Rikadoo

On my 1st coach i developed a 58 mph shimmy, appeared to be from the RF, it was a sunday, i was trying to get home, the tire shop i found open said they balance tires using the beads ONLY. I said ok, they removed ALL the weights, broke down the tire an thru in bags holding the beads, they told me it will take 50 miles for the bags to break open an disperse…😖 yeah it was worse an figure an out of towner leaves your town, heading home is NOT turning around to have you “try it again” . Got back home had them taken out an balanced with wieghts. Immediately it was better however 100 miles later the shake was back, suspected a tire issue, bought my newer coach. Do your on line investigation, some say they work others dont, i will stick with the wieghts.

I used to be a cat person for YEARS, an after loosing my wingman, Hansel i was stuck. Then my bride who is smarter than me went an found Roxi AKA wiggle butt, hotrod, or just plain Dog, that is a long-haired dapple dachshund that almost immediately filled that void, now 14 years later shes had some medical issues, that so far shes been able to rally an come back from. For me its like riding out on the range an you see in the distance dark clouds coming… I feel for ya pal i too have lost so many tender spirits that seem to from day one make my visit on this rock soooooo much more easy to tolerate. Best wishes an sorry for your loss… P.S. When i lost Hansel it helped alot to write my feelings down an post them on a grieving website for pets.

Honestly when i was with Ford if or when the customer would have a driveability issue i would reprogram with out thinking to ensure the latest an greatest, then there were a couple times it interfered with there HP improver program they had installed, though we were not liable cause of warrany policy the trouble was for the customer to reinstall there software. Didnt take long for me to realise from then on to call the customer an ask if they wanted to undo or to back out there upgrade so we could do our update, all of this mumbo jumbo is to say if you like the way your rig is running, and you dont want to go thru the headache of reinstalling what may be in there to give you back what you now enjoy just say NO to the update. I agree with calling Banks, cause IF when they performed there power mod it may have changed the signature of “stock” data info which could cause a misinterpitation of the Mfg. Specs making the mechanics computer think there was a issue when in fact there isnt. my rig has the Banks stinger mod which is NO LONGER supported from them, so i would be screwed trying to regain that what was taken out.

So Jerry i have heard with the Amish conversion you can get the 12volt or the 110volt, which one do you have? If its the 12 volt model how do your batteries hold up? I have concidered if the day comes i have to make a decision to convert or replace.

Having reciently spent some time looking for a exhaust clamp, what i found is due to my having a exhaust brake it was VERY difficult finding a clamp that would fit. I will spare you thr details of that adventure to tell you this, If your coach does have a exhaust brake go to that website of its Mfg. As i checked out its site i discovered that due to its design shape that they also sell the short pipes with the specific size flange, that when taken to a exhaust shop can weld it on to the either remaing pipe our on to a specific one turn elbow which then clamps on to your muffler inlet. If you dont have a exhaust brake then it may be like you say Mfg. Specific I believe my brake is a Pacbrake, the difference in flange type is very apparent, having years ago worked on the cummins big cam engines those turbo flanges have much more surface are that mates with the back of the turbo… good luck an let the voodoo ranger come to your rescue😂 my friend makes his Budwiser🎉😎

Hey Bob, on my HR the union that holds the temp sender is between two hydrolic hoses, it has a wire that goes directly to ground, if your “T” is going to be connected to the transmission or some other grounded location then NP however if its like mine it will need to have a good ground.😎

Remember to attach a ground wire to that fitting.

Walk Away…. Run if you can!!! i worked on them when they came out, reason is only ford can do major service ONLY FORD! Cause EVERYTHING needs a special tool, ford quit using them cause all the techs and dealerships were bitching so bad cause the time factors were thru the roof. You will notice there is no doghouse to remove to accec the back of the engine, well the engine mfg put the EGR cooler right in the very back of the engine, almost IMPOSSABLE to change, plus im sure the parts availability will be $$$$$ due to they dropped the engine family. Sorry didnt respond sooner, i was having issues opening the website…🙀runnnnnn!

