Coach J Posted June 4, 2023 Share Posted June 4, 2023 It’s me again…..now I have absolutely nothing on the thermostat. It was running and I was on top of the coach cleaning some of the dirt and trash from under the lord trying to clean the coils some hoping that would help the front AC. First it lost the back AC from the thermostat then after trying to reset it and getting an EE signal now the thermostat is completely blank. any help would be great as usual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted June 4, 2023 Share Posted June 4, 2023 From the basics. First, the thermostats get their 12 VDC power from each of the AC units. There is a control module in each one. The 13.5K have the control module in the plenum (under the filter grill). The 15K units have the control module under the cover of the AC....you have to pull the cover of. The control modules have the DIP switches on them. These are the wires to the module. And the Module, I THINK plugs into the rooftop unit. Been a while. AC power (piece of Romex with Black, White and Bare Ground. 12 VDC power. Open the print attached. Go to Page 16. Red is POSITIVE. Black is GROUND. You NEED to have 12 VDC on them. That is the pigtail or plug marked as P6. A plug in phone cable. This will be for any remote sensor that is being used. NO REMOTE SENSOR....no phone line. That is P6 TWO WIRES....The INFAMOUS BLUE wires. These are the wires going TO the furnace. They have NOTHING to do with your issues....but if they are NOT hooked up....you do NOT have any heat... There are also TWO phone lines attached. They don't care which one. P1 and P2. One brings the signal up and the other takes it out. The Thermostat is on a phone line from the wall (or wherever) to the front unit. It plugs into a connector. The other side of the connector goes up or into the control module (P1 or P2 phone cable). The OTHER phone connector sends the signal back down. When it gets into the plenum, it connects to a phone line that runs to the rear. In the rear the phone line plugs into a connector and it goes up. There is a phone line coming down. It just dangles there as there is nothing else to send a signal to. ALL the inline connectors and the phone plugs (Male ends) of the phone lines are a constant problem. They CAN (and DO) vibrate loose as well as corrode or have a bad connection. TYPICALLY, the connections are LOST in the dangling connectors....as they swing and vibrate. BUT, you can have a BAC connection on the control module. NOT knowing what you moved around or did...you COULD have inadvertently pulled or tugged on one of the two shore phone cables. They MUST be seated and making connection inside the control module....otherwise...NO JOY. 90% (and I have helped at least 50 folks) of the time....the issue is inside....as the cables are not seated or corroded. SOMETMES the RJ-11 (Male Ends) get messed up and folks use a phone crimping tool and install a new male end. Simple.... The USUSAL fix.... FROM THE INSIDE. Take apart one of the phone connections. CLEAN (alcohol and a Q-tip or a paper towel and a toothpick or an old tooth brush) the male ends. Clean the female contacts inside the connector. DO ONE AT A TIME. It HELPS to plug and unplug the cables a few (3 or 4) times and press firmly so there is a good connection. It is FUTILE to do ONE...and quit. You have THREE to do....2 in the front and 1 in the rear. NOW....turn OFF the Thermostat. Hold in the Zone and Mode Button. Then turn the thermostat ON. FF (not EE) is what you should get. Then you should have all zones. If you only have Zone 1....then you know there is a problem with the cable going to the rear or in the rear. The thermostat has GOT to read each control module. IN THEORY....only ONE of the Control Modules needs voltage. BUT, since the connections can drop out, Monaco ran 12 VDC to each control module. SO, that unit, if the phone line was broken, would actually send Voltage to the OTHER control Module as well as the Thermostat. There is NO POWER wire going to the Thermostat. The ONLY power comes from the phone cord. 1 pair has voltage and the other pair runs the systems. If that doesn't work....THEN....next step. Check EACH control Module for voltage. Open the print below. Go to Page 16. IF you don't have 12 VDC, then there is a blown fuse in the House Distribution box. See your manual. Monaco does NOT always tell you WHICH fuse is for the Thermostat. Mine says "Satellite". Rarely do we see an issue in the control