BradHend

Do you know how they came to the conclusion that you need a new stator AND rotor? Did a bearing let go and short it or perhaps debris caused damage?

Keep safety in mind please. First, last and always.

Very interesting. Definitely let us know your results, and your wife’s opinion of them.

Simply put, heat. On my rig the vent fed by a hose that goes under the dinette blows a lot of hot air, but I find all three floor vents don’t blow nearly as much air. Have yet to really determine if this is a static pressure issue, or the ductwork has developed a leak somewhere. It will most likely be whatever is harder and more expensive to fix. Lol.

I’m quite confused myself as to what your point is after reading the back and forth here now. What happened that you felt the need to post this in the first place? I myself am absolutely guilty of getting off track or posting something that ends up being irrelevant to the original post. Not intentional, but it happens and we deal with it. Hate to say it, and I mean no disrespect, but your post was neither informative, it was of a personal opinion and was based on speculation and assumption... 🤷‍♂️

Perfect. Nice job and good thinking!

As others have said it is most likely inverter sine wave output, however - and I don’t mean this to be taken the wrong way - but are you using a listed and certified device? Not some cheap overseas device from Amazon or something? Could play a factor. I’m starting to get away from buying certain items from Amazon. As convenient as it is, the quality of a lot of the items I receive lately are terrible. You can pretty much tell what the quality of the product will be by the wording in the loosely translated box packaging and/or instructions. 😂

Have you thoroughly checked for a dodgy neutral connection? Coach side and supply side. Have you thoroughly checked for a dodgy neutral connection? Coach side and supply side. Did this all happen since the replacement of the inverter and what not?

I’d be happy to send you a chunk of elevator traveling cable. Mostly 18 guage, stranded, oil resistant insulation on the wires. All numbered every couple inches and color coded to a degree. 1-10 yellow, 10-20 orange 20-30 brown etc etc. I believe the one we typically use is 42 conductor, with some #14s, a bunch of twisted/shielded pairs as well in addition to the 42 #18AWG conductors. Just take the wires out and remake your our harness/loom. Let me know Do you have a confirmed wire count yet?

Did you happen to notice the coolant temperature when this occurred? Was the “Stop Engine” light on as well? Cayman a diesel Could be a lot of possibilities though. Only speculation without a scan tool or obvious issue really.

Light looks good. Which product is this? Is that wiring connection secure?

What’s wrong with it? Could it be repaired/rebuilt where needed?

Yup. I’d be getting the ladder out and measuring to the survey sheet of whichever vendor you are getting them from. I priced mine out with several different vendors and they all wanted different measurements. Some didn’t even care about the depth. @timaz996 So I can only assume they removed the entire aluminum top slide flange to get them to work? No issues with them yet?

Thanks for the input guys. I will be taking a closer look at things when I get home from the long weekend. As far as I can tell all systems are operational, so @Tom Cherry may be correct and it’s not much to worry about, but I will see what I can find and report back any findings. Have a great long weekend everyone! Just about to throw the chicken on my fire pit grill at the Owen Sound KOA. Fire is just about calmed down enough.

I don’t have a physical battery guage in the cluster, the 13.7v was an average reading from the Bluefire digital dash. It fluctuates between 13.5 - 13.8 and is still reading in that range irregardless of the Alt. Charge light. @Tom Cherry I will do as requested, I sometimes forget to use the search and default to posting the questions. I’ll try and keep that in mind more often. 😉

On my latest trip my “Alt. Charge” light keeps intermittently lighting up, or slightly pulsing on/off. I’m not overheating and the serpentine belt is fine. I did change the (4) 6V house batteries 3 weeks ago, but that shouldn’t have anything to do with it I don’t believe. I still maintain about 13.7 volts with the engine running and about 12.8 with it off and no issues starting. Any thoughts?

Just slid in my back.

Could I ask what you don’t like about the Koni shocks? I put 4 on my little R4R chassis and it definitely rides and handles better than what was there. My wife even noticed the improvement.

I installed all 4 Koni shocks in my driveway. As @Ray Davis said, attach the top first and compress to get the bottom to fit. Not a bad job at all. Hardest part was actually getting the rubber bushing freed from the bolt. Took some heat to get them free. 😉

Even the main cruise switch won’t kill your cruise?

Perhaps, there were originally zip ties holding other things along coolant lines prior and they held up. If they fail I will use stainless zip ties or a band clamp maybe. Main thing was to reduce damage to the fitting.

The engine lifting hook is there. The original hose was almost wore right through from rubbing on it. I just doubled it up with a leftover piece for extra protection.

@Agpopp Repairs are complete now. New manifold, reman Holset VGT turbo, reman EGR valve and all new oil and coolant lines to the turbo. New rad hoses all around including the back to back metal 90 degree piece that I had made. Everything else I broke in the process as well (oil pressure sending unit, the 2 black metal coolant lines that feed the EGR cooler, the pipe that mates the EGR valve to the EGR cooler etc. etc.) Did it all in my driveway. Huge pain but I got it done. Learned a lot and did lots of reading. Made a few mistakes along the way, but realized them and corrected. I think it was 7 of the 12 manifold bolts had snapped on removal, 3 of which I was able to weld a nut on and turn them out, the rest unfortunately I drilled out. I ended up helicoiling 4 holes, 2 needed it and 2 I had to as the threads were stripped. Used RemFlex gaskets at the manifold and turbo connections. Replaced all the banjo bolts, sealing washers and V-band clamps on that side of the engine. Replaced all the Breeze spring loaded clamps for all the CAC lines. The few test drives I’ve done appear to be a success. No more smoke, exhaust brake is nice and strong, lots of power on acceleration and it’s generating about 29lbs of boost with the hammer down and climbing small hills is not an issue anymore. Taking it up Tobermory way this weekend, hope all goes well. Thanks for your interest!

I was getting the coach ready to take the wife and kids for a test drive following some substantial exhaust/turbo repairs and it was quite hot inside so I decided to cool it down with the rooftop units since my dash A/C is out. The generator fired right up, blew a bit of white smoke for 10 seconds as usual and I heard the transfer relay kick in but no A/C units started up and I had them set to cool and the temperature was set quite low on them. I checked the status of the Intellitec remote display and it was completely dead. Panick started to set in. I opened the front to check the generator breakers, both were on. Checked for power at the transfer switch, 120V on both legs. Now I’m inside the coach sweating with both panels off checking everything over. I had the 12V on pin 2 when running on generator, no obvious fried board sections anywhere, everything seemed to be checking out and I was almost ready to admit defeat as I was googling M&M Electronics when I thought it was getting too dark inside to see properly. Turn the lights on, nothing. More panick set in. That’s when it dawned on me. Stupid me had the salesman switch off. Turned it on and the A/Cs started right up as did the lights. Feel like a dummy, but sometimes it’s the simplest things that get overlooked. I thought I was in for more repairs. 😅 Thanks for reading, hope you got a laugh at my expense.

@96 EVO I would agree. I don’t believe it’s the relief valve at the tank at fault as you can hear the compressor working harder and the lines really vibrate when it happens. Just wasn’t sure if a check valve would cause any of this. Monaco doesn’t even put an air gauge on the dash. Just a low air light. I will check the pressure in the tank when this is happening just to confirm. Only reason I went with a basic coach like this is so anyone can drive it need be. No license upgrades needed. And it will fit at all national/provincial/state parks.