TomV48

I was probably not entirely clear. To the solenoid I'm talking about is the solenoid that allows the truck charging circuit or the truck batteries to jumper across and charge the house batteries. Not only did I inadvertently feedback 12 to the ignition trigger side of that coil, I can envision several ways and internal failure in that solenoid or other ignition charged points that could feed house or truck battery current over to the ignition and since they share a common ground the difference would be the same. Your ignition switch would no longer shut the engine down. So if there's nothing else that you changed recently then I would explore possible feedback loop through any 12 volt source that is on an ignition controlled circuit

Hi. Thank you. No it doesn't appear the wires were cut. Just disconnected and laying in the cupboard. Kind of unfamiliar looking connectors on the wires. Do you have any brand name or model on the combo system. So far other than spending too much money for residential componeythst may not fit the cabinet space, all I have found is a Pyle 5.1 receiver amp on Amazon for about $98 but would still need to squeeze a Blue Ray player in. So still looking. Gonna find some kind of audio out put to use to test and identify the leads and hopefully get to verify that the speakers are good. Any chance you have a model # or spec for the system/DVD? Thanks. Tom

Of course, that is an option, but the sound still comes from the very front. I would like to explore using what looks like a substantial investment in Built In Speakers first.

Going in to year four it is time to have good stereo TV sound in our 2005 HR Ambassador. We have evidence of a surround Sound speaker system in our coach. By that I mean a Sub Woofer in the cabinet under the dining table and five speakers in the ceiling; Front pair, Center Front and a Rear Pair There appears to be wiring from those speakers in the cabinet above the driver's side window, but no evidence of what they may have connected to. Now we also have three pairs of Auto Stereo type speakers which run just fine off the dash stereo which has been updated to a unit that lets DW bluetooth her music to the unit. There are two speakers above the cab area, two more roughly above the kitchen/dinette area and two more in the bedroom. They all work fine with reasonably good Auto Stereo sound. It is complete with an on off switch at DW's night stand, but of course no other control from the bedroom. What was originally connected to the Surround Sound speaker system? We use an over the dash 32 inch flat panel smart TV and I took out that big garage door opener class mount from the original HUGE TV and cut the cabinet back so you do not automatically hit your head on it coming and going, but the sound from the tiny TV speakers is not adequate for mere mortal hearing without turning it up until the speakers in the TV rattle. Any suggestions as to what was in there from NEW, what to put in NOW to utilize the Surround Sound speakers' potential and maybe even to incorporate a Blue Ray player? Thanks for any ideas. Tom

I have a 200 amp continuous duty cycle solenoid set up to activate from ignition power switched from the ignition relay delay. IRD. At one point while using that ird current source to activate my DC to DC Renogy controller I was back feeding 12VDC TO THAT IGNITION SOURCE LINE FROM THE IRD. Outcome was the ignition switch no longer stut off the engine. I quickly disconnected my back feeding lead and found a different way to wire it. The moral, look for something else you did that is back feeding power to the ignition that is not allowing the engine to run on.

I lost one of my two, four light old school tank monitors. Looked and looked. Tested and probed. Turned out the digital display plug in strip was ever so slightly dislodged.the eye missed it, but loosened and pressed back tight and bingo lights. Turns out even low current low voltage electrical connectors can suffer open circuit loose connection tiny corrosion and lose conductivity.

Nice. I'm not too far away, did you get that from the dealer there in Victorville? Amazing anything in this stinking state is that seemingly reasonable.

My theory, only anecdotally, is that such problems involve one or both GFCI's being wired/ interfaced wrong

The TECH on the "My RV Works, Inc." youtube page has recently posted a GREAT video explanation of how those things actually work and how to trouble shoot them. Evidently it is more than getting poop and paper dried on the sensors

Have you seen any sign of actual leaking YET? I would probably be wrong,,,,( I have learned most of what I know in life from trial and error----mostly error ) but absent being able to get a good installer to come over and help, that is what I might do. Maybe a hair dryer (heat gun might get too hot) to warm things up and make it pliable.

His voltage seemed a bit low and I wondered if that was just the state of charge of his battery due to it sitting and passively discharging a little. He was not too clear in the initial post. Just that ignition was on. Well ignition on with shall we say a battery that it less than fresh and fully charged could be the issue

My question is quite rudimentary. Is there a way to get those switches to release and come out from the top or do you have to pull the panel and pop them out from behind. I have a couple, one in particular, my cruise control switch, that get warm during extended use. That tells me probably poor contacts in the switch causing resistance but I really do not want to take that panel off console if I can avoid it. It has been cracked and damaged by people removing it previously and I don't want to compound the problem if I can avoid it.

I am one of those. Put my chair right where you want the smoke to go. If you want it changed, move my chair.

Not to forget checking the top of the wire cluster where you say water. Sound like a job for more caulking.

Well I have nothing directly to the problem, but low voltage indication often means resistance at a connection or fuse contact. My water pump, making wimpy noises, was the first I knew that I had a voltage problem. We found a high resistance at the contacts to my Salesman switch, which in our 2005 Ambassador is a Latching Relay so no load from the relay itself when activated. We found that the contacts on the side had tell tale heat and were found to have some bi-metal corrosion and were just flat NOT TIGHT so clean all the ring connectors and tighten them and bingo no more notable heat at the connections (they were hot enough to burn your fingers) and voltage back up at the water pump by over a volt and a half. I guess that in normal use the water pump is the highest amperage item so it showed up there first.

