BradHend

To Retrieve Active Fault Codes: 1. Turn the ignition key OFF. 2. Turn the ignition key ON immediately apply three full throttle application. 3. Observe CHECK ENGINE and STOP ENGINE lamps. a. If no active codes are recorded, both lamps will remain illuminated. b. If an active code is recorded, both lamps will illuminate momentarily, then flash the recorded fault. c. When codes are retrieved, turn OFF the Engine Diagnostic switch. The fault code will flash in the following sequence: • The yellow CHECK ENGINE lamp will flash. • There will be a short one to two second pause. • The fault code will flash on the red STOP ENGINE lamp. • There will be a short one to two second pause between each number. • When the number has finished flashing in STOP ENGINE, the CHECK ENGINE lamp will appear again. The fault code will repeat the sequence. Each fault code will flash twice before advancing to the next code.

Thats the plan. If I run into issues along the way I’m sure YouTube can help me out.

My ‘05 Cayman is in need of replacement fabric on both slide toppers, both window awnings and the large side awning. I’m quite certain they are original. I have been looking into all the different vendors available and I stumbled across these folks. Seem to have very good reviews and the price point is just too good to not look into. Obviously I would prefer to go with Stone Vos, but unfortunately they are just a wee bit out of my budget for the coach at the moment….Basically I can do the whole coach with Tough Top for the price of the main awning through Stone Vos. 😯 Unfortunate, but it is what it is. I requested samples from the folks at Tough Top, which came today, and I must say it appears to be a pretty robust material. I guess it’s some sort of proprietary vinyl blend with a stong middle mesh to hold it all together. Claim better seams than OEM as well. Just curious if anyone in the membership has used their product and what you think of it, and is it lasting as well as they claim? Thanks.

I would most definitely say jacks up (fully retracted). You don’t want the piston getting corroded or dried up and it could in fact damage the packing and/or wiper seal.

Aftermarket wasn’t an option for my manifold, part#s 3955199, 3955197. Not sure if you followed along my post about my manifold issues, but long story short - I had to have Cummins specifically make the larger 3955199 section with the EGR and turbo flanges on it. Cost me 1200 just for that, then another 450 for the smaller section. Literally scoured the globe trying to find it, be it new, used, salvage - notta. Your comment about the 2 pieces being a matched pair I hope doesn’t bite me in the butt. My two sections most definitely are not a matching pair, however the taper fit is beautiful and the ports are all perfectly in line with each other. Crazy times.

Not always the case - On my lower end ‘05 Cayman it has a plunger switch which controls the wet bay light.

Interesting. On my Cayman the only door that utilizes the plunger switch is the wet bay. It is always powered. The rest of the bay lighting is controlled by the two three way switches at the passenger area as you mentioned, as well as in the wet bay beside the three way switch for the water pump. Have the majority of the plunger switches on your coach perhaps just been bypassed? They are quite cheaply made and prone to failure from what I’ve seen. I suppose another issue could be they aren’t setup quite right? As in the door isn’t actually hitting the switch and therefore staying lit?

Hope it’s not your high pressure fuel pump. Same thing happened to me, that’s what it was.

Have you checked to see if the slide topper got bunched up and pulled in on one side? Happened to me. Caused a gap and the whole slide to rack a bit. Of course I didn’t really notice until I had to find out where the water inside the coach was coming from.

If the part was available it would only be about 400. Cummins had to make that special for a fee in Tennessee. Only way I could get it. Also keep in mind that’s Canadian Dollars with 13% sales tax and import/broker fees. I was able to pick up the smaller piece, new on eBay, this morning for $168 US. Craziness.

It’s here. It exists. 😁 As elated and thankful as I am to finally have this part in hand now, have I ever mentioned how much I hate dealing with Cummins parts? Such a money grab. Also, when I get the damaged one off, I’ll post some pictures of it - Perhaps then the decision to go with new will seem like the better option or at least make me feel better about spending $1200 on 2/3’s of a new manifold. Time to get the ATF and acetone out.

