My Monaco Ghost is back

[sg47619]

My living room/ kitchen slide won’t work. I have the control panel out and there’s no power to the switch. Any help would be greatly appreciated. This is ou my 2001 Monaco Dynasty Jack 38

[timaz996]

Check your compartment door switches under the slide. The mounts come loose so the button does not get pushed it when the door is closed.

It just happened to me last week.

Tim 

Edited July 20, 2022 by Tim-AZ

[sg47619]

I will check those when I get home. Thanks

[Notn2bars]

Thanks for the post Tim, I did not know that.  May keep me from experiencing frustration at a later date. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia

[jacwjames]

Is this an electric or hydraulic slide?

[sg47619]

I believe it’s a hydraulic slide. I will have to check that. 

On 7/20/2022 at 12:20 PM, Tim-AZ said:

Check your compartment door switches under the slide. The mounts come loose so the button does not get pushed it when the door is closed.

It just happened to me last week.

Tim 

I checked them when I got home from the hospital this evening I have a good friend down there o put a jumper wire in both of them and it still won’t work. 

[timaz996]

Sorry that was my first guess.

Tim

[Tom Cherry]

8 hours ago, sg47619 said:

I believe it’s a hydraulic slide. I will have to check that. 

I checked them when I got home from the hospital this evening I have a good friend down there o put a jumper wire in both of them and it still won’t work. 

Per your manual, the slide is hydraulic.  Look around page 123 in the manual or download it from Monaco.  There is a 10 amp fuse there.  Put in a NEW fuse.  If no joy, download the prints.  Search for wiring diagram and make sure the files is highlighted.

There is an ignition lock out relay.  If the ignition switch is on, this relay will prevent slide movement and you have no power at the switches.  Without spending s lot of time in your prints, I don’t know if the ignition switch controls the power or if that is controlled through the slide controller.  Monaco used different controllers.  There is another thread going where it appears that a KIB 4 relay (square soldered, I think, to the board, may be defective.  That board has a 5 amp control and a 25 amp power fuse.  Check or replace the 5 amp fuse.  You will have to learn and understand how the circuit works.  
 

Continue to look at prints and learn and then let us know.  

[sg47619]

I got my friend home from the hospital and checked the fuses on the hyd motor by the generator, They are 15 amp and there both good. I have power on the front side of the 12 V solenoid and none coming out to the fuses.  

[Tom Cherry]

10 hours ago, sg47619 said:

I got my friend home from the hospital and checked the fuses on the hyd motor by the generator, They are 15 amp and there both good. I have power on the front side of the 12 V solenoid and none coming out to the fuses.  

OK....here is the PROBLEM.  WE do NOT have any 2000 Dynasty Wiring Diagram(s). I am operating off a 2003....which appears to go back to 2001....for your Hydraulics.

DO YOU HAVE THE OWNER's MANUAL?  Are the PRINTS in the back of your OWNER's MANUAL. I can't do much more trouble shooting with out the prints. Therefore, if you HAVE the prints, you need to start working on them. If you would like to help everyone out here and have the manual, take the manual to an office supply house and copy and make PDF's of the wiring diagram and email the PDF's to Frank McElroy.   

@Frank McElroy

He will put them in our files and then folks like me can help you out. 

If you DO NOT have them, then a fellow 2000 Dynasty owner is going to have to chime in.

I am attaching the 2003 print....and it says 2001 - 2003. SO, it is a crap shoot for you. The newer prints show FOUR Bay or DOOR Switches in the circuit. They are in SERIES.  If ONE of them is open or defective, then that could well be your issue....pure speculation from this point.

I had posted this earlier and then done some file looking and edited this....so here is the REST of the post....

You need to do some googling and/or look at the circuit. It APPEARS....and this is a guess since I don't know exactly WHAT the control board for the hydraulic looks like that you do NOT have control power going to the switches.  The system basically works like this.

12 VDC goes to the switches.  I don't know where that is coming from other than the cursory look at the prints. When you depress or activate a switch that 12 VDC switch goes to the control board and the controller sends it to the pump. The two 15 amp fuses there are only shown ONE in the manual for your MH. The control board's output switches two things. First the proper "Flow Valve" (opening or closing...just a matter of which one or which side and which direction). That Control Board circuit also turns ON the large Solenoid that provides high current power to the motor. 