module. These are tough suckers. IF you think that you might have "messed around", then you MIGHT want to go back up and pull the shroud or cover. THEN look at the last page and unplug every connector (wires and phone) and reseat them so they are making contact. That is about it. When you run through the above....let us know....unless something was broken.....it is a connection issue. NOW...in THEORY....you can actually find the two lines running UP in the front unit. If you unplug them....let them dangle. THEN plug in the other TWO phone lines. That will bypass the FRONT AC and the thermostat will be connected directly to the REAR. DO the reset. Then you will only see Zone 2....and it should be OK. Remember....anytime you disconnect any of the phone lines or make any programming changes (the DIP switches) or SUCH...you have to do the RESET OR REBOOT. The Thermostat "reads" what is downstream and then "KNOWS" what to do. BUT, if there is a break or an open phone connection or a crappy one....it gets mad and will not work or only works intermittently... Good Luck... 630516 Penquin Install manual.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coach J Posted June 4, 2023 Author Share Posted June 4, 2023 37 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said: From the basics. First, the thermostats get their 12 VDC power from each of the AC units. There is a control module in each one. The 13.5K have the control module in the plenum (under the filter grill). The 15K units have the control module under the cover of the AC....you have to pull the cover of. The control modules have the DIP switches on them. These are the wires to the module. And the Module, I THINK plugs into the rooftop unit. Been a while. AC power (piece of Romex with Black, White and Bare Ground. 12 VDC power. Open the print attached. Go to Page 16. Red is POSITIVE. Black is GROUND. You NEED to have 12 VDC on them. That is the pigtail or plug marked as P6. A plug in phone cable. This will be for any remote sensor that is being used. NO REMOTE SENSOR....no phone line. That is P6 TWO WIRES....The INFAMOUS BLUE wires. These are the wires going TO the furnace. They have NOTHING to do with your issues....but if they are NOT hooked up....you do NOT have any heat... There are also TWO phone lines attached. They don't care which one. P1 and P2. One brings the signal up and the other takes it out. The Thermostat is on a phone line from the wall (or wherever) to the front unit. It plugs into a connector. The other side of the connector goes up or into the control module (P1 or P2 phone cable). The OTHER phone connector sends the signal back down. When it gets into the plenum, it connects to a phone line that runs to the rear. In the rear the phone line plugs into a connector and it goes up. There is a phone line coming down. It just dangles there as there is nothing else to send a signal to. ALL the inline connectors and the phone plugs (Male ends) of the phone lines are a constant problem. They CAN (and DO) vibrate loose as well as corrode or have a bad connection. TYPICALLY, the connections are LOST in the dangling connectors....as they swing and vibrate. BUT, you can have a BAC connection on the control module. NOT knowing what you moved around or did...you COULD have inadvertently pulled or tugged on one of the two shore phone cables. They MUST be seated and making connection inside the control module....otherwise...NO JOY. 90% (and I have helped at least 50 folks) of the time....the issue is inside....as the cables are not seated or corroded. SOMETMES the RJ-11 (Male Ends) get messed up and folks use a phone crimping tool and install a new male end. Simple.... The USUSAL fix.... FROM THE INSIDE. Take apart one of the phone connections. CLEAN (alcohol and a Q-tip or a paper towel and a toothpick or an old tooth brush) the male ends. Clean the female contacts inside the connector. DO ONE AT A TIME. It HELPS to plug and unplug the cables a few (3 or 4) times and press firmly so there is a good connection. It is FUTILE to do ONE...and quit. You have THREE to do....2 in the front and 1 in the rear. NOW....turn OFF the Thermostat. Hold in the Zone and Mode Button. Then turn the thermostat ON. FF (not EE) is what you should get. Then you should have all zones. If you only have Zone 1....then you know there is a problem with the cable going to the rear or in the rear. The thermostat has GOT to read each control module. IN THEORY....only ONE of the Control