Rikadoo

So on Ford AC you can buy an replace pieces individually or all together. It sounds like the field coil is the culpret, i would recomend replacing all 3 pieces field coil, pully, and the clutch. Only cause if there was a update to one or all three pieces it may not be a good fit with your oldder unit. Before going any further i would first verify your compressor is not locked up. To do this WITH THE ENGINE OFF try turning the clutch “center of the 3 pieces” several rotations in the direction it normally turns, if it fails to rotate then its possable its locked up, which is a whole nother story. So if it does rotate then i would continue on getting the 3 Amigos as stated above, having rebuild several Ford compressors while your getting the parts you might also order if available a shim kit for the clutch, as not all clutches are alike, an that the “air gap” will need setting (which you can measure the old one before you disassemble or research the spec) and adjust the new set accordingly. It goes without saying to little airgap an the compressor will run without electrical input an too wide a gap it will never engauge with electrical input.

Hey Tim, im the same when it comes to similar things, however have you tried Crutchfields? They have people you can talk to that “speak” that kind of stuff…

Nick, Im so sorry to hear about your little buddie, im hoping the kemo as tough as it is can give your furry friend some relief. Few months ago Roxi our little dachshund gave us a scare, we both thought it was curtains for the little critter….after all shes in that age zone… Luckily after the vet took her share of my wallet within a couple days our little hootie perked up an has been back doin the doggie dance whenever we have food in our hands.🐕 Good luck pal

Susan / Bruce…long time ago my mecanical knowalge was 2 years in auto shop while 4 years as gas station mechanic, 8 years air force fleet mechanic when i got out i enrolled in A diesel automotive class that was 15 months long an well over what his class cost. I allready had “hands on” for several years Now what I wanted was formal traing for what i didnt know about HOW, something works,AND how to test properly. You dont have to sell me, i get it!!! When i put my hands on something, they seemed to know how to instinctively disassemble, an repair, i didnt seemed to have a edge to know how to test items. So now there is a better connect in knowing, understanding, inspection, as well as repair. Hes got to do it for himself, he probly doesnt “need it”, but it will round him out! And im guessing he wants it like i did cause my curious mind wanted it. If you can afford it, i say go for it, cause you will forever be second guessing some repairs in your head an the knowledge will make him more confident.

Hey so does it have a manual transmission? What size engine?

It was, i did… its for the Banks Stinger kit

The muffler i bought was the Areo 3030XL, i live in the easy bay in ca, so i had Steve from West Coast mufflers install it. He will do motorhomes on Saturdays only. as for the old muffler it was leaking an when he pulled it off it had something loose inside, an call me nuts but i can swear the motorhome is smoother to accelerate an the engine runs smother🤪

I discovered that i first try to get mostly level using the levelmate, drop the pressure out the bags, then fine tune my level then put out my slides, an recheck the level. However if there is a non level spot i put out my leveling blocks drive up on them to get it closer to level then compleat the sequence

With the adding of anti-sieze go one more step and run a tap in all the holes, then use a air hose to blow out the residue. Also in regaurds to the exhaust leak have you concidered there may be a restriction forming in the muffler causing pressure lookin for a way out. The new muffler is a straight thru design, its alot quieter than i thought it would be.

Heater hose, when i did my cooling system repairs i decided that for the most part the rubber hoses looked pretty good (80k miles) so i only cut out the hoses attached to the engine, about 3 feet on each (pressure / suction side) and installed silicone hose with the special full circuil clamps then i used 2 ball valves to join the new to the old hoses. The hoses that were attached to the engine were the worst looking of all, that way in case of a problem i could close them off an continue along my way.

So for me when the back of my coach was repaired🤦‍♂️the shop doing the work removed the water heater cover and had it sent out for a paint match. When it was all done i could see NO difference with the work they had done… Workmanship yes, color match NO.