TYPICALLY....If you can hear a CLICK as in the large Pump Solenoid has activated or opened (needs to be quiet or you put your hand on the solenoid to fee it or you measure it with a VOM) that means that you have GOOD control voltage or the circuit is opening and the issue is either the pump motor or the high current lead or supply to the motor.

IF you do NOT hear the CLICK, then that means that you do not have Control Voltage or a signal coming from the Controller and/or a "MOVE ME" signal or voltage coming from the switches. 

The issue is that I can not see the control circuit....so I don't know what upstream, if any, lockout relay might be interrupting or not allowing control voltage to the switchs. It is a SINGLE line coming in. Typically it is 12 VDC to the center terminal of each of the two switches.  In your case, you need to look at the circuit or pop out (they snap in) the front slide switch. The switch has THREE (typically...again from the generic operation) contacts. The center one is the POWER.  NOW, Monaco did strange things, but USUALLY this was a Positive or B+ - Battery Power Positive - signal. IF you do NOT have power there....then the issue is in the control voltage.

NOW....Again, TYPICALLY Monaco had ONE upstream Lock OUT Relay. That was for BOTH Systems. SO, if you DO have power to the REAR SLIDES....then that means that you have good INCOMING power, from the Lockout Relay.  Now, if you snap out the REAR slide switch and check the center terminal and it is working, you will have 12 VDC to the center terminal.  All the switches do is to tell the controllers WHICH WAY you want to go. Push it UP and that may be extend or retract.  Push it DOWN and that will be in the opposite direction. The two terminals, upper and lower are the signals to the controller.  These are MOMENTARY contact in that you have to hold them IN or ON to move the slide and you STOP when the slide is fully extended or retracted....and that turns off the motors, via the rear or front controller.

OK....IF the rear is working....then you have a good power source, and the lockout relay is not blocking or preventing the movement.  Then, typically, Monaco just jumpered or has the SAME 12 VDC going to the OTHER switch...as you only need ONE source. 

Another poster asked about the Lower Bay door switches. IF you have limit switches or MUST BE CLOSED switches and one of them is reading OPEN or whatever, then the slide will NOT move.

Time to test for power on the CONTROL SWITCHES - the CENTER Terminal.  GOOD 12 VDC power says that both should work. NOW comes the trouble shooting of the front circuit.  Why do you NOT have power or a signal going to the Hydraulic Pump motor? Typically TWO things.....other than an UGLY "Wire got cut"...one is the door switch circuit has issues or the other is the Front Controller has issues.

Since I don't know what type that is and how the circuit works, you are going to have to do some looking and trouble shooting.

Thanks...

2001 - 3 Front Hydraulic Slide wiring Diagram.pdf

[sg47619]

1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

OK....here is the PROBLEM.  WE do NOT have any 2000 Dynasty Wiring Diagram(s). I am operating off a 2003....which appears to go back to 2001....for your Hydraulics.

DO YOU HAVE THE OWNER's MANUAL?  Are the PRINTS in the back of your OWNER's MANUAL. I can't do much more trouble shooting with out the prints. Therefore, if you HAVE the prints, you need to start working on them. If you would like to help everyone out here and have the manual, take the manual to an office supply house and copy and make PDF's of the wiring diagram and email the PDF's to Frank McElroy.   

@Frank McElroy

He will put them in our files and then folks like me can help you out. 

If you DO NOT have them, then a fellow 2000 Dynasty owner is going to have to chime in.

I am attaching the 2003 print....and it says 2001 - 2003. SO, it is a crap shoot for you. The newer prints show FOUR Bay or DOOR Switches in the circuit. They are in SERIES.  If ONE of them is open or defective, then that could well be your issue....pure speculation from this point.

I had posted this earlier and then done some file looking and edited this....so here is the REST of the post....

You need to do some googling and/or look at the circuit. It APPEARS....and this is a guess since I don't know exactly WHAT the control board for the hydraulic looks like that you do NOT have control power going to the switches.  The system basically works like this.

