Tom Wallis

I just replaced a Duo-Therm cover in October. I also found it at Amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IABALBO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

Thanks James, you could be right. In my case I installed a 500 Watt electric heater along with a WiFi thermostat in my wet bay. In my case the heat from it rises up and heats my plumbing and my tanks. So far I've haven't had any problems down to 5 degrees. But it kind of bugs me having a switch that doesn't do anything.

I have an identical switch and light on my panel also. However, there are no heaters or blankets in my motorhome so I always assumed the switch and wiring were installed regardless if you had the optional cold weather package or not.

I've been a certified professional mechanic since 1971. Both training and experience taught me to remove the negative terminal first. If you touch your wrench to anything other than the positive post while removing the negative terminal nothing happens. If you start with the positive terminal and touch your wrench to any metal you'll be welding.

The heater I'm using is just a 500 watt personal space heater that you can buy just about anywhere for around $15. I wouldn't mind having something a little more commercial duty but I haven't run across one yet. I've been using this one for 2 years and it runs just about every night in the winter where I live.

I have the same switch on the control board in the hall. I came to the conclusion that it was for an option that I didn't have, a wet bay heater. I wanted to use it both because I need wet bay heat sometimes and because I hate switches that don't do anything. I ended up with a different solution for wet bay heat though. I install a 500 watt box heater in the wet bay. It is plugged into a thermostatic wifi switch. The switch turns on and off at whatever temperatures I set it for (I use 40F and 45F). The wifi hooks to the mobile hot spot in the motorhome and I control it from my phone. I can check the temperature in the wet bay anytime and anywhere. I have another heater and switch inside the motorhome also. We spent 3 months in the motorhome one winter where temperatures often got into the single digits at night. That was before I had installed the wet bay heat. I found that as long as we were running the furnace to heat the motorhome I had no problems with freezing in the wet bay or tanks. The heater ducts in the floor would keep everything warm enough.

Here is the schematic I've been using for my Monarch which looks just like yours. As has been stated about all the schematics, sometimes it's helpful and sometimes not. The important thing for you is that it shows the disconnect switch is disconnecting the battery from the starter.Motorhome Wiring.pdf

If you just plug in your motorhome you probably won't need a battery tender. Your converter charger should be a three stage charger and it should maintain your house batteries perfectly. As new as your rig is it will most likely maintain your chassis batteries also. That's easy to check. After you've been plugged in for a while just see if the chassis batteries are at around 13v or a little more. If they are nothing more is needed. And you don't need to be plugged in to 50 amps. You can reduce down to a regular 15 amp plug and that will be good enough for battery charging.

If taking it back to the alignment shop and asking them to finish the job is not an option then here's how to adjust it: Start by spraying some penetrating oil on the threads. Loosen the lock nut on each end. One end has right hand threads and the other has left hand threads, you'll need to determine which is which in order to loosen them. Right hand threads lean towards the left at the top an and left hand to the right. I can't be sure from the photo but it looks like the steering box end is left hand. Once the lock nuts are backed off you can put a pipe wrench in the middle of the drag link and try to turn it. If it's very very stiff just move it a little in each direction going back and forth a little further each time. Once it's loose enough to turn you'll see that one direction lengthens it and the other direction shortens it enabling you to center the steering wheel. You may get it close while parked but the ultimate adjustment will require a road test for the final adjustment.

I used to be an alignment tech. Any good wheel alignment should include centering the steering wheel. If the shop that did the work is any good they should take care of it for no additional charge. The steering wheel is centered on the steering box at the factory and that's important for several reasons. It will stay centered for life unless someone disassembles it and puts it back uncentered. Unless you can determine that it's not centered by one of the methods above, don't change it. The steering linkages under the vehicle are the proper way to center a steering wheel and in this case the drag link is probably it.

I,m a retired mechanic and I've done lots of front end work. Here's what I'd do: with the wheels on the ground and the engine running, have someone move the steering wheel back and forth a few inches, enough to take up all slack plus a tiny bit more. You get underneath and watch all the joints for slack. If it's hard to see put your hand on each joint and feel for play. If you don't feel any significant play grease it and leave it alone. Worn out rubber covers don't indicate bad joints. Because of the amount of work to change the seal, I won't bother until the joint needs replacing. Just keep it greased.

