timaz996

After rereading your post, it sounds like your fan is still working so my guess is the squirrel cage may be just full of debris. Mine was full of all kinds of insulation coming from inside the ducting.

I’m sorry to say there is no easier way than taking the dash apart. I did a post a couple years ago on IRV2 forum, showing how mine came apart. But as everyone says these things are snowflakes as none of the two are the same and my unit was built in January 2000. Just do a search on that form under Timaz posts. Unless they change things, the blower motor should come from a late 70s to early 80s Chevy pick up or van. They are easy to find out almost any chain auto parts store.

Yep, I get it but how they should be mounted and their cost is why I went with Renogy. It works well. the Renogy doesn't display anything. I just look at my BMV-712.

Glad to see you here Mike. Both forums are a wealth of information.

I use a shunt and a Renogy DC to DC charger (40 amp). The wiring for the Renogy charger pulls from your chassis battery when it's being charged and if you wire it and everything else through the shunt there is no difference. I went with the Renogy because they have a 40 and a 60 amp version. The 40 amp can pull as much as 60 amps when charging so keep that in mind when sizing for your alt. You can mount it laying flat because it has a cooling fan. The Victron is only 30amps and has to be mounted vertical because of the heat sink fins. I have used my 40amp for over two years and happy with it.

There are a lot of threads about lift pumps on here and irv2 forum. After I lost my injection pump ($6500) I bypassed my lift pump with the FASS pump/filter setup. If your lift pump is leaking your injection pump is sucking air. (very bad) Look up FASS on the forums or youtube. My lift pump never leaked but when you pull fuel through 35' of line you are inducing air in the fuel. I had plans of doing the FASS before I lost my injection pump but waited too long.

I don't know if this will help but here are three pictures I took before replacing my front A/C unit two years ago. And a Dometic wiring diagram.

I put a cup of water down the washer line after I dump the gray tank because it sometimes will suck the P trap dry dumping.

And some coaches including mine the fluorescent lights seem to cause a lot of electrical noise in the system. Not noise you can hear but interference. I had to put stereo filters on each one of my air conditioners to keep the lights from making them short cycle. That is the stereo filter goes on the positive line going to your AC unit on the 12 outside. The instructions that come with it will be very clear.

This sticker is on my battery compartment door.

On my way back down to Arizona. I went to Shoshone Falls, but it was closed because they were removing muscles. I felt sorry for a German couple that had shipped their camper van here for the reason of seeing the falls. I full-time, so I will just go back there again most likely in May and hopefully have better luck.

I went there off and on June through August of this year and way too many people for my liking. It is a beautiful place. Thank you for the pictures.

I put the same tires on my coats last March. And I still get the same mileage as anywhere from 7 1/2 to 9 miles per gallon at 60 miles an hour. I would wait and do a true mileage check by topping off the tank to start with, and topping it off again to finish.

If you set up the BMV 712 when the batteries were truly at 100% it is measuring input and output amps and keeping track. That is the most accurate way to know what the state of charge is on your batteries. Your inverter is measuring voltage and as your batteries rest with no load the voltage will come up but does not coincide With the actual state of charge. So believe the BMV 712 as it is accurate no matter what the load is on the batteries.

I had my CAC replaced in 2017 and had to do it again last year. (last year was a new core with my tanks) and I had them mount it with 1/8" rubber in between the CAC and metal mounts this time. I also try to limit my boost to 30psi on long climbs.

I painted mine with Rustoleum deck paint like others. no problem painting over Dicor.

I went with Matt Miller at Weller Truck MI 616-724-3762 mamiller@wellertruck.com

There is a large nut that locks an allen head screw on the bottom of each arm under the slideout. Loosen the nut and adjust the allen head screw. I can't remember which direction but those screws adjust the top in/out.

I will be taking the cover off the awning motor tomorrow to see if I have a short in the wiring. I think I do. Everything is really tight under the cover.

Do you leave the fan setting on auto? If I do not leave my fan setting on auto, the AC fan will come on even when the Aqua Hot engages for heat.

I have the 100-02 thanks

Thanks for everyone’s replies. I won’t be able to confirm it’s just the overflow tube until late Friday or Saturday because it is raining here in Island Park, Idaho until then. Yes, it has field the recovery tank to within about a couple inches of the top and has stopped. So I am hopeful that it is only a split on the rubber tube that goes to the nipple under the radiator cap. This has happened to me once before, so I guess I need to replace that clear rubber tube altogether.

Update, I think it’s the return tube right at the radiator cap on the top because I noticed it dripping. My theory is it’s putting antifreeze back into the recovery tank but can’t create a vacuum to pull it back out. So I’m going to detach it cut a little bit off the end and put it back on to see what happens. Yes I do have a 100 series unit.

What would cause my Aqua Hot recovery tank to fill up? Weak radiator cap? Or could my Aqua Hot have a leak and my water pressure forcing antifreeze back into the recovery tank?

An isolated DC to DC charger or not isolated DC to DC charger will make no difference if your shunt is wired correctly. The shunt will still measure everything going in the batteries and coming out. I went with the Renogy model because it was 40 A and a very easy wiring job because it just pulls current from the chassis battery while your alternator is charging it and only when the alternator is charging it.