12 VDC goes to the switches.  I don't know where that is coming from other than the cursory look at the prints. When you depress or activate a switch that 12 VDC switch goes to the control board and the controller sends it to the pump. The two 15 amp fuses there are only shown ONE in the manual for your MH. The control board's output switches two things. First the proper "Flow Valve" (opening or closing...just a matter of which one or which side and which direction). That Control Board circuit also turns ON the large Solenoid that provides high current power to the motor. 

TYPICALLY....If you can hear a CLICK as in the large Pump Solenoid has activated or opened (needs to be quiet or you put your hand on the solenoid to fee it or you measure it with a VOM) that means that you have GOOD control voltage or the circuit is opening and the issue is either the pump motor or the high current lead or supply to the motor.

IF you do NOT hear the CLICK, then that means that you do not have Control Voltage or a signal coming from the Controller and/or a "MOVE ME" signal or voltage coming from the switches. 

The issue is that I can not see the control circuit....so I don't know what upstream, if any, lockout relay might be interrupting or not allowing control voltage to the switchs. It is a SINGLE line coming in. Typically it is 12 VDC to the center terminal of each of the two switches.  In your case, you need to look at the circuit or pop out (they snap in) the front slide switch. The switch has THREE (typically...again from the generic operation) contacts. The center one is the POWER.  NOW, Monaco did strange things, but USUALLY this was a Positive or B+ - Battery Power Positive - signal. IF you do NOT have power there....then the issue is in the control voltage.

NOW....Again, TYPICALLY Monaco had ONE upstream Lock OUT Relay. That was for BOTH Systems. SO, if you DO have power to the REAR SLIDES....then that means that you have good INCOMING power, from the Lockout Relay.  Now, if you snap out the REAR slide switch and check the center terminal and it is working, you will have 12 VDC to the center terminal.  All the switches do is to tell the controllers WHICH WAY you want to go. Push it UP and that may be extend or retract.  Push it DOWN and that will be in the opposite direction. The two terminals, upper and lower are the signals to the controller.  These are MOMENTARY contact in that you have to hold them IN or ON to move the slide and you STOP when the slide is fully extended or retracted....and that turns off the motors, via the rear or front controller.

OK....IF the rear is working....then you have a good power source, and the lockout relay is not blocking or preventing the movement.  Then, typically, Monaco just jumpered or has the SAME 12 VDC going to the OTHER switch...as you only need ONE source. 

Another poster asked about the Lower Bay door switches. IF you have limit switches or MUST BE CLOSED switches and one of them is reading OPEN or whatever, then the slide will NOT move.

Time to test for power on the CONTROL SWITCHES - the CENTER Terminal.  GOOD 12 VDC power says that both should work. NOW comes the trouble shooting of the front circuit.  Why do you NOT have power or a signal going to the Hydraulic Pump motor? Typically TWO things.....other than an UGLY "Wire got cut"...one is the door switch circuit has issues or the other is the Front Controller has issues.

Since I don't know what type that is and how the circuit works, you are going to have to do some looking and trouble shooting.

Thanks...

2001 - 3 Front Hydraulic Slide wiring Diagram.pdf 1.13 MB · 1 download

Thinks for the print, I have no power to the switch on the panel above the passenger set . My bedroom slide runs on a 12 v motor under the bed. It’s working.  I did put two jumper wires on the door switches and it still didn’t work. 

[MHRookie]

Did you check voltage at switch with a meter or just by trying to operate switch?

I recently found that the factory didn’t strip the wires far enough so the copper strands finally came out of the spade connector.  I unplugged & ohm’d the switch and it works; when putting back together the spade fell off the end of the wire.

good luck finding your issue.  Electrical gremlins can drive a person crazy.

[Tom Cherry]

2 hours ago, sg47619 said:

Thinks for the print, I have no power to the switch on the panel above the passenger set . My bedroom slide runs on a 12 v motor under the bed. It’s working.  I did put two jumper wires on the door switches and it still didn’t work. 

Well.  Did you find your manual and look at the prints.  It is difficult to trouble shoot with a “maybe like this” print.  
 

