BradHend

Appreciate the input, everyone! I will look further into it this week and report back with any findings. Thanks again!

Modified. Xantrex Freedom 458 Series

Seems in only happens specifically while not hooked up to shore power and not running on generator power. This is only happening when the inverter is on. I realize the furnace runs on 12VDC, but there just seems to be a relation there and I’m not sure which way to go. Appreciate the feedback!

Thanks Chuck, I am well aware of that and that was one of my questions to the previous owner during the sale. My Cayman has been outfitted with the Source Engineering trailing arm kit.

Thanks Dwight, I’ll have a look into that this week!

Ivan, It has the solenoid switch, works fine, looks like a newer regulator and the stove works just fine all the time. I don’t believe it’s a propane supply issue. Been trying to chase this one down for some time now, just not sure which route to take in determining the problem. Thanks!

Correct, but I suppose i was more pointing out that if the inverter is on which is using the battery…could my batteries be too weak to use the furnace. If plugged in, batteries are charging and then the furnace is fine.

Hi folks. I’ve been experimenting with the MoHo in the driveway this weekend just to see what I can get out my batteries should I ever find myself needing to camp without power. Seems everything works fine with the exception of the furnace. Plugged into shore power or on generator - furnace works fine. Once on inverter power, furnace acts fine except the flame goes out a second or two after igniting, tries again after a set time and repeats the process over and over. Again, only on inverter power. Would you say this is an inverter issue, a battery issue, or something else? Thanks,

Hi folks, this weekend I swapped all my exterior driving lights out to LED on the MoHo. This included the red and amber marker lights at the front/rear of the roof cap, as well as all the other marker lights, brake lights, turn lights etc. pretty much everything except the headlights and the mirror lights as I’ve yet to source the supplier for them. Was imagining a fairly straight forward job, however it wasn’t quite so. A lot of the LED lamps got bigger too quickly at the end of the lamp base and required some very slight modifications to the lamp holder to allow it to fully seat and then turn to lock into place. Another issue I had was the rear turn and brake lights. I guess Monaco didn’t pay too much attention to polarity, as I had to swap leads on the turn signals (the lamp holder side walls were positive, with the small middle bottom contact being the negative) Same went for the brakes. The running light was fine, but when the brake was applied no light came on. Had to rewire those three wires as well. Anyhow, just thought I’d share that if someone runs into that while swapping over. Not a hard fix, but wasn’t expecting to have to do it either. In the end, all systems are working fine and the rig looks respectfully brighter as the sun goes down. Thanks. Forgot to mention, I replaced the middle third brake light bar and added the momentary strobe module as well. I’ve seen these in the past on various vehicles and honestly wasn’t sure how I felt about them. They really do grab your attention, so I’m gonna see how it goes. Looks pretty neat too.

Hi folks, In my pursuit of trying to get a smoother ride out of my R4R chassis - so far I’ve really only just changed the shocks - which did help tremendously with the smaller bumps and what not, I have come to the conclusion that this coach I bought last year is riding under the manufacturer specs with regards to ride height. It’s been this way since I bought it - but ultimately the front is 1” low and the rear is 3/4” low according to the manual. I’m measuring between the steel plates of the airbags, and I’m just wondering if this is one of those cases where if it’s been like this for a long time, would I be causing premature stresses and wear by changing it to what the manual is recommending, or just leave it and change it if/when I replace the four airbags. Would love to hear some thoughts on this. Thanks.

Start at the switch.

Post a pic.

I did mine with it pulled down (and unattached from the coach). Took it apart, oiled up the tube and spring then reassembled it. Just put a bit of tension on it - comparable to what I felt like it was - and cycled it up and down. I increased the tensions slightly each time, cycling it each time until I was happy with how it retracted. Then reinstalled to the coach. It really is quite simple, you’ll get what I'm saying when you take it apart. Good luck!!

Same happened with both of mine. Disassembled it, sprayed some lubricating oil inside the tube and reassembled with increased spring tension. Been fine since. Very easy to do.

Sounds like you are leaving your freshwater tank valve open and overflowing it. There’s a valve to stop filling it and that will stop your problem. Should all be in your wet bay or there about.

That’s quite the list. Nice work, Mike.

Try these guys as well, I have used them for my coach with success. Either search through their catalogue or contact them directly via email https://www.globalproducts.llc https://www.rvandmarine.com/product-category/diesel-equipment-rv-wiper-blades-motors-and-assemblies/

If it isn’t rotted too bad, and it’s mostly just the corners that let go, Guardian Plates from TalinRV seems to be the goto. I will be installing on my slides as soon as the temperature cooperates. They were very professional and helpful during the ordering phase, came as a complete kit basically.

Finally got around to changing out my shocks yesterday and today. Rears and front passenger side was fairly straight forward. Had one heck of a time getting the bolt out of the lower drivers side mount. It was rust welded into the bushing sleeve. Tried spray, heat, sledge hammer, C-clamps etc. to no avail. Finally ended up cutting out the shock and rubber and very gingerly grinding the side of the bushing sleeve down with a Milwaukee mini grinder until it was close to the bolt. What a great tool that is. Anyways, took her for a test drive today to compare before and after - the smaller bumps there is a huge difference, almost night and day difference. My Wife was more excited than I was! 😂 The larger pot holes and bridge gaps were still a pretty hefty thump, however upon returning home after the test drive I checked the ride heights and the rear needs to be raised up 1.5” and the front raised .75”. Thinking that will help as well with increased travel ability for the airbags. The pictures are of the handy grinder I was speaking of, and how I used a large C-clamp to press the lower bolts out of the shock mounts on the other 3 that weren’t too difficult. I was sure to apply anti seize to the bolts where the bushing rides to prevent that hopefully for the next guy. Lol. I went with the Bilsteins, Heavy Duty Series Front (24-186582) Heavy Duty Series Rear (24-186599) Happy Easter everyone!

Hey Rich. Went and checked, oddly enough I had one wire hooked up, and another wire sitting there but appears it just fell off the connector of the sensor. I’m gonna put it on and see if that was the cause of my temp sensor intermittently not working maybe tomorrow if the weather isn’t bad. However, here is a pic of how I found it with the respective labels under the wire loom. For sure it’s a water temperature sensor. Hope this helps, if you need any more info, don’t hesitate to ask. Good luck!

Something up with your manual light switch perhaps?

Post a pic, I’ll compare to my ‘05 this weekend.

Well, can’t really give any tips, but I’ve decided and have purchased 4 new Bilsteins for my R4R roadmaster chassis. Planning to install this weekend, will provide my findings if ya want. Current ones are pretty rusty and old looking, took one off and I could quite easily compress it and extend it - and it stayed where it was put as well. Seeing what I can do to smooth out the ride best I can as I’m taking it to Canada’s east coast this summer; which will be my biggest trip in the Cayman so far. Excited and a little nervous to say the least. Ha.

A little food for thought…if you wire more than one gfci on the same circuit, it will most likely trip right away, or nuisance trip quite easily. Try putting a standard plug in and see if the gfci tester trips another gfci on that circuit.

Couldn’t agree more. Why take the risk? Speaking as a licensed electrician.