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Hot water heater help


Corgidad
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You have to remove the red hose. Then you can turn the Tee and the ball valve together to unscrew the Tee. When it's out you separate the valve and the Tee. 

I'm not sure if it was your objective but it would be a good idea to replace the check valve that the Tee screws into while you're at it.

The nut that you circled is for opening the ball valve (not necessary) or turning the whole valve to tighten it on to threads like the Tee.

Edited by Tom Wallis
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Donald D you are 100% correct. I did it about month back. The one in the pic has plumbers tape on it so it’ll come off easily, 

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36 minutes ago, Corgidad said:

Has anyone had to change the plastic T in the picture. If so how did you do it, I can’t quite figure it out. 

FBCB1D59-22F2-4BD1-A7DD-A6948CEE2845.jpeg

Yea welcome to plumbing..

gona have to take the clamp off the 90 degree brass fitting  and buy a Pex clamp with Pex  plyers and hook it back up.

 

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Thanks everyone, Rick A it seems the circled nut is part of the bypass valve and doesn’t turn independently. I may be wrong and will try again holding the valve with vice grips. The red line on the far right looks like the head was installed on the valve before the line do I can’t turn it. 
And yes the T is leaking where it screws into the HWH that’s why the project 

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The circled nut is part of the ball valve. The check valve is screwed onto the water heater and the plastic Tee is screwed into it. You will probably have to cut the red hose and replace it. Like Michael Powell said, you'll need a crimp tool in order to get do that.

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5 hours ago, dleeadkins said:

 

I believe the nut that I circled will turn and unscrew from the plastic tee

 

You’re mistaken.

4 hours ago, Corgidad said:

. I may be wrong and will try again holding the valve with vice grips.

You’re not wrong.

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My valve started to leak and due to its location the only way to disassemble mine was to remove the entire hot water heater. And FYI i checked all my friends, tried to rent the tool, it was a total dead end! I finally found what i needed at Lowes, there i bought the clamps, old clamp removing tool, and the installer for about $100., i carry them with me now. Oh i can share a lesson i learned, when you try to cut off the old clamp with some type of saw… be carefull you DO NOT nick the sealing barb thats machined on the brass fitting🤦‍♂️ Depending on how deep the nick is that fitting will leak😖65BAD1FE-2A6F-4557-9511-9049DBA0E8E8.thumb.jpeg.2ceaf9a4348878cf7d17e8628609e226.jpegAC3F8523-F5B2-4BD8-9904-B546248555D1.thumb.jpeg.ee97f94a48b2c775607a1760644912a2.jpeg409619B8-1C35-4C6A-8EF3-C10120BFB741.thumb.jpeg.99df413439a18349ecc378da5fc59c69.jpeg

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Sorry if I didn't explain well. The bypass valve with the circled nut will unscrew from from the Tee only not where it's located. You would have to turn the whole bypass valve and there's not room to do that where is.

After removing the red hose you'll be able to rotate the bypass valve and the Tee together and unscrew the Tee from the check valve behind it in the tank. It's a good idea to replace the check valve while you have everything apart because they do clog up and go bad and then you'll have no hot water.

When you have the new Tee screw it back into the bypass valve and reverse the process. It's best to get a new piece of the red pex house and the proper clamps. That hose is very stiff so when you're tightening the Tee bypass assembly into the check valve stop just a bit short of where it should stop. That way you can put one end of the red hose on the bottom and have room to align the hose an nipple at the at the top before you turn the threads in the Tee the last little bit.

I hope this is helpful.

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7 hours ago, dleeadkins said:

I believe the nut that I circled will turn and unscrew from the plastic tee.

34FB810C-E7EE-4E23-B316-11F37A68BEB1.jpeg

The red hose has been spliced already in the middle,   makes me think the valve, T, and all has been off before.   Anyway that looks like the secret rotate the T and everything attached to it until it all is loose.

Edited by Ray Davis
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Hello everyone and thank you for all the information. The red hose had to come off first in order to remove everything else ( had to cut it and make a new one and it had to be installed last), it was never spliced as I have owned the coach from day 1 ( I ordered it straight from the factory as I had a lot of the interior changed) so it was installed like that from the factory. Once I cut the red hose everything was quick and easy. Again a big thank you to everyone who took the time to post, it was all very helpful.

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