Modules needs voltage. BUT, since the connections can drop out, Monaco ran 12 VDC to each control module. SO, that unit, if the phone line was broken, would actually send Voltage to the OTHER control Module as well as the Thermostat. There is NO POWER wire going to the Thermostat. The ONLY power comes from the phone cord. 1 pair has voltage and the other pair runs the systems. If that doesn't work....THEN....next step. Check EACH control Module for voltage. Open the print below. Go to Page 16. IF you don't have 12 VDC, then there is a blown fuse in the House Distribution box. See your manual. Monaco does NOT always tell you WHICH fuse is for the Thermostat. Mine says "Satellite". Rarely do we see an issue in the control module. These are tough suckers. IF you think that you might have "messed around", then you MIGHT want to go back up and pull the shroud or cover. THEN look at the last page and unplug every connector (wires and phone) and reseat them so they are making contact. That is about it. When you run through the above....let us know....unless something was broken.....it is a connection issue. NOW...in THEORY....you can actually find the two lines running UP in the front unit. If you unplug them....let them dangle. THEN plug in the other TWO phone lines. That will bypass the FRONT AC and the thermostat will be connected directly to the REAR. DO the reset. Then you will only see Zone 2....and it should be OK. Remember....anytime you disconnect any of the phone lines or make any programming changes (the DIP switches) or SUCH...you have to do the RESET OR REBOOT. The Thermostat "reads" what is downstream and then "KNOWS" what to do. BUT, if there is a break or an open phone connection or a crappy one....it gets mad and will not work or only works intermittently... Good Luck... 630516 Penquin Install manual.pdf 421.91 kB · 0 downloads Ok I have 1 zone now. Zone 2 is gone but at least there is power to the thermostat and zone 1 is working. Not sure why I lost zone 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coach J Posted June 4, 2023 Author Share Posted June 4, 2023 55 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said: From the basics. First, the thermostats get their 12 VDC power from each of the AC units. There is a control module in each one. The 13.5K have the control module in the plenum (under the filter grill). The 15K units have the control module under the cover of the AC....you have to pull the cover of. The control modules have the DIP switches on them. These are the wires to the module. And the Module, I THINK plugs into the rooftop unit. Been a while. AC power (piece of Romex with Black, White and Bare Ground. 12 VDC power. Open the print attached. Go to Page 16. Red is POSITIVE. Black is GROUND. You NEED to have 12 VDC on them. That is the pigtail or plug marked as P6. A plug in phone cable. This will be for any remote sensor that is being used. NO REMOTE SENSOR....no phone line. That is P6 TWO WIRES....The INFAMOUS BLUE wires. These are the wires going TO the furnace. They have NOTHING to do with your issues....but if they are NOT hooked up....you do NOT have any heat... There are also TWO phone lines attached. They don't care which one. P1 and P2. One brings the signal up and the other takes it out. The Thermostat is on a phone line from the wall (or wherever) to the front unit. It plugs into a connector. The other side of the connector goes up or into the control module (P1 or P2 phone cable). The OTHER phone connector sends the signal back down. When it gets into the plenum, it connects to a phone line that runs to the rear. In the rear the phone line plugs into a connector and it goes up. There is a phone line coming down. It just dangles there as there is nothing else to send a signal to. ALL the inline connectors and the phone plugs (Male ends) of the phone lines are a constant problem. They CAN (and DO) vibrate loose as well as corrode or have a bad connection. TYPICALLY, the connections are LOST in the dangling connectors....as they swing and vibrate. BUT, you can have a BAC connection on the control module. NOT knowing what you moved around or did...you COULD have inadvertently pulled or tugged on one of the two shore phone cables. They MUST be seated and making connection inside the control module....otherwise...NO JOY. 90% (and I have helped at least 50 folks) of the time....the issue is inside....as the cables are not seated or corroded. SOMETMES the RJ-11 (Male Ends) get