TomV48

TOM CHERRY I do not know about these Tech procedures THAT SAY TO take the wires off the device. The RENOGY "engineer" (and after talking to him at length, that title is iffy) also insisted that I needed to disconnect the wires from my DC to DC charger to clear error faults. But electrons do not know if the wire is attached or not. They just know conductivity of none and turning off the POWER SWITCH or In my case I have DC circuit breakers on both sides of the DC to DC which isolate the unit, works just fine. Are they just suggesting detaching the CABLES because they do not trust us to otherwise be smart enough to DISCONNECT THE POWER. Between my Magnum Inverter and the battery bank I have a BIG OLD RED KNOB THAT DISCONNECTS IT ALL. Are they assuming that we MIGHT not have that full OFF SWITCH?

If there is voltage getting to the WATCHDOG, IT SHOULD SHOW that VOLTAGE. BUT, if the coach is not taking any of that voltage, then there will be 0 Zero amps. Because nothing is flowing through. They say, voltage is the water pressure and amperage is how much water is flowing down the hose. So either, one of the output connections from the WatchDog has an open connections , or intermittent connection, OR some where in or out of the transfer switch is the culprit. Of course, there might be a similar , intermittent connection or open circuit inside the transfer switch. That could be repairable by you, or maybe not. I would first open it up and look for arcing, or any other sign of heat damage. Live and learn. In a pinch, with bad looking contactor points, I might be tempted as a temporary fix only, to sand on any bad looking contactor points, the same way you would clean ignition points in an older style distributor. I remember one car in a convoy of families going camping back in the 50's stalled/fouled out on a bad grade up to the mountains. My dad cleaned their points with my mom's Emory board (disposable nail file for you youngsters) and then set the gap with a match book cover. Evidently match book covers were 15 or 16 thousandths. That family car kept up the rest of the trip. Good luck sir.

Thanks to the contributors. This is great info for those who need it and for the future for us all probably.

Well if you hunt around under behind and near the cavity from the no cold you might find a loop from your inverter. BTW what inverter do you have? If you are planning long runs where you'll be living off the grid and off the generator then the operative word will be batteries and probably solar. Be sure you have enough DC current for the new frig. I built my lithium batteries from parts but at today's prices and availability you can easily put 400 amps of lithium batteries and probably 600 amps in the space formerly occupied by four golf cart batteries. If you do plan to install a separate inverter for the fridge I would suggest finding the most efficient one you can find and a good brand name as opposed to the dozen junkie ones you can get on Amazon. I have enjoyed working with Don Rowe inverters out of Oregon. Use something like a kill- a-watt meter and learn how much the new frig will use before you finalize your project plans. Remember to fuse or, I prefer BREAKER, on all battery hook ups. Study the victron Smart Shunt and use it to track battery use. So much to learn. Study, learn and enjoy. Good luck

Normally. (I say that because who knows what modifications have been made that would be unnormal),,, Normally, that would not be how it works. The choice of generator or shore power occurs where your power cord and generator lines go in to the transfer switch and come out as the feed to the entire coach. If you're Nocold had a ice maker they would normally be another outlet back there somewhere that is live on the inverter to make ice when you were running on gas. Inverters "normally" pass shore or genset power right through and shut down their inverter function and let's their outlets run on the shore power/generator and If you had no ice maker, that outlet probably isn't there

That looks like a single socketed outlet. If so the Romex may be looping to the next outlet. The secret in most of our rigs is two separate outlets for our Norcold frig. One is on inverter, for the ice maker. One is only on shore power or genset. That is the one for the AC side of the Gas/AC operation of our frig. When our gas side got too unsafe to use we ran by swopping the plugs. But know what you are doing. That frig pulled a bit over 4 amps AC but that is over 40 amps from the batteries to the inverter. The Norcold on AC ran continuously but the saving grace of a res/compressor frig is that it cycles on and off. I remember mom yelling SHUT THAT d*** FRIG DOOR, to save electricity. GOOD LUCK.

Ok, just for confirmation. Your HUGHES IS "BEFORE" the transfer switch, so it is not reading generator, or transfer switch output. Right?? Have you encountered the problem when on generator??

Not a Hughes user but volts, with no amps suggests to me,no load. I'd be looking on the coach side. If your Hughes is external, check it's out going side for voltage. If voltage,then follow it in to the coach. If none move back to pedestal I would still worry about an intermittent situation. A poor or intermittent contact some where up or down stream may mean a lot of resistance even when appearing to be connected means HEAT. A warm (poor) connection leads to heat, leads to fire. Good luck.

Upgraded from the original me2012? Did you do it? I was just wondering if you had a comparison between the old one and the new one. Obviously not. Magnum and Don Rowe inverters out of Oregon both say it's just a direct bolt-in replacement. Main reason I'm considering it is because my wife won't run the microwave oven on the old Magnum we have because "it makes it sound bad". And frankly square wave inverting is not the best thing for electric motors and many other electronic things.

Upgraded from the original me2012? Did you do it?

