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2002 Monaco Signature Slide out Issues


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This morning after a week at a campground here in Asheville, NC, when I started bringing in my living room slide it stopped in the middle of the operation. When pushing the switch either in or out, I could hear the solenoid clicking.  I checked the connections on the solenoid, cleaned them and retightened.  Still no movement.  If I jump the large 12 volt input from the battery to the motor connection on the solenoid the motor runs.  I did changed out the solenoid about six months ago.  

I checked the slide room visually on the outside of the coach and noticed the back of the room’s slide seal was binding up in an area two feet near the top.  The front and back had not moved evenly.  I got out my tools and was able to reposition the seal.  When I tried the switch again, the slide moved unevenly in about 6 inches and stopped again.  The switch just clicks the solenoid again when being pushed.  Now the front top was close to being closed but the bottom was a couple inches farther open.  On the other end of the room-the back end of the slide did not move the same amount and was not even with the front.

By this time the campground manager was at my coach telling me I need to leave and make room for the next camper.  I tried turning T - handles on the hydraulic pump but they would not turn.  So myself and couple of neighbors tried pushing the slide in with my wife running the switch. We managed to get the room to almost close at the top but still open a couple of inches at the bottom.  We left the campground and drove three hours to our next stop in the Hiawassee, GA area with the slide ajar.  I pretty sure the problem is not related to the switches/sensors on the basement doors under the slide as I tested them at my new camp ground.  I also was under the coach checking the solenoid connections again.  I tapped on the hydraulic reservoir and couldn’t tell if it had fluid in it.  Could it be I need to add hydraulic fluid ?  The slide out had been working fine until today?

At this point I am looking for advice on how the hydraulic system works, troubleshooting ideas, etc.

Anyone know of a company around hear that has expertise in this type of repair?

Thank You

JohnJ

2002 Monaco Signature

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8 hours ago, jjroxus said:

This morning after a week at a campground here in Asheville, NC, when I started bringing in my living room slide it stopped in the middle of the operation. When pushing the switch either in or out, I could hear the solenoid clicking.  I checked the connections on the solenoid, cleaned them and retightened.  Still no movement.  If I jump the large 12 volt input from the battery to the motor connection on the solenoid the motor runs.  I did changed out the solenoid about six months ago.  

I checked the slide room visually on the outside of the coach and noticed the back of the room’s slide seal was binding up in an area two feet near the top.  The front and back had not moved evenly.  I got out my tools and was able to reposition the seal.  When I tried the switch again, the slide moved unevenly in about 6 inches and stopped again.  The switch just clicks the solenoid again when being pushed.  Now the front top was close to being closed but the bottom was a couple inches farther open.  On the other end of the room-the back end of the slide did not move the same amount and was not even with the front.

By this time the campground manager was at my coach telling me I need to leave and make room for the next camper.  I tried turning T - handles on the hydraulic pump but they would not turn.  So myself and couple of neighbors tried pushing the slide in with my wife running the switch. We managed to get the room to almost close at the top but still open a couple of inches at the bottom.  We left the campground and drove three hours to our next stop in the Hiawassee, GA area with the slide ajar.  I pretty sure the problem is not related to the switches/sensors on the basement doors under the slide as I tested them at my new camp ground.  I also was under the coach checking the solenoid connections again.  I tapped on the hydraulic reservoir and couldn’t tell if it had fluid in it.  Could it be I need to add hydraulic fluid ?  The slide out had been working fine until today?

At this point I am looking for advice on how the hydraulic system works, troubleshooting ideas, etc.

Anyone know of a company around hear that has expertise in this type of repair?

Thank You

JohnJ

2002 Monaco Signature

Been THERE....but with a Lippert System.  My electrics are different from yours, but this is what you need, in general to know.  Look at your prints.  Find out WHERE the power to the Solenoid (incoming) is fused or maybe a large resettable Circuit Breaker or maybe a "AUTO RESET" Circuit breaker.  I SUSPECT that when the amperage got really high....as in the motor was straining that one of two things happened.  There MAY be an overload or a heat sensor in the motor.  If so....it said..."I ain't gonna hurt myself" and kicked in or opened up.  If you have every used a hair dryer for stuff and partially blocked off the back or the air intake....like putting one in a shoe to dry it out....it will shut down a thermal overload.  

The OTHER....you have an upstream Auto Reset Circuit Breaker.  It exceeded the rated amperage....and then shut down.  IF the OTHER slide(s) moved OK....and this was the only one....then you KNOW that there was a thermal overload or a auto reset CB kicking in.

