DavidL

Ok, next step is (while the vehicle is on the ground on the tires) have someone move the wheel back / forth while someone else observes where the slack is. This involves putting a hand on the greasy joint and feeling for play. And certainly visually inspecting to see what lags in the Left / Right movement. Ensure you instruct the person at the wheel to just go to the right until he /she feels resistance, and then back to the Left the same amount. This is with motor off. Tom, note, I asked for a definition of "Wander" many / most don't really understand the technical impact of that term. So best that they explain what they see / feel under what conditions. Most misdiagnosis is due to improper problem statement. (patent 6609050b2) And it doesn't make any difference on the chassis. Since we can't see play on a static picture, but can see OEM grade shocks on a rig that has miles and time, then the shocks are suspect and hugely impactful on overall handling (including "Wander" if the vehicle is skipping). High centered vehicles that "jostle about" (due to floating shocks) can "feel" like "Wander" even if the tires are going dead true down the road. Yes, I put a home made Watts link on my 36 gas bounder. Huge difference. Tags generally don't need it as there is much more resistance to side to side chassis movement than without the tag. EDIT: correction...I put really a PanHard bar not a Watts link on that...but to accomplish the same effect, just without the fitment complexity of a true Watts....(half a "watt"? 🙂 ) Your wealth of experience with the history of these coaches is a blessing to the group.

Diagnosis comes first. If there is steering play in the box, then look at all joints while moving wheel back / forth to find that play. Might be a Joint, not the box. Since the box has evidently been replaced, that is likely not the problem. Define wandering: You keep the wheel straight and the vehicle moves with the wind from passing trucks? Or RV moves with road undulations? Or you move the steering wheel and the RV keeps going straight? Do bumps affect the issue? The shocks look like they have been around as long as the RV...that's a wear item and good handling starts there. Check tire pressures since that doesn't cost anything. Ensure pressure is correct for the Axle weight as per the tire's spec chart.

https://rvforums.com/threads/hwh-leveling-fix.12836/ Here is the fix for the electric switches. If your touch membrane is cracked over the switch, that's indicative that the switch underneath might also have seen it's day.

The button under the plastic overlay might not be functioning. Easy fix if you know how to solder.

Oh, a detail...I don't see any jack stands holding up the chassis. Yes, we know the air bags aren't being worked on, and the shock doesn't hold up anything....but if one were to attempt to wack the shock bolt, and instead put a hole in the air line, then the RV starts feeling really heavy on one's chest... Your project is done and you lived to give us some great pics...but for the next person...support the chassis with proper rated jackstands on firm surface before getting underneath!

Well, on my Newmar, there is a switch...for just the reasons you speak of.

Step 1 is inspect and plan Step 2 is power wash everything Step 3 is take a break and let everything dry out Step 4 is do the repair The above makes it so much nicer to do just about every project. I hate gunk / dirt / grime dropping into my face and getting into the parts and hands. Hard to remove bolts: This is where having a torch and an air chisel come into hand. Since you know you are replacing the shock / stud, just wack them off. Keep some water around in case the shock eyelets decide to smoke. Looks like those air bags are real easy access too. That's one of my near future projects. I haven't taken a good look yet (haven't done step 1) but I suspect they won't be that easy to access as yours. Good to hear you get er done! Never say die!

Too late, now, but I use an air chisel to remove tiles. You can remove them as fast as you can move. I put a blanket over the project area and chisel underneath to keep the dust / dirt down from getting everywhere. The demo of the tile on my Newmar took about 10 minutes. Clean up took hours.

1. Do I have to adjust the slide rollers after replacing the flooring and how do I do that? Generally, yes you do need to adjust post flooring changes. The how I will leave up to Monaco experts that hopefully have a link to documentation. Each slide technology has their own methods. If you chosen flooring is similar in the carpet / backing compressed height, then adjustments might be minimal. You should strive to pick flooring that meets this critical dimension. 2. Do I have to worry about the slide rollers marking the new flooring? Yes, slide rollers, if not perfectly clean, will mark most new flooring. There are protective strips that can be used under each slide roller to reduce the wear and tear on the new flooring. Your choice of flooring material is also important. Vinyl plank flooring is one of the softer / less durable choices. The good news is it is also one of the thinner materials to should be a closer match to the compressed carpet thickness.

Meaning what is it not doing that you think it should be doing?

What's not working?

Do the obvious stuff first...if the coils are dirty, clean them.

If there was a freon leak, then the freon is gone and the system wouldn't work at all (won't freeze).

My power washer trigger finger is itching looking at those batteries.

You should wire a voltmeter to the starter wire and have a second person crank the motor. Ensure your clothes / body parts aren't any place that can get sucked in if the motor cranks / fires. The voltmeter should show almost full battery voltage. If it does, and the starter doesn't turn, then it's likely a bad starter. If low or no voltage, then it's indicative of a starter solenoid that is bad (check that you have full battery voltage to the heavy wire to the solenoid). Even if the solenoid is part of the starter assembly, it probably is available separately and would be a lot cheaper than buying the starter. Diagnose before shotgunning parts is way cheaper. On many starter solenoids, you can use a screwdriver to connect the battery positive to the start terminal (small terminal) to get the solenoid / starter to crank. And to ensure you have full voltage to the solenoid, you can also short the battery cable directly to the starter wire and the starter should immediately crank. If so, then the solenoid is bad. Note that you will see a good size spark as this is a high amperage bridge with the screwdriver. just quickly touch and remove. You can melt the terminal / screw if too long.

Possibly air in the system. Typically the highest part of the system (commonly but not always the radiator cap) needs to be 100% filled) Wondering if there is an air pocket that "fills" when the engine is running but leaves a void at the tank.

I would: Ensure that the tires are what was originally spec'd for the vehicle Ensure that the wheel has the proper offset Does the problem happen on both drivers and passenger side? If not, then possibly the axle was bolted / welded off center. Yes, a wheel spacer could help. But I would research the why is this happening before putting on a band aid. I assume this hasn't been the case over the years...something changed. Would be good to know what that is. Don't forget with a wheel spacer, the wheels will be further outboard towards the fender. Ensure you have clearance there for that. Don't drive much with how it is. It can be a safety hazard and certainly do much more damage if you get a blow out.

Don't know for sure, but wouldn't normal PEX work?

What is that yellow stuff? Looks like sprayfoam. Did you apply that or the prior owner?

Nice job!

Depends on him. Most learn on the project. If he looks at it as a hobby and the formal lessons are fun, then that sounds like a good past time.

I am assuming the yellow ring is just to protect the end of the hose. Did you already remove a clamp on that hose? or is it a swaged end? Is the fitting leaking where it is screwed in, or is the hose leaking to the fitting?

Those pins might need some heat to break them loose. If it were in my driveway, I would put a acetylene torch on the threaded side of the pin for a few seconds to near cherry red and then loosen / tighten / fully loosen the pin so it doesn't break.

Geees, good "catch". Good that it was able to find it's way into the filter where I assume it didn't completely stop the flow and overheat the trans.

The chain end links look like they just unscrew the pin to remove. Are you asking what is that filter with the drain? My guess is a fuel / water separator because it has a drain (drain to bleed off accumulated water) Either way, it looks old and should be replaced. Hopefully you can read a part number on it before removing or after removing. You likely also need to fill the new with fresh diesel before spinning it on. I would power wash the underbody before opening the system to reduce the chance of any dirt getting into the system. Looks like there is plenty of access without needing to remove the mud flap..but not sure what your other pictures are denoting.