2009 Camelot Front Slide

[Jon sweet]

Hey everyone, both of my front slides are currently not working. It’s happened before (extended) on a trip and I was able to run a drill on the motor and it reset that happened 3 months ago. It’s been fine ever since. Now im home and the slides are retracted and the motor isn’t working. Tested voltage going to the motor from solenoid and we have 12V. Anyone have a part number for the motor? Or some input as to if im heading in the right direction?

 

Thanks!!

[Rick A]

I’d be inclined to disconnect the power, and clean off that unit to ensure that everything is connecting properly. If the ground has failed nothing works! My 2 cents worth. 

[Happycarz]

Lippert front slide motor 414850/179327 

Western Motor Service   wms1.com

Rockford, IL   815 986-2214  M-F  7:30-4:00

$400 +/-

[tmw188]

I agree with Rick A but just for kicks to see if it helps make a difference at all are you plugged in while running the slide motor? 

[Jon sweet]

Thanks for the input,  Looks close but not an exact match...still looking, I will contact Lippert on Monday for possible candidates.  Searching for some part numbers now but it's too hard to see.  will advise.  Jon

Yes, Plugged in and battery voltage is 13+ at the battery and the pump supply

Glad this happened while we are home inside the garage !

[Happycarz]

If you have voltage going to the solenoid and then to the motor, but motor doesn’t engage, the circuit is good to the motor, as you said.

While someone is holding the inside slide button, tap the side of the motor with a hammer toward the end of it. If motor runs, you are correct in the motor needs brushes, or needs to be replaced. 
 

An alternate way of testing, if you are by yourself, would to connect a jumper wire from the 12v cable to the solenoid wire, which is the one to the right of the 12v cable. On mine it is, one wire is gray and the other is black with a white stripe.  Once jumper securely in place tap the side of the motor. If motor spins disconnect the jumper. But, you already know to do that.  Brushes if commutator is still good, motor if not.

This tapping on the motor is an old GM starter motor test. Worked on Toyota’s, too.

 

 

Western Motor is familiar with the Monaco slide motors. Maybe there still is a number on yours.  If it is a label, be careful of cleaning too aggressively as the numbers will disappear. 
 

A call to them might help. That slide motor goes by both the numbers to either side of the slash.  414850   /   179327

 

[Tom Cherry]

3 hours ago, Jon sweet said:

Hey everyone, both of my front slides are currently not working. It’s happened before (extended) on a trip and I was able to run a drill on the motor and it reset that happened 3 months ago. It’s been fine ever since. Now im home and the slides are retracted and the motor isn’t working. Tested voltage going to the motor from solenoid and we have 12V. Anyone have a part number for the motor? Or some input as to if im heading in the right direction?

 

Thanks!!

Been there.  Done that.  Know you have done a lot, but here, based on a lot of conversations wire Lippert is what I suggest.  READ THE ENTIRE POST….There is a DESIGN PROBLEM WITH THE MOTOR & RESERVOIR.   You need to be aware before you throw $$ at it….more at the end.

Click below.  I had the same issue.  I posted the replacement Lippert PN for the motor as well as the replacement for the entire assembly.  You need to understand several issues once you have isolated the problem…..and then decide what has the most value or corse of action…it is very detailed.  I fought an issue for years and had three, as well as myself, techs try to find the issue. I finally did…..

First off.  Locate the resettable Circuit Breaker in the front run bay.  Lower left corner.  It is a 150 Amp.  Monaco used it because they “FORGOT” that there was not a generator slide. Mit should be a 80 A or a 100A at the max.  Whatever the resolution, it inners to be changed out. The original Lippert motor is supposed to pull 65 A MAX.  When mine was acting up, it allowed a mrga current and burned up the motor.  Trust me on this….lI ended up with a new unit.  Lippert was adamant about down rating the CB.  Loosen the stud nuts slightly & move the terminal to polish.  Then retighten

 

NEXT UP.  You should be able to hear the Solenoid “click” if you are standing in the front at the dash.  Go outside and have someone extend or retract.  If no CLICK… bad solenoid.  Lippert has them.  If you can make or buy cables, a standard auto starter will work.  If the contacts are bad, then you will be getting low voltage and low amperage.

Loosen and clean and polish the studs and terminals.

The MOTOR has a specific design flaw.  New one still does. Remove the nuts and terminals.  There is a lock nut on each stud.  It comes loose.  Snug or tighten the inside nut.  If it is loose, then the stud makes poor contact inside the motor and arcs.  Now reinstall the terminals.  If the Solenoid is working and you measure 12 VDC to ground off the Motor positive, then put your Voltmeter across the negative and positive and have someone extend or retract a slide.  It you start the Genny and let it run for 5 minutes and the Magnum is charging, you ought to see as much as 13 or maybe 13.3 VDC.  If the voltage is below 12 or lower, you have an upstream bad connection.  Odds are, you House Battery switch ($40 max) has issues.  It is a LONG cable run.  But the cable to the CB in the FRB has a 200 Amp fuse.  I know, I blew two of them.

