BradHend

This sounds like a really good time. So many items listed that I would love to discuss with all the experts. Would I able to bring my children along with me? Two girls, 6 & 9. Coming from Canada, so couldn’t really justify our first long trip in our motorhome to Florida without bringing the kiddos along. Also, if the border happens to close up again or something, I would assume this is non refundable?

Just bought a pair of these from Amazon for my wet bay ones about 2 months ago. They are called Pin Switches.

That click is the solenoid plunger moving and basically activating a bigger switch that connects your house and chassis battery. It sounds like you now know the solenoid is changing state when your DW hits the switch up front, so that seems to check out okay. You said that hitting that switch had no effect on trying to start your coach up and that the solenoid was getting quite warm when it was energized. I’m not sure what the fail rate is on the internal contacts, but it might not hurt to take a resistance reading across the terminals, with the wires safely removed of course. 😀. Take a couple readings and let us know your numbers.

Positive lead on purple, negative lead on white. When the switch is activated you should be seeing 12V. If you hook it up backwards, it’s fine, your meter would just show -12V As to why you experienced that in the first place…could be a pleather of things not even related to the battery. I’d wait and see if it does it again, the problem will no doubt rear it’s head if there is something strange going on.

That solenoid is what connects your house batteries in parallel with your coach batteries when you press the boost switch up front. If it isn’t clicking, check for power (12VDC) at the solenoid terminals when pressing the boost switch. You *can* use the switch, but if it’s starting the engine, what’s the need to use it?

Is that solenoid underneath the two red battery disconnects clicking when you press the boost button?

@wayne.cerven@gmail.com, are your brakes hydraulic, and parking brake air?

Any more info on these? Thanks.

Send it to me, I’d be more than happy to try and fix it for ya.

Holy smokes. Makes my high pressure pump I replaced sound not so bad. However, If I was in that situation, probably would have abandoned the stock lift pump and had them install the FASS system, I think for cheaper. Will be doing that to my Cayman next year I think.

Yes. I’ve ran into this as well. Almost makes it not worth the time sifting through the results.

Update on the 2215 fault: The MoHo is alive again! Installed the new CP3 pump, ensured the supply side was clear of air (I had previously changed the fuel filters as first step of troubleshooting) and she fired on the third crank. Took her for a test drive for some diesel and she seems to be running just fine. Little tip for anyone who has to change their CP3 with the same setup as me however… When you loosen the rail supply line clamp that is right beside the pump, don’t use a 10mm ratchet wrench that only works one way (no ratchet selection) like I did. 🤬 I was loosening it off in the dark with a flashlight and just as it was getting loose and I figured it would come out, it started getting tight again: Yup. Got it wedged up on the hose connector and couldn’t get the darn bolt out. Silver lining was that it was a swivel wrench, so I was able to separate it and hand turn it in enough until the ratchet piece could fall off. Bit of a pain, but lesson learned none the less. Thanks again everyone for the input. Truly appreciated and so lucky to have access to a site like this.

Sorry to hear of your problems, I did a search as well off the Cummins quick-serve site to see if I could help at all, but doesn’t look like there’s much you can do. ShopTalk for the fault from Cummins states: “This fault code can only be caused by an internal ECM problem. Repairs are not possible for the ECM.” Possible reason states: ”Engine Control Module - critical internal failure. Error internal to the ECM related to memory hardware failures or internal ECM voltage supply circuits. Engine may not start. Not sure what you should do. If it’s running okay, I would probably chance it if it’s not too far. Good luck, keep us posted.

👍😂

Flyinhy, I’ve heard all kinds of numbers, but the average seems to be around 5-7K PSI minimum during cranking to get it to fire.

After spending most of the weekend diagnosing and learning how the fuel system works and different ways of checking things, I came to the conclusion that it had to be the high pressure injection pump. Could not for the life of me get pressure to build up on the rail. Sure enough, took out the CP3 pump just now and decided to investigate. Dont need to explain much with those pictures. Getting a refurbed unit from a local guy for about $1300 Canadian. Just to clarify also, my coach has started, idled and ran absolutely fine since I got it. When this happened, it was basically at an idle approaching a yield sign. I believe this is a good check for anyone that experiences a similar issue of not being able to build up pressure and a 2215 fault - take that aluminum cover off, which is easily accessible, and check for a broken shaft. Takes a bit of guess work out of the equation. I appreciate and thank everyone that chimed in on this. Only thing that concerns me now is was it just the shafts time to go, or is there an underlying issue? Will Hopefully be putting the replacement in this weekend, time and weather permitting. I’ll keep yas posted.

I got the code from the on board diagnostic, turn the key on, fully depress the gas pedal 3 times and the code is flashed via the “stop engine” light.

Jacwjames, I filled it up with new fuel when I got it home from the seller, after changing the fuel filters yesterday, I see no evidence of algae. I think I’ve narrowed it down to a bad pressure sensor on the high pressure common rail, or a bad high pressure pump. Will need to get a gauge made up so I can check the PSI on the rail while cranking to see if it’s within spec, from what I’ve read it should be around 100psi. If that checks out, I’ll buy a new pressure sensor. If that still doesn’t do it, guess I’ll need to send her in and get ready to bend over. 😢

CBR046, It had been sitting for about 2 weeks, however I had it running without incident the day before this happened for about 8 minutes. Was just checking and listening to things and letting the air build up so I could move it over a smidge in the driveway. Did find the water pump mounting bolts loose and the belt for it is going to need replacing soon as well. Flyinhy, got the old man coming over to assist today, will see what we can find. Appreciate all the input eh. Thanks again!

Charles, yes, the engine just quit. Was coming up to the first stop sign by my house; so just started applying the brakes and she died. No warning signs or anything. Father in law helped tow me back home so as of now it hasn’t cost me too much yet. 😂

Was heading out to go camping, just left the house (still in sight) and the engine just quit and produced this 2215 code. Anyone have some tips as to where to start? Have not had any issues whatsoever with engine performance, however i will be starting with the basics and changing the fuel filters. They appear to be quite old, I just purchased this coach about 2 months ago. Fuel level was just now confirmed not an issue. 2005 Monaco, 5.9 Cummins. Thanks folks.

Just purchased a 2005 Monaco Cayman a few weeks ago. This problem never happened during our test drive, but the day I picked it up I noticed it when I parked it in the driveway. It is very intermittent, but when it happens, it’s quite a nuisance. I know temperature doesn’t seems to have a role in the issue. Anyways, sometimes when shifting on the keypad from any gear position to another, even neutral, the service light comes on and the gear display goes dead. Can’t do anything until a shut the engine down and restart. Sometimes it will be back to N, other times it stays dead until I press N twice, at which time the display reads NN. Just not sure on how to proceed on this, aside from taking it in. Quite annoying when needing to back in somewhere and I have to restart several times. Thanks for any input. No issues otherwise that I can tell.

I have a very new to me ‘05 Monaco Cayman that does exactly that as well. I Mentioned it to the seller while test driving and he just kinda shrugged his shoulders and said “ya, it’s an old coach, and it flexes”. He didn’t seem too concerned about it. I’d be interested to know if others experience that or not as well. Mine is fine on normal roadways, but negotiating larger uneven turns and what not it makes me want to remove that piece of trim that covers the windshield frame to dash. sounds terrible.