I have a full time 200 amp relay in my battery compartment that cross feeds chassis to house batteries. It activates from the boost button but also from an ignition 12 volt only from the IRD, ignition relay delay and comes on about 15 min after the engine starts, giving the chassis batteries a chance to recover. It probably would have been okay to charge my 600 amp lithium Bank directly from it but out of an abundance of caution I put in a 40 amp DC to DC Renogy. I took that IRD, 12 volt line and used it for the d+(if that's what it is called and I don't remember from when I installed it). I some times (often) get an error fault light. Renogy engineer had no solution so I have a breaker on both the chassis and coach batteries. Before we roll, I check. If there is an error/fault I shut both breakers off, turn em back on and all is well.

Is that 2810 the old black SQUARE WAVE or the newer (I would presume, upgraded) white Pure Sine? Is the fault you see, a code, a message, or just an idiot light? AC overload would have me looking for something off normal, down stream. Our inverter just runs two legs. One is the microwave and the other is the GFCI loop of out let's. Is one of the circuits breakers on the inverter output popped. Is be looking to see which output leg might be the problem PS asking if the 28 is the upgrade because I am looking for an excuse to upgrade our old black box with the white, pure sine and maybe upgrade to the 2800 from the factory 2000 watt.

I roll then twist a paper towel. Shape it to go from cap opening to expected fluid level. Poke it in. Pull it out. If wet hold it up to the outside to verify where that level is. Can't see through mine without an ex ray machine.

They are a bit stiff but boy the first set gave good service for 10 years. We bought it at about 8+ yrs and went right to our Hankook dealer. He pulled them off and inspected them. They were spotless. Nonetheless I shortly replaced the fronts. At ten years I replaced the rears. At around 30k miles they were still solid inside and out and so we now have a full new set. Our gvrw is 20000 rear and 13000 front. 95 psi rear and 115 front. After carefully weighing. I am safe at 110 front and 90-91 rear. And yup. They are still a bit stiff, but only 55% of the Michelin's my buddy mounted the same week. $600 per wheel versus $1,100 Oh yeah and the Michelins are only " 16 ply rated ".

I do not have one of those, but I had to re-solder the major contact strip in one for a friend. And yes it's only a pwm controller but doggone good piece of hardware because it does charge both battery Banks and the one I worked on had plenty of wire gauge coming into it, like 10ga wire. And going out of it to the batteries too. Real adequate for 30 amps. Wound up adding two 100 watt panels in parallel. Been several years now and still going strong.

My first Chevy was like that and I think my old Mercedes Benz was too. But the Benz had a different problem, arrissing from a lack of a heat shield between the turbo and the starter so when the turbo was getting old the surrounding area, ie solenoid on top of starter, suffered from the heat and failed.

And I too did what Brad did Even though mine were working they suck too much battery and I like to be off grid. I even ordered some switches that gave me single pole double throw replacements for the switch on the end of the housing. With that I was able to create a second 12 volt circuit and put a strip with just three little teeny LEDs in one of my lights for the bathroom and it is now our night light. The only problem I've had is that probably due to the heat where I park it, some of those strips have peeled up. I thought I had cleaned it well enough with alcohol but maybe not. So I took the fixture down and cemented them back into place with thick gel crazy glue and they haven't moved since.

We are in southern california. Shade Pro is apparently in Southern California. Their guy came to us did the measuring came back with a new acrylic slide toppers and installed them both in an hour. I was not upset about the price and the service was top-notch. Call them they probably have an agent up in that neck of the woods. 1 (800) 328-5100. We have only two slides and my invoice says $719 including California sales tax delivered and install just like the original acrylic material.

Wow Gary, I hope you are correct. This was scary reading until I saw your post!👍

SUPPLY CHAIN! Probably going to be worse when UPS goes on strike. I'll be fine as long as they don't take my Amazon driver away.

https://www.batteriesplus.com/productdetails/battery/semi-truck-coach-and-bus/sli8daft Duracell label, $249 with store pickup. Order on line and great discount

Me too. When the buggers got me it was pex in the wall between the bedroom and the shower. Good luck.

That is where my speaker wires terminate, above the driver's window. Thinking about a small Pyle tuner for about a hundred bucks from Amazon then maybe put a CD/DVD/blue Ray player in the hugh space behind my 32-in flat screen that used to be occupied by I guess a big old RCA or Sony vacuum tube TV. I pulled that cabinet apart when I mounted of the Samsung 32 inch up there and cut the cabinet back and upward several inches but it is still a huge void. My buddy has a 2003 Holiday Rambler imperial with an amazing multi-disc changer. He says they enjoy that while they're traveling but I'm not sure I want that much electronics when my wife can simply bluetooth her iPod over with all the music we need. That in dash car stereo is not 5.1 surround sound but it has two pretty good speakers right over our heads. And two more pairs on back through the coach.

I had a very similar disaster befall me at the Reagan library on a Sunday. I was only in a Ford explorer and I forget how but I found my way to a recommended shop after the auto club guy came put a little charge on the battery with his truck and jump started me. Truck driver recommended was in fact open and seem to do right by me. Cant complain on a Sunday. The next day on my way home I got an intermittent alternator light. I think I had that darn flashing light for a year or two until that alternator failed. Best explanation anybody could give me was crappy rebuilt alternator.

I like it DON but DW says I can only get a new TOAD if I get a 4X4. That Hybrid looks like it is only available as a TWO WHEEL DRIVE. Can you comment?