So all of these differ, in my cummins manual that came with my white box of all its other manuals gave a spec that said my 8.3 holds 11.5 quarts. That does not include the radiator or any other things connected to the cooling system. When i replaced all my radiator i had bought a case of coolant (6 gallons) and equil amt of distilled water, i believe i ended up with just a little over a gallon left over.

If it is air locked i have always cracked the fuel lines at the injectors an cranked it over to get the air out, otherwise you will burn up your starter trying to get it started. And yes a ignition switch can take a 💩 however i always found the starting to be intermintent, not just all of a sudden fail, but dont rule it out. One more thing where did you get the power to run your FASS system (key on power)

Hows your power while under load? Have you checked to see if you have any codes? You mentioned you had a crack in your turbo, when you replaced it did it have a VGT actuator on it or did you just trasfere parts? Also how is it you found all the issues with you had was there a driveability issue or ?

Hey fyi i just had a coach in the shop the other day, its steps would not extend. I saw when the door was opened an closed you could see the step light 1st dim then brighten like the motor was getting power then it cycled off, i found where the shaft comes out to meet the actuator there is a clevis pin, it had worked its way out far enough that it jambed its self in the body of the gearbox. Once i got it free i hammered it back in place flush with the shaft, now they work great.

I have a 2003 Endeavor, there is a packet in with “The box” of information that came with mine that says make an model.

So its a 8.3, as for the size the bag says 4” how ever the parts tech called it 4.6” i also noticed that it has the new style retainer on it, in that now the “T” bolt is replacable in case it strips or breaks so you dont have to replace the entire clamp.

Ok folks… i finally got the dreaded band clamp debackel resolved🤦‍♂️ So in finding a clamp there are more than one measurment thats involved, i always thought it was the circumfrence, thats a part then the inside has a width, then i call them the wings, which is the metal that actually covers the angle of the flange🤪🤪🤪 so when your in front of a parts guy there eyes roll up in the back of there head an tell you to refer to the manufacture… i wont bore you with all the people an places i have tried just looking for a glimmer of hope. So once i discovered im not trying to connect to the turbo as much as i am to the engine brake things started to make sence. My first stop was the internet looking at my engine brake Mfg. From there looking to who carried it, called an spoke with a guy who said they sell a kit for $117, comes with all the mounting equipment for the brake assy, after a few minutes of conversation we became aware of seeing if they sell the clamp individually… BINGO!!! Even after all that i boild down to getting one in my hands because as good as the parts guy was he had very little dimensions other that the Mfg and the main outer dimension. Anyway, leap of faith an a master card my order arrived an its a match. That whole adventure has been over 3 weeks trying to solve, makes me want to get another just cause, Also something to concider, is the clamp FROM the turbo TO the exhaust brake the same or different🤦‍♂️ just too much to think of right now, instead its time for a beer🍻 hope this journey helps👍

HOLY CRAP! this project is taking an awful turn, so I went to Napa, no help went to Kenworth in San Leandro, nope called the manufacture, no answer, called there competitor... goose egg! so as I talked with people this weird size is due in part to it having a engine brake, so I called thoroughbred cause they sell engine brakes, they supposedly have one, it is sold by the people who make the exhaust brake. The ones I have tried were either too loose or too tight, soon as it gets here I will update everyone

I Love Cole Hearsy switches and equipment, that said my next best choice is Blue sea. They sell great equipment that is used in marine applications. I know out here in Ca its sold in boating stores called West Marine, in my opinon its worh givin them a look, if you cant find Cole Hearsy

So i decided to replace the muffler on my rig, i picked out the one to go on it Aero mfg, my muffler shop installed it with a caveat in that Very soon the intermediate pipe from the turbo to muffler needed to be replaced, so Monday i parked my coach in front of the house an pulled the exhaust system Doing so the v clamp bolt snapped , my lame ass thought ehh! I can get that from fleet pride… NOT! So i have the PN an NOBODY has one🤦‍♂️ So the info on the clamp is a R.G. Ray corp #10573-1 has anyone had to deal with this before??? i went on the R G ray website an they dont even list it on there parts list. Im suspecting this is a “captive” part that only Cummins has, which i will need to verify MONDAY🤦‍♂️

Thinking outside the box i know my HR has a powered subwoofer that sits under the table in a cabnit with a grate in the front of it, im sure it would require a amplifier, perhaps looking to see if there is similar equipment.

