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I used ISSOPRO for my dash gauges. Fuel pressure and pyrometer. I used gloshift for the mechanical gauge in the rear. 
 

I liked the ISSOPRO because I could select ones that looked like they matched the original gauges. Also I had them make me “special” harness, at 50 foot (for my 36’ rig). I cut off less than 2 feet on the fuel pressure and cut-off about 8 to 10 feet on the pyrometer. 

you will need a snobber for the fuel pressure  

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3 hours ago, tmw188 said:

What gauge brand have any of you used in the cockpit to monitor fuel pressure? I have a GlowShift gauge and wire harness in hold on AMZ but not sure of the quality/ accuracy of them? 

That's what I used.  Haven't had any problem with it.  Seems pretty accurate.  My pressure when I turn the key is ~17 psi, when I drive it is ~15 dropping a little with a hard pull.  I did see a decrease on my last trip so opted to change my filters. 

My neighbor is a car guy and I asked what he used but it was way to rich for my blood.  Can't remember what he recommended. 

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32 minutes ago, tmw188 said:

Were either one of you able to find a conduit chase to fish the wiring thru? 

I had previously looked for an open conduit without success.  The ones that were run in my basement between the chassis rails were all used.  I had tried to use a wire snake front to back without success.  You might be able to use a flexible semi ridget snake and get lucky!!

But I decided to run my own conduit, which was easier then I anticipated but still a challenge.    I bought 2 pieces of 3/4" conduit.  I extended my slide and pushed it from the front.  In the front I routed it through the holes cut in the cross members, this made it easier to hit the hole where the other wiring was on the passenger side.  The slide mechanism on the drivers side pretty much eliminated running it there.   I as able to push it across the top of the fuel tanks but then got stuck.  Had to drop the ceiling in the center basement bay so I could hellp guide across the basement compartment.  Added the second piece of conduit and pushed/pulled some more.  Got stuck again but I was able to crawl into to the smallest bay where my inverter was and reach up and grab the end and pull/push it across that compartment and then across the top of the water tanks and get it to daylight in front of the rear axle.   20' of conduit for my 39PKD was just enough. 

I ran my fuel pressure sense wire through the conduit and later a set of 5 wires, I needed one wire for the Bluesea ML-ACR switch in the front.  Still have 4 spare wires run into my passenger side rear electrical bay. 

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I found the oem conduit chase on the drivers side had the least amount of wires in it. I opened it up (removed the spray foam), then I have some 2’ fiberglass rods that screw together (from Amazon) put them in and got it through. Pulled a rope through and tied it up on both ends. (left the rope).

Later, I was able to get the fuel return line plus two sets of wire lines pulled through.  I left the rope in and resealed the conduit - just in case I need another at some point. But it is getting harder to get stuff through. 
 

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19 hours ago, tmw188 said:

What gauge brand have any of you used in the cockpit to monitor fuel pressure? I have a GlowShift gauge and wire harness in hold on AMZ but not sure of the quality/ accuracy of them? 

I bought a car that had Glowshift gauges installed. I wasn't impressed with their quality.

I use Auto-Meter in my race car, and have always had excellent results with them.  I also used them along with an IssPro EGT Monitor in my Ford Superduty.

IssPro is also a top quality brand, and they cater to diesel applications.  They're pricey, but in my opinion worth it.

I still haven't installed either in my coach, but I intend to.

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Well without looking back I may have posted to the wrong thread. There was some talk that galv fittings on the return T should not be used. There was something too about you shouldn’t use a fitting off the return side of the pump but use just the fuel line supplied in a sweeping 90? 

7 minutes ago, tmw188 said:

Well without looking back I may have posted to the wrong thread. There was some talk that galv fittings on the return T should not be used. There was something too about you shouldn’t use a fitting off the return side of the pump but use just the fuel line supplied in a sweeping 90? 

It was this thread pg 5 if using a mobile device. 

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I did a search on use of galvanized pipe and diesel fuel all the articles state not to do it.  But, the ~3" of fittings might have a negligible amount of impact.  I guess time will tell, 

I checked at Lowes and they have brass fittings for ~$35 if it is worth swapping out.

Well above my pay grade.

 

I thing there was concern by some on using the TEE and elbow to connect the vent line.  I haven't had a problem with mine. 

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1 hour ago, tmw188 said:

There was something too about you shouldn’t use a fitting off the return side of the pump but use just the fuel line supplied in a sweeping 90? 

Todd,  What you may be referring to is FASS do not want a 90 degree fitting right off of the FASS assembly, but the photo you linked with a 90 degree sweep fitting should be fine (good) (not a problem)..   90 degree elbow fittings are restrictive of flow, 90 degree sweeps are not (so much, hardly at all) restrictive.

Also, the 90 degree sweep fitting in the photo coming off the FASS system seems to be steel with a nickel or cad plating, not zinc...   Only the fittings at the fuel tank photo are zinc.   I kind of believe the zinc is not a major issue, being in the 'flow' verses being the 'container'..... mostly due to time of exposure... 

Ken

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That’s correct that’s why I choose that 90 deg sweep elbow, it actually came with the pump kit. I purchase another one (black) in the photo to use on the return looking down onto the T. Yeah I wouldn’t use a hard 90 but got the impression from the poster they didn’t want any 90 fittings on it.   I agree with the logic on the galv fittings not sitting in the fuel but only passing thru. I used all sweeping fittings on the install. That nylon tie strap was just temporary in the one photo. The 180’s were necessary in two locations. At the lift pump they came in and out side by side and couldn’t just tie them together. 

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