Honeywell RTH111B1016/E1 Digital Non-Programmable Thermostat I originally bought it on Amazon but the link doesn't work anymore. If you do a name search a few different options come up for it.

Several years ago I replaced the old analog thermostat with a basic digital Honeywell thermostat with a battery in it. It's not programmable but it holds the temperature way more accurately than the analog did. I turn it way down at night but not off in cold weather (we've stayed where it's in the teens or single digits at night.) Unfortunately I have to get out of bed and turn it up in the morning but I usually get back in bed till it warms up a little. Even when dry camping I don't usually run the generator until we get up. The batteries will handle the heater blower all night with no problem.

While this arrangement would be handy in many situations I would want a switch the also allows for the fan to stay on. We frequently leave our fans on all night and our bedroom windows open, much like a whole house fan. It really helps cool off the bedroom at night.

I used to have trouble finding blades for my motorhome and I've notice many others in the same boat. I don't even try to mach them anymore. I buy the right length Michelin blades from Costco for about $10 apiece. Then with some minor modification I fit them to my wiper arms. I've been doing this for several years. I have bolt on blades so it usually just involves drilling a hole, Here is a before and after photo of the latest blades I used:

I can't promise that yours is the same as mine but I'm pretty sure it's inches between the wall and the back cap. I've put screws in mine with no problem. Mine has a center brake light in the back cap which is probably at least a couple of inches deep but I feel like there is even more space than that.

Ray, yes a very long time ago! I was 16 in that picture.

Here I am with my first car, a '55 Buick Century with a Dynaflow transmission. That thing was a tank but it served me well.

What type of sensors do you have on that tanks?

Here is a link to the switches I use: https://smile.amazon.com/Sonoff-Temperature-Monitoring-Compatible-Assistant/dp/B07TC2KCGF/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=3I5ZBS77CWSAN&keywords=sonoff+th16+with+temperature+sensor&qid=1640457346&sprefix=Sonoff+TH16+%2Caps%2C217&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzVlc2U09XS044MUsyJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTUyNjE4MjBZQTVHUks3OVU0QiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMDI1NzY4MUw4UThaUkdVRjUxSCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU= I control all of my sonoff devices with an app called eWeLink on my phone. I have several other sonoff devices around the house. I'm not familiar with esphome. Here is a link to the Wyze camera I use: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DGR98VQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I have six more Wyze cams around the house and I can see them all including the motorhome on the Wyze app on my phone. I also access the cameras with an app on my phone called Tiny Cam Pro. Sometimes I use it instead of the Wyze app because it allows me to see all cameras or several cameras live at once which the Wyze app won't do. Both the wifi hot spot and the Wyze cam are powered from 12 volts so no matter where I park the motorhome as long as it has cell service I can check in on it. And because I can rotate the camera from my phone I can look inside and out. It also records motion or sound events so if I mise the action I can see what happened after the fact. The memory card in the camera can record on a continuous loop and therefor facilitates it's use as a dash cam as well. Sorry but I'm also not familiar with RTSP.

I use Sonoff thermostatic switches inside my motorhome and in the water bay to turn on electric heaters and prevent things from freezing. They are linked to a cellular wifi hot spot in the motor home so no matter where it is parked I can monitor the temperature and humidity in the motorhome over the internet. I also have a rotating Wyze cam on the windshield hooked to the same hot spot. It serves as a dash cam while we're driving and a security camera when parked. This is not nearly as sophisticated as what Granville is doing but it doesn't take as much knowledge to accomplish. I consider myself a techy but his system may be above my pay grade.

In the 34' Monarch on am Workhorse chassis with a 8.1L I average about 8mpg. But I live out west and everywhere I go there are mountains. I usually drive between 60 and 65. I hate to hold up traffic. If I'm on a two lane highway I pull over frequently and let people go by.

I would replace the fan motor and try it before replacing the resistor. The fans make a lot of noise when the bearings wear out. If you have to take it out to oil the bearings, don't bother. It's a temporary fix at best. Just replace it. If it still doesn't work on low then you most likely need a resistor also. Sorry I don't know how to access either of them on your motorhome.

My first thought was a malfunctioning BIRD. That can back feed the ignition. I had a similar problem once. But then you said you replaced it. Anyway, it seems to me like the ignition wire that runs to the BIRD is worth some careful examination.

I used the term "best before date" figuratively. Their actual age is not that important.