Well Rick the reason for my decription was not to offend, at all! Instead my reasoning was to say that EVERYONE on this rock that we live on that has purchased a RV knows wither its a DIY project or take it to the shop… your gonna be spending $$$ and that includes the fithly rich that travel like the rest of only dream about, or the poor slobs like me who sometimes only get to take it out once or twice a year… MAYBE! So let me clairify when i said i call BS ON THE COST, that statement came from TWO places in my mind, the first is from the safety aspect, in that as a wobbly wheel creates worn componits, that knowledge come from the 10 years of working on OTR truck an trailers, that fighting with trying to figure out if the problem came from a problem tire OR a out of balance rotating mass like a brake drum which when it comes to SPENDING $$$ you should of seen what we used to spend trying to save the tires from having to be thrown AWAY from there irregular wear. Then the second issue is the cost of replacing the tires due to “ its only a balance” problem for those who dont understand a regular automobile NEVER see’s these problem due to the wieght of there rotating mass, just compare to the massive wieght difference of that of OUR rvs suspension. Its funny how the novice can look at there Rvs suspension with that of a deer looking at a set of headlights, whear as someone who is trying solve a problem looks at it from a challange in how to solve the problem. An frankly i would have givin my Left nut had i been the one to invent the centermatics, cause if i had i would have been one of the filth rich paying to have MY coach repaired😎 To all you on this blog who contribute to our being able to learn about and fix our “toys” i want to say thank you, this community is AWSOME and the knowledge base that we collectively have is truly essential to keeping these rigs on the road always looking for our happy travels wither its your daily driver or for the guys who only gets to use it once or twice a year…

So a few months ago I decided I wanted an auto generator start system for my coach, I decided on the unit made by and for Cummins, having read over the instructions it seemed pretty straight forward. the module comes with a harness that connects directly to the genny. It waa supposed to be plug and play however it had issues, if I decided to start it manually I went on the APP and commanded it to start, the process was like when I performed that operation with the switch, first the fuel pump and gloves-plugs, then the starter, however when it got to the part of cranking the engine over it would make one revolution then stop and the APP would reboot. usually the second try worked out great, it would start right up. When on auto it was a crapshoot, more often than not it would start however there were times it too would fail. This was shaping up as not being able to rely on the system. Calling customer support, he had me check wires, fuses, get closer to the module with the phone, he suspected weak batteries so he had me test the voltage while cranking the engine, 10 .6 volts when cranking, the engine cranked over fine and always started. I measure the battery voltage at the batteries while cranking 126. ish volts. the decision was the batteries were weak and I should consider a new set. The layout on my coach is the batteries are at least30 ish feet from the genny so im thinking voltage drop, and when I installed the module I have it in the proximity of the genny, I had made the connections to the module up front utilizing both power tap sources for battery power of both sets of batteries (coach & chassis). So seeing that the module was dropping out due to lack of operating voltage I decided to remove them from being connect up front. so I made a 3 wire harness that now runs from up front by the genny down the frame and heads to the battery box, I used 22 gauge wire. Now im able to make the start command and it works perfectly. I find sometimes no matter how simple something is that is still needs tweaking.

It states that not only dou you lube the pins, your also supposed to remove the air line an feed some into the inlet port

Well Tom that explanes some of what i saw with my test light and when i put a ground to the pump it turned on, i have a new low amp controller, will replace it on zsaturday an go from there

Wait a minute im callin BS on the “cost” cause were not drivin a Prius here an this reasoning beads vs Centro-Matic’s… i will state that what i understand about MY centrematics is they balance the rotating mass, that they lend a certain amt to the tires however some tires have heavy spots that require a basic balance to overcome the majority. So if you use the beads AND centermatics your doin everything to achieve true balance

Hey Jim Thank you, with time im sure to have sorted out the design, however like most of us getting basic info really speeds the repair process. Funny sidenote, last night i went out to the coach to check the shades in the bedroom to ensure there was no light leaking in (AKA NAP) that said just before that i tried the water pump, it worked like there was never a problem🤦‍♂️ The difference is the night it quit it was getting ready to storm out, and last night it was warm an dry… As someone who has spent years working on auomotive electrical systems that “issues happen when humidity goes up” hopefully this weekend i will get time to sort it out

Hey i want to add one more thing, as i had the turbo off i was able to perform service on the exhaust brake using the special lube, its funny that there are soooo many items on our coaches that require “special attention” its sometime a chalange to look at each item seperatly to give it the attention it requires.