So…good voltage.  Then probably the motor.  You now have the Lippert PN.  UNFORTUNATELY Lippert want $1,000 or so for it….or did back when I fixed mine.  YEOUCH!  So MAYBE an aftermarket. BTW, this is NOT a reversing motor.  It turns one way.  You loosen the correct valve to extend or retract…there are two valves per side…thus 4 valves.  SOME Lippert systems reverse….not this one.

NOW, MAYBE, your dilemma.  Crawl up under the FRB.  LOOK at the reservoir.  Many of us that bought the 2009 recognized that the reservoir is not supported and is hanging or. cantilevered out like a loaf of bread.  We fabricated a bracket with thick HVAC tape on it and cradled the end so it did not vibrate.  Many folks have a leak where the motor goes to the pump and the reservoir is “pressed” in.  There is a higher than average risk of failure with a new motor…these were OEM lipperts.  Don’t know about the aftermarket.  I made a decision to get a whole new unit.  Cost maybe 50%, then, than just the motor.  Never looked back and it works great. Many have had the same problem and eventually had to replace the “housing” or the motor, pump and reservoir to fix it.  I have all new components and it is reliable.

Hope this helps.  If you get stuck or confused, PM me and I’ll walk you through the system….done that many times for others.

Good Luck….

[96 EVO]

23 hours ago, Happycarz said:

Lippert front slide motor 414850/179327 

Western Motor Service   wms1.com

Rockford, IL   815 986-2214  M-F  7:30-4:00

$400 +/-

Harry, would that replacement motor come with a new oil seal, or, are you on your own to source one?

[TommyL]

96Evo. Ben I have that seal and numbers At the lake house were our 08 Camelot  Isl400 tag is parked. Will be there Friday and can post if you want. Lippert said it was not repairable. I bought 2 for 2.68 cents 10 years ago. Now the bad. I reversed the 2 electric connection,tripped the heavy breaker Cherry talked about earlier twice before I realized it was pumping against a brick wall.10 years later started sounding a little rough first half of slide out then sounds ok. Hope it’s repairable or replace with Happycarz post. Tommy.

[96 EVO]

Tommy, for sure post it!

Mine is working, but, I wouldn't be shocked if the day comes!

[Happycarz]

When my coach was two years old, the slide pump seal failed a flooded the motor. I talk to Lippert, with them telling me  there was no seal available and to buy a whole new pump/motor/manifold/reservoir assembly for $1800. This was in 2009. 
 

Once I had the seal in hand, I found it very hard, non pliable, like very old seal. The dimensions were stamped on the seal, so I got lucky  10x22x8mm  A local seal had a 10x22x7, 1mm less in width, as the OE seal was not available from anyone. That seal is still working just peachy.

 I did a long write, with pictures, up on iRV2 on how to replace that seal, as they were failing right and left. Then, the next year,  Lippert started warrantying the assembly’s, but I missed that boat.

Another Camelot owner just last year did his by following my write up.  A $3.00 seal and some effort sure saves a bunch of money.

 

 

How to replace your Lippert slide pump seal.

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/lippert-seal-replacement-60352.html

[Jon sweet]

I think possibly that the recommendation to replace the entire pump, valve body and reservoir as a unit was the most practical given the intermittant failure of the system.  I don't want to be stranded again with the slides out on a mountain top.  Thanks to all.  Jon

[TommyL]

Ben my seal is the same as Happycarz, SKF 562660 post . About the size of a nickel. We let the MH set to long this winter, the hydraulic slide valves stuck in the out position. A little in and out on the switch’s and slides ok. Maybe time to change from hydraulic oil to ATF. Ours is a Parker pump like Jon sweet post. Any thoughts on fluid change helping sticky valves? 08 Camelot tag  isl400.

[Tom Cherry]

1 hour ago, TommyL said:

Ben my seal is the same as Happycarz, SKF 562660 post . About the size of a nickel. We let the MH set to long this winter, the hydraulic slide valves stuck in the out position. A little in and out on the switch’s and slides ok. Maybe time to change from hydraulic oil to ATF. Ours is a Parker pump like Jon sweet post. Any thoughts on fluid change helping sticky valves? 08 Camelot tag  isl400.

I started to question the HF in the Lippert system.  But, in 2008, Your manual calls for HF and mine in 2009, ATF and it WAS RED, so ATF.  Being a Parker pump might explain that. Never count on Monaco for consistency…..  I’d talk to Parker before I switched.

On 3/21/2023 at 7:37 AM, Jon sweet said:

I think possibly that the recommendation to replace the entire pump, valve body and reservoir as a unit was the most practical given the intermittant failure of the system.  I don't want to be stranded again with the slides out on a mountain top.  Thanks to all.  Jon

That was my logic.  But I did check the motor on the new one.  I snugged up the studs.  I ran millions of fasteners for 10 years in a carburetor assembly plant.  Never trust an air tool, so check your new one.  My original post has all the crosses and correct PN….but verify.

