FASS Install

[tmw188]

With Jim’s install he has the original 90 fitting with the check valve out of the flow stream of the FASS return by putting it on the branch of the Tee, that would solve the issue. When he referred to that check valve I had concerns but when I looked at his picture I noticed he relocated it from its original location in the bung. For that reason I went in to edit my post above. 

[Rocketman3]

Well I just finished installing my FASS pump in my 2000 Dynasty.  Took one (long) day. 

Here are my thoughts of what went good, bad or different than I expected…

I ordered the TS D08 100G from Parleys Diesel in St George Ut.  (Which is for a 99 Dodge Ram.- ironically my brother has that truck - & it is still running).  

Because I was installing in the rear (no extra room by the fuel tank in my 38’ Monaco), I needed a longer return hose than what was provided. After calling around, I called FASS and had them ship me a 50’ roll - I was glad I choose that length I only cutoff about 6’ - so I 45’ would have worked. 
 

 

 

The vent check value and bung fitting looked like 1/2” - but it turned out to be 3/4” - oh well another trip to the hardware store. 
 

 

For the electrical, I found a ignition in the terminal fittings then I used that to drive a relay, which powers the fuse block on the left side. The FASS fuse is in that block. The ecm fooler relay is added on the top right.

Here is the installed pump. One note, the factory installed flare or AN-8 fitting for the return to tank line, I wanted to change it from a straight to a 90 pointed down, so I called FASS, and they said no- there is a spring behind that fitting that controls the pump pressure.  So the blue hose just has a tighter bend than I would prefer.  I just reused the original fittings into the FASS pump for the input and output.

Finally, I installed a pressure gauge and the secondary filter. The electrical pressure gauge for the cockpit will get installed next week - when it arrives.

It worked the first time - No leaks !  One cool thing is if the fuel cap is off, I can see the stream of diesel fuel falling from the return to tank  

Thanks for all the good information in the thread!

[jacwjames]

Clean install, looks good.  Glad you got it done.   Did you bypass the original lift pump?

Not knowing what interval I'll have to change the FASS filters I bought some extras.  Storing these is always a challenge but what I found was that I can fit a set into a large/tall plastic coffee container and it fits on the shelf I have above the propane tank right next to the FASS pump I installed.

[Rocketman3]

Yes I bypassed the original lift pump, I got those fittings from Amazon. 
I also ordered an extra set of filters for the FASS. I ordered the same shorter filters, because I didn’t know exactly where/how it would install and I was concerned that the longer ones would be too big. Turns out they will work fine. 

[jacwjames]

I had to order the short ones since I mounted my system over the propane tanks so limited room underneath.

I have been monitoring both IRV2 & Monacoers for any info on change intervals for the FASS system.  I think I remember one poster had 2-3 years but I know that's dependent on drive time and quality of fuel. 

I've got ~10K on mine so far and I can't see any indication of reduced pressure yet. 

[Cubflyer]

Nice job!

I have over 10k on my FASS filters, and I started with terrible (black) fuel.  Struggled keeping the genny running (filters stopping up) at first, but now that I've 'polished' my old fuel and continue to 'polish' my new fuel, the genny filters seem to have returned to a 'normal' service cycle...  Engine has run flawlessly with the FASS 'lift pump' running full time.  Seeing no less that 17psi under high load, 18-20psi at lower loads.  Plan to replace FASS filters when psi gets down to 10psi.... based on psi instead of mileage or time.

Ken

[timaz996]

I installed mine about the same and I'm also happy.

"One cool thing is if the fuel cap is off, I can see the stream of diesel fuel falling from the return to tank "

Tim

[TommyL]

2008 Camelot ISL 400 tag axle. Has anyone installed FASS on HP rail. Clean fuel  would be a plus . I put a Ag chip on a few years ago, it really improved power and down shifting at optimum speeds. But had to unhook it due to throwing codes ( low fuel rail pressure) it might take 1000 miles or 10 ,maybe FASS would let me use the chip again? All  the posts have been for Caps unless l missed one. Thanks Tommy 

[Happycarz]

They fit in nicely in the back with easy access.

[TommyL]

2008 Camelot ISL 400 tag axle. Has anyone installed FASS on HP rail. Clean fuel  would be a plus . I put a Ag chip on a few years ago, it really improved power and down shifting at optimum speeds. But had to unhook it due to throwing codes ( low fuel rail pressure) it might take 1000 miles or 10 ,maybe FASS would let me use the chip again? All  the posts have been for Caps unless l missed one. Thanks Tommy 

Harry did you leave your 30 seconds electric fuel pump in place? Original water separator filter plugged in, I have room up front,thought maybe fuel tank to FASS then original fuel line to engine bay ,leave everything else alone and original. I know that’s a lot of filters but simple. O yes return line from FASS to tank and electrical. Any thoughts. Thanks TommyL 

[jacwjames]

My original lift pump started to leak in late 2020 so early last year I bit the bullet and installed the FASS system.  I left the original lift pump in place but removed the hose coming from the primary filter and tank and put a union in and then plugged the ports on the old lift pump.  Had to install a relay to fool the ECM into thinking the pump was working, the ECM just has to sense the voltage passing through the pump and the relay does that. 