BUT, the logic that Monaco has used is usually not changed.  The simplest…. Assuming your slide switches are next to each other.  Pull the power or center lead from the back switch.  Hook up to the front switch.  Did that work. If you have a dual pile, then splice in a jumper or use a bent paper clip to get power to both the center terminal.  If that works, you know the slide system is OK, but the safety interlocks are the problem.  What I don’t have is a print showing yours exactly.  But the 4 switches are series strung from the main lockout relay power OUT terminal.  So, putting good or known power to the front will tell a lot.

I seriously DOUBT…but this is Monaco that there are TWO ignition lockout relays.  Look at how the newer print is laid out. My system uses a single source to all the slide switches.  
 

That is about as far as we can go, or at least me, without a real print.  Get a PDF of the prints in your book that show the slides and the circuits at an office supply place.  Upload them…then folks can help you.  Right now, I am generically trouble shooting….only a person with a similar Dynasty can help…but if we had your print, then it would not be the shotgun approach.

get good power to the switch and report back.

thanks.

[sg47619]

These are out of my 2001 Dynasty wiring Diagrams. 
haven’t had time to put power to the switch on the control panel. 

[sg47619]

Just now, sg47619 said:

This is the back of the switch 

[Tom Cherry]

OK....lets start and try the following.  It is important for you to understand the circuits....and I am now, unfortunately, HOOKED....not to mention that I am on a heavy dose of Prednisone for an inflammation and slightly WIRED or HYPER...good? BAD?...

Look at your print.  ASSUME that the Parking Brake LIGHT is ON when you set the Parking Brake light.  If it is NOT, then you have a switch problem. The parking light or bulb gets its POWER from the Gauge Power Fuse (5 amp).  The 14 Ga Purple wire is the GROUND for the switch to work.  When the PB switch is closed, the Ground (14G WH) wire supplies the GROUND and the light comes on. That ALSO sends a GROUND signal via the 18G Blu to the Hydraulic Pump.  You SHOULD be able to identify the wires on the Pump Motor.  TEST for GROUND on that #18 Blu Stud on the Pump Solenoid.  Use the Continuity scale and find a GOOD ground up front.  GOT A GROUND....GOOD...if NOT....then assuming the PB light is ON...you got a problem with a wire.... 

FIRST....You said that you have NO POWER from the 15 A Fuses.  That would be CORRECT.  The two 15 amp Fuses are connected to the big STUD of that Solenoid that goes directly TO THE PUMP.  You will NOT have power on them UNTIL the solenoid closes.  SO...  DO YOU HAVE POWER on the OTHER stud....the 2 Ga from the FRB Battery STUD?  If so....then progress.

That Solenoid is controlled or "safety protected" by the Parking Brake switch. If there is NOT a good ground on the other terminal...18 Blu...then the solenoid is NOT going to work. I THINK that you said you could NOT hear the Solenoid CLICK. I asked you to have your wife cycle and feel if it clicks.  That is KEY. If the Solenoid is defective and it is NOT engaging...then you do NOT get back power to the #2 terminal on the switch.  The power on NUMBER 2 will NOT be live or activated until the Solenoid  CLOSES and TELLS the "tells the pump MOTOR to start. SO  test again. 

OK...what DOES make the solenoid work. IT HAS to have power to the OTHER small terminal. There are TWO Gray lines there.  One comes from the Generator Slide switch.  OK....STOP.  Does the Generator Slide WORK....try it.  IF it DOES...then the Solenoid and the Motor are working.....WHICH IS GOOD.

If NOT, then probably the Solenoid is BAD....  OK...stay with me.  There are TWO gray wires.  You can probably NOT chase them DOWN. BUT, you can TEST the circuit.  Have your wife run out the genny slide or bring it in.  You need your VOM on the #2 Wire (IN/OUT) switch.  NOW, if may look confusing.  BUT, the switch has a Yellow and a Black.  IF Monaco did not "color code", this is HOW you determine WHICH is #2 and WHICH is #5.  The JUMPER wire is from 4 to 6....look for it.  That means that the #5 is in the middle.  You want to test for voltage on the SLIDE Switch #2 while you wife runs out or in the genny slide.  YOU GOT 12 VDC....then so far so good and we have eliminated the one side of the circuit....assuming that the switch is GOOD. 

