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2002 Monaco Signature ABS Light


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Just had new rotors and pads installed but now the ABS dash light is lit and won't go out and cruise control doesn't work (to be honest, the cruise control was hit or miss to begin with).  The shop that did the brake job didn't have the software to read the code so I went to another who scanned and got the result "No Active Faults" and "No Inactive Faults".  Ohmed all the speed sensors and they test out fine.  The shop that scanned the computer claimed that there is no need for chassis-specific (Roadmaster) software because the braking system is its own software.  I cannot find anywhere if this is true or not and I hate taking the expert's word for it.  Anyone else have this problem and if so, what was the fix?  Thanx in advance!

Edited by Converterjoe
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Do you have a push button for ABS blink code under the dash in front of left knee where the diagnostic connector are? I had this happen after replacing the rotor and simply needed to push the wheel sensor closer to the tone ring but the blink readout should tell you which wheel or what problem you have. Even reset the light.

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Yep - I discovered the blink code addendum right after I posted this and immediately called the mechanic.  He tried this but couldn't find anywhere to tell him what the code was telling him.  The fault must still be present because that doesn't turn off the ABS lamp.  Do you know where I can find an explanation of the blink codes?

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Now I'm really confused!  I went to the coach to do the blink because I wanted to know what the code was before I tried to find a decipher key.  My addendum says the test button is on a Systems Diagnostic Center left of the steering column below the dash.  There's nothing over there except a bunch of wires and the 9-pin ECM port.  Does anyone have any idea where Monaco may have moved the test button to?

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If the cruise control doesn't work and the ABS system has a  to be determined fault, the brake switch is where those two systems come together and it's a common problem.  Try lifting Up the pedal with your toe to see if the cruise will engage.  Sometimes the stop lamps will also be on, if it's a single switch.  But typically the stop lights are a second switch on the same pedal.

You will need to get the ABS code.  The scan tool must be compatible with the ABS system that is installed.  When you say 9 pin port...is this a diesel?  Then the scan tool needs to support diesel CAN protocol. Typically J1939.    Who is the manufacturer of the ABS system?

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I have seen a coach where the ABS button was in the electrical/ fuse bay, FRB, beside the gen slide switch... sounds weird since the lamp is in the dash.

Once you find the button, assuming you have Meritor/Rockwell system, here is a basic cheat sheet

IMG_3023.PNG

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I believe it's a Meritor system and yes, it's a diesel.  I'll take the coach for a ride later to see if lifting the foot pedal is the answer.  I had that issue on a Tahoe once but it didn't impact the ABS, only the cruise, but at this point I'm willing to try anything!  

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You'll have to clear the ABS codes first. Cruise control not working may be a symptom, not a cause of ABS trouble. Since you had the rotors just replaced, the wheel sensor gap would be the first thing to look at, for me anyway.. They can be pushed in from under the bus without removing the wheel and hub. They may have moved back when the hub was being installed and was still wiggly until the bearings are set. The code should tell you which one, just need to find the button... Then test drive.

 

Here is what my button looks like, like a metal ball thingy

IMG_3025.JPG

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😂 "Little ball thingy" is a perfect description!  I looked right at it and never thought it to be a button because it was right next to a bolt that looked almost the same (I sent my wife under there and she spotted it right away).  I went through the prescribed sequence and after flashing different codes for a while the ABS light went out and stayed out.  Now to drive it and make sure it doesn't come back on.

Thanks all for the help!  I'll update once I've had a chance to test drive....probably tomorrow.

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15 hours ago, Converterjoe said:

😂 "Little ball thingy" is a perfect description!  I looked right at it and never thought it to be a button because it was right next to a bolt that looked almost the same (I sent my wife under there and she spotted it right away).  I went through the prescribed sequence and after flashing different codes for a while the ABS light went out and stayed out.  Now to drive it and make sure it doesn't come back on.

Thanks all for the help!  I'll update once I've had a chance to test drive....probably tomorrow.

Many years ago I learned the lesson that if you work on something and then a problem appears chances are that it was caused by working on the item. In your case when they did the brake job they either caused a problem with the tone ring sensor or the sensor distance from the tone ring changed. You have now reset the ABS brake fault but as soon as the vehicle starts to roll the ABS system will check for a signal from all the wheel tone rings. If one or more of the tone rings has a weak or intermittent signal the error will return.

 

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On our 2005 SIgnature I started getting an ABS code for the drivers drive axle. The issue was that the wire for the sensor was wiretied too tight and it prevented the sensor from maintaining the correct distance from the tone wheel on the rotor.

i was able to pull some slack through and it was fixed.

