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ISC 8.3 radiator reservoir tank hose fitting threaded to radiator pipe thread leaking


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2004 HR Scepter RR8S side radiator chassis with ISC. Noticed coolant on storage bay floor a few days ago. Found out that the threaded/barb fitting that run from the return radiator pipe up to the radiator fill reservoir is leaking at the thread. I thought it might be the hose fitting but tightened it up and it is seeping at the thread. Hose measures about 1.6" out side so a pretty big fitting. Getting a wrench on this is not going to be easy. I will be changing ira

Posted accidentally. I will be changing the air cleaner and having it out will give me much more room. This is pretty close to the low point in the system and pulling the hose will mean most all of the coolant will have to be drained.

Any one have to tighten the fitting? May have to buy a deep socket to get on all 6 points to turn the fitting.

HRS radiator leak thread.JPG

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My advice is you should not just tighten that fitting.... things like that do not just start leaking for no reason.... take it apart, something there is probably cracked... if not some fresh thread sealant (not teflon tape) may (MAY) seal things up.... good luck!

But trying that stop leak product Ivylog  suggests sounds like a good (easy) first step...

Ken

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I would use caution when tightening or looseing the brass fitting not to twist and damage the welded nipple.

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Mike, so when i repaired my cooling system on of the things going on was that same hose, when it got cold it would drip, i had tightened it a couple times, washed it off an the next day it was wet again. One of the things i noted is that tube, if it starts to leak, just get a new one! I used a bead blaster after i had it out to clean it up an once clean i saw there was no getting “mine” undone, i didnt even try. It had fused itself MANY years ago. What i did do was to replace that old rubber hose with some really nice silicone hose that i was able to purchase from a truck part supply, if you do the same besure to buy the hose claps made for use with silicone hose (big difference, the old style clamps will cut into the new silicone) All my hoses were original (and hard) so giving the cost of coolant you might want to concider replacing the others. Now because of access i DID NOT replace the entire lengths of the heater hose, instead what i did do was to cut 1 foot from where the heater hoses went to the engine and installed two ball valves, so incase one did spring a leak i could simply turn them both off an proceed along my way.05CBD662-CBF2-44AE-AEEA-50A875DEDF3D.thumb.jpeg.eb53cb45fe105c39ab064d9ea78ba453.jpeg52DAC2E5-8C95-427F-94A7-1057BDF2CAEB.thumb.jpeg.760d97a4c12bb9301d408def356a641b.jpeg

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  • 1 month later...

Hard to tell from your photo, but it looks like you don't have enough 1-1/4" npt coupling welded on that tube to put a wrench on to counter the torque of removing the brass fitting.  I pulled my barb off today, but as you can see, there is a lot of heavy wall coupling welded to the tube to put slip joint pliers on.  Be prepared to have a back up plan (having another half-coupling welded on the tube?) in case of disaster.

IMG_2729.JPG

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  • 3 months later...

Follow up to post. I did follow the advice given above about not trying to reseal the barb thread. Decided to replace with silicone hose. Have a couple of thousand miles on MH with no leaks. I can be tough to determine actual leak point. It was under the hose and looked like it was at the thread.

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