REMEMBER...you said, I think....NO POWER to the SWITCH on EITHER TERMINAL.. THAT may be the issue. #2 terminal  will NOT have power until the Hydraulic pump solenoid CLOSES... SO, if you have power on #2....WHEN the GENNY SLIDE IS MOVING....then the solenoids that the switches controls (IN and OUT) under the Entry Steps will or SHOULD work...when you press either side of the SLIDE IN/OUT switch.  . I have NO idea what these solenoids control....maybe fluid. 

NOW...for the system to WORK...you have to HAVE power on the #5 wire.  SO...we have TESTED the #2...assuming it shows power when the GENNY SLIDE WORKS....that is GREAT.  BUT, for the your room hydraulic SLIDES to actually WORK..., you HAVE to have POWER from the Jumpered Terminals #4 & #6.  THAT....comes from the lockout relay and through the 4 series strung switches.  IF all has worked so FAR...then we have to test....and this is the easiest. 

The SIMPLE THING....remove the #5 lead.  Remove a GOOD power lead from the center of the REAR slide switch.  MARK IT....and pictures.  Put it on the #5 terminal.  IF all works well, you have either a defective BOSCH relay (lockout) or you have an OPEN or defective DOOR switch.

I THINK (maybe others will critique my advise and catch an error) that should make them work. 

I HOPE that you followed my logic.  I am re-reading and editing NOW>>> YES...a few minor edits and checking for the wires and terminal numbers.

I THINK, am almost POSITIVE, that is how it works and if you follow (understand as WELL) the logic above, you will find the problem.  GUT FEEL.  You said you have NO power on either terminal.  YES...that is pretty solid...but we NEED to verify the OTHER side or the Hydraulic side to make sure all is well.  THEN...you will have to figure out WHY you have NO power (assuming it is dead) to the #5 terminal...  MOST LIKELY...a door switch....but WHO KNOWS.  Start with the RELAY.  Power HAS to come in on the #30 Terminal...NO POWER...from the Mini Breaker in the REAR Run Plate....NO WORKEE...

Next...the #85 Terminal GOES to Ground.  You can test that with your continuity on the VOM.  OK...power in and ready to roll.  BUT, the Ignition is the KEY.  The relay is NORMALLY closed....as in power comes in on #30 and goes out to the #87A or center terminal.  BUT, when the relay coil is energized....and the #86 Terminal has POWER....then the RELAY OPENS....NO JUICE out to 87A....and NO SLIDE POWER.  IF you have the IGNITION OFF, then there should be POWER coming out of 87A....assuming you have POWER coming in via #30...IF not...buy a new RELAY.  NAPA has them or buy a GOOD one, not imported, on AMAZON.  You MIGHT steal one from somewhere else. 

FINALLY...Got GOOD power out of 87A and NO POWER to the #5 on the Slide SWITCH...you have an OPEN circuit on ONE (maybe two?) of the Compartment DOORS....that is all there is to it....

Have at it....DO THIS WHEN YOU ARE CLEAR HEADED....  Let us know....

I also invite anyone else that trouble shoots to look at my logic...it makes sense to me and I have been mulling this over for several days and now finally, I HOPE, the light that is on "in my head" is correct....

Good Luck... 

[sg47619]

Here’s what I’ve found. Brake light works when applied, gen slide works great, ground on number 18 wire is good on solenoid, I tested #2 terminal on switch when slide goes out there is power on it, I then put power to # 5 on switch and slide works, then I checked both safety switches on the two doors that have them they both tested fine, I then made two jumper wires and connected the wires on the switch’s and it still wouldn’t work. I’m now in the process of checking the relay in the rear compartment. The fuse breaker is good and I have two 87a relays one says bed slide the other says slide out. I have power to both put the one that says slide out has no power to the #85 terminal and it has blue with white stripe wire on it the same wire that the safety switches have on them, I then put a jumper wire on the blue and white striped wire and the slide works. I then hooked both safety switches back up like normal and re hooked the jumper wire back up on the blue and white wire and the slide works. 
 

My suspicion is that the relay is bad on the slide out, the bedroom slide still works, if anyone has a thought on this I would greatly appreciate all the help I’ve gotten and continue to get. 
I hope I have explained this good enough to help.  

Thanks Steve. 