messed up and folks use a phone crimping tool and install a new male end. Simple.... The USUSAL fix.... FROM THE INSIDE. Take apart one of the phone connections. CLEAN (alcohol and a Q-tip or a paper towel and a toothpick or an old tooth brush) the male ends. Clean the female contacts inside the connector. DO ONE AT A TIME. It HELPS to plug and unplug the cables a few (3 or 4) times and press firmly so there is a good connection. It is FUTILE to do ONE...and quit. You have THREE to do....2 in the front and 1 in the rear. NOW....turn OFF the Thermostat. Hold in the Zone and Mode Button. Then turn the thermostat ON. FF (not EE) is what you should get. Then you should have all zones. If you only have Zone 1....then you know there is a problem with the cable going to the rear or in the rear. The thermostat has GOT to read each control module. IN THEORY....only ONE of the Control Modules needs voltage. BUT, since the connections can drop out, Monaco ran 12 VDC to each control module. SO, that unit, if the phone line was broken, would actually send Voltage to the OTHER control Module as well as the Thermostat. There is NO POWER wire going to the Thermostat. The ONLY power comes from the phone cord. 1 pair has voltage and the other pair runs the systems. If that doesn't work....THEN....next step. Check EACH control Module for voltage. Open the print below. Go to Page 16. IF you don't have 12 VDC, then there is a blown fuse in the House Distribution box. See your manual. Monaco does NOT always tell you WHICH fuse is for the Thermostat. Mine says "Satellite". Rarely do we see an issue in the control module. These are tough suckers. IF you think that you might have "messed around", then you MIGHT want to go back up and pull the shroud or cover. THEN look at the last page and unplug every connector (wires and phone) and reseat them so they are making contact. That is about it. When you run through the above....let us know....unless something was broken.....it is a connection issue. NOW...in THEORY....you can actually find the two lines running UP in the front unit. If you unplug them....let them dangle. THEN plug in the other TWO phone lines. That will bypass the FRONT AC and the thermostat will be connected directly to the REAR. DO the reset. Then you will only see Zone 2....and it should be OK. Remember....anytime you disconnect any of the phone lines or make any programming changes (the DIP switches) or SUCH...you have to do the RESET OR REBOOT. The Thermostat "reads" what is downstream and then "KNOWS" what to do. BUT, if there is a break or an open phone connection or a crappy one....it gets mad and will not work or only works intermittently... Good Luck... 630516 Penquin Install manual.pdf 421.91 kB · 0 downloads Now no zone 1 or 2 just EE. Lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted June 4, 2023 Share Posted June 4, 2023 11 minutes ago, Coach J said: Now no zone 1 or 2 just EE. Lol https://www.airforums.com/forums/f427/dometic-comfort-control-center-codes-79282.html#:~:text=EE is a code for,and try the re-set. You ain't got no communication. I assumed you knew that. You can't get it to RESET...as the Thermostat has NOTHING to talk to. SO....unless you think you have a thermostat issue...which I don't and there is NOT much good that come come from taking apart a working (it was) thermostat when the issue is COMMUNICATIONS. The troubleshooting is what I went over. Something happened, most LIKELY, when you were cleaning....now you have to figure out what got "undone" and fix it. The steps are what folks really ought to do every few years. We USUALLY have these issues when the summer season starts and folks say... OMG...I have NO AC... OR (my personal one)....it was working FINE when we left and worked great until I shut off the engine at the CG office...then it was DEAD when I plugged in and started it up. My DW and GD were most distraught as it was in the open sun and 95 deg in humid Charleston SC. Took about 10 minutes to clean all the connectors and do the reset. You have NO communication with the FRONT Control Module. SO, fix it. IF you can't, then do like I suggested and bypass the front and then work on the rear.... Let us know.