TomV48

I had about 8 extra feet of Romex behind the frig and there was a spurious connector on it that when it failed was a bear to find. Made my Microwave dead. No idea why the extra footage rolled up and can't even recall the name of those nasty little connectors with the lever that comes down on the stripped tips of the Romex. I had to set a junction box and join the wires correctly in the box. Lots of luck with Phantom electric. You will find it and PLEASE,,, when you DO,,,,Let us all know what was the cause

I have decided against going RES FRIG, but still wonder when I hear these threads. Aren't there still RES FRIGs that vent heat up the back or do virtually all of them in take air and vent heat out the bottom front? I thought, that I saw some of the smaller Res Frigs and Apt size frigs, while we were last Frig shopping, that still had coils up the back which need to vent upwards? OH and to the original post. NICE CLEAN LOOKING FRIG INSTALL

My power up there is isolated with a CUT OFF to not work when the ignition is on. So if your engine was running that may be the sudden problem

As a 05 Ambassador guy too, I ask the same question. All I can think is maybe some seemingly benign a/c hook up is reversed. I'm thinking the only way your GFCI is in the AC loop might be the thermostat ? But I thought that was DC. You might, just for the heck of it go back and look at the point at which the motor is connected to the alternating current in the air conditioner and see if it could possibly have been reversed. With a DC would make things run backwards with an AC it shouldn't run backwards but it might just be creating a ground fault somewhere.

I'd need a hand or a ruler for scale to go there. I occasionally find "junk" sitting in front of the tire on my truck or automobile that someone seems to have put there to give me a flat or just to see if I crush it. They got me once with a jewelry sized pliers. Tire guy took it out of the tire and I still have it in my toolbox. Amazingly good hardened tool steel.

Pretty sure Square D is the brand. You shouldn't be any magic take a break her out go to the store or electrical supply and get a matching square D with a gfic on it. I haven't been doing any construction recently but square D was a pretty big brand there's a long back as I can remember.

Do you have a sub panel hidden somewhere. Pretty sure a 2007 coach is going to have the code required GFI or GFI s somewhere.

AND, to my surprise, our travel partners have a second breaker panel, as in a sub panel that seems (not mine so I haven't been too well oriented to it), but it seems to be the place all his inverter circuits come through. Okay I just checked in with him he has no GFCI outlets in his coach but he does have a GFI button on a breaker and his breaker box Not sure how bad it is when one of those goes south on you I know that we have our house that way but fortunately that breaker has never given me any trouble at the house.

I'm not sure I have ever seen anyone say this, as we always assume everyone knows that the most common GFCI's have visible buttons in the middle of an outlet, between the two plug sockets. I guess I offer that as, for instance, in our home the GFCI button is on an actual breaker in our main breaker panel and not an obvious button on the bathroom or kitchen outlet as is common. I guess for those who cannot find an actual GFCI outlet, either in the kitchen or bathroom or maybe on an outdoor outlet, YOU COULD CHECK IN THE BREAKER BOX FOR A BUTTON.

In our coach the outlet in the bathroom is the GFCI. It is the source from there to many, but not all of the outlets in the coach. One of our two 20 amp pop outs on the our inverter goes to the microwave and the other to the GFCI. If the GFCI circuit shorted out, I'm not sure how it makes both 20 amp pop out blow, but I do know that a bunch of our outlets do run direct off shore or Gen power, even when I bump the GFCI off while I work around it. I hope that analysis helps in your trouble shooting. Tom

Ted Tom Cherry is probably correct, as he usually is, but before mine failed completely, and before my LiFePo, I was getting a voltage loss across the latching relay, Salesman Switch. Made my lights dim when our variable speed water pump cycled. And the voltage drop was so significant that the water pump struggled to get up to shut off pressure. We Found really loose lug connections on the right terminal as I faced in to my ekec bay. During use, there was enough heat to burn your fingers so easy to find when we got to that point in tracing connections. A year or so later it started to act up again and with good connections up I was reading about a half to 3/4 of a Volt of loss across the whole relay and the whole thing was getting pretty warm. You might get warm on a continuous duty relay as normal but shouldn't have notable heat with a properly functioning latching relay. I first just jumpered it, but then started to miss the convenience and peace of mind of being able to kill the power when we leave during the day. All 12 v house power except the frig and the Magnum shut down with that switch. So I bought a new one. Held out for an OEM part which at the time was not on Amazon but I got it in a week or so from an rv parts dept of a dealer I found on line, Florida I think. Wish I could recall their name as they seemed to have a pretty good parts inventory

The guys who helped me, a lot, were if memory serves, discount solar. They are on North side of Main St, about the last such shop toward the east end of town

I have only a vague understanding of the very complicated systems of our coaches. I'm not even sure but what I'm getting redundant information. But on my cars I have an OBD scanner that reads all of the internal functions of the engine. Next best thing I found for the diesel is a scan gauge. And that puppy confuses me no end so I'm not even sure all of the things that it reads but if it reads any of the systems directly and your error light is an error, I suspect the scan gauge might read the correct data for you. And when I'm not poking around trying to read internal functions, just rolling along, I keep the display set on RPM, engine temperature, current mileage, and cumulative mileage since the engine started. Never bad to be able to look directly at those four items, if nothing else.