The only OTHER ADVICE....trace the circuit from the Battery Buss or wherever the protection is to the motor.  Make sure all the nuts are tight.....and loosen and twist a little side to side. You need tight connection as that load is probably in the 75 - 100 Amp range.

YES....the slide is in a bind and needs correction....but this is just a little bit of my hypothesis to help you understand.  The solenoid, if it works on the OTHER slide, is probably not the issue....but when you get a Tech....have him measure the current on the INCOMING side of the solenoid with a clamp on meter.  Then, running that same slide....in the same direction (cycle it back to the position where he started to measure), then check the amperage on the OUTGOING side of the solenoid.  They should be within an amp or so....overall.  If there is a 5 or so amp drop...then the contacts are bad in the solenoid.

Good Luck

PS>>>>  I would also get the tech to show you exactly how to release the pressure and then how  you can move the slide.  I had to do that and use a drill to run my motor....but I also had three people pushing so the motor was only say 50% of the load and the "huskies" were making it easier.

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If it is a HWH system, the boxy reservoir would have a breather at the top that unscrew with a wrench under it. It should have a short dipstick attached. If low, the air could mess with the equalizer cylinder and get it misbehave. The t-handles should definitely unscrew but I know the feeling about not wanting to break something in middle of nowhere. Also check if there isn't something stack under the slide, especially around the rollers on that lazy side. Also the plastic motor solenoids are often junk, new or old.

 

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Posted (edited)

Tom,

Thanks for your insight.  Sounds like you’ve had a lot of service experiences over the years with your coach over.  I’ve only had mine a little over a year now and have repaired a lot of issues and learned a lot from this site —- thanks to everyone involved...  I wasn’t able to locate a local service tech who was familiar with the HWH hydraulic slide out system.  They all seem to be tuned into electric slides on later model fifth wheels and trailers…

I did take all the wires off the solenoid again and cleaned the connections thoroughly.  This time when I tried the slide switch the solenoid activated the pump.  The sound is a constant spinning rather than a varying sound of a load on it. It seemed to be working to some extent and there was a small jerk movement of the slide.  After that it now just makes a constant drone without a load sound.  I got four of us big guys to push in the slide as my wife operated the switch and we got it pushed in all the way and it is locked.  That was great! So I’m not concerned anymore about rain getting in there and can live without it extended if needed. Since it did seem like there was some pump pressure to assist our pushing effort, that makes me think that Ivan may be on to something there about low fluid and air messing up the equalizer cylinder’s ability to synchronize the pressure to both rams in the system.  The big question is if it needs fluid, there must be a leak somewhere.  I have looked in the basement areas. The slide tracks are not visible without taking down the basement ceiling or removing a plastic cover on one side.  No signs of leaking hydraulic fluid as yet.  (Keeping my fingers crossed)

Where are the slide rollers located?

Thanks Ivan for your insight and mention about the hydraulic tank breather cap removal and the dip stick…I was afraid to mess with it thinking it was not made to be removed.  It’s a really tight space and I can just barley see the cap when  I get under there.  Looks like I will need some special hand pump to get fluid in there if I need to add some.  I assume it would use the same Dexron I put in the large tank in the engine room the side radiator pump uses?

Vince-I don’t have any leveling jacks-wish I did!

Tomorrow I am going to to check the hydraulic level in the tank and see what that looks like.

Thanks Again.

 

Edited by jjroxus
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3 minutes ago, jjroxus said:

I wasn’t able to locate a local service tech who was familiar with the HWH hydraulic slide out system so I took all the wire off the solenoid and cleaned the connections.  This time when Intried the slide switch,the pump seems to be turning there was a small jerk movement of the slide.  I got four of us big guys to push in the slide as mynwife operated the switch and we got it pushed in all the way and is locked.  I did seem like there was some the pump to assist our pushing effort

Good deal.  The “jerkiness” of the slide(s), under normal conditions seems normal.  There is, I think, a “balancing” valve or cylinder that lets the slides move “uniformly”.  When I had my burned up motor, the motor was way overloaded and the slide movement was far from “graceful” or smooth.

I don’t have any further advice….as this is an HWH.  I also don’t know if your solenoid is a simple one….two control wires and two studs and the solenoid just energizes the motor and does not have reversing contacts like some have.  My motor always turns in the same direction….

