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Closet Door Latches


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Sliding mirrored wardrobe doors. 

When we bought the coach the seller said we would break these.  Yup, after 4 1/2 months the first one snapped, and I had been ever so careful, too. 

51glc60qFPL._AC_SL1050_.jpg

http://www.rvdesigner.com/images/products/imageView.asp?id=205&t=items

IMO it's a BAD DESIGN to begin with, and it peels the faux brass off where it rubs the door's plastic frame.  I found replacements . . . . but why if it's just going to break again?

Has anyone replaced with these?

51a2V9ULzqL._AC_SL1200_.jpg

Amazon, $5.76 and 15 lbs of pulling force.  Seems like the perfect replacement.

https://www.amazon.com/WOOCH-Magnetic-Stainless-Hardware-Closer-Sliver/dp/B07N2NQ992/

Thoughts?

- bob

Edited by cbr046
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I purchased a number of those plastic latches over a number of years but finally decided not to spend anymore of my hard earned money on a worthless POS. I then purchased two spring loaded shower rods in brass color to match the closest frame so once we have the closet packed and ready to travel I simply adjust the length of each rod to fit snugly into each bottom rail. Those doors have never moved a mm and no more broken latches to replace.

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Gary, that part you show in your first pic is prone to breaking as well. Even installed one that only lasted one closing.

I replaced them with small blocks of hardwood with grouves cut in them. These are holding up well after several years.

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37 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

Gary, that part you show in your first pic is prone to breaking as well. Even installed one that only lasted one closing.

I replaced them with small blocks of hardwood with grouves cut in them. These are holding up well after several years.

Can u post a picture? 

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Lets try this.

The blocks are made from leftover 3/4" oak tongue & groove flooring. The groove is the perfect size, and place for the latch to hold the door nice and tight.

I sanded off the gunstock stain and made my own cherrywood. Could have been a little darker, but, I'm not a perfectionist. 

20210630_134444.jpg

20210630_134557.jpg

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2 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

Ben, it appears that your latching mechanism is not the same as what people are discussing on this thread that had a plastic latch as seen in the very first post.

Yeah, that post was for Gary, who appears to have the same latches as myself.

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48 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

Lets try this.

The blocks are made from leftover 3/4" oak tongue & groove flooring. The groove is the perfect size, and place for the latch to hold the door nice and tight.

I sanded off the gunstock stain and made my own cherrywood. Could have been a little darker, but, I'm not a perfectionist. 

20210630_134444.jpg

20210630_134557.jpg

Nice job 👍.

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  • 1 month later...
On 6/29/2021 at 11:34 AM, cbr046 said:

Has anyone replaced with these?

51a2V9ULzqL._AC_SL1200_.jpg

Amazon, $5.76 and 15 lbs of pulling force.  Seems like the perfect replacement.

https://www.amazon.com/WOOCH-Magnetic-Stainless-Hardware-Closer-Sliver/dp/B07N2NQ992/

- bob

There's significant force required to open the doors, and without a pulling handle you have to kinda dig your fingers in the crack.  It's not hard, but a handle would be convenient.   

Now for some post-trip feedback . . . .

If the coach rocks enough (and mine rocks a LOT due to some of the places I pull into) the doors will unlatch.  One sliding door unlatched twice and the other once during my 1,600 mile trip.  I'll install a second set of magnetic latches and maybe a pull handle of sorts to make opening easier. 

I forgot to latch the shower door during the trip.  Never thought it would be necessary, but at some point it swung open with enough force to bend the hinge and prevent closing of the door.  Ahhh, another thing to fix! 

- bob

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