I too bought mine from matteress insider, i can really say ANYTIME i want a GREAT night sleep i spend a few nights in my rv! The only other thing i have done after getting the matteress was to buy the material that lays under the matteress that allows air flow, i had read that due to a memory foam absorbs heat if it is sitting on a solid surface with no air flow it can start to mildew.

Your right, any muffler shop can, and in fact my coach is getting a Aero muffler on the main engine this saturday, however the pipe coming off the muffler for the genny looks like a dogleg. Was thinking i could find some relitive parts sheets that might shed some insite as to the original design so i wont have to pay for a creative interpretation as to what it should look like.

Hello everyone. So im looking for information on where to get a tailpipe for my 7500 Onan. When I bought this it has what looks to be pipe that came from a fence. I have entered in the search window and gotten everything from EVERY generator dealer but very little to do with exhaust. perhaps there is a specific place where to get the required pieces from. Any help is welcomed

So your electric bay is same as my HR i was waiting to find something that might fit, however as it stands, without modifying the cabnit it just doesnt look feasible, please let me know if an how when you do.

Something i have seen over the years is the opting to ALWAYS wanting to go new rather than rebuild, i suspect this comes from the idea we always want New, that New is always “better” and i will concede there are times it is. However when i took my alternator off while i was replacing my water pump, hoses and alike i had my alternator “rebuilt” knock on wood its working great. Now the reason im posting is not to share a story to compeate with the new vs rebuilt instead its about the loss of the trade, when i was searcing for a shop to do the work, many had been shuttered due to lack of avaiable parts, and or qualified personell. Finally found one located in a schetchy part of town 70 miles away, the owner had a story of his own that bent towards the influx of Chinese parts an componits that was making good solid repairs difficult. Folks i get the idea that we all just want to be on our merry way an to not be bothered by Messy things like breakdowns or people problems, but im here to say that our common man is worth whatever it takes to invest in them. As a tradsman who watched happen replace rather than rebuild, the impact it has had on the industry has been tremendous, that everyone needs to decide for themselves which dirrection they should head. But for me i will choose to rebuild first, in hopes it gives some type of support to the people who make a living doing so. Remember Mechanics were originally there to repair… not to simply replace! Just another idea worth thinking about when making your decision😎

So with Alternators that have “factory” regulators installed the light has two reasons to operate. The first is when it is not outputting, the other is when the output voltage exceeds the limits of the voltage regulaor setting. Its best to check the voltage in two places 1st directly on the Alteernator with the coach NOT plugged in, 2nd on the coach batteries. You are looking to see similar voltage or at least within 1/2 volt. Next Leese Nevel alternators do have a adjustment point where you can lower or raise the output, (procedure we had to do with ambulances) it requires a plastic screwdriver and a voltmeter. I believe you can go on line to the company and it has procedures on how to compleate the operation. Either way if it was me i would perform the voltage check without turning anything on, measure your voltage rpm over time to ensure voltage does NOT continue to climb, as over voltage can ruin voltage sensitive electronics! Connect your voltmeter (i perfer to use two meters, one on the alternator the other on the batteries) start the engine, then hit cruise “set” button which should increase the rpm to like 1300, now just let it run for 10 minutes, watch your voltage. It should not continue to climb past 14. Ish volts, lets say it starts getting to 15 and continues to climb during that time you have a regulator issue that needs to be addressed. If it does not exceed the 14 ish volts and remains fixed then click on your headlights an see what the voltage drops to. Cause though the headlights may turn off the Alt light, if the voltage remains too high 14.9 and above you may start to notice premature bulb burn out. Most charging systems use a sweet spot ranging from 13.8 to 14.5 volts, and regulators are temperature sensitive in that as they get to operating temps usually the output will drop slightly to reduce battery gassing, and or battery damage. Suffice it to say overcharging of any amount can be $$$ from bulbs, batteries, engine / transmission computers and everything in between. I can go on an on about the reasons why its important to test and know the reasons why your indicator light is coming on, just know its a tatteltale, something IS wrong in how its perimeters were initially set and being broke down somewhere in nowhere USA is not fun, plus expensive.