also. Things like the satellite receiver and the microwave clock are always powered and the transitions between shore, inverter, and generator do not disturb them. We have never noticed any clumps of ice from the ice maker but I guess that is possible if the tray has just filled and a skin of ice has not yet formed on top of the water before the coach encounters some kind of stability event.

Modern residential refrigerators dissipate heat on each side and if you leave that insulation on the side of the enclosure it will slow the transfer of heat out of the refrigerator. I know the Samsung dissipates heat on the side because I operated ours in the garage before installing it in the coach. You could put your hands on the sides and feel the heat. You are correct in closing off all the vents for the old frig. The Samsung pulls air in from the bottom towards the back and the flow is up over the top and down each side. You need an air gap on each side and at the top. A residential frig is designed to operate with air inside a home so external air from outside the coach is not desirable.

The torque multiplier by itself may not be enough to get the bolts loos if a happy tire tech used an air wrench to tighten them. Go to Lowes or Home Depot and buy two sections of pipe to slide over the handles. Here is a photo of how I did it.

As others have already said, it is a priming issue and you need to get the jug above the pump.

Rick, Mike H purchased David Pratt's 2005 Exec with a DD60 and may have gotten schematics with the coach. I know David had a lot of documentation for his coach so give Mike a shout and see if he can help. Below is a link to Mike's profile. https://www.monacoers.org/profile/3930-mike-h/

This is a common problem and can happen if the inverter/charger or a solar system is charging at the same time the alternator is charging when the house and chassis batteries are connected together.

FRB not FBR stands for Front Run Bay and on most coaches is located in the closest outdoor compartment to the front cap on the driver's (roadside) of the coach. It is most often located beneath the window on the driver's left. It is usually shallow and contains wiring, circuit boards, relays, fuses, etc. The label Dennis is referring to may not be on the inside of the door. It depends on the coach model and on ours is not visible unless we remove a black plastic panel held in place by three nylon wingnuts. That label is on the back side of the cover. I just posted the location of a fuse to someone on another group and here is a photo of that label on our coach.

The motorhome is God's gift to crusty old men so they will not die of boredom while watching television and playing golf.😊

We once had a problem with the Traveler and could not get anyone to work on it. I finally determined that one of the cables inside the turret like Ivan is showing was bad. Ours was an older unit and had four cables, A,B,C, and D. One of them, can't remember which connects to the box under the turret like in Ivan's photo. That is how the dish sees the satellites and if it is bad the dish will hunt until it times out and then will store. If you do decide to take the turret apart be sure and pay close attention to how the key shown in the bottom of the photo above is placed in the slot. When I first put ours back together I did it wrong and had to take it back apart.

One other thing that will cause that is if the furnace output is blowing on or near the thermostat. I once purchased a new 5th wheel and took it back to the dealer several times because the furnace would continually short cycle. They replaced the thermostat and that did not fix it and they said there was nothing else they could do. One day I was sitting in the trailer and looked at the floor register sitting right under the thermostat and it finally hit me what the problem was. Purchased one of those floor registers that could be shut off and problem fixed. Needless to say I wrote the manufacture a letter informing them they need to pay attention to the location of the thermostat.

I have two of the old Sanicon's and added the plug so I can swap it out and repair and clean the other for a backup. I also did away with the outer box as it servers no real purpose. I added a relay and a switch in the service bay and a second momentary switch under the sink in the bath area for those times with the gray does not drain I can run the Sanicon without going outside.

So why can't we just reuse the V-Band flange we have?

Rick, David Pratt, the owner of the forum, owned a 2005 Exec with the Detroit engine for many years and is quite knowledgeable of that coach. Maybe he can shed some light on the issue.

This is just a guess on my part but I think before wide spread use of the CAN (Controller Area Network) bus in motorhomes the manufactures were reluctant to tap into the RPM signal from the ECM (Engine Control Module). It would require a dash instrument fitted with a pulse translation module designed for the particular ECM in use. It would also expose the manufacture to liabilities if a wiring error caused a fault in the ECM. After the CAN bus and dash instruments capable of interfacing to the protocol became available, tapping into the RPM from the ECM was practical. That may be why coaches like Van's have an ECM that gets it RPM information from a sensor on the engine and the dash gets it RPM signal from the alternator.

Jim, The blower continuing to run is a safety feature just in case there is propane present.

When dry camping this is often caused by low battery voltage because the blower does not produce enough air flow to complete the sail switch. The furnace will not ignite if the sail switch does not make. Start the generator and see if that helps.

Obviously not actual insurance as you could replace the whole drivetrain, engine, and transmission for that amount. They would make money on every customer. Real insurance projects profit based on odds. This is a sure thing for the company selling the policy as they have no risk.

No way would I pull into the West Knoxville Sam's Club fuel pumps with a 40 foot coach towing. Heck, I wouldn't pull into their pumps without the toad. Even towing our full size crew cab truck we can get around at the East Sam's Club. I heard it was Wayfair and some other company that was going to build two buildings where the old mall is. Amazon would be nice if that is the case. My oldest daughter has a degree in logistics and transportation and is currently employed in Wilmington, NC. She is considering moving back home and that might be a good place for her to get a job.

Chris, Are you running Yokohama 295/75R22.5 RY617 tires on the front? Are they load range H? Many of the Yokohama tires seem to have aggressive treads but this one looks like a bus tire. I want put load range G on the coach because I like to reduce the air pressure on the front for a better ride.

I am guessing that the shape of the pulse will be dependent on the alternator load. It is quite possible that the circuit that is triggering on that pulse is affected by the shape of the pulse causing a difference in the reading. I would call it a poor man's tach and prefer the Scangauge reading which is most likely from a Hall effect device somewhere on the engine.

Jim, We live 12 miles from that Sam's Club and it is programmed to the Home button on the GPS. We always fill the coach there before heading to the house. Bet you had to run your card twice because the limit is $100.

The cobbler's children have no shoes!😊