Good luck and keep us posted

[96 EVO]

I went thru an issue similar to that a couple of years back!

One of the valve solenoids was constantly getting power, (the solenoid for the valve would almost burn your fingers when you held it), so when I pressed either of my hyd slide switches, the motor would run, but neither slides would retract!

Luckily for me, I had Harry on the schematics, telling me which solenoids to unplug so I could retract / extend my slides for my long weekend trip starting the following day.

I was about to order a new harness (there's a little control box in the harness), and it started working again. The 12v power holding that solenoid shut off.

That was a head scratcher, but I've had no issues with it since! Gota love problems that fix themselves, but your always wondering if they will return!

Edited March 24, 2023 by 96 EVO

[TommyL]

Tom C. Talk to Parker hyd. Man ,we call him our second son ,2O years in hyd. He saw no reason to change to atf . He nicely reminded me what I use to tell him,use it or loose it . Body ,mind and valves ! I had 7 years small repairs on this Camelot and 3 on our Windsor before my wife found this website. What a goldmine! Thanks to all .

Ben don’t tell me there’s another box I haven’t found ! I think I’m alright cause the slide ran fine going out but half speed out in the retract mode . My valves have knobs on them , I assume for manual reverse in case of failure? Thanks Tommy and Cheri  08 Camelot 

[96 EVO]

3 minutes ago, TommyL said:

 

Ben don’t tell me there’s another box I haven’t found ! I think I’m alright cause the slide ran fine going out but half speed out in the retract mode . My valves have knobs on them , I assume for manual reverse in case of failure? Thanks Tommy and Cheri  08 Camelot 

Heavily taped into the harness, about 8" from where they separate to the solenoid plugs.

[Tom Cherry]

1 hour ago, TommyL said:

Tom C. Talk to Parker hyd. Man ,we call him our second son ,2O years in hyd. He saw no reason to change to atf . He nicely reminded me what I use to tell him,use it or loose it . Body ,mind and valves ! I had 7 years small repairs on this Camelot and 3 on our Windsor before my wife found this website. What a goldmine! Thanks to all .

Ben don’t tell me there’s another box I haven’t found ! I think I’m alright cause the slide ran fine going out but half speed out in the retract mode . My valves have knobs on them , I assume for manual reverse in case of failure? Thanks Tommy and Cheri  08 Camelot 

I don’t have your prints.  Mine might work…..  the way the control works is there is harness with a diode arrangement from the control switches.  There is no standalone controller or relay box like the rear slides have.  The harness plugs directly into the valves.  I can’t recall the number of plugs, but that is on the prints.

Now that is for my Lippert system.  Read your manual.  It describes the valves and functions.  If you have a single solenoid like the pictures above, there is a single solenoid that energizes the motor when the button is pushed.  The motor only runs in one direction and the valves do the reversing..  Thus, to manually operate, you spin the motor in one direction and open the correct valve.  If you had a reversing motor, the solenoid would have 4 wires and not 2.

[TommyL]

Tom C . Our slide motor is considered a Lippert ,made by Parker.(front hyd. Slides) Manual says to operate manually insert 1/4 drive end of shaft open or close valve, spin motor opposite direction. First ours doesn’t have a place for 1/4  drive . Just a 1/2 nut . Second, it doesn’t sound right to turn the pump backwards. This is a one way pump,clockwise. Since you’re pump use to be like ours you might remember if the manual is correct.

Thanks Tommy 

08 Camelot tag

[96 EVO]

Tommy, the manuals for these year's are practically not worth the paper they are written on!

I'm qualified to say that, cause I spent most of my life making paper!

Edited March 28, 2023 by 96 EVO

[Tom Cherry]

15 hours ago, TommyL said:

Tom C . Our slide motor is considered a Lippert ,made by Parker.(front hyd. Slides) Manual says to operate manually insert 1/4 drive end of shaft open or close valve, spin motor opposite direction. First ours doesn’t have a place for 1/4  drive . Just a 1/2 nut . Second, it doesn’t sound right to turn the pump backwards. This is a one way pump,clockwise. Since you’re pump use to be like ours you might remember if the manual is correct.

Thanks Tommy 

08 Camelot tag

OK.  FIRST, the 09 manual has the same basic verbiage as yours.  

Reality…. Whatever hex nut is on the shaft, find, if you can, a 1/4” (recess or drive) HEX socket.  I don’t trust the 12 point.  Next up.  CCW is the direction.  I used a corded drill.  Forget the instructions that MIGHT SAY 1/2 turn on valve…I went out in increments and 1 1/2-3/4 works.  I had to play with the valves.  I wanted mine retracted, so I just kept playing.

Good luck.  My paper manual, I think, is different from the digital 08 & 09….or maybe I downloaded the lippert instructions.  Mine, with air leveling had a different looking valve pack. Read my thread.  I think I put in some photos.

Good luck

[Happycarz]

Lippert motor harness for 08 & 09 Camelot, Contessa, & Scepter