Flyinhy

So, the latest in the saga. I traced down the problem with my gen set to either the windings in the stator being bad or the control board. The control board is a little pricey at 1100 from cummins or wait 4 months for flight systems to make a prototype and it "might work" because they dont have a board for the HDCAA generators just yet, but it is in the works. The stator is no longer available. I would have to send it out to have it rewound. A code 45 on the onan generator is such a vague problem, it could literally be anything under the sun. After testing my windings and finding no problem there I sent the control board to flight systems for them to test. I get a call back a week ago and they told me I was pretty much out of luck. I called cummins and ordered the part reluctantly (I hate dealing with cummins). Not more than 4 hours later, flight systems calls back and said they found a board for my unit for 250.....just my luck. I couldn't turn down a 250 dollar control board so I bought it too. I tried to cancel my order from cummins but it had already been shipped and there are no returns on electrical whatsoever. I can't say enough about flight systems. Very professional, very knowledgeable.....just an all around pleasant experience with them. I received my board from cummins today and she fired right up. I wish I would have waited a little longer before calling cummins but I guess now I have a backup control board if another chipmunk decides to make another summer home in my intake. Ivan you saved me on this one. My winding values were spot on. I almost took the stator off to have it repaired instead of the control board.....you're the man!!!

Scotty, I was gonna ask about a mobile app because everytime I add a shortcut to my phone it disappears from my home screen after a day or two. I'm just starting out on this journey and i love this site....a classified section would be helpful but for the most part, a fantastic site for the monaco owner. I wish I could go to the meeting this year and meet you guys. I've received so much useful info from different users and I can't thank you guys enough for your wisdom and experience.......

That's how I found my electrical problem in my distribution panel. The lights would flicker when I turned the microwave on. I changed out the whole panel and the breakers. No problems since.

Yep. You nailed it again. I just went back outside and checked my intake tube for blockage. Remember me saying I had chipmunks inside the coach making several nests? The lower tube was completely blocked with cotton, leaves and nest material.

Exact thing is happening to mine. I guess it finally gave up on me. I used the only manual I have to check for continuity and I have it on pins jp3 - jp6 .....so it's a dead short in the windings according to what im reading. Now to do a little research and figure out my best course of action......new or re-wind. This sucker only has 932 hours on it too......I wonder what caused it? Maybe a backfeed of power? Or just a deterioration of components over time ? I'm still going to wait to talk to the tech on Monday before I take the stator off. Good thing is , I have it completely torn down and it won't take much to get the stator off.....look on the bright side right? Mine is the HDCAA 10kw Thanks, that's exactly what I was looking for. My manual doesn't have those values......excellent!

Hello all. I recently tried to crank my generator just to check it and clean it a little more. I got the dreaded code 45 again. After 2 months of reliable cranking and running everytime I tried it , the 45 code came back. I've stripped down the shrouds and replaced both external relays, I took the control board out and there is no obvious signs of burn marks. I cleaned the slip rings and checked the brushes.....all seem fine. I contacted flight systems and I have an appointment to speak with a tech on Monday. Does anyone on here have the correct specs for the ohm readings on my connections at the generator to single out my exact problem? I know Ivan has had similar problems and it's gonna either be the stator, control board or the brushes and with my luck it's all three......lol.

I'm having issues with my CC as well..... https://www.rvtechlibrary.com › smartwheel Everything I am reading in the smartwheel manual usually points to replacing the smartwheel controller. Hope this helps

Grainger has a ton of "limit" or plunger switches.....usually around 10 bucks.

After reading your last post, I may have confused the idle with the cruise. Thanks for the insight.......

I was considering putting a low voltage led right into the "smartwheel" insert. Just a little light to indicate it's on Do you have to repeatedly press the resume button to get the rpm up? In the driveway I just hold it down and the rpms increase. I haven't thought about that. I will double check my lights.

I was wondering if I'm just overlooking something obvious but on my trips I try to set the cruise and I get nothing. I don't see any kind of light or anyway of telling if it has been activated while im driving. I took the smart wheel apart in the driveway and checked voltages and it works in the driveway. I can adjust , set and cancel rpm.....but when I get on the road it dosent work. I wish there was an led or a dash light to indicate it is on.

I bought the same thing today. A shallow box with a single plug but I'm also going to spend the money to replace my microwave. Good save Scotty!