I ultimately removed my primary filter but left my secondary filter in place.  I did install a pressure sensor on this filter so I can see the pressure at the injection pump.  So far so good, I've put ~11K miles on it so far.  Not 100% sure but I think my rig might be a little more responsive when I give it fuel and I have been seeing boost pressure up to 24 psi sometimes, which I normally ran under 23 psi.  But it may just be wishful thinking on my part. 

I have read of a couple people who installed a FASS system on a Cummins similar to yours.   I think the primary reason was for better fuel delivery to injection pump plus the polishing benefit. 

[TommyL]

Definitely for better fuel delivery,40’ a long to suck fuel! Cleaning diesel top of list. Been sitting a lot this year. Fooling ecm’s  or any DC on these things is not my strong suit . Wiring  a house is simple next to a MH. Was wondering what to do with the 30 second electric fuel pump. Thanks TommyL 08 camelot isl 400 FASS install. Maybe leave everything original just add FASS?

[Cubflyer]

1 hour ago, TommyL said:

TommyL 08 camelot isl 400 FASS install. Maybe leave everything original just add FASS?

My only concern with leaving the original lift pump, if the isl lift pump is like the isc lift pump, it is a common problem with them leaking.  I would "Plumb" around it as Jim J said... that is what I did with mine.  

The 40' "suck" is not that big of a problem for the FASS pump, the problem with the 40' "suck" is for the injector pump, especially when trying to suck fuel 40' with a leak (the original lift pump) in the "straw".....   My injector pump seems to love the positive pressure on it's inlet as well as the clean "polished", air free fuel....

Ken

[cbr046]

1 hour ago, TommyL said:

Maybe leave everything original just add FASS?

I did!

- bob

[jacwjames]

When I was contemplating installing my FASS system I got some good advice from VanWill,  He said when he was doing his he called Cummins about leaving the original lift pump in place saying that the added fuel pressure may cause problems.  Too much fuel being pushed through the return line. 

So with that I decided to bypass. 

Van also said to be sure to run a separate return line.  Since I mounted my FASS system in the front that was easy. 

[TommyL]

Up front by the fuel tank is where I was thinking.Short fuel line from tank to FASS original fuel line from FASS to engine bay.Short return line to tank.My ISL400 appears to be a different primer pump than I’ve seen on these forums.Hence the reason for wondering if I could leave everything original from FASS at fuel tank  to injection pump.

[Happycarz]

Tommy, I left the electric lift pump in place. The pump for the HPCR is different than the earlier version used on the CAPS engines. 

When installing my FASS system, I took the in and out lines off the original primary fuel filter and connected them them to my FASS pump.  Now the original primary (water separator) filter is abandoned.  I did have to run the return hose from the FASS all the way back to the tank, though. I didn’t have to fool the ECM with my installation.

 

[TommyL]

Thanks Harry, yours looks just like mine. I may just duplicate  your installation for the sake of my uncertainty. Thanks everyone for your time. TommyL 

[jacwjames]

I had not changed fuel filters for quite awhile since the rig had minimal usage while I was building the house.  I had filled it up in 2016 and I used both Biobor and Statron when I filled it up.  T he rig only made some sort trips.  Fast forward to 2020 I knew I was going to used the rig so I started siphoning fuel out of the tank for my tractor.  I ended up using +80 gallons, never did see any signs of algae etc.  Drove it to Sam's and put 85 gallons of fuel in. 

I installed my FASS system early last year, still hadn't changed fuel.  I took a trip last week and did notice my fuel pressure under heavy load was dropping to ~12 psi, lower then it had been.  I had put on about 11K miles on the rig.  So I was in the process of doing and oil change and lube job so I decided to change fuel filters.  My original secondary fuel filter (with the water in fuel sensor) looked OK, just a minor amount of stuff in the fuel that I drained out it.  I then changed the primary filter on the FASS pump.  It had quite a bit of large black flakes of stuff in it.  I then changed the water separator filter, it had a darker color to it but no debris.   So I figure the primary filter on the FASS system was doing it's job polishing the fuel. 

I did not prefill the filters, I let the FASS system do it's job.  I turned the key on and let it run ~15 seconds, shut the key off, turned in on ~15 seconds, I could hear it start taking a load.  Turned it on again and I could hear it load up and the pressure gauge climbed to ~17 psi.   Then started the rig. 

