Flyinhy

Wise words......lol .....

Ivan.... Just thinking about your trip a little and my travels through Mississippi I've stayed at several places with cranes and counterweight trucks and trailers. I don't know how you feel about casinos, but the Riverwalk in Vicksburg has a huge.....huge parking lot! It's not too far off 20 but plenty of space and the food isn't too bad. Plus, it's a casino.....nothing wrong with a few hands of blackjack for entertainment purposes. Then.....after you visit in McDonough head south on US 19.....that also is a 4 lane all the way to Tallahassee......27 is a little bit out of your way. 19 has a few more towns and a little more traffic but still a nice ride away from the interstate. 300 is another option further south on 75 near Cordele.....4 lane...about the same. Funny you say you're staying in Bremen...my house is about 10 miles from that cracker barrel and that exit is the 27 I'm talking about......straight shot to Tallahassee. Also, the only rv park I know of in McDonough is off Jodeco rd. ......Mt. Olive.....never been there but I've driven past it. Maybe they have a spot because High Falls isn't a nice place. A better option would be indian springs in Jackson

Yes.....I was afraid leaving the hot water switch on might burn up the heating element but I made sure to leave both switches on at all times. So.....with the diesel being the primary source of keeping the temp up its not supposed to run solely on electrical? I can't explain what happened. You have to remember I'm really new to this and I honestly don't know what happened. The only thing that changed between yesterday and today was, me killing the power to everything this morning. I thought maybe I had a bad switch. I am also only running on electrical at the moment because I've had hot water and I was waiting on a warm day to take the combustion chamber apart and change the nozzle because it will not fire on diesel. The temps here have been down to the 20s at night. I see where someone said it won't work on electrical at those temps but she hasn't missed a beat until I moved to this new parking spot.

I have a house just west of Atlanta and the traffic is awful at certain times. If it were me....I would try and get to 285 on 20 around 11 am.....usually smooth sailing from there south to 75 south......then down to Tallahassee, no question I take 27 ....4 lane all the way with 0 traffic.......I have a small place in panacea and make that drive once a month.....safe travels!

Okay, so .......I made sure I did everything you said. I read the manual, I went through the schematics and checked all electrical connections. Checked the level three times in the tank itself. The heat exchanger pumps were still working....and the coach stayed warm all night. But it hasn't been blowing "hot" air since this happened. I finally got frustrated enough to shutdown the whole system. Unhook from shore power......cutting off batteries and reboot the whole system. Apparently, the system recognized 30amp service and reduced power on its own. I now have hot water .......Is this what happened?

I will double check the level of the boiler tank before I leave and mark the expansion tank. After I bled the heat exchangers the other day I made sure to fill the tank but that doesn't mean it is still full. It's just funny how everything is working fine then all of a sudden something else happens right after I work on it......Luke warm showers are still technically cold in my book. One question is .....why do I have hot water coming out of the lines for the heat exchangers but not for the hot water, is it not heating the same thing?

I haven't noticed a change in the expansion tank level. I felt the circulation pumps earlier and they are hot to the touch but the copper water line (hot side) coming out of the A/H on the bottom is cold and that line is usually hot as fire. I will let it run for the night ....mark the tank where the level is now and recheck it again tomorrow. Unfortunately, I have to work tonight.

Well, the saga continues. After losing the rear heat pump I got busy working on the aqua hot system and getting all the heat exchangers working. Everyone of them came to life after bleeding out a the air and getting the check valves working except for the bathroom. I noticed water in the floor in the bathroom during that process and found a leak coming from behind the closet. Needless to say , I found the washing machine hook-ups....lol. A plastic end cap had sprung a leak and I replaced both with shutoff valves because eventually I want to add a washer and dryer. Now, I've lost hot water......I'm guessing from the schematics it's encapsuled inside the aqua hot system. The water is warm but it's definitely not as hot as it was. Just taking it one day at a time......

Thanks guys. I got 2 heat zones working on the furnace so far. I had to prime the pumps and unstick the check valves. This sucker almost runs me out of the coach it's so warm!!! This gives me a little more time to dive into the heat pumps on the roof. Funny thing is the front zone fans were working fine on the furnace before I started working on it but now....no fans at all. I'm still happy though.....2 working is fantastic!

Unstuck it.....lol. love it 😀!! I'm gonna give it a shot. I know the whole system needs a good going through. I hope that's all that's wrong with it. In the last 2 months I've spent quite a large amount of money......I'll have to sell my corvette if this keeps going. 😆

You got that right. Those guys don't get paid near enough to put up with what's going on in our country today.

Something similar happened to me yesterday. My bedroom unit quit working. I took the cover off and I could smell something burnt. The fan motor went bad. I can spin it and it will start working. I completely unhooked the wires from the junction box. I've tried to use the furnace with the motorhome on shore power but the vents never blow hot air. I took the cover off the aqua hot and I have hot water coming out and I can hear the circulation pumps working but that's about where I had to stop today.....more rain and cold weather coming through. Thank goodness I still have 2 more units on the roof that are still working. Good to hear your fix was simple and easy.....

