TomV48

My two windshield blinds are different but sound similar in operation. I had similar sounding failure. Took in down and "bench tested" (ok dinette tested) with 12 volts. It acted the same. Was gonna order a new one until I found the price $400 ish and out of stock to boot. Disassembled carefully--- (tiny springs and washers-- and broken plastic.) The axle is about 1/8-in diameter more or less and steel. Dead ends into a molded plastic cup in the end piece. Of course it wasn't a solid hole, it was a built up plastic rim around "the hole or socket" for the shaft end, and the rim had shattered. The axle pulled awkwardly and worked intermittently a little bit and then finally locked up, like you describe. Probably when I broke the rest of the plastic pieces during use. I repaired it by reassembling the parts that were identifiable and fusing them together with JB Weld two-part plastic epoxy Then I cleaned the hole out where the axle went in, with the drill bit. Then a dab of Vaseline and reassembled. So far so good it's been over a year but I grit my teeth every time I use it, figuring the failure will reoccur probably. One of these days I'll learn to trust my repairs.

ADD Screwdriver pocket knife pliers eternabond tape and dicor

Ditto. My 05 Ambassador is not pocketed but covered by a removable molding.

2009 year model but manufacturer date was 2008

Do you per chance have a link to that thing.

I found LED ones that fit in there and use like darn near no watts

LOOKS nice up top. Be careful of those AC shrouds. Mine were 2005 and that color Leaned on them during solar install. Patched the cracks initially with Eternabond but every time you looked at them the cracked a little more.. Those guys get brittle after years in the sun even with paint on them for UV protection. Ours were the older penguins without vent holes on the sides. New ones from Amazon at about $162 each and repainted them with rattle cans from an auto paint store, a pretty good match, and now ours are pretty again

Thank you Tom, I know Mike, and have talked to Henderson's Lineup. I'm honing in on the problem. Tom

Thank you I'll be doing it in the here and now at today's prices and probably will not be going to the East Coast to get the install done. But if I can pick up the steering gear and the correct pitman arm I know there are a couple good shops in Oregon where Im going to be next month. Sounds like your pricing was very reasonable compared to what I've been conditioned to expect. Thank you sir

Okay not a great picture but there is the tire placard from 33,000 lb GVW 2005 Holiday Rambler ambassador for comparison

Can I persuade you to disclose what that adventure wound up costing? I am about to undertake it and it is way too heavy for me to handle. OR PM at TomVPratt@aol.com

I guess I'm just lucky. The fittings for my air conditioning are in the upper left-hand corner after I pull the slide out for my generator and I can reach them easily from a standing position. Or should I say upper passenger side of the opening when I pull my generator out. If you're having to pay somebody to do it shop for somebody that's very reasonable. Auto shops want you to pull into their Bay but a good mechanic can roll that epa freon handling unit out to you. Iit's not that difficult and it's fairly portable.

Mobile RV service did if for my prior owner when he had is all tuned up to sell. I have the service ticket. The guy purged, evacuated installed leak check and something around 3 lbs of R134. Charged him an arm and a leg. The service was done three years and 8 months ago. Year and a half later and I lost coolant down to where cooling was not great. Slapped on my auto gauges, pressures were a bit low. I added about 1 1/2 lbs. until pressures looked good enough. Cost me about $25 (California prices) and it has been fine since. Will check pressures before we hit the road next month. I carry a can with built in low side gauge in the rig. All seems well.

I have not been there, but Elite RV came highly recommend. But what I need is more on the line with what Henderson lineup and Kaiser brake and alignment do. 642 OR-99E, Harrisburg, OR 97446

Ditto. Please share the solution.

Yup I have one of those in my R REAR turn signal light. Seems to be a bulb issue so I cleaned the socket and the bulb not fixed. Changed bulb (the original works elsewhere, and has full continuity) New bulb worked first trip. Then next trip, put the toad on and no RR turn light on Coach. Works fine on TOAD, so WTH I rolled. First stop checked again and bingo RR turn signal works. I have learned to live with it. We never run after dark and during movement I watch the rear view mirrors and camera and DW looks out the window and I learned to live with it. So far no matter what I do it works about half the time.

Thank you Peter.

Well ours is a 2005 Ambassador 34 and it is called RR8R. RAISED RAIL 8 airbag REAR RADIATOR. Our travel partners is a 2003 36 ft, and very similar except they have a side radiator. So it would be like the RR8S but it's got a number more like what you're describing as your chassis number. So there's a difference but I don't know what it is.

Hey Gary Where are you located or better what shop are you in. And by all means let us know how it goes with them. We will be following behind you up the 5 in about 2 1/2 weeks and will be running up to Keizer, OR Elks before we go toward the beach. May be stopping off in either Grants Pass, Coburg or Eugene for some maintenance work. I figure it was made in Coburg so that area ought to have the places to fix her.

I am thinking I would let them know right away. One of their Dinosaur techs may not know how it was supposed to go. I always watch or question, everything any one does for me. Unless of course you want new and different problems after you pull out of there.

Well SIR's I go blind with JEALOUSY every time a see wide open rear doors on a side radiator coach. I wonder if mine would be that nice looking if I didn't have those big clumsy looking Radiators and Inter-cooler coils blocking my view not to mention my access to everything.

Well maybe it's as simple as you've gone on and off power and generator with high loads running and as a result have made the contacts in the transfer switch a little messy. I have never forgotten my dad with just an Emory board. Nothing's ever that easy but maybe it is this time and you can repair it. Good luck. Tom

So, JDCrow, I reread your post and come back to this. Does the house work fine on generator or no. I see what looks like open screws where the connections go from the watchdog to the transfer switch so you have that point at which to check AC volts. If you're on a 50 amp pedestal you should have 240 volts between leg one and leg two and you should have 120 volts between leg 1 and common leg two and common also; and probably even leg one and leg two to ground will show you 120. If everything is good at that point and the generator is working on all systems then the problem is in the transfer switch on the shore power contact side. If you're not getting good service with the generator either then it may still be the transfer switch but on both the shore power / watchdog side and the generator side. That comes down to what I said in an earlier post about inspecting the contactors inside the transfer switch. I didn't emphasize it before let me emphasize it now be d*** careful in there. Sometimes you have to use a voltmeter probe with things hot and that can get dangerous. Before you mess around with the inverter conversion and all those connectors other than just to make sure everything is connected tightly, not showing any burning, color distortion from heat, or evidence of arcing, be sure you're getting power through the transfer switch the way it should be.

Don My power steering reservoir on rear radiator 2005 Ambassador 34 is right rear corner near my oil dip stick.

NO DOUBT. The Monaco/Watts link on the front of our 2005 and the cross bar links in the back have saved my will to RV. These days I bow toward Lancaster, CA and say a thank you to Mike Hughes. Still working toward the TRW but not a bunch of shops are itching to be responsible to do that for me. Had a nice chat with Kaiser Alignment in Eugene and he is looking to see what he has in the way of parts needed and my local shop, Colton Truck Terminal, Colton, CA, will do it for me but they prefer that I find the correct TRW gear and Pitman Arm then have them R and R the job. Working on that right now unless Kaiser comes up with a firm plan.