BradHend

It is stored indoors over winter but not heated. Possible water got in and froze. The bulging material is still quite pliable and I am able to force it to sit tight into basically the tongue I guess of the mating seal, but it just pops right back out. Wasn’t sure if I could just do that with some kind of bonding agent and hold it in place. Something like that at least.

No leaks so far anywhere on the windshield. 🤞

Hoping someone might be able to offer me some advice and input on my windshield. Part of the lower gasket has kind of bulged up and separated from the mating seal. Based off of these pictures - while I highly doubt easy and cheap based on my experience elsewhere on the coach - this isn’t as simple as cleaning the area, applying a sealant and pressing it back together is it? Much appreciated. TIA.

@1nolaguy I replaced all my exterior lights to LED on my ‘05 cayman last year. At first I was impressed when I fired them up around dusk to see how they looked and to make sure they worked properly, which they did look good (at dusk) and they did work just fine. I do however feel that, other than the top marker lights, they just don’t cut it for visibility during the daytime hours, almost seem a touch less bright than the original incandescent. I’ve often thought about having the existing lights professionally filled in and installing those really nice round highly visible light bars on each side of the coach, kinda like this: New bulb holders and replacement OEM lenses and bases are extremely expensive, whereas something like in the picture are super cheap and super bright.

If you get no other takers, count me in.

I’m having that exact pipe made up in stainless as the original has developed a small, intermittent leak. Buddy with a metal shop is making and bending for me. I hope to have the old girl back up and running by the end of spring at the latest…but I’m now considering replacing my VGT while I’m doing all the other work the exhaust and coolant system. As for that 90 degree hose and all the others I was planning on doing the same as you and sizing them up at a parts store. Good luck. Post what you end up doing. I will do the same.

I’ll take it if it’s available still.

I read and re read your post and I think I’m still confused. The left gauge has both air tanks on the needle gauge (green and red) and the right gauge is the boost, which probably wasn’t moving because you were at idle. Are you meaning the left side airbags filled up only and now the coach leans because the right side didn’t air up?

Interested to hear more about your process. Thanks.

If you go the cork route, you will for sure need a piece of wood, thin metal or something else to act as a runner for your slide rollers if you have that style.

Do you have a third relay perhaps dedicated for the flashers like my Cayman does? just went and confirmed mine. A relay for left turn signal, a relay for right turn signal, and a third relay, just above and behind the accelerator pedal that pulses with hazard lights on, which is in the picture. My four way flashers do not operate if the brake pedal is depressed at all as well.

My coach (and license) are only rated for like 25000 lbs, so ceramic will never be an option for me. Our coach came with carpet, but the PO poorly installed vinyl plank flooring which was poorly glued down to to the existing subfloor. I will be redoing the whole rig at some point. His workaround for the height difference at the main slide was to use 2 strips of the leftover plank positioned at the roller location whenever it was being retracted or extended. Seemed to do the trick, even those sacrificial pieces the roller moved along never had any damage or depressions on it, so I think even vinyl plank is up to the task. Another option would be build the subfloor up until end result is flush with the existing areas and install a nice low profile transition strip. Guess I should mention my slides are raised floor slides as well. There is some very nice looking LVT available out there, but there’s also some very nice looking ceramic too. Choice is yours. I think either is fine.

I’m not sure if this is normal, so any insight would be helpful. If I plug my coach into a 120v, 20A receptacle for shore power, the EMS displays that all the loads are available, and they are. If I happened to have both A/Cs on, both would attempt to run. It still recognizes if I’m plugged into 50a shore power or running off the genny, but being plugged into only 20A I thought the load outputs were automatically throttled back to say one A/C and the water heater. Unless I’m wrong and it dynamically sheds loads as it sees higher current being drawn, in which case it must be malfunctioning as it will try and run both A/Cs on 20A service until it blows the shore breaker.

Stumbled upon this article. I’ll measure mine and see how they compare, but is this a legit way of telling?

@TW Racing Mind sharing where you got the definitive answer from? I’m assuming you found them..

Tom - I have checked the parts list, there is no mention in the airbag section, not even grouped with other models. Strange that it’s the airbags I seem to be getting nowhere with. 🤷‍♂️ Might get in touch with source tomorrow and see what they say. Thanks.

Can anyone out there with the same coach as me be able to share the part number for the front and rear airbags? I am having one heck of a time finding a consistent/reliable answer. So far (knock on wood), these airbags are the only part I haven’t been able to find for my coach. Thanks.

What I’m getting at here is as long as you have constant power to your furnace, you can rewire at your stat and A/C unit to open/close the two wires that go to the furnace. Just make sure your aren’t switching the wrong wires. The furnace HAS to have an uninterrupted power supply for the startup/cool down sequence. You would be wise to isolate all the other wiring on doing this however. Other option is manually connect the two wires when required and skip the whole thermostat rewire.

My apologies. I thought you had replaced with a dual unit. So if you jump white and brown at your stat, nothing happens? There should be 12VDC on that white wire. Are you able to locate the wiring going from your furnace to your A/C unit? Should be 4 wires. +12, -12 and two wires that originally would have connected to a relay in your rooftop control board that closes on demand for heat. We can reconfigure your wiring there to get this to work. Not for heat/cool, but it will get you heat for sure. That’s what’s important right now.

Tony can you please post a picture of the remote that came with your combo unit? All the manuals I’m looking at are able to control both heat and cool with the remote. …via the mode button. There is also a three minute start delay for the compressor to come on, could be more if it’s colder.

So to get this straight…you are replacing the rooftop A/C unit with a combo heat/cool unit and not using the stand alone furnace that came with the coach?

@Dave Pumphrey I think the OP has a newer rooftop unit that is both a heat pump and an A/C unit with only a four wire lead that would connect to the appropriate digital thermostat. From what I can tell, his only other option to run this unit since he doesn’t have the appropriate wall thermostat is to use the remote, which he also doesn’t have. I’m sure there’s a way to get his heat to work, but without proper drawings, I’m hesitant to offer advise. I don’t believe this is a simple system as in connecting the blue to get the furnace to kick on, there are communications at play. The manual I found that I think is for his unit only shows 4 wires connecting to the wall unit. This wall unit is quite intricate in features and options that could not be attained with standard thermostat wiring.

If it’s just 4 wires (yellow,black,green,white), then it is intended to be 2 wires for positive and negative, and 1 pair for communication. Therefore not able to jump it out unfortunately.

What’s the model of this RecPro Houghton unit? Couple more questions… You don’t have the remote for it? The wiring harness you used, is it only 4 wires or the same wires as in the picture you posted of the domestic stat?

If it came down to it you could always jump the terminals at the unit as needed