Jump to content

Front passenger slideout


Recommended Posts

I have anew issue with my PS slide out .it is the13' kitchen slide. Always has worked well up until the last 2 times I have used it. When it was close to being all the way out there was a loud snap and finished opening. I brought it part way back in and extended it out no  snap. When I was moving to another location it came in fine but whe we setup at our new site and put it out it there was the loud snap again before it finished going out. Any ideas on what is wrong and how to correct it would be much appreciated.  Thanks. Richard Silcox

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just repaired this issue on my PF slide. When my tile was installed originally on the floor, it should have extended maybe another inch further under the cabinet.

There is a 9” roller mounted under the cabinet(not to the floor)that would fall off the tile when the slide was almost fully extended. That was the snap I would hear.

Bring the slide in just enough to have visibility of the back edge of tile once you’ve removed the roller. You’ll need access to bottom of cabinet by removing drawers and I also removed a panel for cookie sheet pans/sink storage covers. The roller was beneath this. I removed the roller and glued in a 11” X 2” X 5/16” thick spacer next to edge of tile. You will have to determine size of spacer for your project. 
Make sure to let glue set before extending the slide out all the way because of the weight of the kitchen slide will have pressure that could move the spacer.

I was able to lay on the floor with flashlight looking under cabinet and have someone extend slide out to see the roller snap off the edge of the tile.

Hopefully this will solve your issue.

Mike

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, RS lakeshore said:

I have anew issue with my PS slide out .it is the13' kitchen slide. Always has worked well up until the last 2 times I have used it. When it was close to being all the way out there was a loud snap and finished opening. I brought it part way back in and extended it out no  snap. When I was moving to another location it came in fine but whe we setup at our new site and put it out it there was the loud snap again before it finished going out. Any ideas on what is wrong and how to correct it would be much appreciated.  Thanks. Richard Silcox

Is your slide an HWH hydraulic slide. If so I have been told not to change direction (in or out) in the middle of a cycle. Go all the way in either out or in before changing direction. Mike does have you on the right track...from what I know.

Tim

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, mbunchfive said:

I just repaired this issue on my PF slide. When my tile was installed originally on the floor, it should have extended maybe another inch further under the cabinet.

There is a 9” roller mounted under the cabinet(not to the floor)that would fall off the tile when the slide was almost fully extended. That was the snap I would hear.

Bring the slide in just enough to have visibility of the back edge of tile once you’ve removed the roller. You’ll need access to bottom of cabinet by removing drawers and I also removed a panel for cookie sheet pans/sink storage covers. The roller was beneath this. I removed the roller and glued in a 11” X 2” X 5/16” thick spacer next to edge of tile. You will have to determine size of spacer for your project. 
Make sure to let glue set before extending the slide out all the way because of the weight of the kitchen slide will have pressure that could move the spacer.

I was able to lay on the floor with flashlight looking under cabinet and have someone extend slide out to see the roller snap off the edge of the tile.

Hopefully this will solve your issue.

Mike

 

Chris Throgmartin may chime in here.  On the Camelots, there are two types of front slides,  typically, the shorter is a “flush” slide.  It goes in and out and does not move….UP or Down.  The other one is called a “Drop Down” slide.  Right at the end of the slide’s travel, the slide clears the roller and then starts to drop down. It has been a while since I was “in there”.  There is, memory, a nylon guide plate with a tapered edge.  When the slide starts in, there is a ramp that lifts up the slide so it contacts the roller….then it keeps moving towards the end of the travel.  Memory says there is a piece of nylon on the floor for a few inches.  If you lift up the overhanging carpet, you will see this piece.  I bought Guardian plates for this slide.  The original Monaco design had long nylon or plastic spacers or “glides” that were maybe 8” wide.  You remove them when you install the Guardian plates.  The SS plates are “Thinner” than the nylon glides.  Thus, your slide sits lower as the long glides are gone.  So, there are some slides that will “sit lower” and the bottom of the inside edge of the slide will abrade or mark the tile.  I used carpet strips, then got some thin “slide glide” pieces.  

