BradHend

Thanks for clarifying, Tom. I figured as much but thought it was worth asking. And you would be correct with the special license for a motorhome in Canada with airbrakes. I would be required to have a “Z” endorsement if my coach had airbrakes. One of a few reasons I went with the smaller Cayman model when I was in the market. I know for a fact my wife wouldn’t be getting her airbrake endorsement. 😂 Thanks again and safe travels!

Are you required to have the non CDL license as a result of the vehicles weight, because it has air brakes, or both? pardon my not knowing, Canada has different rules. I do know I was quite surprised to learn I didn’t need any special license for my Cayman even though it has an air parking brake. Thanks in advance.

Sounds like somethings jamming up or binding if that’s the case. Do you notice any uneven movement in the slide out when it stops and the pump starts to whine? I’d say check your oil level, but if it sounds like it’s working hard when it stops I doubt that would be the problem. Is your slide raised and moves on rollers, or flush style that ramps down?

Any other details on this? electric or hydraulic? just stops halfway? Stops abruptly? Loses power?

Well I’m glad you started with the basics and found the problem. Nice job. Safe travels.

Yup. Makes sense to me. My slides are electric, however I’m an elevator mechanic so I do know a thing or two about hydraulics. The design of your valves may be slightly different than what we use in the industry, but the concept is essentially the same. Give it a whirl, if nothing else, you’ll gain the experience and know how if needed down the road. You “shouldn’t” mess anything up trying it out as you suggested. If it ends up working it doesn’t necessarily mean the solenoid coil is bad…you’ll need to confirm power is there before you can be certain. Problem could be in the wiring upstream.

Good idea but would the pump still be able to run if that was the case? Have been able to find the control board for your hydraulic system yet? Could be able to troubleshoot from there as well with a meter.

I could be totally wrong, and I apologize if I’ve thrown you off track. However, to answer your question about the slide not coming in or out, I would think that if the slide is already in, it therefore couldn’t come in anymore, so if you have an open coil to extend the slide, that would explain why you can’t do either, however I would have expected it budge even just a bit. Sound reasonable? If you happen to look into these coils, make sure you don’t operate them without something metal inside the coil (preferably the plunger that is supposed to be there, but a metal screwdriver shaft should be okay for short increments as well). You could quite easily measure the resistance of the coil leads and compare them to the others to check for an open or shorted coil, or if you don’t have a meter, swap the extend coil with one from your generator and try again. Just be very careful. Don’t force them off or anything as the insulating wrap could be quite delicate now and you’d have a nice coil of fine copper to play with. Hope this helps.

How many slides do you have?

I’m talking about the coil for the hydraulic valve. If you were to hold a screwdriver against the coil for that slide wile trying to operate it, it should stick to the coil as it should be magnetized. You can check others to tell as well. just trying to narrow your issue down. I would think you are correct that the issue is not a fuse issue.

Well, does the slide budge even a little bit when you try in or out?

Does the coil for that slide magnetize when you try and operate the slide out?

Does it sound as if the oil is being bypassed when the pump comes on to operate that slide? As in high pressure due to something stuck or a travel lock still engaged?

I put one of those blue filters you’d get from the big box stores in behind mine. Probably doesn’t do much, but I like to think it does. On a side note, I’ve noticed barely any air coming out of the floor vents. (No, not from the blue filter😉) The hose that goes under the dinette has lots of air pressure, however none of the floor vents do. I’ve put my phone camera and a flashlight in all the vents to see if anything is obstructing the path, but from what I can see it all looks clear. Would anyone happen know how the floor vent system was ducted on an ‘05 Cayman or know why I’m not seeing any air flow at the floor vents? Sorry for intruding, @brokenarrow1244 Thanks.