That is definitely the old school GO TO. And of course that is what my manual on our 05 AMB 34 shows, but they now make nice AGMs that will fit and for a long term investment, LiFePo's that will fit that four GC2 place. Plus, if I never have to water another battery it will still be too soon. They are even selling AGM/SLA batteries for most Automotive applications now too. There are probably four 12v AGMs out there that will fit the spot if GC2's in AGM are too hard to find. .

GOOD choice. I hated to think what grows in any exposed vessel of water, especially what grows in a machine. But I hope to never have to water an RV battery again. Save that store bought water for my C-PAP. Thank GOD for my AGM's and LiFePo's

"AGM's for starting are not my choice. AGM's are more persnickety and DO require a different profile than FLA. If you properly configured, and Magnum can tell you....the ME2012 for AGM, then it should be OK. The FLA's are actually MORE robust." I have contrary view. I was so tired of FLA batteries that I had started with one auxiliary AGM the Blue Beer Can one in our first trailer as a stand alone in the bedroom to power my C-PAP. I mixed FLA and AGM without a problem but as soon as the Blue Beer cans were full I pulled them off line. Now ten or twelve years later that little puppy still holds a charge like new. Same arrangement in our second trailer only TWO big Golf Cart batteries and the little Blue beer can as back up . When We got this DP in the first of 2020, it had all Agm's. Two big ones for the house and two Gr 31s for the chassis. They all worked fine but they were really old. I love the AGM. But I love my LiFePo's more. I put in LiFePo's for the house, but the Chassis Batteries were still scary old, like ten years old, so for peace of mind I decided that they needed replaced. I found that Three of the highest CCA rated, Optima, Beer Can batteries fit in almost to a tee, where the two big Group 31 Agms had been and with more CCA. I played with all sorts of really Expensive AGMs and found the most power for the money and square inches of battery tray available was the Optima I was in a quandary to know how to charge them all when off grid. House batteries charge using solar off grid and on hookup the Magnum, was also set to charge LiFePo. So I knocked out the boost relay/alternator cross feed to the house out. I figure if I have to I can use big jumper cables where some rely upon the boost button, I added a Renogy 40 amp DC-DC charger to the LiFePo's for the protection of the alternator and then strapped the Chassis batteries to them for cross charging/trickle charging, with a Big old diode to cause a one way only charge and a half volt drop to not over charge the AGM chassis batteries. Thinking about replacing the cross feed diode with a simple 10 amp solar charger that will think LiFePo voltage is a solar source and then be a four stage charger specific to AGM chassis batteries. 10 amp PWM solar charger is actually half what I paid for that big old clunky Diode, and it mounts to the bulkhead easier. That is so obvious but I never thought of it until I saw RV with Tito and he did it for his older Winnebago Gasser. Still half of all I know about RVs came from YouTube.

Pretty sure what I have is also the Aquajet 55 ARV. My documentation says it is a variable speed pump and should not require or be used with the pressure accumulator. Sometimes it seems to make a little annoying chirp as it brings the system back to shut off pressure but it definitely steps up performance if you open to faucets at the same time in order to prevent loss of pressure at one. I'm happier with it than I was with the single rate single flow pump I had in the Old Coach.

So I do not have a dog, but any time I park for any protracted period of time I release the air pressure. But yet I still feel a lot better with this thing on my emergency brake knob. Helps avoid accidents and it's one more layer of theft deterrent. https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/universal-fit-air-brake-truck-lock-single-knob-keyed-differently

I had about 8 extra feet of Romex behind the frig and there was a spurious connector on it that when it failed was a bear to find. Made my Microwave dead. No idea why the extra footage rolled up and can't even recall the name of those nasty little connectors with the lever that comes down on the stripped tips of the Romex. I had to set a junction box and join the wires correctly in the box. Lots of luck with Phantom electric. You will find it and PLEASE,,, when you DO,,,,Let us all know what was the cause

I have decided against going RES FRIG, but still wonder when I hear these threads. Aren't there still RES FRIGs that vent heat up the back or do virtually all of them in take air and vent heat out the bottom front? I thought, that I saw some of the smaller Res Frigs and Apt size frigs, while we were last Frig shopping, that still had coils up the back which need to vent upwards? OH and to the original post. NICE CLEAN LOOKING FRIG INSTALL

My power up there is isolated with a CUT OFF to not work when the ignition is on. So if your engine was running that may be the sudden problem

As a 05 Ambassador guy too, I ask the same question. All I can think is maybe some seemingly benign a/c hook up is reversed. I'm thinking the only way your GFCI is in the AC loop might be the thermostat ? But I thought that was DC. You might, just for the heck of it go back and look at the point at which the motor is connected to the alternating current in the air conditioner and see if it could possibly have been reversed. With a DC would make things run backwards with an AC it shouldn't run backwards but it might just be creating a ground fault somewhere.

I'd need a hand or a ruler for scale to go there. I occasionally find "junk" sitting in front of the tire on my truck or automobile that someone seems to have put there to give me a flat or just to see if I crush it. They got me once with a jewelry sized pliers. Tire guy took it out of the tire and I still have it in my toolbox. Amazingly good hardened tool steel.