Wow that's better than the measured results we had with the furion 12 volt

No. Sorry, we love having a gas frig. Although if ours had not been replaced with the extended warranty I would have been tempted to go residential and just upgrade my inverter a little bit to handle it. By the time we got the new norcold 12:10 on back order, 7 to 8 months, the full price tag for the install and everything was close to $6500 I think. Not sure how much of that the warranty company paid to the dealer but was not an inexpensive replacement.. The brand new one is colossally good.

On some coaches the inverter powers the gas / elec frig. Ours has two outlets in the back. One powers the frig from only gen or shore hookup. The other is from the inverter and is intended to power the ice maker by inverter when off hookup/gen and frig on gas. One trip (season) our gas was dead and while waiting for the new frig, (7+ mo back order) I ran the frig off inverter, but that is not viable long term so we had to find hook ups at every camp. In rough terms, the four door Norcold pulls 4 amps of 120 v ac. But on the inverter, with average battery voltage above 13 vdc from our lifepo's the inverter was pulling an "extra" 41 amps. That worked ok when the engine was running because our DC TO DC charger gave us 40 amps, but off hookup with frig on inv, and our normal TV and Dish etc,. one overnight was barely sustainable even with our 600 amp battery bank. Makes me wonder The audacity of dealers and manufacturers that put a residential refrigerator in a coach or trailer with two batteries. Then even the new 12 volt furion refrigerator in my friend's new trailer required three batteries and 300 watts of solar at a sunny Beach camp out to sustain indefinitely.

California taxes the full price before trade in.

I gathered as much.

Dick a couple things you said confuse me. If gen or shore power passes current to an outlet, the inverter would just be the 120 v pass through. And circuits normally powered by the inverter get shore power. In other words, with shore power or gen running the power passes through the inverter. If power works on gen, but not on shore power, I would suspect the automatic transfer switch is not functioning. And on our rig only certain outlets run off inverter; it's the microwave and the loop of outlets off the GFCI The inverter runs off batteries when there no shore power, and passes current back to the batteries when shore power powers it. If shore power is on there should be no load on the inverter which makes it no surprise that it seemed to suddenly run for four hours. Also we have owned five absorption refrigerators and none could chill a cup of water in the freezer in 4 hours so don't be disturbed by that alone. Sounds to me like two probable problems, inverter not working correctly, and maybe transfer switch is not flipping from gen to shore power correctly.

AS A RULE. NEVER USE A TRADE IN. They need to make a profit twice. A few years ago, my friend bought a new MB Class C- for about $90k. Hated it first trip out. Too small. Flush glass windows that didn't let enough air in, even at the beach. Went back to THE "FRIEND" the salesman. With about 150 miles on coach. He graciously put her in an entry level Fleetwood class C (full street price then about $65k then) "and she only had to pay $10,000 more. And she still recommends the guy. And that place has a much better reputation than CW.

I'm not sure who in the RV industry handles what, especially tech, at a good price, but there is a multi brand dealer out in Quartzsite AZ, and they knew all the answers when I needed to upgrade my Magnum. If you are in this part of the world, they have fair prices and staff that seemed top notch to me. If you're thinking diy, I have ordered from Don Rowe inverters in Oregon a couple times. Their customer support is great. Their prices are competitive.

In cold weather my gas frig cools down much faster than in warm. I'd say 24 hrs in hot weather and about 12 hrs on cool days. I guess there is such a thing as too cold for absorption, but we don't see real cold here. I've never figured whether gas or electric cools fastest.

DITTO. But the glue on their velcro is not suitable for heat. I have to redo that, to keep it from sliding up over the defroster vent.

Well just because I ran AGM too cuz it was the higher setting but I swear I couldn't tell a difference between it and a gm1. No problem now I have my custom settings jacked right up to the lifepo batteries need

When I was limping along charging my lifepo batteries with the AGM setting I had trouble determining any difference between the two. When I finally upgraded my Magnum to the lithium generation I had to replace the motherboard inside the Magnum at about $200 and replace the control head on the wall and I now have custom settings as well as lithium presets but I still can't decipher any difference between AGM 1 and agm2 I didn't get anywhere trying to call Magnum but I was able to email them and I did get a reply telling me what I had to do with my particular unit including what to do to get the upgrade going and where to get the parts.