From Mark @ BlueFire: “Hi Brad, Since you don’t have a 9-pin adapter in the cab I’m guessing that you just have J1708 in which case it won’t make a difference which port you use. However if the 9-pin port in the engine bay has 6 pins then that port is using J1939 and J1708 and may be better. You can tell by plugging in the adapter into the 9-pin port, check the App Setting ‘Connect to the J1939 Data Bus’ and then see what data you’re getting on the Drive and Repair pages.” I will see what the outcome is when it shows up. Also, Peter - I found the company that custom makes the cables to your spec using the Deutsch connectors. Just have to give them the spec on the pin arrangements. 45’ was not a problem for them, so if the rear 9 pin Connector is indeed better, looks like I’ll be buying and routing it throughout the chassis. www.yasoncable.com

I’ve done quite a bit of reading this weekend, I think I’m gonna try the SikaFlex-715 self leveling roof sealer for roof repairs, and the SikaFlex-221 sealant for the wall sections. They have it in aluminum grey, which should work quite nicely with my coach paint. I too have read that latex based sealants are not the best options. Will update on my results in the spring when I get to it, along with the guardian plates I ordered from TalinRV. Thanks everyone for your input, suggestions and tips.

Yes, one of the two contactors in that transfer switch should be pulled in. One pulls in when connected to shore power, and the other would pull in when connected to generator. They are mechanically and electrically interlocked so they can’t be picked up at the same time and cause a big boom.

Have you taken any voltage readings anywhere yet?

Am thinking about buying the BlueFire adaptor for my coach, and was hoping someone on here may be able to verify a question I have. My coach has a 9 pin diagnostic port in the rear engine bay, and a six pin port in the front cab. The question is, will there be less information available via the 6 pin port, and should I be purchasing the 9 pin extension cable and bring it all the way up front. Thanks,

Hi folks. It appears my motor home is due to have a thorough reseal job on all the exterior trim pieces and what not. My Coach is more of a silver color, as is the existing caulking that needs to be redone. I’ve looked at the Dicor product, but it isn’t available in silver. Anyone have any suggestions on a good product to reseal the coach in a silver, or aluminum looking Color? Many thanks.

Imports of Certain Composite Wood Products to Require TSCA Certification Title VI December 17, 2018 Beginning March 22, 2019, US imports of regulated composite wood products must be certified and labeled by a third-party as compliant with Title VI of the Toxic Substances Control Act (TSCA). Previously, the goods could be certified under the California Air Resources Board’s (CARB) Airborne Toxic Control Measures (ATCM) phase II emission standards. After the March date, certification to the CARB ATCM phase II criteria is no longer sufficient. The certification ensures that the goods meet national formaldehyde emission standards per the Environmental Protection Agency’s (EPA) Formaldehyde Standards for Composite Wood Products Act. Composite wood products include hardwood plywood, particleboard, and medium-density fiberboard or finished goods containing the materials, such as furniture, cabinets, picture frames, toys, etc. As found on EPA’s FAQ on the Act, products not covered by the rule include structural, curved, and military-specified plywood; structural panels, oriented strand board, structural composite and finger-jointed lumber, pre-fabricated wood I-joists, hardboard, wood packaging, and other products. Additionally, after March 22, 2019, importers are responsible for providing a TSCA Section 13 import certification for these products. According to CSMS message #18-000727, the “TSCA Section 13 import certification will be in the form of a positive certification for applicable shipments through the U.S. Customs and Border Protection’s Automated Commercial Environment (ACE).” Upon request, importers must make records documenting compliance available to the EPA within 30 calendar days. If you have questions regarding Title VI or Section 13 of TSCA, please send an email to Deringer’s compliance department.

Are you sure this applies to the wood in the RV? Seems like it’s speaking of an imported shipment, no? I’ve never heard of this, fellow Canadian 🇨🇦

A pictures worth a thousand words

Hi all. Near the end of our season last year I noticed the windshield wipers intermittently stopped working. Upon investigation I found the entire case of the windshield wiper motor was all cracked up. I’ve contacted Wiper Technologies, which was listed on the motor with the pertinent info for a replacement, they came back with a model D103 from Wexco. I was able to find a new one on eBay for half the price anywhere else, but it says it is a dynamic park, whereas the one suggested from Wiper Technologies had no data indicating of such. Can anyone with a D103, or same as what’s in my picture, in a Monaco (‘05 Cayman 32PBD in my instance) tell me for sure which style? From what I can tell, dynamic or not, they both still had a 5 pin connector. Appreciate any input on this. Thanks. Current Wiper Motor: What I found on eBay:

Might as well cross off some basics…there’s an ignition interlock. Is your key off? Is it just that slide that won’t come in? Do you notice lights dimming when you attempt to bring it in? Do you have a meter to check fuses/power/switches?