Yeah i have a GREAT PIECE OF ADVICE, that is when removing the bolts. I had soaked them, however using a wrench they were not moving, so i decied to use a methode i use to use when i worked for Ford that ALWAYS had great results! I used my 3/8 impact wrench (aka rattle wrench) with a socket and use short bursts on the trigger and EVERYONE of them came out with no problem. With my ESN of 46279317 my manifold kit # was 5633648 it included both manifolds the bolts and spacers to secure it on the engine. However it DID NOT include the 4 studs or the gasket for the turbo to manifold, the turbo drain gasket, plus i also replaced the oil lubrication hose 3282159, i went one step further and replaced the o rings on the fittings that the hose attached to. The pic showes the hose on the left is the pressure line im talking about with the o rings in the positions im talking about. The fitting #8 has two o rings #7 & 9 that i replaced. One more thing that was a pain but doable that was removing the two bolts that hold the turbo drain to the turbo #11 in the pic pulling them out i used a #10 wobbly with a 6in extension on a hand ratchit. But getting them back in i used a 1/4 in ratchit wobbly an extension cause there more senitive for feel, as the hardest bolt was the one closest to the engine, damm near difficult to see let alone get to, but it is doable.

After recently having a new muffler installed the person doing the install mentioned thet the manifold was leaking... that explains the squeal when using the exhaust brake. So I was able to get a "kit" thru Cummins $850.00, bolts, spacers & gaskets then after several hours and a few scrapes and head banging I was able to get thru the ordeal. People told me I should have just gotten the manifold shaved and reuse the old one, however given all the work it took to remove it, then reinstall it I decided that the effort merited the cost of the new manifold. Before the purchase I took the part number and looked in amazon they had a similar model but it was not a Cummins part, Im not sure that part would have worked out fine however I have heard too many stories about aftermarket parts and the failures about them, for me the chance to have to do the ugly job over was more than I was willing to risk. All this said if this was a few years ago I might be able to consider using a aftermarket component, due to back in the day they seem to have stricter tolerances that made them more competitive. So how do you see using aftermarket parts, do you use them? can you share your aftermarket stories. Given the opportunity how would you choose original mfg. or aftermarket.

hello everyone, so tonite my plan was to sanitize the fresh water system, I added the bleach filled the tank then went to turn on the pump from the inside...FAIL! Crap! so I went outside and turned on the outside switch the pump came on, so having pressure building I opened all the faucets and let the mixture pour out. So then used the inside switch to turn off the pump... no problem, it wasn't till I had to do some more flushing and now it won't come on at all, no matter what switch I use. So using my test light I tested the power and ground at the electronic relay. It has battery power it has ground, and for the switch it uses a ground sense which works fine... now for the LOAD it has 12volts coming out and does NOT change! So then I go to the pump, it has 12 volts coming in but no ground. if I inject ground to the circuit it works as long as I keep providing it, so what am I missing? Does the power relay control the power or the ground? It got cold and dark so im done for the day. Thanks

Looking at the CAC right where the the top 5 rows coming out of the tanks there was a definite sign of black dirt right where the tubes came out on one side. For sure im gonna pull it to have it pressure tested and decide from there.

Hello everyone, so I am in the throws of replacing my exhaust manifold, I had blown a gasket and decided I did not want to try to machine an reuse them. So it really wasn't a bad price, however today as I started tearing it down it was brought to my attention that my charge air cooler is leaking. Given im sure the new ones are costly im sure I was wondering if anyone had luck having them fixed, I mean I really only want to do this once, I know when my radiator started to leak no one recommended repairs, they all said to replace... so I did and it has been fine!!!

Try running your engine while you set your jacks, i have a rig at work that due to aged out batteries it trys to engauge but immediately fails to operate, on a fluke i ran the engine an they worked with no problem. Observe the voltage at the pump while you have someone try to operate them, if the voltage drops to 10 V, you may have a battery problem or a bad ground.

Aside from move to a different spot, not really, im not sure if the fan that changes pitch with RPM fluctuations would help. Mine gets the same everytime we head out to Nevada to go play, things to watch out for is as the engine runs an creating “blow by” it too is being thrown at the radiator, mixed with the dust it starts to restrict airflow☹️ make sure you keep the radiator clean often, especially look from the inside towards the radiator to make sure it’s not Plugging the fins up with the glop.