Just got off the phone with Cummins. I can’t tell you all how happy I am to say that the “Emergency Part Order” worked, and it is now waiting for pickup at the Mississauga Location in Ontario. This has been a long time coming, folks. What a relief!! The other section of the two-piece manifold, the bolts, the gaskets etc. are all in stock and ready to ship, just need to put the order in. Literally got back today from our Christmas holiday in Florida - I called and stopped in to probably over 30 salvage yards and parts places that showed up all along the I-75 from Michigan to Florida, nobody had this part. Quite a nice surprise on the home voicemail when I got home 🤗. If only this happened a little sooner, I could have stuck to the plan and taken the Coach to the Disney Park we had booked for over a year. Next year it is. 😉

Great find Michael. I too will be investigating a furnace duct leakage on my ‘05 this winter hopefully. My furnace has very similar symptoms and only the flexible duct hose that runs to the dinette feet area has good air movement. Bedroom, bath and the two other main vents have next to no air movement. I have sent an inspection camera in the ducts and they are clear, next is as you did with the thermal camera. I have a descent one that connects to Apple devices. There’s gotta be a leak or questionable connection somewhere around the furnace.

Cummins quickserve states my engine was built 2004-09-16. I have also heard conflicting stories from many experts that my engines EGR system is in cylinder and the only way to delete is to change the cam, but I think the manifold and the valve attached to it speaks for itself…I had one shop owner get verbally upset with me claiming my 5.9 doesn’t even have an EGR and it was never an option. It’s been pretty fun dealing with this manifold. I just can’t believe or understand why my setup is so “unique”.

Thanks. I wish it wasn’t unique though.

I’ve talked to at least 4 tuning shops, all claim they aren’t able to due to the year of my engine. ‘07 and up no problem.

I think I just view #6 differently than proper. It’s on the end of the large piece. So, #1 then.

@RNMCBR The top flange bolt on #6 let go unnoticed on me I’m assuming during my initial overheat condition in early summer and there were no signs or symptoms of anything wrong with the exhaust leaking until our east coast trip near the end of summer. My Cummins authorized mechanic even gave everything a clean bill of health before we ventured out east. Simple oversight is all, not blaming anyone. That is when the leak became evident not only from the sudden noise, but the complete loss of boost pressure. Immediately once the engine was cooled down enough to examine, I gave all the manifold bolts I could easily get to a tension check and that’s when I discovered that the top bolt on #6 just fell out by hand. Bad situation turned worse when it was then discovered, in the middle in Nova Scotia that there was now a 3/16” air gap at that connection point and the bottom bolt was still hanging on. I trust you can visualize how much this manifold is warped. I believe it is beyond a simple planing at this point. Very unfortunate situation for me. Hence the decision to do what I could via improvised emergency roadside repairs.

So I called Cummins Eastern Canada today after thinking about your post and gave them a hard time about this manifold of mine that I can’t seem to get from anywhere or anyone. They said they can put in an emergency order request for it, but it will cost me a special fee and there’s no guarantee it will show as their systems show not a single one in the world at this time. I told them to go ahead and put the order in, I’ll pay whatever it takes. After all this time and the continuous calls for stock availability this was never mentioned as a possible solution to procurement. I have my doubts it will show up, but I can’t thank you enough for posting that as it’s definitely worth a shot and it’s the closest I’ve come yet to getting my hands on one. Fingers crossed.

Agreed, very well said 👏. I wish a very Merry Christmas and happy holidays to everyone as well. Very proud to be a member of this forum.

Couldn’t agree more. Especially when you’re watching it like a hawk due to engine overheat issues and she cuts out on ya. Lol. 🤬

I have same issue with android or iPad. Sometimes getting it connected at the start of a trip it needed to be disconnected and plugged back in to get it to initially connect. The dash setup I also found took way too much time so I opted for a generic template from the user repository and tweaked one to suit my needs. I’m sure if I spent more time learning it I could make a pretty sweet dash layout, but when I tried the whole thing was so laggy and time consuming between the vast amount of options. Not trying to knock it, I really do enjoy it when it works, invaluable asset in my opinion on an older motorhome. Came in quite handy not only to monitor what isn’t available on the physical gauges, but also a sense of security to be able to validate the readings between the physical gauges and the digital dash gauges.

Not sure on HR, my ‘05 cayman has the 6 pin up front, 9 pin in the rear engine bay. Much more data available when connected to the rear 9 pin, however the Bluetooth signal isn’t strong enough to reliably work in drivers seat. I managed to find a business that will make a custom length extension with the Deutz connectors, which I plan to do so that I have the 9 pin connection up front.

@dl_racing427 I’m all for ditching the EGR and using a standard manifold, my issue seems to be that no diesel tuning shops can delete it on a 2005 engine. Only seems to be on the ‘07s and up from what I can see. Not as simple as ditching it and installing covers on the 2 ports from the research I’ve done either. That also raises the issue that if I modify the ECM and engine components, from what I hear, Cummins won’t touch it. If you know how to delete properly, I’m all ears, otherwise I intend to keep it how it came.