[Tom Cherry]

2 minutes ago, sg47619 said:

Here’s what I’ve found. Brake light works when applied, gen slide works great, ground on number 18 wire is good on solenoid, I tested #2 terminal on switch when slide goes out there is power on it, I then put power to # 5 on switch and slide works, then I checked both safety switches on the two doors that have them they both tested fine, I then made two jumper wires and connected the wires on the switch’s and it still wouldn’t work. I’m now in the process of checking the relay in the rear compartment. The fuse breaker is good and I have two 87a relays one says bed slide the other says slide out. I have power to both put the one that says slide out has no power to the #85 terminal and it has blue with white stripe wire on it the same wire that the safety switches have on them, I then put a jumper wire on the blue and white striped wire and the slide works. I then hooked both safety switches back up like normal and re hooked the jumper wire back up on the blue and white wire and the slide works. 
 

My suspicion is that the relay is bad on the slide out, the bedroom slide still works, if anyone has a thought on this I would greatly appreciate all the help I’ve gotten and continue to get. 
I hope I have explained this good enough to help.  

Thanks Steve. 

TOTALLY.  You and I, also, learned a lot.  The good news is that you probably have a $10 problem….  Pop in a new relay.  BTW….order 3 GOOD ONES…always good, at the age of your MH, to have a spare or two.  Easier to pop in a good new relay than go through all the trouble shooting steps.  BUT, this ought to give you confidence.  Don’t give up….and quit nicknaming it the “BIG A”.  You might hurt her feelings and THEN, she, like a “not so happy” mate, will make your life miserable until you do your penance.

YES…I personally am more pleased with how quickly you have understood my ramblings and also now know how it works…and that you have confidence in the system.

My ONLY ADVICE.  As time goes on or you have issues, when you have the electrical system OFF and see the #2 or bigger battery cables on terminals, take a socket or a wrench and “SNUG” them. Don’t go crazy and snap the lug.  You need to do this at least ANNUALLY…or semi, on all the nuts on both the battery banks.  Remember, you are driving a magnitude 4+ Earthquake down the highway.

Give us a final report…good luck…

[sg47619]

So, hopefully this is the final update on the slide power, I changed the 87a relay and the slide is working as it should. Thanks again for your help on this mater. 

[Tom Cherry]

15 minutes ago, sg47619 said:

So, hopefully this is the final update on the slide power, I changed the 87a relay and the slide is working as it should. Thanks again for your help on this mater. 

Think of what you learned….  LOL.  Good deal.  Happy “Slide Works Now” camping….FWIW, I punted on going under the motorized step well cover and got a great tech, that I bribe with some of my electronic knowledge and “Yes…did you try this” when he works on a Monaco.  He lubed and tightened and then ran it in and out, flawlessly for many days.  It was intermittent and I did not want it broken in the extended position.  I had him pull the relays.  He said JUNK….cheapest thing out of China.  I told him to put in new ones….as some folks, on the same year Camelots had torn out the whole affair and found a defective or slow starting or “hanging up” relay.  Total cost…$105….so I should know….you did a great job.

From a Moderator’s perspective, we really do appreciate folks reading and following, hopefully GOOD, advice rather than just keep posting and wanting the “Magic Bullet Answer”.

[sg47619]

34 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

Think of what you learned….  LOL.  Good deal.  Happy “Slide Works Now” camping….FWIW, I punted on going under the motorized step well cover and got a great tech, that I bribe with some of my electronic knowledge and “Yes…did you try this” when he works on a Monaco.  He lubed and tightened and then ran it in and out, flawlessly for many days.  It was intermittent and I did not want it broken in the extended position.  I had him pull the relays.  He said JUNK….cheapest thing out of China.  I told him to put in new ones….as some folks, on the same year Camelots had torn out the whole affair and found a defective or slow starting or “hanging up” relay.  Total cost…$105….so I should know….you did a great job.

From a Moderator’s perspective, we really do appreciate folks reading and following, hopefully GOOD, advice rather than just keep posting and wanting the “Magic Bullet Answer”.

I could have gotten the relay from Amazon for around 11 dollars but decided to use my local parts store it was more, but I like shopping close to home and they had it. I would have had to wait 4 days for Amazon. Thanks again for all your help it is truly appreciated.