TomV48

At the risk of repeating myself. I say again I put an oscilloscope on my 2004 model 2000 watt Magnum and it is a perfectly square wave. While most things will tolerate a bad waveform, when you can hear the difference in the motor between shore power and inverter power. Good mechanical sense says that just can't be the best thing for a motor. I am passively curious to know how many out there have replaced the old Magnum with the newer pure sine wave Magnum. It seems to be available in 2000 watt or 2800 Watt just bolt-in compatible with the old unit. I have been tempted but my wife said she'll kill me if I spend $1,800 on something that isn't broken, yet.

Sadly, we coaches of the lower model have no AH

I think it requires shore power or generator. I keep saying we will stay somewhere cold enough to test it, but so far it's just theory.

I am not concerned Rick. But they say modified sine, I put an oscilloscope on the now 19 yr old Magnum, and it is flat out a near perfect square wave. That said,the microwave runs on it but in DW's defense the motor cries when it is on inverter. I had to run the fridge on elect during a three week trip, (after burner failure while waiting 7 months on a new fridge back order), and was not always on shore power sites. With that 40+ amp draw on a 100% duty cycle, if I had not had the 600 amps of LiFePo, 600 watt solar and a 40-40 DC charger, we would not have made it.

Behind my fridge there are two outlets. The inverter circuit is intended for the ice maker. While the non inverter outlet is intended for the heating element. In an emergency I have run the frig off the inverter, as it pulls only 4-5 amps for the 500-600 watt boiler heater. I would not mess with 1500 watts on that leg, but even the fridge boiler heater was pulling over 40 amps from the batteries which is not desirable long term, even on my big battery bank. My wife will not even run the microwave on the inverter as it is not pure sine and the she says, "I don't like the way it sounds on the inverter, and the generator needs to run once in a while anyway."

Wow. Ambitious undertaking. If it is too challenging you might look at switching the microwave outlet and using it for the two as it is not likely you can run both at the same time off the inverter legs without shore power. Sorry I must admit not being too familiar with the separate inverter sub panel. But I did find it easier to run flex conduit through the basement when running wiring for my solar install.

With no water in the tank, can't you just turn the pump off. In both of my travel trailers, with just the basic little SureFlo pump, the pump was inside the coach and the tank below the floor. Neither had and trouble pumping up from below or self priming. My coach pump is next to the tank, below the water line until the tank is down to the last 15 or 20 gallons, and it does not even have to self prime and works fone. You must be sucking air somewhere when the tank becomes less than full.

Sounds like the same features as the TST. I won't take my toad up to the corner without the tire pressure monitors on it. Plus the 6 tires on the rig.

Weldex makes a color direct replacement I THINK. Prior owner of our rig had upgraded to that but then said the color intensity was so minimal he is not sure it was worth it. Anyway, I think I saw a receipt and it said rear and both side cameras $1600 installed. Oh and I hate the slow switch over went it changes with the turn signals

I'm not aware of anything that grows, fungus wise, that would be pink, but for safety sake I think I would do a sanitizing flush of the entire system. Couple of quarts of bleach could make a big difference and that process is a must-do annually for me anyway.

OMG. Our 05 Ambassador does that too. All of a sudden began about a year ago at 80,000 miles and keeps getting more and more troublesome.

I defer to your wisdom. I haven't been since mid sixties so back when it was one lane each way through the res.

Been 55 yrs since I did it, but I seem to recall pretty good mountain between Roswell and Alamogordo. My default thought would be look Carlsbad to Alamogordo. Figure out what wrong--with the 82, if any thing. Is that a big RV Garmin wanting you to go the long way?

I think traditionally, controls in the dash, actuate a valve in the hot water line from the hot side of the radiator. In my car and trucks they are on the outside side of the dash/firewall. Usually it is a vacuum control activating a diaphragm that opens the valve. Sadly or gratefully, I have never had to look at ours in the DP.

You can just call CalTrans at 1 800-427-7623 speak the highway number and it will give you up to the minute road report on the requested road. Traffic feature on Google maps is sometimes more comprehensive. But also sometimes wrong completely.

Looks normal but then what do I know?

Oh heck yes. If you don't have them buy them. Ur TSTs have saved my bacon twice. One time it was less than 2 miles from home that I had a problem with my brakes dragging on my toe. That's the kind of thing that can catch the toad on fire and cause a real problem. I won't even take it down to the shop for service without the tire pressure monitors working on all 10 wheels. Like I said has saved our bacon twice.

The Watts link in front and cross bars in rear made our coach corner like a sports car and the tail wag is gone. Looking to put the cross bars on the front too. Just had Cary from Kaiser Brake & Alignment, in Eugene , tune up our alignment and inspect the king pins and other running gear. He was very caught up in wheeling around on test drives. Maybe the shortest wheel base in a pusher at 196 inches but our baby can corner. I gave him an opening to sell me shocks, but he passed on replacing the Bilsteins on there. After deliberately crossing some tracks and gutters he said it pretty well stops bouncing on the second bounce which is all you can hope for with our RR8R chassis. Kaiser in Eugene and Henderson's Lineup in Grants Pass seem to be the Gold Standard for undercarriage. Both were recommended to me by Source Engineering Inc. the guys who designed the specialty shocks for our rigs.

I stripped our back to factory default. That dumped all maps. Then in a three hour + process, I hooked it to a computer and downloaded only the newest map sets. With a clean install it is working better and smarter. Only time will tell if I cleaned it up enough.

Well it should be simple. Shunt is the only thing hooked to the Negative terminal of the battery and all negatives or grounds hook to the other side of the hunt. A simple buss bar can be added to give plenty of hook up points for Negatives.

Probably a diesel truck service would be more generally knowledgeable on air brakes

Then go bigger than 30 amp. In case you need to pump up the coach batteries with the engine, rather than the genset and inverter/charger, faster is better. Although,that said my inverter will charge at 100 amp and have it throttled back to 80 amps. So, that charges pretty handily but when I'm on the road from point A to point B if it's a short trip 30 amp is not going to top off the batteries where a 60 amp, might have a better chance

Well my travel partners have 1000 amps of LiFePo and 800 watts solar. They still use the factory charging cross over, four years now, with no problems YET. I installed a 40 amp DC to DC Renogy and sometimes wish I had done 60 Amp but otherwise seems to keep me topped off every where we go OH along with the 600 watts of solar on our roof . With your investment in Victron might as well go with their DC to DC. In for a dime in for a dollar or what ever.

Well I was just camped with two Beaver People who take their rigs back to new iteration of the old factory service center in Bend, OR. Maybe they can help you. Beaver Coach Sales and Service 62955 Boyd Acres Rd, Bend, OR 97701 (844) 243-3725

I thought that what you were describing is more in the neighborhood of toe in, and can't that be adjusted with tie rod ends? I might just be missing the point or too dumb to do alignment work I'm not sure which. I know having the timing marks aligned is your baseline and that's important but if the tie rods were out of sink on the old steering gear maybe they need to be adjusted into proper toe in for both Wheels with your wheel centered. I agree with the comment that maybe your angle iron (aluminum) method is not precise. Maybe you should have it on an alignment machine before you make any decisions. I have the blessing of having an alignment appointment with Kaiser alignment in Eugene later this month. Just talking to Cary I realized that he understood more about our suspension and our alignment than the other four alignment shops I've been to combined.