If that is your type …and you can remove the lead to the motor and have you wife push, momentarily, the extend….and quickly check the voltage to Ground.  It should be POSITIVE.  Then the retract.  If the voltage is POSITIVE…then you might want to order a “starter” solenoid from Amazon or a NAPA dealer.  Get a 150 amp one.  That is way overkill.  You can get NAPA usually to custom cut and terminate cables.  You can Mount it remotely as it might not fit where the OEM one is.  Just figure out how long the outgoing has to be.  Odds are, you can run the main power in…and then use a new cable to the motor.

TWO final thoughts….do the other slides WORK OK?  Have you lubricated the balky one lately? It is ALSO a a good idea to check the negative side of the motor and chase down the ground to the chassis.  Make sure both studs on the motor are clean and the nuts tight…but don’t put a breaker bar on them. Clean the ground one also.  

Good luck.

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I would also still check the fluid level since your pump seems running and valves are at least clicking. I realize that fluid does not just disappear without trace but it would be an easy check. My best access is between the step and front wheel. Just make sure no one operates the step while under it. Unless you can access if through the inside steps, I can't. Since you were at the t-handles on the other side of the tank, you know what safety precautions to take. And yes, the pump only runs one way.

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Yesterday I missed part of your post asking about the fluid. If red, dextron III is back compatible with older types. I don't remember major problem with filling it from a quart bottle, maybe a bit of a spill to clean up. I had a leaky cylinder that eventually started dripping in the opposite baggage compartment where it is held by 4 bolts to frame. If you had an internal piston leak, it would not lower the fluid level.

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There was a post on IRV2 about 1 year ago from a Dynasty owner.  He had to replace all of his hoses on his hydraulic slide due to leaking.  Only saw one leak but when he gained access to the hoses in the roof of the basement they were all seeping.  Pretty big job to change them all. 

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Jim,

That sounds like a mess!  Hopefully I won’t have to face that one.

I just checked the slide’s hydraulic reservoir and it is pretty much empty. When I took the breather cap off  the dipstick had  bit of fluid on it. When I cleaned it off and  checked it a second and third time it comes up dry.  I checked the area under the slide tracks in the basement and there is no signs of a leak.

So off to the store for a gallon of hydraulic fluid.  See what that brings!

More to follow…

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm with Ivan on low fluid level. My 04 Executive does it every so often where on slide will come out just fine but the other side wouldn't but I can hear the pump.

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The more I thought about it, since the hydraulic fluid tank is basically empty and it must hold at least a gallon or more fluid, there has to be a leak somewhere.  I can’t understand if that much hydraulic fluid is missing-where did it go?  So I carefully inspected all the areas in the basement again where I could easily remove the ceiling panels and I found no sign of a leak.  I could not remove the ceiling in some areas without a major disruption as we are currently staying at a different camp ground each week and we have had rain and no where to put the basement contents.  Still with that much fluid missing it should leave a trail and be a major mess.  But there is none. I’m hesitant to fill the tank and test it and open pandoras box while on the road at a campground.

 At the end of the day, I decided to let the sleeping dog alone and leave the slide closed and wait till we get home in about three weeks and then fill the tank and see what happens.

Thanks You Guys,

John J

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Just a possibility for an undetected leak, our 2000 has equalizing cylinder above passenger side of fuel tank. If there was a leak, it would drip on the ground without any mess in the coach. Transmission fluid does not leave big stains over time.

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I will have a look tomorrow. That would be good luck for me if it is i the same area as your coach.  However, about six weeks ago, before we left on our trip, I installed a T fitting on my propane hose and ran that hose across to the fuel tank side to come out the diesel fill door.  I was in the area for quite some time and don’t recall seeing any hydraulic lines…time will tell.  

I’ve got another issue I would like your insight on about grounding of the interior house lighting.  I will start another post on that issue.

Thanks Ivan,

JohnJ

2002 Signature 

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1 hour ago, jjroxus said:

 

I will have a look tomorrow. That would be good luck for me if it is i the same area as your coach.  However, about six weeks ago, before we left on our trip, I installed a T fitting on my propane hose and ran that hose across to the fuel tank side to come out the diesel fill door.  I was in the area for quite some time and don’t recall seeing any hydraulic lines…time will tell.  

I’ve got another issue I would like your insight on about grounding of the interior house lighting.  I will start another post on that issue.

Thanks Ivan,

JohnJ

2002 Signature 

Excuse my dumbass typing mistake, I meant to say that the cylinder is on DRIVER side of the fuel tank. The door lifts after I remove 2 screws from under the door.

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Actually you were correct on your location call on my 2002 Sig coach.  It's on the ceiling above the fuel tank door opening on the passenger side...

However it's dry as a bone-no leak there.  

Thanx- Ivan

 

 

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