Romeo84

You said you read the codes through your ecm or scan gauge. Did u check the transmission selector for trouble codes?

Literally was researching this topic this week. Amazing write up and explanation. Probably going to change mine out soon now. Have an 01 with the ssi so ya better to do it now. Just yo be clear I read it right the old alternator will work with the new system right? Also how do u know which wires to hook up did it come with instructions?? Any chance u can overlay from your pic as to which wire went where? I have the exact same rear box. Again awesome job and thanks!!

Omg thia makes me so happy! Thank you so much. I literally almost bought this yesterday. Bummer I thought it was a free pass..

I have a 200 signature. Going to see it in the next couple days. I'll remove that panel and snap a pic of everything. I had it off once b4 chasing a short. Super easy. But like who just cuts wires like that!!!! Would of loved to see his remodel job.

I'll start, not that bad but we broke down due to a clogged fuel filter. Coasted into a loves truck stop that had a sevice bay. Which was completely useless. Had to unload the car and drive to a napa 30 minutes away to get the right filter which in turn was not the clogged filter. Was my racor 300 200 prefilter. All in all we spent the night at a truck stop and then made it home. 1 day about $70 ... so far

Ya no problem when u get back is awesome

When I was changing my air dryer out I took the drain plug off to see if it was dirty and just for kicks.. Mind you the air dryer was off the truck and all the tanks were drained before removing and that plug shot out of the drain like a rocket. So that drain area must hold at least some air pressure even after draining the tanks.

Legit just went through this if it's the old Haldex 33100 I received a faulty dryer as Well… To start take the control line or unloader line off your air dryer to see if there is coming out of it that will give you almost a clear indication as to why you are not building or pressure. Simple push fitting use a open ended wrench to push in and pull the small airline out.. Just guessing but with the motor running you probly will have air coming out of that control line.. I'm just finishing up replacing my entire air dryer governor and compressor head. . The defective unit I received add a badd Turbo valve internally.

A while back a member posted they had a few extra Racor fuel filters. If that was you hit me up I'm in need of a couple.

Lol but think how cool they would be.

I see you're trying to convince me To put them on.. lol

Like I know they may not even fit or would be completely unnecessary.... but a super single on the tag axle would be freaking cool!

Completely agree. Usually the dpf injectors go out which is a simple $1500 but man when u start getting the reduced power mode. It's such bs. Like how is it safe to allow you to have less power going down the interstate. Climbing some big hills and it goes into reduced power mode.

The problem is finding a shop that still has an egr delete code. Tricking the ecm is impossible without the delete code. EGR removal isn't that bad or expensive. Also you kinda have to have a good shop that trusts you. Not the other way around. If you are around Chicago I have 2 for you that can.

Cool man. No biggie I'm just replacing the compressor head to be safe. Comes as 1 unit. Unloader valve preinstalled.

Mine is on the left .. driver side midway up the motor and midway forward on it. Super ex to change. Driving all that coolant...lol check your air dryer filter. My 2000 signature imploded all the white residue and now I'm changing air dryer filter governor and somehow my unloader valve is failing in the compressor.

2001 signature Cummings ism M11 500hp So to make a really long story short I will try to cut out the fat. A couple weeks ago my air dryer safety blow off valve failed. After replacing the valve the purge valve leaked constantIy so I decided since it's a 20 year old Midland haldex DA33100 X air dryer that I would replace it. I received the new unit and installed It pretty easily. After starting the motor and getting the air compressor running I constantly leak air through the control line AKA governor line AKA unloader line. Would not build any pressure past 10 pounds after loads of research and Bench testing the new unit I finally figured out it was a defective re man air dryer.. Moving forward I completely refurbish the original with all bran new parts and some solid cleaning. HHere's where it gets good. AAfter starting the unit to build pressure no leaks and everything was working as it should. After emptying some air out to make sure it would rebuild air pressure I found that the air compressor would no longer cut in. Figuring the governor was badd I replaced that is well to no prevail. If I remove the control line to the air dryer the governor will cut in and will build air pressure. No airflow comes out of the control line or into the air dryer but for some reason.... I have air coming into the unloader line at the governor.. My question to all U Experts is it possible the unloader valve in the compressor is badd and leaking air into the governor and sending it to the air dryer.. The governor is directly mounted To the air compressor with in open Port that connects the 2. The unloader line on the governor goes directly to the air dryer. How in the heck am I getting air In the unloader line... Good luck guys banks if anybody responds.

I follow a lot of people's responses on here even if it has nothing to do with my year or model. Vito and dr film are some knowledgeable folks. Thanks for taking the time in spreading your wisdom ... Sorry for the detour on the original post.

I have a 2000 signature cummings m11, I thought older ones like mine had both that wax controller was primary and electric controller was the fail safe. Thought I read that, any insight?

Lol figured. Thanks guys

Sorry that I didn't get back to everyone in these post excellent information from everyone. I did just plug the hole using a brass fitting I had and made it to a local hardware store which none of them had a relief valve In stock. Made it the rest of the trip with the plug in place.. Keeping an eye on the pressure gauge to making sure I never had an overpressurization.. Brings me to the next issue . a new filter kit And a new purge valve repair kit will run about 170 to $180... From what I can see you can buy a whole brand new air dryer for $250. Would I be Mistaken by just Purchasing the whole new unit?? Thoughts?

Hey guys straight to it 2000 monaco signature m11. Stopped for fuel and wouldn't build air. Was leaking out the air dryer fitting see picture. Looks like it is a purge or blow off valve. No one has one in stock.. can I just cap this fitting off for the rest of the ride? Stranded..

Awww man legit laughed. What a great post!

Ya trucks use to have a Alcoholic Evaporater. Lol on the DOT exam it's one of the questions ... answer was to keep it full. I need to fix my onboard compressor and was kicking this idea around as well. Was wondering if you just added a dryer that connects b4 filling tanks if that would be ok... like 1 from harbor freight.

Totally went back through and found it. Appreciate all the feedback. Probably can take this down now. Thanks everyone Ryan