James.....that part looks serviceable. I'm not familiar with that particular valve but it looks similar to a QR-1 valve and those only have an o-ring and a flat disc with a spring. Any small piece of dirt will not allow the disc to seal and cause a slight leak.

Test air leakage rate: With a fully-charged air system (typically 125 psi), turn off the engine, release the service brake, and time the air pressure drop. The loss rate should be less than 2 psi in 1 minute for single vehicles and less than 3 psi in 1 minute for combination vehicles.

Well, getting back to the members and being helpful......I have to say a big thank you to all who have helped me on my journey and I always want to contribute whenever I can. Thanks again guys!

Ivan was spot on. My icemaker line was leaking behind the fridge. I don't use the icemaker so at the manifold I turned off the valve. That valve also supplies the small sink lavatory or loo. I will cut the line for now and just block it off. It's just funny how things start leaking as soon as I start replacing faucets. I took that outside panel off but just behind that there is another wood panel glued and screwed in place. I will remove that panel when I get home in a few months.

I was moving the MH today after taking a shower and I noticed a steady drip while I had the big basement door open (just below the fridge) I don't see any access panels to whatever connection is there. Just by guessing, I'd say there is a "T" right behind the fridge. My refrigerator is a Samsung and it's screwed into place. Removing the fridge looks like the only way to access that area. Can anyone tell me what and if there are any connections there that might cause a leak?

I go from one extreme to another. The alternator seems to be charging again.....now on shore power its showing 14.9v . I have to move to another spot in the campground tomorrow.....I should be fine just moving a short distance and after reading several posts from you guys, my next move is to swap out the BIRD and the isolator to the Blue Sea ML-ACR. Meanwhile I'm changing out all the electrical outlets. I've never seen push in wire connectors on electrical outlets like this before. 😳

I had the alternator rebuilt as soon as I bought the coach. That's when it did this before. I ended up taking it back off and having it bench tested. About an hour ago I looked at the voltage readings.....14.1v I turned the key on the ignition to see if it said the same on the gauge.....the voltages immediately dropped down to 13.2v. I went to Walmart to get a few things for lunch tonight and when I returned the voltage was 13.0v I checked at the batteries and the house batteries are 13.2 and the chassis batteries 12.9. The maintainer screen says charging at .2 and green light is on House is 13.6 Engine battery volts 13.1 I turned off all DC voltage switches....13.8 as of right now. I have to go to work at 4 Maybe I damaged the batteries by running them so low???? They got down to around 10volts....

This has happened before but not to this extent. Before when I plugged it in the transfer switch started humming and within a few minutes it was charging and everything went back to working. I didn't pay that much attention to listen for the transfer switch. The alternator was working perfectly the night before when I went to weigh it and after i unhooked it from my house. The trip was only 200 miles. I did not run the generator after I unhooked from the house. I did run it the night before to make sure it ran. As of right now....everything is working as it should. It does have the surge guard just below the transfer switch. I've been trying to educate myself with the invertor and the control board as much I can.

First off I want to say thank you to all who haved helped me on this journey so far. It's been fun and frustrating at the same time and I'm probably going to need some therapy after I get all the bugs worked out of this coach. 🙃 So.....after the coach being plugged in for several weeks at home. I decided to go weigh it and try to figure out what the actual weights were and to adjust my pressures accordingly. I started my drive yesterday to get the motorhome closer to my work because my apartment lease is up at the end of this month. I turned on the invertor to run the fridge and nothing else.. About half way through my drive I stopped at a rest area and stretched my legs.....I took a picture of my gauges and noticed the volts were below 13. I figured it would go back to charging once started driving. I get about 40 miles from the camp site and I could see the gauge move. Lower and lower it went. I get off my exit and I was below 11 volts. I noticed the trans starting shift differently (low voltage) and hoped I would make it. I get checked in and get just in front of the parking pad.....no shifting. I used my jumper cables to connect house and chassis batteries and boom.....she shifted. I get her into the parking spot and hooked up shore power. Extended slides, and turned on the heat pump. I left and came back a few hours later and everything was dead. My charge controller showed no indication of charging. My xantrex invertor usually shows either bulk charge, float charge or absorption. I tried to turn everything back on but when I enable operation mode.....for whatever reason it says low voltage and shuts down.. I checked the reset buttons on the invertor itself. All seemed fine. There are 5 total.....two hidden on the back and 3 large black resets on the front. I turned everything off and went to the apartment to get some sleep and when I get back here this morning.......it's back on. Even my maintainer shows charging on the display now. I have my handy dandy fluke and I'm safe at this campsite until Sunday. Then I have to move again. At the moment .....I have heat pumps working front and back. I have a lamp turned on , the water heater on, the TV and DVD player on. The fridge is on , the microwave has power and the floor heater is set at 78 and working.

Thank goodness I still have an apartment up here. I should probably start a new thread on this. This is the second time it's done this.

295/80/22.5 toyo......I have a little deeper issues at the moment. Just came back to the motorhome and everything is dead. Even hooked to shore power my batteries aren't charging