All that to say, the drop down slide’s mechanics are different.  There IS a short spacer in front of the roller.  I know because I use it as the line up plate for the “slide glides”.  I don’t quite understand how moving that or putting in a wider one would impact the slide and cause the snap.

BUT….with absolutely 100% certainty, I can tell you that a SNAP will be heard when the slide (typically the TOP) molding or trim hits it’s “mating” or matching piece on the wall.  I put in Guardian plates and that raised my rear slide.  The top crown molding of the slide then would NOT go UNDER the top trim on the interior wall.  SNAP!, it went….both ways….right about 4 - 6” from being fully extended.  It frayed my cables and I had to have a new one installed. 

I would SLOWLY run out the slide….stopping about 12”….then bump it.  Look at the TOP of the cabinet or the header or trim molding.  Then move it 1/2”.  IF you have two pieces of wood….one on the interior wall and one on the slide, then use a table knife as a gage.  Run the blade between the two pieces.  Bump in and repeat.  Mine was only off on one end.  The snap was when the two pieces started to mate or the slide was to “move under” the trim.  When it starts to hit….it would move a little and then the slide would actually “lift up” or the crown molding and/or the slide would be forced down,  When they finally got enough “leverage” they would mate, but it was an interference fit.  You could run a thin blade…like a Swiss Army knife, from one end…good clearance….but when you go to the middle….there was no clearance.

Just my experience…..the shop had to take off BOTH pieces and run them through a table saw to thin them down and reinstall.  I found this out one the second day out of an 85 day trip.  I used some sandpaper and a lot of elbow grease and wax and relieved it….but it needed to be fixed and had already stressed the cable and frayed one.  The hydraulic is much more powerful….and can do a whole lot more damage.  Inspect the floor and the top….and look at the mechanics of it….or take it to a shop and have the rollers and the end plates and the cylinders adjusted by someone that understands the dynamics of it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The front ps is a flush floor slide and it is HWH system. I have not had any issues until now. I am in northwest michigan for the summer. No repair places around that I would trust. I will try to look for rollers today. Are there cables on each side that need to be checked?  Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, RS lakeshore said:

The front ps is a flush floor slide and it is HWH system. I have not had any issues until now. I am in northwest michigan for the summer. No repair places around that I would trust. I will try to look for rollers today. Are there cables on each side that need to be checked?  Thanks

I should have picked up on that....I got sidetracked by the Monaco Camelot post...

The cables that I referred to, since you probably don't have them, is the 8 cable extend/retract system used on the lower end (below yours...probably below the Dynasty). The principle is that 4 move one way and extend....and then they reverse and there are four that move the other way and it retracts.

MY POINT.  The SNAP sounds like an INTERFERENCE of the MOVING SLIDE and SOMETHING on or inside the MH or on the surrounding wall or Frame. That is exactly what mine sounded like. Your HWH system is far more powerful....so I would follow the steps and look for a clearance issue. You MIGHT have a helper, with good ears, lay or be on the floor at each end....to see where it is coming from...as well as on a safety ladder and put their ears in the vicinity of the upper corner, then the other of the slide. SOMETHING is being PUSHED against something else and the mating wood surfaces or moldings HAVE to have clearance. Again....if you don't find it immediately, quit using that slide and find a reputable dealer that specializes in SLIDE ADJUSTMENT and Repairs. Elkhart Sales and Service have been recommended....That might be on your way home, assuming you head back south...based on your location info. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

I should have picked up on that....I got sidetracked by the Monaco Camelot post...

The cables that I referred to, since you probably don't have them, is the 8 cable extend/retract system used on the lower end (below yours...probably below the Dynasty). The principle is that 4 move one way and extend....and then they reverse and there are four that move the other way and it retracts.

MY POINT.  The SNAP sounds like an INTERFERENCE of the MOVING SLIDE and SOMETHING on or inside the MH or on the surrounding wall or Frame. That is exactly what mine sounded like. Your HWH system is far more powerful....so I would follow the steps and look for a clearance issue. You MIGHT have a helper, with good ears, lay or be on the floor at each end....to see where it is coming from...as well as on a safety ladder and put their ears in the vicinity of the upper corner, then the other of the slide. SOMETHING is being PUSHED against something else and the mating wood surfaces or moldings HAVE to have clearance. Again....if you don't find it immediately, quit using that slide and find a reputable dealer that specializes in SLIDE ADJUSTMENT and Repairs. Elkhart Sales and Service have been recommended....That might be on your way home, assuming you head back south...based on your location info. 

