Instrument cluster

[jfasano88]

My instrument panel does not work. Everything is off no fuel,no temperature readings on transmission and engine temperature, speedometer, rpm, front air and rear air and the instrument panel. I replaced all my batteries today (all six). Stoped at rest area and all went dead. It tried to come back on and shut down. I check the instrument fuse and it is ok. 
does anybody now how to repair it. I think there are relays but don’t know for sure

john 2009 Camelot kfq 

[John Haggard]

Did everything work Normal?

To the rest area ?

[jfasano88]

I don’t know what you mean but it all worked normal until I pulled into the rest and everything went dead. Are there relays for the instrument cluster? I believe that I have a bad wire connection but don’t where to look. 

[vito.a]

Check the grounds.  If necessary fabricate a new ground wire.  

[John Haggard]

3 minutes ago, jfasano88 said:

I don’t know what you mean but it all worked normal until I pulled into the rest and everything went dead. Are there relays for the instrument cluster? I believe that I have a bad wire connection but don’t where to look. 

I would start at the battery connection 's and make certain nothing came loose.

Also

Check any fyses that may be in the battery compartment 

[Frank McElroy]

Since you just had your batteries replaced I would first verify that all the battery connecting cables are tight and that you have power to other dash components and that it's just the instrument gauges that don't work.

If I recall correctly, you have a Medallion instrument cluster with a rectangular ILB display module that contains a LCD display and warning lights.  If that is the case and if nothing works, I'd focus on the 4 pin power connector on this display module.  All your electronic dash gauges feed off this module.

The pin out diagram and the attached picture of that 4 pin connector should help you troubleshoot if you have this setup.

[jfasano88]

32 minutes ago, Frank McElroy said:

Since you just had your batteries replaced I would first verify that all the battery connecting cables are tight and that you have power to other dash components and that it's just the instrument gauges that don't work.

If I recall correctly, you have a Medallion instrument cluster with a rectangular ILB display module that contains a LCD display and warning lights.  If that is the case and if nothing works, I'd focus on the 4 pin power connector on this display module.  All your electronic dash gauges feed off this module.

The pin out diagram and the attached picture of that 4 pin connector should help you troubleshoot if you have this setup.

 

Thanks where do I look for those connections. Under the dash or inside the dash ?

[Frank McElroy]

I took that picture of the rear of the module by opening an access panel on the top of the dash.  Those connections are on the rear of the Medallion LCD display module.  That pin out connection diagram shows both the front and rear of that module.  Hopefully your camelot has a similar access panel on top of your dash like what I have on my Dynasty.

[birdshill123]

 There are also connections in the DS armrest.

[bill4029]

Thanks guys.. I have a similar JITTERY display on my 80 Beaver Marquis display and am about to tear into the grounds too..  do you have that drawing in a PDF so I can enlarge it better to view ?  Thanks!

[jfasano88]

On 12/7/2020 at 5:58 PM, vito.a said:

Check the grounds.  If necessary fabricate a new ground wire.  

How do I fabricated a new ground and where do I do this and where is the negative wire that I need to fabricate?

I believe I found my problem it is the ignition key. If I play with my key and wiggle it the instrument panel tries to come on. 
how do I remove the casing around the ignition key.  I hope it is easy to get too. 
John 2009 Camelot kfq 

[vanwill52]

If you have an access panel over top of the instrument panel, OR your coach has one of those Lift-Up dash coverings, it is fairly easy.

Look at your ignition key nacelle.  There may be a tiny pinhole about the size of a paper clip.  Insert a paper clip and you can withdraw the lock cylinder and key.  Look for a YouTube video--there are probably dozens of them.  Once the lock cylinder is removed, you purchase the special tool to unscrew the nacelle from the ignition switch...or struggle with it until you get it unscrewed.  Usually one multi-pin connector is attached to the back of the ignition switch.  Remove that connector and take the ignition switch to any auto parts store to match it up.  Many Monaco's used a Chevy truck ignition switch from the 90's(?).  Someone may chime in with a part number.  You can reuse your key and lock cylinder--they do not come with the new ignition switch normally.

IMHO, the reason this is such a common failure item is that Monaco ran too many loads through this switch, much as they did with the headlight switches.  Many members have added relays to reduce the total load on the switch.