Paul

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Guest Tim503

I'm sure this will not be appreciated but have you considered taking the bulb out and not using the ABS system? I would be more concerned with the cruise control than the ABS.  I'm not sure if you ever noticed it engaging but even if you had would you prefer to have your coach keep rolling instead of locking up the wheels to come to a stop? I would be interested to know has these systems actually saved destruction and lives or did they contribute to a unknown operation of the brakes. They say don't pump brakes with an ABS and I do drive like that to keep them from over heating but I also don't get anywhere near that type of a situation where ABS would be needed. Then, do we know when it came on and what it did to keep us out of danger? Just a thought.

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17 hours ago, Tim503 said:

I'm sure this will not be appreciated but have you considered taking the bulb out and not using the ABS system? I would be more concerned with the cruise control than the ABS.  I'm not sure if you ever noticed it engaging but even if you had would you prefer to have your coach keep rolling instead of locking up the wheels to come to a stop? I would be interested to know has these systems actually saved destruction and lives or did they contribute to a unknown operation of the brakes. They say don't pump brakes with an ABS and I do drive like that to keep them from over heating but I also don't get anywhere near that type of a situation where ABS would be needed. Then, do we know when it came on and what it did to keep us out of danger? Just a thought.

ABS can certainly help to maintain control in an emergency stop.  It also contributes to maximizing braking at each wheel, while preventing one or more from locking up.

Your shortest stopping distance is achieved when all wheels are braked to the threshold of traction.  Locking a wheel will drastically decrease braking effect, as once the tire loses traction it isn't doing as much to slow the vehicle.   The only exception to this is in deep snow, where piling up snow ahead of the tires will stop you quicker, though you still cannot steer when your tires are skidding.

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Yes ABS helps most all drivers stop more effectively than without ABS.  Especially an RV where the driver isn't as keyed into what the wheels are doing.  Most all RV drivers haven't been in an emergency stop.   So haven't felt the max traction braking points.  ABS makes it easy...if you need to stop NOW, mash the pedal and hold it.

Edited by DavidL
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Disabling the ABS would be my last possible option.  The system went through it's checks, extinguished the light, and now blinks 1-1 like it should when there are no faults to correct.  Still haven't had the time to take 'er out for a ride to make sure the light doesn't come back on but will update when I do.  Thanks for the feedback everyone!  This board is a great resource thanks to y'all!

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Tim503,

From your other post, it seems like the mods flagged your "remove the ABS bulb" suggestion.

What you might consider is to ask "how does an ABS system work and why should I care?" in a new thread, instead of making a safety related suggestion when you are unfamiliar with the topic.

 

But for this thread, never alter the ABS system (or any other safety related system) unless you are smarter than the full time engineer system specialists that developed those systems (that doesn't leave too many folks left).

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Took the coach for a ride yesterday and unfortunately, the ABS light came back on.  Did the blink test and it flashes 16 times, short pause, then 5 times.  Then it blinks different sequences and after about 3 or 4 different ones the light will go out until you take off again.  After the last stop before heading home I performed another blink test.  Lo and behold, different series of blinks this time and the ABS light stayed off but the ATC light would not extinguish!  Seems that no one in this town knows anything about what's going on!  The brake job alone was over $3000 and they assure me that they've checked all the wires and sensor positions.  Now I don't know if I can trust the coach for a trip!  Any suggestions would be helpful.

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You need to get a good scan tool at a minimum.

If there is an ABS code, then something is wrong.

any good automotive technician with ABS background should be able to resolve it with the right scan tool.

The DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) should point you right to the portion of the ABS system that is suspect.  Not necessarily the component but the subsystem (component plus wiring).

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There should be no 16 blink sequence, are you sure there wasn't a pause? Anyway, try the diagnostic mode this time which starts after 1s push on the button. It should start repeating active codes, there may be mulltiple so you need to take a good note. There is 1.5s pause between 1st and second digit and 4s pause between codes. Meaning of the codes is in the cheat above.

The 3s push is to read and clear the codes but if the problem is still present, it will come back after you get moving again.

Honestly, a brake job should not cause anything else than changing a gap between sensor and tone ring which would be indicated by 3 blinks plus an other digit. You mentioned that the sensors were ohmed so they should not be cut.

Edited by Ivan K
Added a note...
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Ivan K - I wasn't aware that there were other modes to enter by pushing the button more than once.  Three local shops have all plugged scanners in.  One did not have the correct software, the others did but the scan tool reported "No Active Faults".  Looks like I've got me a gremlin!

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Happy to report that this issue is now RESOLVED!  Once I found that I had a Gen 4/5 Bendix system I was able to find the key to the blink codes and discovered that the problem was the right rear speed sensor position.  Went back to the shop that did the brake job and the owner was insistent that they had checked that but agreed to check again and discovered that was indeed the problem.  Pushed the sensor into position and went for a drive.  A block down the road the light went out and has not returned.  I really appreciate everyone's help here!

If any of you ever have this problem this data sheet is invaluable:

 

Gen 4:5BendixABS Data.pdf

Edited by Converterjoe
Wanted to add document
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