I'm learning plenty and I'm sure I'm not doing some things right. I replaced everything with Square d breakers and components from home depot except for the one breaker from ace hardware that went to the invertor. It had the square d label on it but that seems to be the problem and now that you say that , its only on that one connection that im seeingbthis arching problem. I took the others off and they dont look like this one.........(do I need to put some dielectric grease on the connections?) I just replaced the one Breaker to the invertor and reset everything. Turned off batteries, cut shore power and turned off all breakers for 20 min. I just cut everything back on and I have power. That one Breaker from ace was the culprit.... I also think the microwave has a lot to do with this. It's been making some really strange noises. It had a Square d logo on it but who's to say it's not a Chinese imposter? That seems to be what the problem was. Everything is up and running as of now.

I did.....that's what the new breaker looks like. The way the breaker attaches to the buss bar is a really bad design

Morning doc..... I don't have a/c power going to the invertor. The breaker in the main distribution box in the bedroom is doing the same as before and the contacts are "arching". The 50 amp breaker I bought a month ago looks 20 years old I'm headed to home depot now to get a new one. Im not really crazy about how this box secures the breaker. The system is acting as if i have a dead short but no breakers have tripped. I downloaded the xantrex manual and once i have power to the invertor i will go through the remote and recheck everything. Morning JD, Yea....a little frustrated at this point. This is the part if the repairs that I dreaded. When it comes to electrical I get so confused as to how everything works. When I was wiring up the GMC all I could see was a blue raptor.....lol

I just went through as much as I knew to do. I checked for power on all legs of the transfer switch , generator on and off, power in and out.....120v to all breakers in the main. The xantrex invertor tries to come on and shuts off immediately. I've tried to reset it and it still does the same thing.....I unhooked the negative cable and let it sit for a few minutes while I pushed all reset buttons......still cuts off after a few seconds. 12.9v to all connections in rear switch/relay box. I think I'm pretty much done for the night.

Merry Christmas everyone! I made it home last week after reconfiguring my 16 sierra for my toad vehicle. It wasn't as hard as I thought it would be and she towed along just fine. Long story short , I've been waiting on parts for my aquahot system and I received them yesterday afternoon. I installed everything rechecked my fuel pressure, my spark gap and all my electrical readings.....she fired right up without missing a beat. I have let it run all day and it's working as it should. I just went outside to the coach and heat up some BBQ I had in the fridge and put it in the microwave for a minute ......I opened the door to get my food out and added a little bit of sauce and the lights flickered. The microwave readout lost power, the outlet below the microwave lost power. I went back to the main breaker box and checked the breakers......nothing tripped. I checked the readout on my xantrex .....no ac in at all. I went outside and checked my transfer switch and both green lights are on. I went back inside and shutdown everything. I shut the batteries off and the salesman switch....everything. I will let it sit for a few hours and recheck but if it's not back on by then I'll have to take everything out of my fridge and freezer. I don't know why this happened......it's all been running so good and it's been a long time since this happened. I had a lot of things turned on at the time. A small fan in the bedroom, the furnace , aquahot, water heater, TV, and a few lights in the living room. I don't think I had it overloaded but I didn't look at the readout before I turned on the microwave. It usually draws about 13amps. I can hear power come through the main breaker when I flick it on but it's not showing up on my readout. It's just a little frustrating after everything was running so well......

Did you try to restart the unit? It takes several hours for the side to get hot. In my case i had to jump the blue wire to purple ( 230 dc) bottom left control thermostat for the diesel side to ignite. Your problems sound similar to mine. Aquahot service dept is really helpful.

I have a similar coach and the same aqua-hot system. I'm still waiting on parts for mine. I will attach the holy grail for this system..... Hope this helpsAHE-100-02S Service Manual Rev. B 9-27-2011 (1).pdf

I understand now. I just looked at that.....it can never just be a simple solution.

It's mounted over the gas cook top.

My microwave is original and starting to show its age. Just a quick question for those of you who have swapped yours out. Can any type be used? It dosent have to be any special one does it? This is the one that I've been looking at. GE Profile PVM9179SKSS

I've looked for those but with work and weather getting in the way I haven't had much time to find them. I resealed the roof during this past week because I knew bad weather was coming. The temps are not getting much below 35° so the floor heater keeps the interior nice and toasty. If it gets too low I have a space heater. I should have nice enough weather tomorrow to be able to tear this sucker back down.

I finally had enough time to get a little deeper into the Aqua-Hot burner today. I took the burner out and checked for the electrode to fire. Bright blue spark across the electrodes for roughly 10 seconds. The next thing I checked was fuel flow and I got nothing. Not even a drip. I'll have to take it back apart and check the gear and the coupler to see if they're spinning.......but that's about as far as I could get before i had to get ready for work. I looked up the price of the fuel pump and apparently it's gold plated......$442.17 .....Hopefully that's not the problem. I've had several other trivial issues with this old girl in the last week but I'm still having fun trying to figure out all of this stuff.