BradHend

Quite sure. No rear air tanks either. Just one tank up front.

Thanks for the input folks. Could a faulty check valve be causing my compressor to continue supplying air to the rig? I did a few full air downs and the compressor stopped supplying air when it should so I thought it was perhaps okay and was a result of sitting too long. Took it for a ride and stopped at a parking lot to check everything out. I noticed the air compressor was on again with the relief valve releasing air at the tank, did a quick step on the accelerator up to about 1200 RPM and it quit supplying air as it should. This rig, as @Robert92867 mentioned has hydraulic brakes, so there is no air dryer and no purge noise.

Does anyone know what these two devices do? They are monitoring the air system for something, just curious what exactly for. Also, does anyone have a picture of their air pressure regulator for a similar coach? Mine won’t shut off now, not exactly sure what it looks like. Thanks.

Does this coach have full air brakes, or is it just air parking brakes like my Cayman?

Ignition interlock as @walker mentioned, however nothing happens, or is there at least a click or a hum of some sort? Lights dim at all when you attempt to extend them? Salesman switch?

@JESPHDUSA If you goto an elevator equipment supplier in your area you could purchase a length of traveling cable. It is the power cord that runs with the elevator and supplies 120VAC for the lighting/fans as well as all the control wiring. The wires are all labeled, usually by numbers every few inches and depending on the manufacturer, color coded as well. You can get all different variations of wiring available inside, but a common one has (48) #18AWG, (4) #14AWG, (6) twisted shielded pairs and an RG6. I can post a pic if you’d like to see what I’m talking about. Also, Brady just came out with a new Bluetooth label maker. App based now so no bulky keyboard. The vinyl labels are very durable and you can set the label style to the wire marker label which makes for a nice personalized label that is sized perfectly for the wire size you set.

Quickserve is of no help?

Have you checked the voltages at your panel when running under generator power? I once had a weak breaker at the generator that would intermittently drop about 30-40 volts on the one phase due to internal corrosion which would then cause my A/C breaker to trip once in a while. Voltage goes down, current goes up. The detection circuit in the ATS didn’t notice because it was monitoring the other phase which was unaffected. If intermittent and one A/C stayed running, the in-rush starting currents of the other may have been too much. In my case, new breaker resulted in full voltage with no more problems.

Did you close the drain after

I just mean if your dash guage is only reading 70PSI, that’s too low to release your parking brake is it not? Does the guage drop with engine off but in run position?

🤨 I would assume then that you cannot release your brakes? If you shut the engine off do you hear air escaping anywhere?

No. It has a safety seal built in. The only air that will be released is the air from the hose you used when you disconnect it. Mis-read your question…yes. You will lose air. No big deal. Change it out and air back up. Make sure you use thread tape. Spray your air tank drain valves with some penetrating oil (I think they need it) and drain the system that way if you need to. Otherwise just slowly unturn the connector until air starts to leak out and continue when it stops.

Everything I run in my shop and the convenience inflator outlet on the motorhome are the industrial Type D. This is easily identified by the “V” form on the male connector. If the store you goto has the color coding system of blue or red or green, the one you want is red - Type D or industrial

Same. Front-most driver side bay. If you have one in the generator compartment, it is not a convenience air outlet.

I would be careful about using products that don’t bear the logo from a known standards organization. They may seem like a good idea or product, but they usually aren’t reliable if they haven’t been tested properly or are being used for purposes not intended. Even then, you need to be sure that the application is suited for the product.

I’ve reached out to a few companies that specialize in ECM repair, they are looking to see if they have a connector with the wire whips ready to splice. I was also able to find this. I think it would relate to your engine and ECM, appears to be the same plug on the last page, hopefully it’s of use. Detroit.pdf

Max boost on my Cayman with the 5.9 ISB and VGT turbo was always in the 25-30 PSI range. Bluefire gauge and instrument cluster guage were same, so I assume it’s correct.

Reach out to Visone RV. They will personally take a look and get back to you. They may be willing to sacrifice it.

Bob, I was in the same boat as you. In the end I just couldn’t justify the cost of either the replacement OEM ballasts, or the LED tube approach bypassing the ballast. I ended up installing LED sticky back strips. Much less power draw, much brighter light and no noise. I also added some secondary switches attached to more strips to act as night lights in a few, and extra lighting in the kitchen/bathroom/bedroom. So far I’ve had no issues and they’re on most the time when camping or stationed at home and the kids sleep in it. Everything of course was readily available on Amazon. I think I still have the old ballasts, some of which worked. You cover shipping and they’re yours. I was keeping them in case I wanted to switch back, but I won’t be. If I just turn on all the interior lights in my coach now that they are all converted to LED, the Xantrex display doesn’t show over 2A. That alone speaks volumes when/if boondocking.

Terrible situation you’re in. I honestly do feel for you. Is that coach at all moveable? Has the shop that quoted you 18K come down at all even after saying you’ll get it towed elsewhere? Is it stuck at that shop?

@powersltc I would have sworn that harness looks melted had you not stated otherwise. I guess you can ignore my comments regarding said.

I was more thinking that the breather tube may be melted and leaking along with that harness from say a manifold leak, but I’m not sure which end of the engine that connector is located on. Front/rear have different meanings to different folks. Takes some seriously abnormal heat to melt that wiring harness. I’d also be taking a good look at your radiator and CAC, the fan will blow that oil into the fins and dust and debris collect and clog it up. Snowball effect Lol. Ask me how I know about that particular situation.… Might add, Amazon sells some good Velcro adhered heat wrap for wiring harnesses. You can see I utilized it in the picture there. Works good. Saved that harness from the manifold leak right beside it.

Have an overheat condition recently? Is your crankcase breather tube in around there, and do you by chance have an exhaust leak? Odd that the harness would be melting like that.

Well good luck Tim. I’ll be curious to know how you make out.

Not crazy familiar with Jake brakes, but I do know there’s a fuse to check - just starting with the basics - and if you said you changed the engine, I recall reading something about the engine idle speed and engine oil level. Are they both reasonable?