Very good advice. Thank you

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My manual says to put slides out in travel mode. Then activate the air leveling system. We have been at this site with the coach level for 5 days. Today i brought the slide in and when I put it out I was going to stop it when the snap sound happened. Guess what no noise and went out smoothly. Is it not catching on anything when it is level?  I think I still have a problem but if i put just  this slide out after leveling I will be able to get by until I get home to FL. and have it checked out at Talin RV. Thanks. Richard Silcox

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 7/13/2022 at 11:50 AM, RS lakeshore said:

My manual says to put slides out in travel mode.

Richard,

I have seen many debates over level first, then slide outs vs slide outs first, then level.  

I have the Valid Leveling system which uses the air bags to level the coach.  My manual says to have all slides retracted before leveling.  This makes sense to me because if I am not on a very level site, and I start the slides outs first, they will not be level and gravity will try to level them and they won't be square with the coach.  And I can see how a snap could occur with trim between the slide and coach frame rubbing and snapping at the end.

This could be A reason for your snap.  I would continue to level first and then slide outs and see if the snap goes away.  Unless there is a reason for your coach you would not want to level first, but I can't think of one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Bill R said:

Richard,

I have seen many debates over level first, then slide outs vs slide outs first, then level.  

I have the Valid Leveling system which uses the air bags to level the coach.  My manual says to have all slides retracted before leveling.  This makes sense to me because if I am not on a very level site, and I start the slides outs first, they will not be level and gravity will try to level them and they won't be square with the coach.  And I can see how a snap could occur with trim between the slide and coach frame rubbing and snapping at the end.

This could be A reason for your snap.  I would continue to level first and then slide outs and see if the snap goes away.  Unless there is a reason for your coach you would not want to level first, but I can't think of one.

This debate will go on forever.  The theory of leveling versus travel.  The thing that I always considered was what will put the chassis….which, in reality, puts puts the body in a relaxed position, and similar to what it was in when the slides were installed and adjusted.  So, technically, the air bags are exactly at mid point.  That, by my understanding, is travel.  If you drive into a site that is really ugly, then if you level first, the body, could be contorted or twisted and then there could be some stressing of the slides.  

My driveway, side to side is not “zero” level….maybe a 2% slope but enough for drainage.  However the back to front is pretty bad.  You cannot get it level,  I have experimented and typically, when it is side to side on each end, they seem to travel better.  I used to have a hydraulic issue and replaced the entire system.  After getting good, stable 12 VDC, I started watching or measuring, mentally, they run faster and if you watch the Magnum remote, the “charging rate” doesn’t go nearly as high. Not exactly an ammeter on the motor, but close and reliable.

So, it depends, having one corner totally deflated and the opposite jacked up to max is gonna put a strain or stress when the slides go in and out.  With regard to Richard’s issues, the real test would be to park on a level pad, like what should be used to adjust the travel or leveling system.  Then switch to travel mode and let it stabilize.  Then switch to manual, and verify it is level. Sometimes they get out level.  But for the sake of experimentation, tweak whichever corner to get it level.  That also assumes that one has verified the side to side and back to back level and that the leveling system is “zeroed” or calibrated.

THEN, Richard can run the slides in and out several times.  No SNAP….cool.  But I still think that there is an interference or two parts, one on the slide and other on the body, are rubbing.  If he raises on corner and then lowers the other, gradually, continuing to extend and retract might give him a clue as to where it is.  Something may have become detached and was OK at the factory…but the vibration has loosened it.

Just my thoughts 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Richard,

Does that slide have the Dewald auto slide locks that are mounted on the outside wall of the slide?   When you pull them in, the mechanism will squeeze the top of the slide tight with the coach.

If by chance you do, they do need lubing.   If I let mine go too long, I will get that 'snap' you mentioned when extending slide out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...