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coach J Posted June 4, 2023 Author Share Posted June 4, 2023 7 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said: https://www.airforums.com/forums/f427/dometic-comfort-control-center-codes-79282.html#:~:text=EE is a code for,and try the re-set. You ain't got no communication. I assumed you knew that. You can't get it to RESET...as the Thermostat has NOTHING to talk to. SO....unless you think you have a thermostat issue...which I don't and there is NOT much good that come come from taking apart a working (it was) thermostat when the issue is COMMUNICATIONS. The troubleshooting is what I went over. Something happened, most LIKELY, when you were cleaning....now you have to figure out what got "undone" and fix it. The steps are what folks really ought to do every few years. We USUALLY have these issues when the summer season starts and folks say... OMG...I have NO AC... OR (my personal one)....it was working FINE when we left and worked great until I shut off the engine at the CG office...then it was DEAD when I plugged in and started it up. My DW and GD were most distraught as it was in the open sun and 95 deg in humid Charleston SC. Took about 10 minutes to clean all the connectors and do the reset. You have NO communication with the FRONT Control Module. SO, fix it. IF you can't, then do like I suggested and bypass the front and then work on the rear.... Let us know.... Yes sir. Now have some 1 back and no zone 2. Obviously a communication error between AC 1 and AC 2. I have cleaned everything there is to clean. Still nothing after the reset. I will keep trying. on another note….is there any way to bypass the “communication lines” and install some way to not have to rely on these unreliable lines for the AC to function. I am assuming the answer is no but I thought you would be who to ask. My old gas burner Fleetwood didn’t work that way so I never had any AC issues. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vito.a Posted June 5, 2023 Share Posted June 5, 2023 Buy a can of Hosa Deoxit: Amazon.com: DeoxIT D5S-6 Spray, More Than A Contact Cleaner, 142g, Integrated Straw, Pack of 1 : Automotive Clean ALL of the RJ11 plugs (phone wire) and receptacles. There will be RJ11 couplers on the inside of the coach under the A/C vent cover. Replace them. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr4Film Posted June 5, 2023 Share Posted June 5, 2023 I purchased a cable tester many years ago when I was having issues with the Data cables, connectors and couplers. That tester saved me hours of time tracking down issues. This is the one that I have from Amazon. https://tinyurl.com/45ket44r I have used it for Data cables, telephone cables, Ethernet cables and coaxial cables. Saved me hours of time tracking down problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hex_nut Posted June 5, 2023 Share Posted June 5, 2023 Be careful with solvents on phone cable connectors. I once grabbed the wrong can and sprayed an RJ11 connector with carb cleaner. The plastic connector fractured, shattered and fell apart in my hand. I had to go find a new connector and crimper to rebuild the cable end. Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted June 5, 2023 Share Posted June 5, 2023 16 hours ago, vito.a said: Buy a can of Hosa Deoxit: Amazon.com: DeoxIT D5S-6 Spray, More Than A Contact Cleaner, 142g, Integrated Straw, Pack of 1 : Automotive Clean ALL of the RJ11 plugs (phone wire) and receptacles. There will be RJ11 couplers on the inside of the coach under the A/C vent cover. Replace them. Good luck! MEGA WARNING. Alcohol and Q-Tips. IF you MUST, ELECTRONIC CLEANER. I, TOO, can tell you “Electrical Cleaner”, especially the older or “THIS STUFF WORKS” will cause untold issues. I messed up 3 CAT 5 terminals… PITA to fix. These CAT plugs were about the same age as the MH. I read a bunch of the Amazon “low ratings”. Rubber dissolved and some issues with plastics. MAY be OK, but I’d use an appropriate Electronics cleaner rather than a cleans all, does all Or maybe melts all? Just my inflated 2 cents….and a lot of years of experience….and mistakes… I peesonally think this is overblown….the old “Did YOU break it?” Flow Chart meme is appropriate. YES….clean the connections inside. I DOUBT that will fix it. Odds are a phone cable was “pulled”. The place to look and do the RESEAT the plugs is at the control module… Then…if all else fails, start cable testing…but 90% of connections, are intermittent and there are some EE’s….but most are corrected after doing the downstairs work. But if some poking around was done up top….that is the most logical. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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