Here's a picture of a gallon jug with the fuel dumped out of the FASS primary filter. 

[cbr046]

The FASS primary PF-3001 "large particulate" filter is rated at 144 um, so, catching the big stuff, that photo looks about right. 

The FASS secondary XWS-3002 "extreme water separator" filter is rated at 2um, same as the Cummins engine filter. 

I keep waiting for my pressure values to decline but they're still consistently above 12 psi at full load.  "Only" 9,000 miles since installation.  I "cleaned" my tank 11,000 miles ago, previous to the FASS install, when I ran out of fuel and totally clogged the primary filter.  Since then I use Biobor JF on fillups . . . . when I remember.

- bob

[dl_racing427]

On 8/2/2022 at 1:37 AM, Rocketman3 said:

Well I just finished installing my FASS pump in my 2000 Dynasty.  Took one (long) day. 

Here are my thoughts of what went good, bad or different than I expected…

I ordered the TS D08 100G from Parleys Diesel in St George Ut.  (Which is for a 99 Dodge Ram.- ironically my brother has that truck - & it is still running).  

Because I was installing in the rear (no extra room by the fuel tank in my 38’ Monaco), I needed a longer return hose than what was provided. After calling around, I called FASS and had them ship me a 50’ roll - I was glad I choose that length I only cutoff about 6’ - so I 45’ would have worked. 
 

 

 

The vent check value and bung fitting looked like 1/2” - but it turned out to be 3/4” - oh well another trip to the hardware store. 
 

 

For the electrical, I found a ignition in the terminal fittings then I used that to drive a relay, which powers the fuse block on the left side. The FASS fuse is in that block. The ecm fooler relay is added on the top right.

Here is the installed pump. One note, the factory installed flare or AN-8 fitting for the return to tank line, I wanted to change it from a straight to a 90 pointed down, so I called FASS, and they said no- there is a spring behind that fitting that controls the pump pressure.  So the blue hose just has a tighter bend than I would prefer.  I just reused the original fittings into the FASS pump for the input and output.

Finally, I installed a pressure gauge and the secondary filter. The electrical pressure gauge for the cockpit will get installed next week - when it arrives.

It worked the first time - No leaks !  One cool thing is if the fuel cap is off, I can see the stream of diesel fuel falling from the return to tank  

Thanks for all the good information in the thread!

I've read that you shouldn't use galvanized cans to store diesel fuel in.  Apparently the zinc can dissolve into the fuel, and then plate out on fuel pump parts and injectors.

I don't know if the relatively small area of those fittings could cause a problem, but I just wanted to make you aware.

When I modified the fuel system on my Ford Superduty, I used only brass and stainless fittings.

[Cubflyer]

1 hour ago, dl_racing427 said:

Apparently the zinc can dissolve into the fuel, and then plate out on fuel pump parts and injectors.

>>>>>Does zinc react with diesel?
Contact with zinc, copper, or metal alloys that contain zinc or copper. These metals react with diesel and form unstable compounds, which means there is higher potential for dangerous chemical reactions like explosions.<<<<<

>>>>>CAUTION: Copper and zinc, either in the form of plating or as a major alloying component, should not be used with diesel fuels. Zinc is unstable in the presence of sulfur, particularly if moisture is present in the fuel. The sludge formed by chemical action is extremely harmful to the engines internal components.<<<<<<

Wow, That is interesting... I never considered that, and I did incorporate some copper in my diesel fuel system....K

[dl_racing427]

Thanks for the further info.

That's interesting about the copper as well.
Brass is an alloy containing copper, so maybe I should go back and look at the fittings on my pickup.
I think I only used one brass fitting, but I'll look into replacing it with stainless.

P.S.  Come to think of it, copper tubing and brass fittings are very common in heating oil systems.
My Dad used to sell oil stoves and furnaces, and always used copper.  Some of those systems have been operating for 60+ years, and I'm not aware of any problems with them.
Both my garage and shop have oil furnaces, burning offroad diesel, and both have copper lines as well.
Obviously the nozzles and injector pumps aren't nearly as tight clearances as a diesel engine, but still no problems with my stuff.

[timaz996]

Thant's funny, zinc has been an additive in good oil for years for bearing life. You can only fined it a few oils now days because of the EPA.  

[dl_racing427]

7 hours ago, Tim-AZ said:

Thant's funny, zinc has been an additive in good oil for years for bearing life. You can only fined it a few oils now days because of the EPA.  

Very little of your motor oil should be coming into contact with the diesel fuel.
Also, it's a particular zinc compound in the oil, (ZDDP) which may not react the same way as zinc in it's metal form.